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vanwill52

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vanwill52 last won the day on July 30

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  • FirstName
    Van
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Dynasty--36
  • Year
    2000
  • City & State
    Pinehurst, NC

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  • Brief Bio (Optional)
    2000 Dynasty 36
    No Slides
    ISC-350
    Pulling Silverado & Harley

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  1. Bought mine in April 2013, from two SAINTS...Bob and Sue Hought. Spent a lot of time on pre-emptive maintenance, then doubled down in 2016 just before five of us coaches left for AK. It was the trip of a lifetime. I came to faith on that trip, largely thanks to Tom and Paula Moore, Bob and Pam Nodine, and Craig and Angie French. And made friends to last a lifetime. I've been aggravated many times with what I see as poor engineering and quality control in my coach, but it has repaid me 100X over in life experiences that I treasure. I'm soon to be 72, and don't see the day I "hang up the keys" just yet, but I know it's coming. Thanks to Dave Pratt and Sandy, Scottie and Deb, Paul Whittle and Barb, and so many others who have made my "motor home journey" the high point of my life. I'm not the greatest tech that ever graced this forum, but I've always felt a desire to help others solve problems and hope that they get from their experiences what I got from mine. God bless you all!
  2. Yeah, the "daisy-chaining" can definitely be confusing. My problem with my vanity outlet has nothing to do with your problem. I just think it was a poor choice to use push-in connections in an application where there is constant vibration and movement. It's not a big deal to change them ALL out, and that's probably what I should have already done, instead of only replacing them one by one. Glad your trip went "relatively" OK. There is almost no such thing as a trip with "no issues", although I busted my arse to be sure I would not have issues on the Alaska trip...and it paid off. The oldest coach in that caravan in 2016 was the ONLY one that had NO issues. We do what we can... Bless you, my Brother.
  3. You probably have your FASS pump energized indirectly by the ignition switch, so there is no EASY way to disable it while running. If you could disable it at idling (when it is not needed) that might satisfy your curiosity. If you ever figure it out, please let us know.
  4. I tend to agree with Richard on this one. 58 seconds is hardly long enough for the coolant temp to rise much at all. I know this is totally unrelated, but I have had similar problems with my 7500 generator--running a very short time and then shutting off. In my case, it could always be cured by holding down the Start/Stop switch in the Stop position repeatedly for 30-60 seconds. During that time, you can hear the fuel primer pump running. That procedure is in the manual for the Onan. It would normally apply only if you had changed fuel filters or done something to disconnect the fuel inlet plumbing. But in my case, I've had to do this multiple times over the years when the genny knocked off. Don't recall the error codes the first time it happened. Now, I just know what to do to get it going again. HTH. Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.
  5. Jim, I also have always thought that the "push-in" outlets (regular and GFI) had no place in a motor home that is constantly bumping down the road. They seem to work OK in residential applications. But every time I've had to pull an outlet, I replaced it with one that had screw terminals available. Only had one problem ever, and that was the vanity outlet gave up the ghost when a hair dryer (high amperage) was plugged in and overloaded an already poor push-in connection. Charred the outlet, but no fire.
  6. Jim, I used the original OEM SUPPLY lines to FEED the FASS pump. But I installed a separate, additional return line for the FASS pump itself. I first considered adding a tee and plumbing the FASS RETURN line into the RETURN line leaving the OEM Lift Pump Manifold. Both the instructions and a call to FASS support confirmed that there is indeed an "over-pressure" sensor somewhere in the ISC return line plumbing, and the extra ouput of the FASS pump, IF CONNECTED TO THE EXISTING RETURN LINE FROM THE LIFT PUMP, would likely trigger that sensor. Support said it does not ALWAYS trigger the sensor, but that it happened often enough that they recommended the additional FASS-dedicated return line. I had an unused tapping in my fuel tank, so I ran the FASS-dedicated return to that fitting. If, anywhere along the line, you joined the FASS return line to the same tapping in your fuel tank, PERHAPS that might be an issue. IFF that were the case, the sensor would most likely be triggered at IDLE, when the CAPS pump is returning the max amount through the Lift Pump manifold, and the FASS is returning most of what it pumps to the tank at the same time. I think I understood that you also installed the separate, dedicated return line for the FASS pump. Is that true? Did it use its own dedicated tapping at the fuel tank? Interesting problem. You are a methodical guy. I'm sure you'll find a reason for the problem.
  7. My conduits were also crowded, but using a metal snake to draw a nylon cord through enbabled me to get it through. I used two people, one at each end, to yank and wiggle it as I went. I removed the overhead panels from my storage bay. I drug the two cables through bound together. Had that process encountered difficulty, I might have tried pulling one at a time. If you use nylon cord for your "pull snake", lash the ends of the two cables together tightly with small nylon twine binding the "pull snake" to the two cables, then tape the end where your "pull snake" exits the bundle so that it is smooth and pointed, I think you'll be able to get it through. I let my two cables enter the FRB (front run bay) under the driver's window, then go upward into the console. From there, it was easy to snake it up behind the instrument panel. Good luck! It is really handy to have spare wires available on a terminal strip. There are OEM spare wires available running from the engine compartment to the instrument panel on EVERY Monaco I've ever worked on, but they are varying sizes and many folks report not being able to find them at all. They are ALWAYS there somewhere, but having terminal strips at each end is handy.
  8. David, the special "Type K" thermcouple wire is stiff and appears slightly fragile and prone to kinking. It is indeed a bear to run. The gages like the AutoMeter one I installed use ordinary copper wire, making the process infinitely easier. Since I have found so many times that I needed extra wires running from the engine bay to the instrument panel, I finally used this as an excuse to run TWO 7-conductor, 14 AWG trailer wiring cables front to rear and end them with terminal strips front and rear. The multi-conductor cable is neoprene-sheathed and very flexible, waterproof, and rugged--You can yank on it when necessary while snaking it forward. The box marked "EGT Gage" is the "amplifier" that allows the millivolt signal to be transmitted over ordinary copper wire. Van
  9. Jeff, I'll be very interested in your results. I installed a Poynting MIMO coupled to a Cradlepoint router. I mounted the Poynting on an 18" aluminum square plate on stilts to raise it slightly and not have the signal reduced due to proximity of the AC unit. I expected a large improvement over my MiFi mounted in a Wilson cradle attached to an external antenna. I was very disappointed. The new combo gave almost identical performance to the existing setup. I hope yours performs better, and perhaps I see some mistake I made.
  10. I cannot discount that failure as a very remote possibility, but the great majority of EGT probes are mounted in the exhaust manifold, as per the installation instructions.
  11. My 2000 Dynasty has the ISC-350 engine, and it is electronically controlled.
  12. Unfortunately, there is no EGT input to the ISC model ECM's. The ECM does NOT reduce fueling to control EGT. I know that seems strange, but I'm guessing Cummins just tested their programming extensively and limited fueling to what they felt was safe. The only recognition I've seen from Cummins was when I read SOMEWHERE in their literature, "Limit full throttle conditions"--sort of an admission that damage might occur under extreme conditions. I have no personal experience with that kind of damage, nor have I read of anyone having that kind of damage, but it certainly appears possible, when a bone-stock ISC can easily reach 1400*F. One thing you will quickly learn from watching the EGT gage is how heavily it is influenced by engine RPM. You can tame EGT on a long pull by keeping the RPM high.
  13. Bob, I wish you luck convincing "Mrs. Bob", but I find that claims for increased performance ACCOMPANIED by fuel mileage increases are 99% "snake oil" and 1% anecdotal anomalies. My own experience with increasing fueling on my 1993 Dynasty 8.3-250 and my 2000 Dynasty ISC-350, is that fuel mileage DECREASES a small amount in proportion to how much you use that extra available power (extra FUELING). There ain't no free lunch. I asked Ag Solutions to pre-program my 12100 "chip" for a modest increase, and not to reach the point of smoking. I got a modest increase in power, which I use every time I exit a rest stop to merge. Even with 30 PSI boost, I reach 1400*F EGT by the time I merge. And my fuel mileage has suffered only about 0.2 MPG. I enjoy the additional power, but use it as little as possible. And, of course, it increases EGT, so I think it's prudent to install an EGT gage prior to a "chip" and establish a "baseline" before adding fueling. I've found that bone-stock EGT can be considerably beyond the ubiquitously accepted 1200*F. My bone-stock ISC-350 would EASILY reach 1400*F under some conditions. And contrary to popular opinion, there is NO sensing of EGT by the stock ECM. I SUSPECT (do not KNOW) that Cummins exhaustively tested their ECM program to preclude engine damage under 99% of all expected operating conditions. You can, of course, increase boost pressure to bring down EGT to "pre-chip" levels, as discussed elsewhere on this forum.
  14. NO! I'm saying that no matter how high your boost pressure is above the "stock" configuration, the ECM will NOT deliver ANY additional fuel to take advantage of the increased boost BEYOND THE MAX IT IS ALREADY PROGRAMMED FOR. At your STOCK boost PSI, the ECM will deliver a max amount of fuel that is programmed for that max STOCK boost. Increase your boost above stock and the ECM will not deliver one iota more fuel. Only Cummins INSITE software can change that. The ECM delivers an amount of fuel based on throttle position, boost, and a few other parameters like intake manifold temperature, coolant temperature, etc. But NOTHING (other than a "chip") will deliver one iota beyond the MAX fuel per injection that the ECM is programmed to deliver. Re-read my post more carefully. If it was as simple as increasing boost to increase performance, there would not be a "chip" industry. All you would have to do is increase boost, the ECM adds more fuel because of increased boost...and VOILA!...you have more power. You are talking about "theory", which I HOPED was true when I began this adventure. I hoped if I increased boost, the ECM would recognize the additional boost and add more fuel. ABSOLUTELY NOT. I'm talking about lots of hours of EXPERIENCE, learning that the ECM will NOT add extra fuel just because I have raised boost pressure. Increased boost will reduce EGT, but will not add additional fueling. Without additional fueling, there is NO increase in power. A few folks on this forum understand that principle. I'm not trying to be rude, and certainly not condescending. I'm simply stating a FACT that my EXPERIENCE has proven beyond a shadow of a doubt--raising boost will NOT increase MAX fuel delivery (and therefore CANNOT increase power). If you wish to dispute that fact, please provide dyno statistics...before and after boost increase. Your OPINIONS fall into the same category as my HOPES when I began increasing boost pressure. I'm an engineer. I trust FACTS. The FACT is that increasing my boost pressure did nothing other than reduce my EGT. I was disappointed. I hoped the ECM would recognize the additional boost and supply additional fuel to take advantage of it. NOPE. I had to add a "chip" to get increased fueling...and performance. Richard, I suspect that you can talk to the folks at Ag Solutions and get a 12100 part number pre-programmed to take advantage of the additional boost the Banks "hot-rod" turbo provides. I think they tend to be somewhat conservative. Just like the Cummins ECM, their "chip" is programmed to provide only a specified amount of additional fueling. You are like me, and I think you could keep an eye on your EGT gage and control EGT with throttle position and RPM. They are not expensive, and they simply have an “extension cord” device that plugs into one of the three-prong connectors leaving the injection control unit. It’s a very easy addition. I have no doubt you could handle the installation yourself. Just tell them you already have the Banks turbo and tell them what your boost PSI is. Ask them to program your unit accordingly. You have my phone number. Call me if you have any questions. Van
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