wamcneil

You've probably got an access door of some kind between the storage bay next to the right-side of the aquahot. So climb into that adjacent storage bay and have a look. Cheers, Walter

Really need to post pictures of your configuration in order to get meaningful feedback. Unless you're willing to rip it all out and fabricate all new cabinetry, your choices will mostly be dictated by your existing cabinetry. Cheers, Walter

I used the plenum itself as a baffle, if that makes sense. I cut some blocks of acoustic foam and wedged them in on either side of the duct running through the intake plenum in the forward section directly under the blower intake. So the air goes up in the rear part of the plenum, turns forward above the foam blocks and then up into the blower intake. Then I blocked off the rear half of the filter like you did with the piece of rug. So the air enters the plenum through the front half of the filter grate, turns to the rear, goes up into the plenum and then back forward to the blower intake. That cut down on the blower noise, to the point where it's more noticeable from the supply duct. Cheers, Walter

I'm not sure specifically what you're looking for. Do you need help identifying what each of the gen start wires do? Or how to attach them to your inverter? I don't know anything about a gopower inverter, but it would need to have a feature for AGS with specific terminals for generator start connections. If it doesn't have specific terminals for AGS there's nothing to connect and you'll need a stand-alone AGS like Ivan said. Here's an annotated picture of my original Trace wiring showing what each of the wires are and how they connected to the AGS terminals on the old Trace inverter.

Look at page 131 of the wiring diagrams 'Low Voltage - High Current'. 12v positive goes from the battery, through the battery switch and then back to the high current box on the right in the engine compartment. The first connection is to the large battery isolator. If you've got 12v on the house terminal of the battery isolator you should be able to verify 12v all the way through that box. You should have two large solenoids on the lower right side of the box that are for house loads (via salesman switch), and should be able to verify 12v on the output of those two solenoids. Unless the battery negative terminal is disconnected from the chassis... I'm still thinking you might have missed the ground wire from the inverter to the chassis ground when you installed the inverter. If that ground wire was missed, then ground is disconnected for all your house loads. The inverter would still work, but that ground wire is the only path for house loads to get to the battery negative terminal. Having the house ground disconnected would look a whole like not having 12v to the house. And if that ground is disconnected you won't have 12v between the house battery positive terminal and the chassis.

This thread describes the 80a klixon circuit breaker located in the battery compartment Most of the house loads don't go through that breaker. The normal house loads all go through the high current run bay on the right side of the engine compartment.

That’s a Klixon self-resetting circuit breaker. Was it inside the battery compartment? With one side connected to batteries (bypassing the battery switch)? If so it should be the breaker that feeds a Domestic Hot fuse panel in the front electric bay. I hope you find the problem!

Agreed. But in my system, all of the house 12v loads run through the rv2012 negative terminal and a ground terminal on the frame. This was not intuitive to me... If that ground terminal was missed it might explain why there's no 12v house power right after OP was messing with the inverter cables....

Did you put back the battery cables exactly like they were originally attached when you replaced the inverter? As I recall there’s a chassis ground on the inverter that doesn’t seem like it would be needed, but all the dc loads go through that ground strap so that the inverter’s internal shunt can read battery current. Cheers Walter

Ah. That link in the 2nd post has them for $214 per pair...

EEK! Very nice... But at $400 they really need to give me a lot of Wow, WOW, WOWWW!!

I'd give you my settings... but 1) any assumption that I know what I'm doing is shaky at best, 2) there's no way I could remember what all I changed and 3) you wouldn't like my lithium settings anyway!

Yeah, I might need to put a voltmeter on it and just see what it's doing... Since the tiny current of a relay was enough to fool the ECM, I was assuming it held a small voltage on the circuit and used that to determine if the pump was good. Kind of like my car can sense when a bulb is bad, even when the lights are off. If the harness doesn't work out as-is I could just cut off the ECM plug and use to make a dummy load.

Not real concerned about the ECM... I'm pretty sure it's just a standard bosch-type automotive relay. Same type that folks use in FASS installs as a dummy load to fool the ECM into thinking the factory lift pump is still present.

Ok, so I've been talking to airdog support. They have a cummins harness that looks like it may save me a bunch of work. It's got a plug to go in place of the factory lift pump, but their tech support didn't know if it would run the pump full-time. As I understand it, the ECM runs the lift pump for 30 sec at startup, right? And then it shuts down the pump. But it apparently holds a voltage on the pump and will throw an error code if the pump isn't detected. So folks install a 'dummy' relay to fool the ECM into thinking the pump is present. Does anybody know if that pump-check diagnostic signal is sufficient to keep the relay engaged? If so, it sounds like this harness would keep the pump running all the time by virtue of whatever diagnostic voltage is held on the lift pump. I guess if that doesn't work out I could modify the harness to trigger from a different ignition source. Here's the diagram:

Thanks all. I'm certainly not opposed to the fass/airdog systems. But I've already got a pretty robust filtration system and I just don't think I need a new one. If this were a modded pickup with weak factory filtration, I think the combined lift pump & primary & secondary filtration system would be compelling. I think that cheap PPE pump I linked would work fine, but diesel forum folks complain about frequent failures and I don't think I want to take a chance on it... So now I'm thinking about Airdog's Universal Raptor 100 gph pump for $317. Thanks Walter

Good point!

That'd need to be done with a FASS system also though, right? (Edit) Ah. That's nice. I didn't realize the kit would plug in place of the factory lift pump. Does the original lift pump need to be disconnected? Or just if the new pump is located in the back and installed between the primary and secondary pumps? I'm inclined to put mine up front at the tank and leave everything alone in the back by the engine.

Ok... Maybe a more cost effective pump might suffice? Like this: PPE Electric Fuel Lift Pump - GM Duramax, Diesel Engines | 113050000 | Thoroughbred Diesel

Ok, so I totally get that the CAPS pump operates under vacuum, and that's bad for it and can/does lead to a lot of expensive failures. As I understand it, the 'problem' is that the CAPS is working against a vacuum, so pushing fuel under positive pressure to the injection system should address the issue. And a lot of folks install a FASS or Airdog system for that reason. But I'm not convinced that I have a big problem with entrained air in the fuel. And my filters don't get clogged a lot, so I'm not real motivated to go out and buy a fuel polishing system. Why not solve the CAPS problem with a pressure-regulated pump at the tank, and otherwise leave my fuel system as-is? I've read a few write-ups of folks that have taken this route. Looks to me like a pump would be at least couple-hundred $$ less than an air separation system and somewhat easier to install. Is there something I'm missing? Thanks Walter

Within limits, adding freon really shouldn't change the pressure much. It's driven by boiling point of the refrigerant, not like adding air to your tires. Once you've got some minimum amount of refrigerant in the system, the pressures should pretty much plateau until you have too much refrigerant in the system. The low-side pressure rises while you're actively adding refrigerant because you're upsetting the equilibrium and adding more volume of refrigerant behind the compressor. The compressor sends high pressure gas through the condenser, from which it emerges as mostly liquid. That liquid accumulates in the reservoir (receiver/filter/dryer) and high pressure lines downstream as the liquid is waiting to be pulled from the bottom of the RFD and metered through the expansion valve. So until the RFD and lines downstream of the condenser are full of liquid, the pressures should stay mostly the same. Have you considered posting your issue on a refrigeration forum? In the past I had good results searching and asking the community at autoacforum.com (was formerly ackitsforum.com) Cheers, Walter

What kind of xantrex inverter do you have? Are you certain that coil on your pos cable is connected to the xantrex? Seems strange that they'd use an inductive loop where everybody else in the industry uses a shunt. Maybe it's something different from the way my 2003 was originally set up: trace/xantrex rv2012(?) with RC7 panel. It didn't have a current loop connected to it. It measured current with an internal shunt in the negative cable inside the inverter. Cheers, Walter

It's ok... I think he's just using the term 'amps' when he means 'amp-hours'. Here's a diagram showing the front run plate terminals feeding the front fuse panels

I think you're right. I've got that same arrangement, but I do NOT have the lower jumper wire. The top terminals connected by the bar are chassis and feed the generator and hydraulic pumps. The lower terminals I believe are Domestic Hot and switched domestic. And if so, those should NOT be jumpered together. One is always hot and the other comes through a salesman relay. See attached wiring diagram. You should be able to trace wires coming from the terminals to the fuse panels that they feed.

On my 03 dynasty, that circuit breaker connected straight to the battery feeds the ‘domestic hot’ fuse block in the front electrical bay. It’s the bank of fuses to your right as you look into the electrical bay. With the halogen lights eliminated, I don’t think the house loads would ever exceed 50a, so the two solenoids are way overkill. A solid state relay like Rocketman suggested would be pretty slick... and anything bigger than the 65a model he suggested would be overkill. My original configuration involved one latching relay that cascaded to a continuous relay. After swapping out the 70-80 amps worth of halogen ceiling heaters, I was able to remove the continuous solenoid and put all the salesman-loads through the one KIB latching relay (rated at 60-65a I think). You've got house lights, water pump and a few other things, so there's really not much of a load on the salesman switch once the halogens are gone. Each of your continuous solenoids draws about 750ma , so that simple change would save at least 36amp-hours per day right there. Good quality DC clamp meters are kind of expensive, but a really great tool for figuring out where your current is going. Cheers, Walter