vanwill52

I removed my thermocouple, after approx 20K miles, and it was pristine. You are UNQUESTIONABLY correct about what happens to thermocouple pieces should the probe disintegrate (not necessarily that they destroy the turbo)...but I think the risk is miniscule. I would prefer to know the ACTUAL exhaust temperature, than an "extrapolated" one. And I hesitate to digress, but Ivan and several others realize EGT is NOT piston temperature...not even close. So many "experts" will say that EGT of 1100*F is above the softening temperature of the best piston materials. But EGT is NOT piston temperature...not by a long shot. If EGT temp equaled piston temp, ALL Cummins engines would self-destruct under high-load, low-RPM operation. Install an EGT gage (in the manifold, before the turbo) and you will quickly realize that I have what Bill D would call "personal experience". Even on a bone-stock ISC, you can easily see EGT's that FAR exceed the melting point of even the best piston materials. PLEASE do your research before you post internet BS. I have now been running a slightly "hopped up" ISC for nearly four years. Get your ICE (internal combustion engine) understanding before offering your virtually worthless personal (not from personal experience) OPINION on CI (compression ignition, i.e. DIESEL). Sorry if I seem to be condescending. I do not mean to be. But there is SOOO much worthless BS out there on the subject of EGT.

I suspect it is reasonably linear, no matter where in the exhaust system you mounted it. I mounted mine in the exhaust manifold. Drilled and tapped where the front and rear cylinder manifolds came together. DO NOT DRILL DEAD CENTER OF THE MANIFOLD. There is a rib there. Drill on either side of it. Because of the laws of thermodynamics, the exhaust temperature at the turbo exit will surely be lower than at the exhaust manifold.

Yes, the K-type thermocouple with a short lead is still used. Its output connects to the amplifier, and then plain copper wire from the amplifier is used to connect to the gage. Don't know why this wasn't thought of years ago! BTW, when you connect the EGT gage, you will be amazed at how high the temp will go in a bone-stock engine. It is easily possible to hit 1450*F in low-RPM, high-load conditions. So many posts on iRV2 by "experts" like "Wild Card" will tell you exceeding 1200*F will destroy your engine. Good luck never going above 1200*F. But the EGT gage will demonstrate the importance of keeping RPM's high in high-load conditions. Years ago, I ran TWO 14 AWG, 7-conductor cables from the engine compartment to the instrument panel and terminated each end in barrier terminal strips. That certainly simplifies adding electrical accessories.

I replaced my original Delco starter with the correct Denso. HUGE improvement in cranking speed, AND, with a MEASURED reduction in the cranking current. At the same time, I replaced my 8D battery with two relocated Group 31 batteries relocated to a new tray on the driver side. This allowed me to change my battery trays to allow installation of (8) 6V batteries that were one size taller (same footprint) than the original GC2 (T-105) batteries. Replacement batteries were T-125 (T-145?) Total AH for house batteries after the change was approximately 1000 AH.

Let me set this straight from the beginning---I am NOT a detailing guru. I am NOT offering top-notch professional advice. I only stopped using dishwashing detergent as my soap a few years ago. I DO NOT hand wash with a microfiber mitt. I use one of the extending flagged-tip brushes…still. But, I have learned a few things. Meguiar's Ultimate Wash & Wax has replaced Palmolive Oxy. The first time I tried the Meguiar’s product, I was immediately impressed. Yeah, I know…I’m the last fool to understand that dishwashing soap removes wax you tediously applied. But as the rashest of amateurs, let me add a couple of things I’ve learned. #1: Random Oribital polishers were a God-send to folks who do not have the skills of Z-Mike. In my experience, pure rotary polishers are ONLY for professionals. The slightest bit of too much pressure, too little compound or lubricant, or carelessness at an edge or corner, and you may have done irreparable damage. If you lift a RA polisher from the surface, and it will “run away” and even if re-contacting the paint isn’t catastrophic, you will sling compound EVERYWHERE. I love my COLLECTION of Random-Orbital polishers. I still use them. But now I have something better. #2: For an AMATEUR who still likes polishing his coach, but finds it a daunting task for a 75 yo man, I found the ERGO Geared Orbital Polisher to speed up the process greatly. It is GEARED ORBITAL, meaning its orbit speed is fixed and will not “run away” if lifted off the paint surface. This makes its cutting action much faster, without sacrificing the protection of the orbital design. #3: Buy one assembly of scaffolding from Northern tool. It is much easier than using a ladder.

Looks great, Bob, Like everything you do.

Not trying to hijack this thread, but if you are anywhere close to Atlanta, GA, MTR Fleet Services in Cumming, GA is an EXCELLENT repair shop for just about ANYTHING large-vehicle related. Jason, the owner, is a friendly, compassionate fellow and an excellent diagnostician. Even Paul Whittle, the most DIY guy I know, takes his coach there for service.

Listen to Rick. He, like Tom Cherry, is a smart fellow.

Sometimes I feel like I am a spokesperson for Blue Sea. I don't mean to be. It is just such a simple, yet elegant, solution for a long-standing problem. And is applicable to sooo many cases of charging problems. Just buy the damned thing, install it according to the instructions, and kiss all your alternator interchangeability problems goodbye. The BIRD is an unnecessarily complex system that can be so easily replaced with the Blue Sea ML-ACR.

The ML-ACR is just a heavy-duty switch which when ANY charging source is available connects both battery bank's charging cables together...IFF the engine batteries have risen to a suitable charge level. It does have voltage sensing circuitry to not connect the house batteries to the engine batteries until the engine batteries have risen to a suitable charge level. This is a simplification, but you essentially tie the output of your alternator PLUS the charging cable going to your engine batteries to the SAME large post on the ML-ACR. Therefore, your alternator is ALWAYS charging the engine batteries, regardless of the switching state of the ML-ACR. The HOUSE battery charging cable connects to the engine batteries when the engine batteries have risen to a suitable level. The ML-ACR has some sophisticated features that will isolate sensitive electronics during engine starting, for instance. But most folks do not need those extra features. You just want a simple, near-bulletproof system that never fails you. Blue Sea's warranty says it all--"We guarantee this device for as long as you own it." PERIOD. No, I have no affiliation with Blue Sea. But their products are known for their impeccable design and construction quality in every sector of the marine environment.

The things everyone needs to grasp are that: 1) "Wandering", defined as you holding the steering wheel PERFECTLY still on a long, straight smooth road and your coach drifts slightly left...then slightly right...constantly, requiring you to make a steering correction. THAT is wandering. 2) Wandering is caused by ONE AND ONLY ONE THING--your coach is going in EXACTLY the direction its wheels are pointed. It doesn't magically go to the left when the wheels are pointed to the right. And unfortunately, the Roadmaster chassis design allows its wheels to be constantly changing direction with ZERO steering input. There is nothing magic about caster, camber, toe-in, steering stabilizers or any other add-on "steering correction" device. It's just a simple, basic design flaw in the Roadmaster chassis. 3) To cure that wandering, you need to solve the problem of your wheels not staying pointed in the direction your steering wheel is pointed. 4) And for the love of all that is intelligent, GIVE UP THIS CRAZY FANTASY THAT A "SHOCK ABSORBER" (misnomer) CAN CONTRIBUTE TO KEEPING YOUR WHEELS HEADED IN ANY DIRECTION AND DIMINISH WANDERING. What does a shock do? It DAMPS VERTICAL motion (described by the silly word "porpoising"). It does NOTHING else. It CANNOT do anything else. If you do not have an engineering or technical background, you are going to fall for someone's "snake oil", and that's what shocks are to wandering. Any time someone reports an improvement in wandering due to changing shocks, the change is only between the ears of the poor bugger who just parted with an insane amount of money to purchase the latest "holy grail" shock. 5) And NO, a stiffer shock will NOT make your coach ride "smoother", much less cure its wandering. If your desire is to feel every tar strip you roll over, buy the stiffest shock you can find. It will rattle your teeth out, but your wandering will not be improved even microscopically...except between your ears. 6) And yes, I AM the crazy man who removed all (8) of his shocks both before and after installing a Watts link and rear cross bars. I did not have a pre-conceived notion of a result I wanted to conform to what I believed. I was a mechanical engineer seeking data points. The result--with NO shocks, the coach has less vertical damping. But did shocks, or no shocks, or mega-bucks shocks affect the wandering? No, not one IOTA. And anyone who understands the construction details of the Roadmaster chassis could see that. If the subassembly that holds your axles is squirming around under you, how can you possibly expect it to NOT wander? If you have read this long rant, go back and reread #2. There is your answer. Stabilize your H-frame with and additional Panhard bar or a Watts link, plus rear cross-braces and your coach stops wandering. PERIOD. Sorry if I have offended anyone. That is not my intention.

MTR Fleet Services in Cumming, GA was excellent for me to deal with when my ECM crapped out. Jason, the owner, is a most pleasant, honest young man who explains everything without BS. I would use them again any time! And I should also give thanks to Paul Whittle, who put me up for three weeks while the process of getting a replacement ECM drug on.

I will admit I have only skimmed this post, but here are some observations from experience. 1) If genny is running while driving, there is always a chance the "Alt Fail" light will come on. Shut of the genny or pull on the headlight switch and see if it goes off. 2) Rick (waterskier) is correct--Measure voltage AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS to determine whether that is the problem or not. 3) DUVAC will always be a PITA, as almost NO ONE understands why a "generic" alternator will not work with a Sollid State Isolator. Install the ML-ACR and it won't matter WHAT alternator you use--It will work. Until the DUVAC alternator is replaced, you will always be at the mercy of mechanics who do not understand what the remote sensing is for...and will almost invariably hook up the new alternator incorrectly. With the ML-ACR, even a Klutz mechanic will get it right. There are many more good reasons for the ML-ACR changeover, but precluding problems with needing a very specific alternator will be eliminated.

I suffered the wandering on my 1993 Monaco Dynasty. After a three-hour drive, I was worn out. My first attempts at solving the problem involved only front and rear X-bars...that were only 1/2" diameter, front and rear. The coach went from a "road-wild" beast to a two-finger driver, in spite of passing tractor-trailers. 1993 was the last year (for Dynasty) that X-bars could be installed on the FRONT. All subsequent years placed the generator in a position that precluded X-bars...hence the idea of a front Watts link. I am very thankful to the folks who purchased my "prototype" Watts links and helped me solve that ubiquitous problem. I sold them at (less) than my cost of making them, and never imagined making them a commercial product. Thank you, Mike Hughes, for taking over this project and doing so well at adapting it to more coaches than I imagined. I hope you have made at least a modest profit off this low-volume, low-demand product. Not everything one does has to have a profit motive.