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Frank McElroy

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Frank McElroy last won the day on March 4

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  • FirstName
    Frank
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Dynasty
  • Year
    2008
  • City & State
    Flemington, NJ

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    12 Deerpond Ct, Flemington, New Jersey, 08822
  • Brief Bio (Optional)
    Monaco owner since 2007; Motorhomes since 1989; Member since January 2009
  • Profile (Optional)
    Monaco owner since 2007, owned motorhomes since 1989, Husband, Father, Grandfather, Retired PhD chemist - 35 yrs ExxonMobil R&D.

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Community Answers

  1. Thank you for the kind words and I'm glad you were able to start the coach engine. Yes, your coach is driveable. As for all the other LED lights being out in the RRB, the left side of the circuit on the board you removed has a MOSFET that's used to power all the LEDs on all the boards in the RRB. So, without this power supply, none of the other LEDs on those boards will light but all the boards should function just fine. If you look closely at the board you removed, there is a label called TEST. You will see this label on all the other boards in the RRB wiring diagrams. I thought why add more complexity to the procedure to start and run the engine with yet another set of procedures to build a circuit to operate those fancy wow indicator lights that you really don't need unless you are trying to troubleshoot problems in the RRB. Glad you're getting to the bottom of the comm error problem. I think your likely issue is the K1 relay or associated pcb connections.
  2. Ok, I think I figured it out. Look at the circuit board schematic. On that board the wire on J4 sends 12 vdc power to the engine ECM when the ignition has been turned on. So, if relay K1 is starting to go bad, the ECM will lose the ignition signal - that's likely your problem. That means you also need to connect a wire through a 20 amp fuse from 12VDC to the wire that was on terminal J4. This will tell the ECM that that ignition is turned on. That wire would need to either be switched or disconnected when the engine is off. Now it makes sense as to why this board is causing your problem. Should be an easy fix for the candy shop.
  3. It could be that something was pulling down the ignition signal when you pressed on it. You'll know tomorrow when you try the test start.
  4. I'm a bit surprised that this board would in effect cause the equivalent of cycling the ignition switch when you pressed on it. I don't see on the ignition switch schematic where the ignition feeds through this board to the engine ECM. If it does, then my trick to turn on the ignition and jumper that 12 VDC wire to the relay terminal won't work to start the engine. If it doesn't work, I'll investigate more. Most times an intermittent ignition loss signal is an ignition switch going bad. Com failure means that the dash cluster computer lost communication with the engine ECM because of a databus issue or an ignition lost signal to the engine ECM.
  5. They are the same as the dynasty/signature. They are in our Downloads, under Electrical, Wiring diagrams. Your other option is to turn on the ignition and use a wire to touch the starter relay lug circled in red to a 12 volt source. This will crank the starter and start the engine. If you want, just use the 12 volt wire that was on R1 that you removed. Just touch it to the starter relay terminal circled in red.
  6. No, you don't need the board. You just add a fuse between pins 2 and 4 on connector J2 that would plug into the board.
  7. Add a 15 amp fuse on connector J2 between pins 2 and 4. This will in effect bypass this board. 38031552 (Schematic, Keyswitch Ignition).pdf 38040024 (Schematic, RRB Board 1).pdf
  8. The S connections are internal to the wiring harness. You'll need to follow the wire to find it. From what you are describing, it sounds like a poor ground on the parking/signal light assembly.
  9. Reboot the Intellitec multiplex system by either cycling the battery cutoff switch or disconnecting the house batteries. Also, reset the aquahot system at the control board in the aquahot bay.
  10. You have a voltage drop problem like Tom Cherry thought early on. Please go back and reread his earlier posts. A bad cable connection, bad batteries, or bad ground. Check cables for a voltage drop like Myron suggested.
  11. Exactly. Until John posts real data under load, the 12.7 volt measurement means nothing. Unless he has a voltage measurement between the +12 and ground connections at the generator (not frame ground) he has not proven that the generator is seeing 12 volts while the generator is starting.
  12. That master is NOT programmable. Here is a link to a very good document in our files that explains the two different Intellitec multiplex systems. One is programmable and one is not.
  13. Since you confirmed that you are getting 12.7 volt power to the generator, my best advice is for you to follow the trouble shooting section 12.7 in the Onan service manual. BUT - PLEASE FIRST POST THE BATTERY VOLTAGE WHILE PRESSING THE START SWITCH ON THE GENERATOR WITH THE VOLTMETER CONNECTED TO THE GENERATOR POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINALS AT THE BACK OF THE GENERATOR. See sections 12-1 and 12-2 on pages 61 and 62 in the attached Onan manuals link - you want the service manual. Earlier, I attached a Monaco schematic of the remote controls including the Intellitec interface.
  14. The battery connections you want to test are on the BACK of the generator where the large +12 and Ground cables are connected.
  15. If you are saying that with the voltmeter is connected to the battery cables on the back of the generator, the voltage goes to zero when you press the start switch on the generator, it means you either have dead coach batteries, or high resistance in one of 12 volt cables from the chassis battery bank or the ground cable connecting the generator to the chassis frame is bad. First try connecting the voltmeter ground to the chassis frame, not the ground lug on the generator. A loose generator ground cable would show the voltage readings you are seeing provided your voltmeter was actually on the +12 and ground connections on the generator.
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