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waterskier_1

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  1. waterskier_1's post in Dash upholstered button missing was marked as the answer   
    Any good upholstery shop will have the basic "button" sans the vinyl.  They may have the vinyl in a close color, but slightly different grain that will work.  I paid less than $5 for 2 buttons - I supplied the vinyl. 
      - Rick N 
  2. waterskier_1's post in Need to add a dedicated 15 Amp circuit to support TRUE Induction cooktop. 2002 Windsor. Can it be done safely? was marked as the answer   
    Look at SOOW wire.  You should be able to use Romex from the breaker panel to the J- Box on the coach side.  Then SOOW between the J- Boxes (flex connection between coach and slide).  Optionally, you could use SOOW for the entire run. 
      - Rick N 
  3. waterskier_1's post in Roadmaster chassis type was marked as the answer   
    According to the Monaco Brochure (attached) you have a "Semi-Monocoque Tubular Steel Frame" with 8 Air Bags.  This is often referred to as an "S-Series" Chassis.  It differs from the RR8S chassis which is a Raised Rail 8 Air bag Side Radiator design.  The body structure of the Raised Rail (which refers to the steel frame) is mounted (bolted or welded) to the frame.  The S-Series the body structure is part of the frame (kind of like Uni-Body autos) which can not be separated from the frame (and still have anything left).  It is the top of the line of the Road Master Chassis that Monaco built.
      -Rick N.
    2000_Dynasty.pdf
  4. waterskier_1's post in 2006 Dynasty - Starter tests positive but won't crank in front nor back. was marked as the answer   
    I have more questions than answers.  First, are you troubleshooting a "Does Not Crank" issue, or a "Does Not Run" (meaning it cranked and maybe started to run, and then stopped) issue.  I read the post as Does Not Crank.  Therefore, we should not worry about keeping it running, just yet.  
    I don't believe that you have posted any wiring diagrams that match what you actually have.  Even the Relay Wiring Diagram doesn't match - the Fuses in the diagram call for 25 Amp, but what you actually have calls for 20 Amp.  
    The Start Solenoid Relay (seems redundant terminology, since a Solenoid is a type of Relay) is the Omicron Relay on that board.  It appears that this is the only starter solenoid or relay.  
    I suspect you have already checked, but what are the state of the LEDs on that board?  When you turn the key to Ignition, the Yellow IGN RELAY Signal LED should light, indicating that the relay board is receiving a signal to energize the IGN RELAY.  If so, and the board and relay are working properly, the Green Relay LED should light indicating that the relay is indeed energized.  This all needs to happen before it will crank.  Next, if the Transmission is in Neutral, and all other Safety lockouts (if any) are good, the Relay board should get a voltage to the NEUT/SAFETY relay SIGNAL and that LED should light.  Then, that signal should energize the NEUT/SIGNAL Relay, and the RELAY LED should light.  If all the above happens, then the circuitry is set.  Next, when the key is turned to the START (Crank) Position, the Yellow LED under the START SOL RLY should light indicating the relay board has received the voltage from the Key switch.  Then the START SOL RLY should energize, lighting the Green RELAY LED and supplying voltage to the Starter.  If either Red LED is lit, that means the associated fuse is bad.
    If I try to rationalize the wiring diagram with your specific board, I would guess that the 3 Conductor "Header 3" is the LED lights power source.  LEDs don't run directly off 12 Volts DC, they are lower voltage.  So, the Ignition source (12 VDC) comes in that header, and the MOSFET just the the right (Black and silver device with 3 leads soldered to the relay board) creates the correct voltage for LEDs, and the exits on one of the header pins, and the third connection (pin) is for ground.  This circuit is completely independent of the rest of the circuity on the relay board.  The 4 Conductor "Header 4" has the wiring for the previously described Ignition, neutral/safety and Start circuitry.  One wire, likely the heavy black wire on pin 4, is the wire to the Starter.  Another wire, likely on pin 3, is the signal from up front that says the Transmission is in neutral (and any other safety that might be required to be met before the starter can engage).  Pin 2 likely carries crank or start signal (voltage) coming from the Key Switch up front.  Lastly, the yellow wire on pin 1 is likely the ignition voltage from the Key Switch up front.  The two Switches shown in the wiring diagram are the Front-Off-Rear and the Start Switch located just to the right of the NEUT/SAFETY Relay (likely mounted to the Relay board itself - though I can't say for sure from the picture.  
    I hope this analysis might help you in troubleshooting.  Just remember that both the IGN Relay and the NEUT/SAFETY relay need to be energized before the START SOL RLY can be energized.
      -Rick N.
  5. waterskier_1's post in why is my engine hot and it hasn't run for days? was marked as the answer   
    The "Wait to Start" functions similarly to the glow plugs you are thinking about.  The block heater is a 110 VAC heater that is either in the engine coolant system or the engine oil system.  If you go to your main power panel, you should have a circuit breaker labeled "Block Heater".  Turn that breaker off, and see it that makes any difference.  That breaker is connected to an outlet in the engine compartment (not sure where it is physically in a rear radiator coach, but someone should be able to tell you).  The block heater has a 110 VAC line cord, sometimes called a "pig tail" that is plugged into that outlet.  On some coaches (my 1997 Dynasty, as example) that outlet is hot if the circuit breaker is turned on.  Most newer coaches have a switch on the dash, labeled Block Heater, that energizes a relay which in turn supplies 110 VAC to that outlet, so you can leave the block heater plugged in all the time and turn it on and off from the dash.  
      -Rick N.
    Colorado Springs, CO
  6. waterskier_1's post in Tire balance Beads? was marked as the answer   
    I've used Dana Beads (see Richard's post above) since 2012 - over 10 years - on two different Monaco's.  As mentioned above, you MUST use the larger beads on our size tires.  The smaller beads were developed for motorcycles and cars, specifically where the owner didn't want to dismount the tire.  They are designed to be inserted through the valve stem (core removed).  But then special valve cores must be used so they don't plug with the beads.  There are NOT recommended to be used on our size tires.  See https://www.innovativebalancing.com/chart.htm#CommercialChart  for the correct weight for each tire.  
    Regarding capturing the beads for reuse when replacing the tire, I've had this done 3 times.  Once when I changed all the tires since they aged out, one time when I had a flat, and one time when I "curbed" a tire.  All were done by the same company, but the last two were done by their mobile tech, onsite.  In all cases, the tech knew about the beads, and all carry a compressed air operated vacuum for the purpose.  They ensure the bag is empty before each use.  The vacuum the beads into the bag, when they dump into the new tire before sealing the bead.  I had concerns raised by people who haven't used them, but postulated that the beads could not be recovered, so I bought an extra bag (sized for the largest weight) to carry in case of a tire failure on the road.  I have been carrying that bag for over 11 years never needing it.  
    I have read of other manufacturer (or unknown manufacturer) beads that clump, break down or otherwise cause problems, but never those from the Gold Standard Dana Beads.  Make sure you know what the tire dealer is selling, and that he uses the correct weight for the tire size and position (singe or dual).
      -Rick N.
    currently in Tucson, AZ
  7. waterskier_1's post in Trying to figure out part number for hydraulic fan motor was marked as the answer   
    I replaced the Hydraulic Fan Motor on my 97 Dynasty C8.3 several years ago.  From looking at the partial number on the motor, it looks similar to mine.  
    I have questions though.  First, you say there are two PUMPS attached to their own fan blade.  I think you mean MOTORS, not PUMPS.  The Pumps take power (likely from a belt driven off your crankshaft on the engine) and create hydraulic pressure.  The Motor takes the hydraulic pressure to do work - in this case rotation of the fan.  Did you miss-speak, or are you indeed talking about PUMPS?  Second, you say you have two (2) each of these Pumps (Motors).  I only had one, which drove the only fan blade in the radiator stack (engine coolant, transmission coolant, hydraulic coolant and Air Conditioning Condenser).  I have some data on the Motors.  I was going to replace mine, but found a place that sold a reseal kit so I had that done.  I believe you have a Sauer Danfoss motor in that picture.  The whole model number is likely:
      SNM2 / 17 CI 06 RTA1/5D.  
    If you like, I can send you a Sauer Danfoss Technical Information Model Code Description that I found online in my search.  I think that White House Products is the likely manufacturer of replacement pumps.  They are located in Great Britain.  Their phone number is +44 1475 742500.  Their website is https://www.whitehouseproductsltd.com/
    Please confirm that this is a Motor, not a Pump.  Look for the leading portion of the Model Number and see if it matches what I wrote.  Also, can you confirm that you have two separate motors and fans?  I've never seen that, within the same cooling "stack".
      -Rick N.
    currently in Tucson, AZ
     
  8. waterskier_1's post in System Heat where does it get the heat? was marked as the answer   
    I'll add that the "System Heat" runs off 12 VDC, and draws up to 30-Amps.  If the main engine alternator is not running, you should be shore power or solar (daytime) or it will quickly drain your battery. 
      - Rick N 
  9. waterskier_1's post in 2005 Monaco Executive Electrical Issue was marked as the answer   
    When you use an adapter (dog bone) to go from 50-Amp to 30-Amp or 20-Amp service, the adapter should combine the two 50 legs into one.  That way, when using 30-Amp or 20-Amp service which only has one leg, both power.  I suspect an adapter has failed. 
      - Rick N 
  10. waterskier_1's post in Propane leak locating was marked as the answer   
    I doubt you have standing pilot lights on your furnace or water heater.  Most all are electronic DSI (Direct Spark Ignition).
      - Rick N 
  11. waterskier_1's post in 2003 power status meters was marked as the answer   
    Also, that current spec is at a specific voltage.  As the actual voltage goes up from the spec, the current will go down - as the voltage goes down, the current will go up. 
    Also remember that the accuracy of the readouts (meters, either analog or digital) that are used in our coaches are likely +/- 5% at best, possibly +/- 10%.  They are not laboratory gradecalibrated instruments.  At 5% of 110VAC that is +/- 5.5 Volts, meaning the actual voltage could be 104.5 - 115.5 VAC on your meter.  My recommendation is to select one meter to use, and then compare readings only on that meter.  Having 3-4 different meters, all reading differently, but all likely within tolerance, is just too confusing for many. 
     - Rick N 
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