James Weir

See vision is the rear camera, side cameras and an inside camera near the windshield accessed for viewing via Aladdin. Several automatic features activate with turn signals or when reverse is selected. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/866775/Monaco-Dynasty-2006.html?page=36

I replaced XZA2s (drive & steer) with X Coach Zs a little over a year ago. Moved 2 year old XZA2s from front axle to tag. So far I like the X Coach's better than the XZA, especially with regard to handling. I experienced an immediate improvement with directional stability, far less steering inputs required to keep the coach between the lines. As per Jeff's comment I too found the XZAs a little squirmy on the front and any cross wind or uneven surface required more attention and inputs to keep things on the straight and narrow.

I don't have a link for the stainless blades but I did replace the impellor and gasket on my box mount Sanicon in my 2007 Dynasty. The impellor and gasket were Thetford part #70475. The unit inside the box was labeled Shurflo and matches up to a Shurflo 62-5800, The Shurflo gasket/impellor kit is part # 94-571-00.

I have a 2007 Dynasty with a lift system that appears to be very similar to yours. On mine there is a gear box and shaft on the front left side (drivers) looking forward out the windshield. Mine is tucked up neatly and at first is not obvious. That shaft moves slightly toward and away from the gear box, approximately 1/4" travel. If I recall correctly pushing the shaft toward the gear box/motor engages the drive assembly, pulling away from the gear box disengages the assembly. You may try moving the shaft back and forth to ensure it is fully engaged. Disengaging the gear box allows manual turning of the shaft allowing lowering or raising the lift. It's a slow process to manually move the lift but can be done. James 2007 Dynasty

11163020 is the complete assembly. I did find separate part numbers for the electrical and mechanical portions of the complete unit but neither were available at the time. I think the electrical component was out of stock at the time and the valve portion was unavailable to me for some reason or other. The part # I have are (11163018 - Electrical) - (11163030 - Valve) .

I bought the 1091140 controller from Berendsen Fluid Power. https://www.bfpna.com/ Jay, I just checked my notes and the part number 1091140 was the original controller and was replaced by part # 11163020. I purchased a 11163020 in January 2019 for $1300 CDN. It is a direct replacement for 1091140 that took about 15 minutes to change out and has been working flawlessly ever since. The one difference I found is there is an additional wiring harness on the new controller that I did not use. I believe the additional harness is for diagnostics but I didn't investigate further and it remains tie wrapped to the lot to keep it tucked up and out of the way. James - 2007 Dynasty ISL400

I bought the 1091140 controller from Berendsen Fluid Power. https://www.bfpna.com/

I have a 2007 Dynasty with tag and the fuses for the seats are located in the front run box. There are circuit breakers for the seats in addition to the fuses and on my rig they are located in the front run box at the top. I had an issue with the passenger seat and it turned out to be the circuit breaker being badly corroded. I've attached a schematic for the seat. Jim 07 Dynasty Schematic - Seats (1).pdf

I have an 07 Queen IV with the overhead TV. On mine there is a locking collar near the output shaft of the motor. That collar slides back and forth parallel to the shaft engaging and disengaging the motor to the lift mechanism. In the disengaged position you can manually lower the TV by turning the shaft. Perhaps the collar has moved to the disengaged position allowing gravity and time to slowly lower your TV. If your mechanism is similar maybe try sliding the collar back and forth and try the lift motor again. If I recall sliding then collar towards the motor is the engaged position. jim 07 Dynasty

Your welcome Tim. I had a similar decision to make when I replaced my front overhead TV. There was a 15 pin video cable running from a cabinet near the kitchen table to the TV. I needed the space through a couple of ports to run new cables. In the end I just took it out of the TV mount area and coiled it up. I doubt I will ever use it but, you never know.. Remember the dullest pencil is better than the sharpest mind. Maybe just label it and forget it if it's not compromising your new install. Jim 2007 Dynasty Queen IV

Looks like a Motosat dish control cable.

You're welcome Mike. The drain on the AquaHot is likely a 1/2" PEX push fitting. If you can get a short length of pex pipe and adapt that to a length of garden hose that should allow you to connect the AquaHot and the drill pump. Pump out the glycol to service and reverse the pump connections to fill the boiler via the drain. That worked well for me. Make sure the cap is off before starting to pump the glycol out, it works much better that way. 🙂 DAMHIK An if the drain valve is the plastic PEX fitting you may want to change that out while the fluid is gone. The valve and the pieces between the valve and the tank were leaking. The way I read it was it's already leaking or about to. Mine was leaking. The drain valve assembly is available on Roger's site or you can make one up with plumbing parts for about 1/4 of the cost. On my unit the float on the low level switch was broken off and the leads wired together on the inside of the boiler. Looked good but was a hazard at best. You could test the low limit switch while you're emptying the boiler or remove for inspection. They're a bit expensive to order on spec.

On my unit ( AHE-100-04S) the limit thermostats (ELE-HLT-322) unscrew from a mount on the boiler sidewall. No fluid needs to be drained from the boiler. A normal socket works fine for removal as you can cut the wires to get the socket in place. Installation requires a socket and ratchet will a center hole or a modified deep socket with a slot in the sidewall to pass the leads through when installing. Replacing the limit thermostats is not difficult once you get to them. The main control thermostat and low fluid float valve do require draining fluid from the boiler. On my unit that was about 2/3 or approximately 10 gallons. Removing and replacing the fluid with a drill pump via the main drain works fine. I'm wondering if you don't have two issues. The high limit switch for sure as it crumbled in your hand (like mine did as well). But the limit switch only comes into play when you have a problem, like perhaps the main control thermostat. My unit started acting up and I replaced the limit switches after resetting the diesel side too many times and it failed. I didn't have the overflowing problem but once the high limit thermostat triggered I would have to reset it. This eventually lead me to the main control thermostat.

I have a 2007 Dynasty with the AHE-100-04S Aqua-Hot system. There are two high limit thermostats on the unit, one each for diesel and electric. If the high limit (220F) for the unit has been reached the thermostat triggers and cuts the heat source. There is a reset button that can be pushed in to reset the circuit but it usually is for restoring service because the high limit has been reached. If the thermostat has failed "on" I don't think a reset will help. On my unit the high limit thermostats are the same part number (ELE-HLT-322) and are available on Roger Berke's site.