robertmrankin6612

OK guys, looking at this again, I'm thinking that this is a 2 speed fan option, not a variable fan speed like OEM (IF OEM is variable). It seems to me that using the pwm motor controller sets the minimum speed, but the thermo valve set the max speed. I was hoping the pwm motor controller would output variable voltage with a variable voltage input, but I don't think it does. Also, the controller cited above has a minimum input voltage of 7 volts. So even if the controller could output variable voltage with variable input voltage, it would only do so down to 7 volts input, and I think it takes zero volts to run the fan wide open. Maybe when the input voltage drops below the specified 7 volts the controller shuts down and the output voltage goes to zero anyway. Does my thinking sound correct? Thanks, Bob

AAAAHHHHhhhhhhhhhhh......got it Mark, Thanks so much for the detailed explanation!!! Now I can collect the stuff to make my test. I'll report back with the results. It will be awhile, as my FDC is working, but the conversion is now on my to-do list. IF it works as expected, I'm going to use my offshore boat procedure and leave the new part in service and keep the working old one as backup. cheers Bob

Hi Guys, Well my pursuit has stalled for a bit until I can figure out how to get the plug out of the valve body. I have tried both pulling and twisting the round plug, but it doesn't seem to want to move. I don't want to lean TOO HARD on it as it is still currently working and I don't want to bust something. Does this plug have a history of being stuck as well as a history of being corroded like Mark's? I'm feeling a little stupid here, does the plug pull out, or does it twist? Would you ever put a tool on it? Learning bob

Hi Mark, Thanks for the plugs info....I'm going to pursue this a bit and will report back when, and if, I learn anything. I get that the thermo switch would break the circuit and sent the fan to wide open, I'm kinda just trying to suss out how the ECM signal wouldn't fail to anything other than open. Bob

Bill R. wrote "The white paper uses the 12V hot wire as the control signal to the motor controller, but I did enough research and testing to convince myself, and to your point, that I could use the ECM voltage instead of the constant 12V. I have been running my coach this way for nearly 2 years, thousands of miles, through Colorado, over Monarch Pass, other difficult terrain, and I cannot see any distinguishable performance in in engine cooling versus the OEM setup." This question is directed to Bill R., and anyone else that would like to respond. I HOPE I am not jinxing myself with this post as the ISL in my 05 Dynasty has been happy for 87,000 miles, BUT, since the SD FDC is a known problem, I thought I'd ask the question. Is the thermal switch even necessary? Since it isn't used in my OEM installation, doesn't the ecm signal tell the fan when to go wide open anyway? Is the thermal switch redundant? It isn't in @happycarz OEM either. If I had access to the proper plug, for $20 I'd be inclined to unplug the SD controller and try the ecm to PCM motor speed controller. I don't want to unnecessarily to splice into my SD wiring, hence the need for the plug. IF it worked properly, it would be a CHEAP, EASY fix that can even be done on the road. Cheers Bob

I think that's the one. The plastic cased ones like your picture I'm told are solid state, and not repairable. The metal can ones are more old school analogue......

Hi Jim, I don't have one near me, but they are the standard ones that have been supeceded by the plasctic cover ones being currently sold.

Hi Folks,I just repaired two webasto burner controllers, one from my 05 Dynasty, and one from my buddy's 02 Windsor.These are the metal can controllers. They are somewhat straight forward to work on, if you are electrically inclined, and have a good solder station or pencil tip 25 watt iron. I have no special knowledge (well, I do have a Ham radio lisc.), but I took mine apart just to look at it, thought the relays looked good, didn't see any burned spots on the board, so I decided to just replace the 6 caps on the board. That was all that I did to get both controllers working again. YMMVI bought the caps from Mouser, here is what I bought for each controller, all I did was match the capacitance, voltage, size and form:2 220mf 16V 20% axial; #594-2222-021-352212 10mf 63V; #594-222-030-381091 470mf 25 VDC; # 667-EEU-FR1E471B1 100mf 25V: # 667-EEU-TA1E101BJThe caps cost about the same as the shipping.CheersBob

WEll, the something simple I was missing was I had the chain upside down, wow, how stupid was that!!! Its all back together again, thank goodness. Changing the top bolt to a socket head cap screw, and using clevis pins with cotter pins on the bottom helped a lot. Looking at the damaged rollers on my galley slide, where the 3 rollers that ride on the guide block when closed, and the 2 top end rollers that ride on the guide block when extended, I have decided from now on to bump the switch to slightly release the tension on the chain in both positions. When it is time to travel, I will retension the chain to the motor stalled sound. Cheers Bob

Hi Folks, Well..... I'm in the middle of replacing my fwd chain on my 05 Dynasty. On my chain, the roller that sits at the bottom of the guide block when the slide is in was broken. The next 2 above were cracked at the axels. Strangely, to me, the bottom 2 rollers that don't seem to contact anything were also cracked at the axels. My chain was in good condition, so I opted to replace the rollers using clevis pins. My challenge, so far, is that I cannot get the chain to feed thru the guide block, either from the top, or bottom. It seem to jam when the second roller enters the guide block. The clevis pins clear fine. I have tied a strong line to the chain, and when feeding from the top stood on the loop in the line, and it still won't feed. I'm hoping I'm missing something simple that you folks can help me with. I'm more than a bit frustrated as the same chain came out relatively easily. Cheers Bob

2005 Monaco Dynasty Platinum IV $109,900 WA State Link: https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/rvs/d/east-wenatchee-slide-monaco-dynasty/7500315142.html Thanks Bob

2005 Monaco Dynasty Platinum IV $99,950 East Wenatchee, WA., 2 Owner dry country coach. https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/rvs/d/east-wenatchee-slide-monaco-dynasty/7402537140.html Thanks for looking, Bob

I feel like an idiot...... When using the ATS remote to initiate the test function, I press the spring loaded rocker switch down (and the switch returns to the center (off position)) and the system starts the genny, and the genny stops after about 1 minute....so far so good....as per my manual... However, the genny then keep cycling on and off, and the green light on the remote switch keep blinking...... How do I turn the bloody ATS test function off? Thanks Bob PS: my remote switch only rests in the center position, not in either the upper "enable", or lower "test" positions.

OK Folks........... Walter nailed it, I'm a dumb A.. .............. I pressed the 9/0 key after my entry code, and AS YOU ALL KNOW........ the bay doors unlocked. Thank you all for your great help. Bob

Thank you all for your responses.......this MAY be starting to make sense to me, particularly Walter's pad 9/0 instruction. When I bought the coach 4 years ago, I just continued using the prior owner's code. AND....TA DA...it ended with the 9/0 key, AND, I reused the code on the new keypad. SO, that is what I'm going to try, adding another 9/0 after I enter the master code. Thanks, I'll report back to close the loop.

My new keypad won't unlock the bay doors. I just replaced my Essex entry keypad with the plugin replacement KE-171BHC for my 05 Dynasty. My master code unlocks the entry door, but not the basement bay doors like the old keypad did. The new keypad will lock the bay doors with the 555 locking code. Am I missing something? Is there some additional programming I need to do on the new keypad?