kenandjoanne2002

Here is another twist. I have been with Good Sam National General for 15 years. This year as most years past I drive from Oregon to Arizona and call insurance with on person on line (early AI) I suppose (:-). I tell non human I want to place my mh on vacation which is always approved. Minumum wait time for vacation is 30 days and I get a $ rebate in mail. This year like in the past (only done twice) I call to get permission to drive for mh repair for one day which is always approved. However this year I memtioned to the actual person I was in Arizona. He came back with you can only put you vehicle on vacation within 100 of policy address which is Oregon. He said he was immediately taking my mh off vacation like I had committed a gross felony. I asked where in my policy did it say vacation was only within a 100miles of my base. He said that it was written in the underwriters papers which I have never seen. I asked since I didn't know of the 100 miles limit what if my mh was broken into or burned. He said that would be up to the underwriter. I sent off a letter to Good Sam with a copy to National General. Within a few day I got a reply from NG that four months vacation was acceptable. Time will tell IF I stay with NG. In my correspondance NG talked of "Full-timer" policy being different than what I was paying for but didn't answer what the difference was.

mhrookie. I am a big time boondocker. I bought a clamp a round voltage and draw meter at a big box store to check my draw when using different items in coach. I discovered that the overhead circuit (using satilite dish, tv, vcr) was taking a big draw. I installed a remote cut off like you may use to turn on/off xmas lights from inside the house. I plugged into that switch and plugged everything into a power strip. If I remember right that draw was 2 to 4 amps. I still have a factory refer but can't tell you what it draws but mostly set on propane when boondocking anyway. 02 Monaco Dip.

Call RVA Company in Centralia, Washington @ 855 782 4068. I had a problem with my 2002 Diplomat and Allen could tell the color of the wire that I needed to look at = he "knows" these systems. Ken Parsons skp72707

A problem with my 02 Diplomat shows up infrequently is there is a loss of connection from the inverter and readout board inside the coach. I use electric contact cleaner on the telephone type connections on the inverter and spray with electric contact cleaner. Also one time I turned off the breaker for the clothes washer/dryer (which I don't have) caused a problem with the ems readout, once turned back on everything returned to normal. Ken Parsons

Boy my head is spinning with all the talk of batteries. I will not use the "b" word again. Many years ago a friend introduced me to a 1 to 3 brick propane heater. The term brick is the number of approx 4" x 10" propane panels in the free standing unit. Purchase one that is safe for indoor use and plumb it into your onboard propane piping. We never use our furance while boondocking! pulls the "b" word down too fast. You can purchase a clamp around electric meter at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $50 (when I bought mine 20 years ago). Since we boondock the majority of the time I wanted to know what was drawing down my power. Clamping the meter on the ground post while the wife turned on different items I could see what was actually drawing the most power. That was very educational. To stop the paricite draw from front overhead (vcr, tv, satilite dish, etc) I bought a remote 110v on/off switch (like one would use for turning on/off xmas lights outside) and plugged that remote switch into the main outlet in the overhead panel. Then into that I used a power strip to pulg in off the item in the overhead. When boondocking I can kill all power to the overhead saving "b" power. For all that do want to talk about "batteries" this website should occupy a day or two, Hee Hee. https://batteryuniversity.com/articles Happy boondocking, Ken Parsons, 72707 02 Diplomat

Thanks klcdenver. After searchng for answers I found that site. RVA has an excellent website. There is a step by step advice on how to find the problem which I did. Testing showed that the relay (Solenoid in my world) attached to the back of the hyd pump is my problem. RVA is still in business in Centerlia, WA and has that part which will arrive in a couple of days. Hopefully that will get my jacks back in service. This appears to be an excellent company with over the top customer service. Ken Parsons

I have done other searching. On the control panel next to pilot seat, with either the ignation switch on or accessory switch on the control panel shows a blinking yellow light in the "retract all", turning on "power" the yellow light goes out but nothing else is light. The fuse panel under the pilot seat all fuses are good. On the hyd pump there is power to the main lug on the sellanoid. The RVA wiring diagram: Typical Wiring Layout is on line. Please help. Ken Parsons 02 Diplomat, RVA

So sorry I forgot the important part!! 2002 Diplomat pbdd, lift system RVA. Ken

Yesterday I did a complete service which I always do myself. Changed engine oil / filter, transmission fluid / filters, water filter, 2 fuel filters, grease chasic, genset oil / filter + fuel filter. Ran engine to temp then checked fluid levels. All OK. Attempted to start genset = no power and no 12 volt. Found master breaker near 12 volt shut off in battery bay had dropped = reset. Everything back to normal. While still up on ramps I lowered the 3 jacks to clean the shafts and spray silicone. Went to raise jacks = nothing working except for yellow light on control. Found blown 15amp fuse in under pilot seat outside large compartment. Replaced fuse attempted to raised jacks = blew fuse. Opened Air conditioning compartment open three manual valves and raised all jacks. Replace fuse still will not lower or raise jacks. Tightened grounds on backside of hyd motor = still nothing moving. If I hold any of the raise/lower buttons on master panel it will blow fuse. I assume there is a silinoid someplace but where? Could the pump have gone bad and is there a way to directly power it from a outside 12v battery? In the past I have had problem with power on/retract all making a good contact but by turning it on/off it would finally make contact and work but not everytime. Any thoughts?

I did not read all the replies to non working electric step. I have had three separate coaches (mine and two others) where the step was stuck either in or out. Using a hammer and tapping the motor got all three working. Mine and one other have continued for years without another problem. The third one started sticking again so he replaced the motor. Ken 02 Diplomat 38pdd

I look for the simplest way to fix everything. I have had a dead EMS several times. I go to the converter bay, unplug two telephone type connecters, give them a shot of electric cleaner spray. 99% of time my EMS panel is working properly. Ken Parsons 02 Dip

Well I went back to my friends shop. First tested the battery we were using to make sure it was charged up well. Then attached a positive and negative onto the wire harness = nothing.. One of you said to tap the motor which I did and WOW it started. We reversed it and WOW again. Reinstalled it and it WORKS!! Does anyone know why taping the motor gets it going again? This happened on my 02 Dip 15 years ago, then 5 years ago to another friends 07 Allegro Bus. BUT being old I forgot the motor tap "repair" which I had done twice before. Getting old and forgot. Thanks much all is well in Arizona.. Ken Parsons

I am helping a friend with his 2007 Dip with entry door step that quit. We have the motor on the work bench. There are two wires in a plug in connector. Using a 12v battery which is grounded to the motor and touching a hot lead to either wire in the connector there is NO movement of the motor. Should the motor activate?

First of all, I am not a electrical wise person. When I first bought my 2002 Diplomat when turning on my florescent lights the digital readout on my EMS panel would go crazy, blinking/flashing. I took my coach to Monaco repair shop in Coburg warranty repairs. Techs there couldn't find the problem so I looked up the EMS manufacture and sent them an email. They replied very rapidly saying that they would send me a wiring harness which I stopped at a Monaco Dealer in Phoenix installed. Problem solved. My point is go the the manufacturing company and ask them!

I have a 2002 Dip ordered new. Due to this forum and reading all the problems with factory installed aluminum radiators tried to solved my radiator from have leak problems. When I "did" get a radiator leak I used Bars Stop Leak (two) into the system and drove the coach to get it flowing. I had the radiator cap tight while doing this. After getting a positive stop to the leak I then loosened the radiator cap so it would not build pressure. I have 130k on my coach and never had temp exceed 210 deg for any lengthy time and no more leaks as the pressure within the radiator was low. From the photos show a very dirty radiator. I power wash mine with a 1500psi power washer 3-4 times a year with just plain water.

I have owned my 02 Dip since new and now has 136k. I left my AZ home where the coach in connected to 30amp service. When I got to Oregon and connected to 50amp my ems would only show 30amp. I won't bother you with all the things I tried but not my first rodeo of fixes over the years. I finally gave up and drove the coach to a good rv repair. We pushed, pulled, tested and swore a little. I have been running for years with the W/D breaker off as I don't have one. The mechanic flipped the breaker on and off and halleluiah the ems displayed 50amp. I drove home with the W/D breaker off and when I plugged into 50amp (o hit) ems was back on 30amp. I turned on the W/D breaker and halleluiah again we were back to 50amp. I have left the W/D breaker on ever since and ems shows correctly either 30 or 50 amp. Don't know why it work and really don't care, as long as it works. have a good day, Ken

The only thing I can add to what is already said is: I have a 02 Dip w/6 AGM batteries and lots of solar. Several years ago I ran a Directv dish plus a Hughnet dish. I wanted to shut off my parasite draw so I installed a remote on/off switch (like one would use for Xmas lights). I plugged the remote switch into the normal 120v outlet in the front overhead compartment. I then plugged a 6 outlet power strip for the right side and then plugged another 6 outlet power strip into the first one for the left side. Now all have to do is turn the remote switch off and kill ALL electric (TV, satellite, VCR, etc) so no parasites' loss. Ken Parsons

I think Paul may be on the right track but. I have a 02 Dip w/ISC 330. Coming across the Continental Divide from Colorado Springs to Gunnison is quite a pull. Upon reaching the summit I was on exhaust brake while on steep downgrade. Upon reaching the flats I turned off exhaust brake and stepped on throttle. Boy you could have hidden a battle ship in the black smoke. I found the exhaust brake cylinder was stuck closed. I found the air line to the cylinder has melted and loosing air. I made it into Gunnison and replaced the melted air line. I also found that the plunger had unscrewed from the piston. Called Pack Brake who said that they had never heard of that before. They sent me a new one and all is well. Ken Parsons

This business should be added to "RV Service Reviews" which is an RVer input both good and bad. It certainly helps others when in an unfamiliar area. Ken Parsons 02 Monaco Diplomat

Other than Scott61 I didn't see anyone using the Tire Tracker TT-600. I have had my 10 tire unit for 5+ years. Put about 20k miles and have only had one trip without a "No S" (no signal) many times. There is a "reset button" which resets all sensors in about 10-15 minutes. Sometime the No S will correct and sometime not. It isn't a bad signal on the same tire except the RR inside dual. I have purchased 3-4 new sensors after calling Tire Traker tech without getting a root cause. I always replace all sensor batteries before a long tire and the monitor is fully charged. I also have a signal booster in the rear of my coach. A couple of times I have gotten "rapid leaking" or "low tire" which caused me to stop and check. Getting the "No S" alarm forces me to look at the monitor rather than the road which is a real safety hazard. NOT HAPPY with Tire Traker.

Norris RV is the only place that comes to mind. https://www.norrisrv.com/ is a really busy place but it never hurts to call. Arizona City resident in winter. Ken Parsons

I have a 02 Diplomat with the original Jensen b/w rear camera. I want to update to colored but use the same cables. #1 has anybody done that? Were the wiring similar? Did you need a professional electrocution? Are some newer colored units better than others? My camera pin has 6 pins and power connection has 3. Ken Parsons 02 Monaco Diplomat pbdd

Charles. I remember some time ago another member saying that their cruise wouldn't work if one of the brake/turn lights was burned out. Ken Parsons

Ron. I have had that problem several times. The two wires going into the pump need to be wiggled and maybe a shot of electric contact cleaner. Often this just takes a couple of seconds. My original pump the cheap male electric connections just corroded off. Replaced the pump but kept the old one and wired it direct.

Call Northwest RV in Oregon 541 746 9092