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Perpendicular

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  • FirstName
    Paul
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Windsor 40PDQ
  • Year
    2004

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  1. I installed a new Dometic unit a few months ago and yesterday I attempted to kick on the AH. Zone 2 and 3 came on without issue. Zone 1 where the new unit is does not show the AH, like zone 2 and 3 does so I presume I have a dipswitch set wrong. Does anyone know which one handles the AH option? I did do a factory reset of the unit and I thought I matched the control board from the old unit so before I climb back up on the ladder I came to ask here. Thanks in advance!
  2. Update and final post about my issues unless questions 🙂 Lets start form the beginning. I ordered and received the following part #'s Control Board - 3313107.107 Penguin II 641816C751C0 AC unit - non-heat pump, Hi Cap (15K) This to replace failing Duo-Therm 991760360 connected to a 5 button thermostat. It is setup to connect to a 10 button with it's original control board. The control board I bought is for my 5 button and controls heat pumps as well according to the dealer so they send along handwritten instructions saying to just not hook up the red wires. Sounds simple. The control board had detailed instructions on how to hook everything up - to include wiring the reversing valve - which I do not have. I learn those are only on units with a heat pump. Makes total sense to me _now_. So, the install took me quite a bit longer because I was not sure why my wires were different colors that what the detailed instructions offer. I had the unit up and ready to go but stopped and posted this thread in hopes of not harming any of the pure gold new AC unit. Gold to me anyway as my better half would not go anywhere without some cold in this heat 🙂 And finding one I could get was a challenge right now. Anyway, the install could not have been simpler. You swap out the ambient sensor that is on the outside then move wires from one board to the other installing them in the same location (I.E. Red to Red marked locations, Black to Black location, etc. There is an additional white (ground) wire on the original board that is extra so you simply unplug it from the large capacitor and put it away with the board for later use if you go to a 10 button. Cut and cap off the yellow wire as this is for medium speed - the 5 button doesn't do that. Then on to inside. When I removed the original unit there were two blue wires out of the 2 blue, 2 red and 2 yellow that were connected along with the phone cables. Leave the Red and Yellow disconnected like before, hook up the two blues and hook up the 120v in the electrical box. Put everything back together and power up the coach. Reset your thermostat (press and hold top button and bottom button at the same time while you turn on the switch until you see FF on the screen) and kick the new unit on. Notes: I replaced my drip pans and the new instructions say to double up on the foam so I did. Original unit was not that way so the new one is about an inch further away from the ceiling. I am telling you this because the air diverter you took off inside needs to be extended so it can close off that area and divert the air to the ducts. If you do not have any, buy the metal foil tape before you start so you can clean up any air leaks at the diverter, etc. Just cleaning up the area and resealing up gaps will help the efficiency. The new unit fan kicks on almost immediately after hitting the switch in comparison to my older units that waited minutes before kicking on. That was a nice change. The new unit appears to be quieter overall. I think this is partly due to the unit is no longer resting on the roof and now has extra foam between it and the surface. That and it was new 🙂 Go to Home Depot and rent their lift to get the old unit down and the new unit up. It was $85 for 24 hours and it makes the install so one person can do it alone without risks associated with sliding it on a ladder, etc. Take Pictures - of everything! Use your phone and take pictures of every step. Every movement of wire. This will make questions much easier to answer when putting things back together. I want to thank Chris and Dustin again - they were incredible and generous with their time and I will be eternally grateful to them both! Welcome to August heat, going to utilize the AC to the fullest next weekend! -Paul
  3. BINGO - it is not a heat pump, just a 15K AC. I thought about a HP but with the AquaHot I decided against it. But now I am even more lost. I am guessing then I do not do anything but move the wires over and ignore the directions on what they refer to the reversing valve, except the yellow I remove and cap off. Soooooo I am making too much of this if that is the case and over thinking it. Is it that simple?
  4. In my quest I have learned something. Does anyone see a reversing valve in this schematic? So maybe, just maybe, I am even further confused. If no Reversing Valve, can I skip that part of the install wiring configs?
  5. Hi John - Great info! I presume you have a 2nd unit and it works off the new controller? Enjoy the cold AC 🙂
  6. Hi Chris - First - thank you very much for taking the time on this and for offering assistance! I will send the number in a PM shortly. Have a great weekend! -Paul
  7. I would like the CCC2 - but I would still have an older unit in the bedroom that utilizes the 5 button.
  8. I am at a stopping point and need to stand back and figure out what I am missing. I am installing a Penguin II unit and a new control board to utilize my 5 button thermostat. New circuit board seems straightforward but it isn't to me right now. I am hoping I can get someone's experience from their install. It says I should connect one of the reversing wires (Purple or black) to the new circuit board. Does that mean I take it off of what looks like a starting capacitor and bypass it now? The wires from what looks like the reversing valve is violet, white and blue. It also states next to cut terminal from end of remaining reversing valve wire (I have 2 left white and blue) and strip 1/2" of insulation Next cut terminal from end of thick white wire and strip 1/2 insulation (where is this wire, from the reversing valve or from the start capacitor, or?). Next - connect thick black white wire and renaming violet or black wire. Where is this wire? So I don't have some of these wires, and I am still missing a white connector that was in the old unit. There are 2 small white wires with a white connector on the original unit that I cannot figure where they go on the new one. I am guessing i dont have the right paperwork but maybe I am over thinking it. Has anyone run across an of this and can share some advice? Thanks in advance.
  9. Has anyone seen any availability of the Penguin's yet? My front unit runs for 5 minutes and then shuts off for 5 minutes and then kicks back on again. In Texas, that isn't very comfortable unfortunately so I have been tasked with getting this done soon 😕 I would rather pay the normal price from a vendor and support their business if at all possible. How does it look compared to the low profile Penguin's? Did you have to add a thermostat, or modify anything to use your current setup? UPDATE - found a Penguin II semi local - dealer selling on eBay. $1300 shipped with control board to utilize my 5 button. Now I just have to plan the install.... 😕
  10. I may be in for 2-3. Thanks for doing this. -Paul 04 Windsor PDQ
  11. I am thinking I would like to put in a remote panel for my new spiffy SeeLevel system. I see online that you can get a remote panel withOUT the water pump switch (I already have one in the wet bay) for a shade over $200 and one WITH the pump switch for a little less than half the cost. Half. Does anyone know what the differences are between the two and if I can run the one with the switch without having any issues? Spider sense says - maybe? I am hoping someone else has seen and done this as well. -Paul
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