Bob R

The drive belt on our Splendid 2000 jumped off of the drive pulley. The motor would operate but there was no draining going on since the pump was not being driven. The belt can be accessed through the panel that is screwed onto the rear of the washer dryer. You may need a mirror to see how to reinstall the belt. Bob

I know that I would not be comfortable tackling this problem myself. I have used a shop in the Fort Worth area for similar problems with success. The shop is a truck shop. It is Industrial Power. They are authorized dealers and service for Cummins and Allison equipment. They have been reasonably priced and knowledgeable about my 400ISL and Allison 3000. I believe they are an Izuzu truck facility. You might google the shop for more info. I know they use the insite diagnostic equipment. They provided me with an electronic copy of my engines ECM programming. Contact info for Industrial Power is 817-834-7473. Address is 712 N Beach Street, Fort Worth, TX 76111.

I am planning on traveling from Sedro-Woolley, WA to Sioux Falls next week. Has anyone traveled that route lately? I would appreciate any comments that might allow me to compare the route I took a few weeks ago on I- 84.

Our rear AC is also shared with the W/D. We use this AC more than the other two.

The access door behind the w/d allows access to the back of it. There is maybe a 3 in space between the w/d back and the wall behind. There is a jb back there that I assumed would be the switch. So I pulled the w/d out about one foot and found only the jb. So that’s when my search began. I opened all of the hidden hatches that I could find with no success. I gave up for a while. Then I decided this switch had to be somewhere between the power panel and the w/d. That’s when I found this space that is a wire way from the ceiling down to the floor. The space is very limited in cross section (3 x4) and from the floor to the ceiling. I’ll get a picture and include it with my next post.

I have come to the conclusion that I may have overfilled the batteries. They have not shown any signs of boiling over again. It may have been that the vibration of traveling down some of our interstate highways may have contributed to some of the spillage. Thanks for all of the responses. I learned a lot of information that may help me in the future.

Both areas are on the passenger side of the RV. The closet is between the w/d and the circuit breaker panel. The compartment that the switch was in was 4 in wide x 3 in deep. The switch itself is about 3 x 4. There in was the problem. The space appeared not to be large enough for this switch. In fact I missed this nitch when I was searching for the switch. It was fairly well hidden and very difficult to access.

Well I found the load controller location. It was in a small compartment adjacent to the closet on the passenger side of the RV. The controller was impossible to access in that location. With much difficulty I was able to remove the front cover of the switch. This allowed the controller to be removed from the tight space that it was mounted in. I checked the output voltage to the AC and found no voltage on that output no matter the status of the washer/dryer. So I have ordered a new switch. I hope this takes care of this problem. I owe a lot of thanks to all of you who contributed your input and suggestions as well as encouragement. I don’t think I would have persevered without it. Tom C, I especially appreciate the information that you provided. It will serve me well in the future.

I’m still searching for the load controller for my washer dryer and rear AC unit. I have searched in all locations that are apparent for this controller. The only place I haven’t searched is the ceiling areas. So I’ve about given up hope of locating it. Monaco may have used a different approach to controlling these loads in my 2005 Dynasty.

I found the drawing a few days ago. It indicates the switch is in one of three places. The circuit breaker panel, behind the w/d or under the bed.NOT SO. I looked in each of these plus about 5 more places. So far not found. I’ll continue tomorrow.

Hi Mike, thanks for the photo. I have examined that cabinet and removed the removable wall. The only thing inside that space is the DC wiring harness going to the House DC fuse panel on that wall. I have searched all spaces that seem to be candidates for a mounting spot. I only have two more panels to check. There is a space behind the bedroom TV that is accessible from the bathroom medicine cabinet. And there is a space behind the vertical food pantry in the hall between the kitchen and the bedroom. If I don’t find it there I am at a loss.

Hi Mike, thanks for this information. I didn’t even think of looking in this area for this switch! It makes sense for it to be there since the power panel is right there next to it. I didn’t realize that there was a space behind this wall that might house this. I’ll look when my wife lets me have access to the bedroom. If this is the location I’ll owe you a debt of gratitude. I thought I would have to take the W/D out of its cabinet. I’m not sure what the box behind the washer is if it isn’t the load switch. Thanks for this information!

On the older aqua hot units there was a plastic drain fitting on the lower left of the unit that was notoriously known to fail. I replaced my drain fitting with a metal pipe with a valve to allow draining the coolant. There are plastic fittings used on the water in and the water out fittings that leaked. I replaced these with standard water supply flex connectors. The lower RIGHT of the aqua hot was where the drain fitting was located

My load shed system controlling the w/d and the A/C unit has failed (or my A/C unit has failed). The w/d is operating as normal but the A/C will not operate when the w/d is not running. The A/C will not run in any situation. I have tried to locate the Intellec controller with no luck. I have removed the circuit breaker panel covers and the controller is not in that area. I have looked in the washer/dryer cabinet and see a gray device box but cannot read the nameplate. It is not accessible. It is mounted on the cabinet wall behind the w/d. It has been too hot to climb up on the roof to check the A/C unit. So I thought I’d start with the controller. Is there a standard location for this device? This problem is in my 2005 Dynasty Countess lll. The shore power is 50A. No circuit beakers are tripped. Thanks for any help I can get. Bob

My awning isn’t working either. I can’t find any information that shows how to access the wiring from tha power source to the controller or from the awning controller to the awning itself. If one of you have pictures that would help me I would appreciate it if you could post these. I have a Dynasty Countess lll 2005 MotorHome. Thanks, Bob

Thanks Tom W and Tom C! I appreciate your comments! I’ll check for a shorted cell on the four batteries. That could be the problem. I removed the solar controller supply fuse this morning. I didn’t notice any big change in the charging voltage during my drive from Gallup to Cortez. The charging voltage measured by the Aladdin was still 13.9 - 14.1V. This seems to agree with your observed charging volts on your RV. I didn’t run the generator so can’t compare those conditions with your experience. I understand the electrolyte level information you included. Early on I was pretty naive about battery acid levels. I filled my batteries to a level much too high. I reconditioned my battery tray as a result. But all that said I might have overfilled the batteries before beginning this trip! I appreciate the tip about the battery acid dip stick. As soon as I am able I’ll implement that advice. I’ll let you know what the final solution was in a few days. Again, thanks to you guys for the help. I feel much better about this situation than before.

My domestic batteries are charging at 14V when I’m driving. These batteries boiled a good portion of the electrolyte out of the battery into the battery tray. My solar charger was showing 17V. I removed the fuse for the solar controller and it is still showing 14V. Is there an adjustment on the voltage regulator that I can change to lower the charging voltage from the alternator? I’ll add water to the house batteries so they won’t go dry. This is a 2005 Dynasty with the 400ISL engine. Thanks for any advice you might have. I’m in Gallup, NM so service facilities may be sparse. Bob Raffety

Thanks for the heads up on the possibility of a repeat of this problem and on the advice regarding the safety issue of a failed step. I’ll keep this in mind during my current trip and I will plan on a better fix when I return home.

Well, I took the steps apart mechanically and reassembled them which didn't help. While I was under there I took the opportunity to lube everything in sight. Then I went to the switches in the door frame that are operated by the magnets on the door as the trouble shooting guide suggested. The switches are sealed units so I could only clean the housings and reinstall them. I reassemble everything and magically the steps work correctly again. I don't know what the actual solution was but these few steps resolved the problem. I appreciate all the help that you guys offered. Without this website I would be lost! It is great knowing that there are folks out there who can and will offer to help when things don't work right. Thank you..Thank you! Bob

Martin, The trouble shooting guide you reference in your note was not attached. Can you try to send that file to me via email. rraffety@hotmail.com

On my 2005 Dynasty the entry steps will not pull back in. The RV has set in my garage for about 3 weeks with the steps out. I went out this morning to move the RV out for preparation for an upcoming trip. I was ready to pull out of the garage and my warning light on the steps out did not go out. I tried the switch on the passenger side armrest with no response. I have searched the wiring diagrams and found that there are a few fuses in the armrest that should be there for the step control. After accessing the armrest I could only find one 5A fuse that was fine. I checked the voltage across the 5A fuse holder contacts and found no voltage. The remaining fuses are a mystery. I cannot see them in the armrest. My wiring diagrams do not show the source for the 12V supply. There may be a fuse that supplies this/these circuits that is blown further upstream. Has anyone had this problem and how was it diagnosed? How can I check to see if 12V power is applied directly to the step that the step will operate? If I can't resolve this before my trip is there a way to mechanically operate the step to allow me to get on with the trip? I appreciate any help I can get. Bob

I took the RV to a truck service shop. They confirmed that the leak is on the front seal of the transmission. They have scheduled the fix for next week after they have the parts to do the job. The shop is an Allison approved workshop. So maybe the problem will be handled correctly. I think I will take DavidL's advice and wait and watch the engine seal. It isn't leaking a great amount. Thanks for the advice. I appreciate you guys with all the experience. This is a great website for us "not so informed" RV owners. Bob R

I think the transmission leak is bad enough that the fluid is being blown onto the bottom of the undercarriage. I drove it about 50 miles and it looks like the leak is worse when it is in service. The drip spot on the floor was very small. But that may have been because the transmission had not been operated for several months while the RV was in the garage during the winter. Thanks for the reply, David. Bob Jim J The leak on the front of the engine has been around for about one year. The leak on the transmission was just noticed this year when I took the RV out of storage and drove it a short distance (50 miles).