Dennis Y

No, the cable was fine, I wanted side view cameras. I have the monitor wired to the blinkers so it goes full screen side view in the direction of the turn. My old camera and monitor are available for cost of shipping unless you are in the Seattle area.

I replaced my system two years ago with a 10" 4-channel color system, two wired side view cameras, and wireless near and far rear view cameras. I bought it as individual parts from Amazon. I used the existing wires to power the wireless transmitters for the rear view cameras. The wireless transmitters use the same frequencies as Wi-Fi so I do experience a little bit of interference, but not normally on the road. Dennis Y. '04 Ambassador

What are my other options?

Mine does not look like it can be lowered. It is setting in an angle iron frame with a couple of bars below the tank. Everything appears to be welded.

I discovered that my fuel tank is leaking. The leak is cracked at the toe of the weld attaching one of the angle iron mounting tabs. I am thinking about removing the tank to have it welded. Has anyone done this? Is there anything I should know? How much does it weigh, can two people man-handle a mostly empty tank out of the drivers side? Dennis Yeats 2004 HR Ambassador

I have cut halfway through the closet wall with an oscillating multi-tool (interior panel and two layers of styrofoam) . I am hesitant to attack what remains with a saws-all. Does anyone know if there is anything attached to the outside of the wall at the top center of the closet the would be damaged by the saws-all. There is a cavity at least 8" deep between the rear cap and the rear closet wall. I have not found a way to peak into the cavity between the rear cap and the the back closet wall.

I am in the process of replacing the rear camera in my 04 HR Ambassador. I need to cut an opening through the back wall of the closet to access the wires in the end cap. Does anyone have suggestions for how to cut the opening and what is the construction of the wall like. I don't want to cut anything that is not repairable. Thanks,

You are correct. If you are sure you voltage from at the switch from the headlight circuit then your problem is less likely in a Monaco fuse block.

Joe, I had a similar problem a month ago. I lost the head lights and the emergency brake chime was sounding when in gear and e-brake off. Other forums recommended replacing the head light switch and e-brake pressure switch. The inexpensive 1960s vintage GM headlight switch came first so I replaced it. Headlights still out. I found a u-tube video on troubling the headlight switch. The headlight switch has two power sources, parking lights and headlights. I determined that there was no voltage on the headlight power pin. The headlight fuse in the Monaco 2 fuse block was not blown. Out of desperation, I decided to check all of the connections to Monaco 2 fuse block which required removing the screws attaching it and the cable bundles to the bulkhead below the main fuse panel. I scraped some congealed grease from the four power pins on the top of the fuse block, reset all of the other connectors, and removed and reset all of the fuses and relays. After putting everything back together, BOTH PROBLEMS SOLVED!! I have since gone back and cleaned all of the external connections to both Monaco 1 and 2 with contact cleaner and lightly greased the pins with dielectric grease. Hopefully, this will alleviate my other phantom electrical issues like the wiper running without being switch on and the exhaust brakes causing the tach and speedo to go to zero and dash alarms. Dennis Y 2004 HR Ambassador/2005 Jeep LJ Rubicon