biloxi_dad

Tom, Just hooked DC and AC back up to unit after 2 hrs disconnected. With AC (shore) applied, green LED flashed once/sec. When I pressed inverter power, LED went out, but I can hear unit humming. It’s been on for 10 minutes now and no LED (steady or flashing). In the past, the Green LED would illuminate steady when charging. Both Remote and batt temp sensor still disconnected. Is this correct or should I connect the remote?

Thanks Tom. I don’t have solar, but I’ll be giving the hard reset a try today. Will respond back with results tomorrow. Also included a pic of my remote. The green light on Charge is flashing. No AGS (auto Genny start?) plug on network input of inverter; only Remote and batt temp)

Thanks for the Owner manual for the ME2012 inverter/charger. I have one already, but the one you provided was much updated (2017) compared to mine (2005). Not sure how much is valid to my older unit. In my manual, it does mention resetting the unit, but doesn’t tell how. I have done the factory reset option on the remote, but no luck getting the charger to operate. As stated in my original request for assistance, I have checked and reset the breakers on the inverter/charger. I have removed power from the unit by opening the 120V breaker on the main panel in the back bedroom for the inverter and connecting the 12V battery bank to the inverted/charger unit. When I close the 120V breaker and power is applied to the unit, I can hear what sounds like a unit under the kitchen power up (humming) for about 5-10 seconds. Then the humming stops and in the past that’s when the inverter/charger would come on according to the remote readout. I could always hear this when I start the genset and it supplies voltage to the coach. But now once the hum stops, nothing else happens. The readout shows current house battery charge and the red”fault” light comes on the remote and it reads DC Overload. Is it possible that the T Series fuse to the Inverter/Charger is blown? Would this cause my problem? This fuse is in the battery bay on the other side of the wall from the Inverter/charger.

I have a 2005 HR Ambassador which I brought home to clean up for spring/summer travel. I keep it in covered storage and periodically run it and Genny to keep batteries charged and operational over the winter. When I brought it home, applied 120V shore power to charge house batteries, run fantastic fan and residental refrigerator while cleaning. Everything has been working fine all morning. Left for a few hours and came back to fine remote monitor indicating “DC overload” fault. I shut down all power, checked 12V flooded battery voltage to be 12.5V. Checked charger/inverter and all 3 circuit breakers were set, but I reset the two output breakers just in case. The green LED on the unit was out indicating it was not working. I was running the charger and inverting option at the same time. Could I have fried the unit? Left it over night thinking it could be an overheat issue (although never had that problem before. I checked my four 6 volt deep cycle batteries to ensure they were not low on fluid and all were fine. All connections seem tight and no corrosion. I applied shore power and checked again this morning and still showing “DC overload”. Removed shore power and applied genset power and got same result. Is there another circuit breaker I’m not checking or is the charger/inverter needing replacement (manufacture date: 3d qtr 2004)?

I used one of the Florida companies (Ft Myers area) to remove the shield from my 2005 HR Ambassador. I couldn't ask for a better experience. It did take most of the day to complete, but no paint loss, no nicks; perfect job. Then they did a complete wax and buff of the entire front-end. See before and after below.

A while back there was a post on product(s) used to counter rust on the battery compartment tray. I've searched the various topics on this forum and can't find it. One in particular used a paint/primer and a type board (if memory serves correctly) to protect the tray. Looking for some input/suggestions. TIA

@Steven P Richard (Dr4Film) is correct ...I had the work dont at Billy T's in Lafayette LA. Very good people to work with and they did a good job in the timeframe promised. Highly recommended. Can vary greatly...call them for an estimate. They'll need to ask questions and may need to see pics before they give you a price.

The Samsung is not as deep as the Norcold, so they didn't need to touch the drain line...the platform and Samsung sits in front of that drain.

This past summer I replaced my Norcold 1200 for a new Samsung in my 2005 HR Ambassador. The furnace is under the frig and there was little/no excess headroom with the Norcold. I took it to an RV shop that specializes in doing modifications. They were able to lower the platform 5" without affecting the furnace. All's good...glad I had it changed. Much better frig and much more space. PS...mine runs on MSW inverter just fine.

I have a 2005 HR Ambassador 37 PDD and just (in April 2021) installed a new Samsung R18 with furnace below. Width-wise, just removed some molding. There was 5" of space below floor holding the Notsocold 1200 that proved to be plenty of space (nothing above). Now with the Samsung there is still an inch above the furnace cowling. The new Samsung doesnt have the door handles that protrude into the walkway...just pull french doors from built in handles in bottom of doors. Old unit out and new one in thru side window behind passenger seat. I love the new frig's space and how cold it stays (recommended 37 frig/0 freezer by manufacturer). I don't know exact energy consumption, but it ran off inverter all day while traveling and still had battery power to spare using 4 x 6volt lead-acid batteries (ice maker off until on shore power). So far I'm very happy I made the switch. John H.

I have a 2005 HR Ambassador with the 4-door Norcold reefer. After I purchased in 2017, I took it to an authorized Norcold repairman and he made some changes that made it work better, but would like to swap it out for a residential. I don't feel comfortable doing the changeout myself. Furnace is below frig and want to keep it. Does anyone have suggestions as to where i might take it to have the changeout? I live in Biloxi, MS. John H. 2005 HR Amb. & Jeep toad

Yes, the damper motor. John & JRT Cody 2005 HR Ambassador w/ Jeep Wrangler toad

I have a 2005 HR Ambassador with Sharp micro/Convection oven that only ran 1 min on Convection...found it was a part that cost about $25. Replaced 2 yrs ago and it still working properly. You have similar problem?

Direct TV bundle works great. Selling because I switched to Dish. Bought new in 2017 from Canping World. Includes all connectors and 35' of coax for antenna to receiver. $300 and you pay shipping. Contact me at biloxi_dad@ yahoo.com

Direct TV bundle works great. Selling because I switched to Dish. Bought new in 2017 from Canping World. Includes all connectors inc. 35' of coax for antenna to receiver. $300 and you pay shipping. Contact me at biloxi_dad@ yahoo.com

I'm having the same issues with ABC and CW East. I talked to DirecTV technical support (TS) and was told Congress did not renew the Stellar law allowing them to broadcast the DNS channels. TS said it COULD be renewed soon, BUT no promises. He did say Customer Loyalty may give a prorated bill if it doesn't fix soon. He also said the other channels (NBC, CBS, etc.) could go as well. I too have been considering going to Dish. John H. 2005 HR Ambassador, Jeep Wrangler road and Cody the JRT.

I am getting multiple copies of the daily digests this morning. These are my first examples of this problem. I use Yahoo mail. I've gotten at least 5 of the same emails this morning. Thanks for working this Scotty.