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vanwill52 last won the day on April 5

vanwill52 had the most liked content!

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    Pinehurst, NC

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    2000 Dynasty 36
    No Slides
    Pulling Silverado & Harley

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  1. I would have the steering gear replaced and THEN evaluate whether you need anything else done. Again, changing the steering gear will not affect alignment one iota.
  2. Jim, I don't see the exact FASS system that I installed. It was 95 GPH. Perhaps it has been replaced by TS D02 100G, approximately $649 from the FASSRIDE.com site. This is a 100 GPH pump assembled onto a manifold with the two filters attached. Titanium Signature Series Diesel Fuel Pump 100GPH Dodge Cummins 5.9L 1989-1993 (TS D02 100G) - Fassride You have the choice basically between the pump with or without the filters and manifold. I chose the pump/manifold/filters version simply because I wanted to have the full-time filtering. With this version you MUST install a separat
  3. The Monaco Watts installations should not have caused the pulling to the right or made any change in your alignment. Check for something obviously awry, like one of the cross-bars unequally tightened. Do you have the Safety-Steer (?) device installed? It's the one that looks like a huge shock absorber with one end fastened to the front axle and the other end to the relay rod that ties the two spindle ends together. It is easy to get it clamped a tiny bit too far in one direction or the other, causing a pull. To check that, disconnect it from the relay rod, tie it up out of the way and
  4. Oops! Yes, of course, it's GPH. Thanks for catching that.
  5. Note that one of the major differences in these systems is whether they are pump-only, or pump + filters. Some of them have very high delivery rates, but I can't imagine anyone with a Monaco needing more than the "standard" of approximately 95-120 GPM. Bear in mind that there is no performance advantage. You are simply hoping to extend the life of your CAPS pump and make filter changes easier. As one poster noted, you can change your final filter to a 2 micron. If you choose the additional filter version, you get full-time fuel filtering.
  6. Jim makes a very valid point, essentially that "there ain't no free lunch". Any service YOU access might not cost YOU directly, but providing the service isn't free. Just because it's free to YOU (like Bill D's Monacoers) doesn't mean SOMEONE isn't paying for you to use it. If this group ever finds it must go to subscription to stay alive, I'll be first in line to pay my share. Yes, I've used Duck Duck Go and probably every other search engine that has come and gone. Duck Duck Go is not bad for a fifth-rate, under-funded offering. If its users were willing to "pay their fair share",
  7. The problem with making a sweeping statement like, “I won’t visit any site that makes money off my contributions or simply because I am a member” is that (if you HONESTLY pursue that line) you cut yourself off from waaaay more than you realize. Is there a major credit card company that does not have ads onsite? I use Chase, and they are rife with ads…non-obtrusive, but ads nonetheless. Even my tiny regional bank, that has supported my machine shop business for decades, has a website that refers me to other services “You might be interested in…” How would you like to make your choice of fin
  8. Ernie, you have always been a great resource for this group and for all coach owners. I saw the job you did on Paul Whittle's coach--AWESOME! Van
  9. I tend to post only on things with which I have PERSONAL EXPERIENCE (because I feel the spectre of my old friend Bill D breathing over my shoulder?) I can say that I had a problem with algae in my fuel, even though I only park over extended periods with a full tank. I built my own fuel polishing setup. It removed quite a bit of contaminant. That was two years before the FASS installation. As I reported, in a short time after the FASS installation, I had to change a PRIMARY filter (the one on the FASS manifold). It had the same appearance as the problem I had experienced before "polishing
  10. Dave? I think the difference is that the model(s) that does not have the filters and manifold has an internal bypassing pressure relief valve. It recirculates the excess fuel from the output of the pump back to the input of the pump internally. At least I think that is what I read when I was deciding which pump model to buy. There is nothing wrong with doing it that way. You still have positive pressure at the CAPS pump inlet and will never starve it. You will also be pushing more fuel through the CAPS pump and back to the tank through the existing return line in the lift pump manifo
  11. I had the same experience of much faster engine turnover using a gear-reduction Denso to replace the Delco on an ISC-350 in a 2000 Dynasty. Measured the current and it was much lower inrush with the Denso and also significantly lower while continuously turning over. Spins over like a Honda. Will start in freezing weather without block heater and not even waiting for the "Wait to Start" lamp to extinguish, although that was only a test--I always wait for the "Wait to Start" lamp to extinguish. I think there is also a gear-reduction starter from Delco, but I know nothing about it.
  12. Jim, I used the same supply line from the main fuel tank that fed into the original primary filter. IIRC, I used the same line originally going from the outlet of the primary filter to the lift pump (look it up, the connections are not intuitive) to plug into the outlet of the FASS pump. I know I did not have to have any additional hoses made. I only removed and discarded some lines from the original lift pump. So, the only line I had to ADD was the long 1/2" return line from the FASS pump to the tank. My tank had an unused tapping in it...probably for an Aqua-Hot option, which I do not h
  13. Jim, I'm going to try to attach some pix of the fuse block installation. I got the battery+ from the RRB (rear run bay). It feeds a continuous duty contactor that is triggered by an on-with-ignition source in the terminal block above the contactor. The diode is there as spike insurance, since some of the ignition terminals are used as inputs to the ECM. The output of the contactor (2 AWG) goes to the rear of the RRB and into the engine compartment and feeds a Blue Sea 10-circuit fuse panel. I've used the fuse panel to supply any number of loads, including my EGT gage, Fuel Pressure gage,
  14. I'm not sure how well you understand 12VDC electrics, but adding a multiple fuse block SWITCHED ON BY IGNITION in your rear engine area will prove to be useful many times. HOWEVER, do not just connect to an ignition key signal and try to power whatever from that signal. Use that signal to power a contactor (relay) to power a fuse block that you install that can then be used for virtually anything. Let the contactor connect to a major battery +12VDC post and then power your fuse block from that contactor. I've installed such a fuse block and have since used it for my FASS pump, my exter
  15. As David said, many are not dimmable. Internal voltage regulation circuitry causes them to dim only slightly before beginning to flicker and then turning completely off.
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