woodylmiller

A note of thanks to Frank. Actually another thanks. Smart Wheel is back! The 5vdc power supply did it. A note on the Jake Brake. I lost mine a few years back. Turned out it was a master switch on the Kongsberg, two switches as I recall. Cummin's Northwest (I believe that's the name) worked on this for me. Never fixed it. They said it couldn't be fixed. The jake could be hard wired they thought but did not know for sure at a cost of about $5,000. Probably around $8,000 now days. For those that may be tempted to use this Cummin's Coach Care shop, consider I will never have this shop change a tire for me. EVERYTHING this shop ever worked on fell apart, broke or quit working and I had to have all those items fixed by independent truck repair shops. Worst example; old exhaust pipe was crushed, hat tip to Monaco for routing the pipe beneath the oil pan thereby zero gound clearance, the new pipe fell off in Dallas on I-35. So I've paid double for everything the Cummin's shop in Spokane "fixed". They also killed my new Trojan 8D batteries, 4 of them. Thanks guys. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Everything seems to be working again. Go figure. No idea what was going on. Radiator is now hot, supply and return hose hot and under pressure. Maybe just the fact of taking everything apart including removing the water pump was what was missing. Installed a temp gauge to the system so I can monitor the gen from now on while it's running. Strange that there is no gen status lights/gauges to provide current conditions. The gen had stopped running at some point, I didn't notice the light on the switch was off, so I had no idea; overheat, fuel problem or did it just decided to quit. A water temp gauge will help me keep track of what the gen is doing. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Tested thermostat and it opens and closes. Removed water pump, looks fine to me. Put things back together and filled with water through the thermostat housing. Ran and I got some overflow from the tank, but very little compared to before. But now I can feel the hot water going through the supply and return hoses to the pump and there is heat on the radiator. So a complete drain now and refill with coolant and hope. My guess at this point was a serious air lock preventing proper amount of coolant in the system. Strange, but what else is new? Every bone in my body aches from all the crawling into and out of that little cubby to work on the generator. Hopefully just a few more in and outs and I'm done with that. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

10K gen. Shut down the other day. Not completely sure it was a hi temp shut off. But there was some coolant leak when I restarted. Didn't seem like an overheating issue on the gen. Got home and started looking for leaks. The leaks turned out to be the cap on the overflow tank and also the drain tube from the tank. The cap's O ring was shot, so I replaced that. I replaced the radiator cap and went from 13 lbs to a 16 lbs cap. Pulled the fill tube out and held up high to fill with coolant. Ran gen and watched after a few minutes the level of coolant in the overflow begin to rise and then overflow throught the tube but no longer from the cap. When the gen cools ALL coolant is sucked back into the engine. Today I decided to not refill the coolant from the last overflow, maybe there was just too much coolant? Doesn't seem possible, but who knows. Ran the gen with the overflow tank empty. Same thing, after running the coolant began to fill and over flow the tank again. My next guess is the thermostat is not opening. With the engine hot and the overflow tank full of hot coolant I felt for heat on the radiator surface and it was cool compared to the rest of the gen. Having some issues finding a good coolant flow chart to see which hoses to what. On the thermostat housing is a larger hose, 1 1/4 - 1 1/2" hose, which I believe is the return from the radiator or most likely the supply for the radiator since it would be a gravity flow in that direction. Not sure. I had Cummin's do the the 1000 hour coolant system service, that was around 400 hours ago. Have no issues with the gen except for the lift pump and a bad connector. Where to buy reasonably priced parts? Cummins/Onan is a ripoff. Looks like they want $75 for a thermostat. Bullcrap! Anyone ever have this problem? I know that during a fill you have to lift the lift tube/radiator cap as high as possible, and I did that. I seems to me there has to be a flow restriction somewhere. Not a loss of system pressure from the cap, causing high water temps so maybe the thermo is not opening? One other thing. I do not have a actual heat gauge for the gen. Looks like just a high temp cut out sending unit on the thermo housing. Anyone ever add a gauge to their gen? Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

We have not been to a RV show in some years. Last time we went we saw the crap on display and could not believe that they actually had high end Tiffin's with such poor quality builds on display. Walked through a new bus, 650 Cummins, so it was not cheap. But the quality control on the interior finishes was something I would have expected to see in a van conversion, no offense to van conversions. None of the cabinets were plumb and aligned properly. Just garbage. So even though we have the dreaded Kongsberg multiplex, we are keeping our Dynasty. There is no substitute for quality. Talking with a former Monaco employee in Coburg, he said they don't make em like this anymore. Keep this one and fix what breaks. He's 100% correct. Worse than the Tiffin we looked at was Winnie's top of the line Grand Tour, which they no longer make. Everything that was not welded had fallen apart or broke. Just really more garbage. All these models were circa 2018/19. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty (she's a beauty and we're keeping her)

Thank you much. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

One last question, I hope. For the supply voltage, 12vdc to 5vdc, does the power to feed the power supply need to be switched? or can it be a constant "on" supply? From the picture it looks like it is a constant "on" for the supply voltage; 12vdc. Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Thank you Brett for your answer about my wiring question on the power supply. Glad to see this topic going. Especially since I have the dreaded Kongsberg. Everything has been able to be fixed so far. Kevin in Coburg is very helpful on these matters but it's bee hard talking to him since REV seems to be guarding the techs and not letting them get on the phone much anymore. Thanks to everyone who contibutes to this topic. I'm sure there are many of us that can benefit from the discussions and solutions. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

I have the 12vdc to 5vdc device. For the installation I have a question. My wires are labled J126 and J127. These are the correct wires, correct? Is there a need to place a load across the wires coming from the CCM after splicing the power supply to feed the smartwheel? Just curious what the CCM reaction might be to those wires being cut. Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Thank you Frank for your help. Sounds like that 5VDC might be my solution to fix the weirdness coming from the FRB and Kongsberg. I'm ordering the power supply from Amazon. Cheap enough to have on hand none the less. From the picture showing the added power supply I'm a little lost as to where to terminate the wires. Can you point me to the schematic which would show what to do. And to make sure, the J26 connects to the positive side of the power supply? From the pictures it looks like these wires are going/coming from the CCM, is this correct? I have gone through all my prints/info and have almost nothing on the smart wheel. So all help is very appreciated. It sure seems like my issues are the same as all the others; wipers, cruise control, and so on. One last thing. My wires are marked J126 and J127, at least to my eyes that's what appears. The J126 is marked smartwheel +5vdc, so I'm guessing these are the wires. Thanks, Woody MIller 09 Dynasty

Hey Frank, Woody here, you talked about a smart wheel module. That is available for my 09 Dynasty? I'm having some issues with my smart wheel. Wipers acting up, would not shut off unless I disconnected the battery by the switch in the battery compartment. Still in snow and cold here so I have not gone out to suffer through the cold to troubleshoot yet. Spring is near and I'll be getting back at dealing with the issues, also the cruise control decided it would act up as well. Back to the Kongsberh issue, I got a bid from Cummins, not that I would recommend them for this kind of work, but they said about 5 grand to hard wire for the jake break. Fortunately I found the REV guys in Coburg and they got my system up and running. But it was not the CCM, just switches. I think I have a power issue at the moment. Just need some warm weather to get me out there and mess around. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

We have Starlink at the house and gave up on Dish. We are going to southern Arizona next winter. My plan is to move my Starlink with me. But, Starlink is not available yet where we are going. They say it's coming this year. We'll see. It was a long wait to get it for the house. Starling is a blessing for us since we live very north, almost in Canada, and there is no cell service here. Starling gives us internet and cell service via wifi calling. We did not save any money due to all the add on's for the different streaming services. If Starlink does become available in Arizona where we are heading it will be another 25 bucks a month to move the dish temporarily. We'll pay it since we no longer have any satellite service. Nice job on that MOFI install. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

I have the coach, 09 Dynasty Regal, parked and plugged into a 50 amp source. Parked for the winter, and it's cold. Using electric elements to maintain hight 40 to low 50 degrees. Noticed that the fans on the heat exchangers were not working, the idiot light on the galley touch pad was not lit up. Checked the multiplex in the rear wardrobe closet. Could not find any problems there. Did I mention it's cold? We are in single digits so I'm not spending much time outside. Using schematic #38071413 to troubleshoot. On the drawing under the picture of the galley blower there is a ?? where most of the wiring enters and exits coming from and going to, if that makes sense. I can't find that location. The non-latching relays are in the wardrobe closet. The 25 amp breaker/resettable fuse is also in the closet. There is a relay inside broken lines, meaning to me it's a remote location. The relay is wired from the Relay Module "F", A-H blwr on-signal, to this relay. The relay is fed from the same source as the A-H 25 amp brkr. I can see the 14ga wire but it disappears in with a thousand other wires, leaves the closet overhead into the ceiling. So where in the H E double hocky sticks are these connections?? These connections are inside a solid line box on the drawing with all the fan terminals. There is also what appears to be a cable labeled Aqua Hot supplier harness on one side. Are these connections on/near the boiler? I got the fans on by turning off the electric and turning of the diesel. This got the fans working as well as the idiot light on the touch pad. I turned on the electric and then turned off the diesel and the fans continued to run. I don't consider this strange since I've gotten used to the electronics doing all kinds of strange things since I've owned it. I have the dreaded Kongsberg Roadside Multiplex, nothing is too strange for this thing. Pretty sure the heating is not part of that though. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynast Regal IV

With regards to the headlight replacements, I got mine of all places at WalMart. They were online and were shipped to my home. No one else came close to their price and the lights really do update the appearance of the coach. Installation was a real pain however. Just pay close attention to how the originals are installed, which way the bolts are installed for example.

I have the same system. Something allows going on with it. My air leaks change with outside temps. My aux pump runs more in cold weather. I have fixed leaks, replaced the pump, re-plumbed the factory set up which caused the pump to never shut off, first clue is previous owner pulled the fuse for the pump and it laying at the bottom of the FRB. Fix the leaks as you find them, move the pressure switch up as high as possible. I also shut the system off after leveling. In spite of all this, I still get a leak here and there and have to re-level from time to time. I did install a switch in the cockpit to turn the pump off at night. I carry spare connectors and tubing with me to fix leaks on the road. If you can travel with a really short skinny mechanic with you that's a plus. In the front I can put the gen out, jack the front up and block and sit in that "pocket" where the gen was and get to a lot of the system. We did travel about 2,000 miles with the control pad beeping the whole way due to a bad controller, that was fun. It is tough finding shops to work on the Roadmaster Chassis, but it's nothing special concerning the air system, just compressors, hoses, valves and connectors. Any truck shop can fix the air leaks if they'll work on it. Good luck. By the way, the RV repair shops are no better at fixing air leaks than a truck shop and I have found the truck shops do a better job and at a more reasonable cost. After Cummin's Coach Care gets done making love to me, I'll get about 1,000 miles before I have to find an independent truck shop to fix what Cummins did or didn't do. Keep that in mind. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty