RWHenhouse

Did you take a look under the front of the coach? Or, locate one of the hydraulic hoses on your generator slide cylinder and follow it back to the pump/manifold. As always, don't crawl under there without proper blocking to prevent the coach from crushing you if the air suspension fails. Disregard my last post. I think your last picture shows the pump manifold, that hex cap is likely the oil fill/check.

I stand corrected! My coach is a 2004 Safari Panther with the Cat 505HP. I assumed the Dynasty would have the same chassis, looks like they made a change, or mine is more of an Executive with a different name.

The last time my hydraulic slides all failed I assumed that I had a bad ground. I ruled that out. Then had my wife push the slide button and determined that I was getting a signal at the pump solenoid/relay switch. I shorted the solenoid while she pushed the button and got the slide in. Assuming that I had a failed solenoid, I replaced that. Still didn't work. When I grounded the terminal attached to the Nason(park brake) switch it worked flawlessly. I replaced the Nason switch and haven't had any problems with it since.

Your hydraulic pump and reservoir are likely more towards the front of the coach, passenger side, just below the AC condenser fan. Lots of hydraulic hoses and running to it. Tough to miss.

I've had the same problem a couple of times. If none of the hydraulic slides work (intermittently) its likely a bad hydraulic pump ground, or a sticky Nason switch. The Nason switch won't allow the pump to run unless the park brake is on. As Ivan says the pump doesn't know if it has any fluid to pump.

$35 is a bargain. I think I paid $120 for one on eBay when I needed one a couple of years ago!

Mine was in the engine compartment, up on the right (passenger side) in the electric panel covered by a plexiglass cover. It's a 20 AMP automotive fuse.

When my dash AC suddenly quit blowing cold, I found that the 20A fuse (rear run bay) for the condenser fan had blown. Replaced it, blew again immediately. Found that the fan motor (in the front, passenger side) had seized up. Replaced fan motor and all is good.

Sounds like your diesel burner isn't igniting. After the flame sensor fails to detect flame the control box closes the fuel valve, runs the blower for a minute or so to clear diesel vapors and shuts down. Toggling switch repeats the attempt. Repeated attempts will result in a lot of raw unburnt fuel in the burner. It's easy to tell if this is happening, turn it on and then see if the exhaust ever gets warm. The hot water/heat you do get is being generated by the electric element which I assume is switched on. Replacing the fuel nozzle and filter usually corrects the problem.

I recently drove my 2004 Safari Panther until the gauge was showing 1/8". (Travelling in NE British Columbia, pumps at planned stop were down.) Hot day for that part of the world, temps 85-90F. Reached truck stop and filled up. Then, engine (Cat C12) would not start. Turned over but would not fire. Tried bleeding water separator (no air, fuel clean), removed all power in an effort to reset ECM if that was the problem, all to no avail. It was getting late so pulled the unit away from the pumps. Next day changed both fuel filters and primed. Old filters were clean. ECM was throwing 2 codes - one for idle shutdown, which happens when I leave it idling too long; and one for low ECM battery - I had had to boost it about 2 months previously. Ended up loading it up and hauling it 300 miles to the Kenworth dealership near my home. It sat in their yard for a week; they towed it into a bay, and it started up on second attempt without doing anything to it. They spent 2 days trying to figure out what the failure might of been, came up empty. Fuel pressure good, grounds good, ECM wiring good, etc. Tough to diagnose something that refuses to fail. After reading Old Dog's post I'm starting to wonder if hot fuel may have triggered my problem.

Thanks for the tip. The rvpartscenter link I posted earlier did not work out for me, they are unable/unwilling to charge to a Visa card associated with a Canadian address, so once again it was Amazon to the rescue! It's a 2 pack, so now I've got a spare! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005JV8D22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks Ray. I'll look into it. It's very sinking feeling when you pull on the latch, something goes click, the latch swings open and nothing happens....

I think I've found it! It's made by Trimark, part number 10335-16. Make sense, because the latch part is Trimark also. Available at: https://www.rvpartscenter.com/shop-by-categories/list1/rv-door-locks/trimark-model-030-0900-rv-entry-door-lock/striker-bolt-500-in,-trimark-10335-16-detail. I'll replace it, re-adjust the lock mechanism, but ALWAYS leave a window unlatched in future.

Well, it finally got me. I have been locked out of my 2004 Panther a couple of times over the years. A pull on the latch caused it to disconnect from the mechanism and then there's no way to open it from the outside. Fortunately, there was always a window unlatched that my wife was able to crawl though and save the day. Then about 2 years ago I figured out to adjust the latch so it wouldn't do that. No problems for 2 years. Then, I got locked out a truck stop, and windows all latched. I was getting ready to break a window, then realized I could probably just cut the strike bolt with a hacksaw blade. About 30 minutes and I was in! Haven't been able to find a replacement strike bolt yet. The part screwed into the door frame appears to be a 3/8" coarse thread, about 1" long. Then there's a 1 1/8" flat washer that seats against the door frame. The "post" that the latch grabs is 1/2" OD and am guessing about 1" long (the cut-off part fell inside the door, haven't found it yet). Has anyone had to replace one of these strike bolts yet? Where did you find one? Thanks!