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    Trek 31SBD
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    RVer since the 1970s. Trek owner since 2014. Previous MH was a 2001 Residency 37'.

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  1. My previous MH which I had for 16 years had vinyl graphics on it and they still looked great when I sold it without a sign of cracking or crazing. Compare that with a friend living in Las Vegas who had the same MH but used a different product (and swore by it) than I did. Both of out units sat outside year around. I know it gets a lot hotter in LV than StL but doesn't really explain the difference in the way our MHs looked. He used 303 Protectorant. I've always used Protect-All. It kept the gelcoat looking nice as well as the graphics. The rubber trim around the windows still looked
  2. “Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world. ” ― Archimedes
  3. The lugs on my Ford f53 chassis only need to go to 150-165 ft lbs so I haven't tried at "torque multiplier" but I've heard others talk about them. Check them out on Amazon and eBay. Maybe someone on here will recommend their favorite. They come with different ratios and I can't find their capabilities listed in the offerings. I don't talk "nm" (newton-meters) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Torque-Multiplier-Set-Wrench-Lug-Nut-Labor-Saving-Lugnut-Remover-Case/353145874077?hash=item523922669d:g:6LQAAOSwnDJe2con
  4. On my Ford chassis with WheelMaster wheel covers, I wanted the best extensions available and bought the WheelMaster SS braided extensions. Both the longer ones for the inner duals failed! Inside the decorative SS braids is a plastic tube that can go bad without any notice. After forcing my hand through the handhole to check the pressures and install my TPMS sensors for awhile, I looked around and ended up going with WheelMaster's #8006 2 ply Goodyear rubber hose extensions. In my opinion, they are a much more reliable solution to extending the valve stems for the inner tire than anything e
  5. There used to be a fellow I'd see at Quartzsite and other RV shows/rallies I think went by the name of "The Water Filter Man" (or Store). I don't believe he's around anymore. He made hoses in custom lengths (on the spot) or had standard lengths premade. He crimped on real brass connectors. It turned out the original hose he used contained some harmful compounds and the manufacturer reformulated it to meet today's NSF standards for potable water. I liked it his hoses so much, I bought a roll (It comes in 300ft lengths) and after using 100ft for my purposes shared the rest with friends.
  6. I've been using one of these antennas for years. A suction cup held it on the window all this time. I used it with my Verizon "JetPack" for a couple of years before switching to FMCA TechConnect plan through Sprint that is a truly unlimited hotspot for $50/month (can be interrupted to reduce the costs when not being used). The only reason it slows down is if the tower is overloaded and that hasn't been a problem for me. I'm much happier with it than I was with the Verizon service. I routinely maxed out the allotted 15Gb in less than a week with Verizon's so called "Unlimited" plan. So fa
  7. You can't put all the blame on the user either. Because I've had my Avanta II for many years, I took it to the Blue Ox service center at Quartzsite and few years ago to have them "tune it up". All they did was replace the plastic/nylon washers and tighten the bolts. For that, they charged $35. I was extremely disappointed in the service but never complained - just paid the bill, grabbed my towbar and left. They never mentioned a word about sending it back to the factory for the proper maintenance it needed. The bolts wear as do the holes they go through leaving a lot of "play" after a fe
  8. I don't know how many of the Avail style towbars have failed similarly to the one in these images (it appears at least these two that ended up on IRV2) but if I owned one of these older style bars, I'd be upgrading it to the newer style ASAP. You can buy the hitch connector assembly ($322.39 but hey, you get free shipping) from eTrailer.com that replaces the point of failure shown in these images. At what point should Blue Ox stand up and issue a recall? https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Blue-Ox/84-0186.html
  9. It's been a few years now but when I saw the propane truck in the street filling a neighbor's residential tank in a residential neighborhood, I asked the driver to top off the tank in my MH. The tank connection is the same. I was told he couldn't do it. He said he was not permitted to fill tanks on RVs. I called the office seeking a waiver - no dice. It sounded like a different license was required or some legal reason why I was turned down. I live in St Louis County, Missouri. To me, it looks like the same truck filling tanks around the campgrounds I visit. As long as I've got electri
  10. Borrowing a picture from the IRV2 post, we see more detail here showing how the towbar "broke". The welds didn't fail after all. Clearly, the tabs were torn off the 2" receiver bar. Many of the images below are borrowed from IRV2. The person that posted this image thinks he can see rust (the red arrows) where the metal had been cracked before it sheared off (the green arrows). I've blown up his picture to try to see what he says is there. Comparing the picture above with the one below, it's hard for me to recognize them as the same towbar. The arrows sho
  11. Now that the towbar has been identified, here's a picture of what it looked like: It's a shame those welds broke. The more I look at the critical parts, that single bolt allowing the bar to twist looks like the weak link in the chain. I think I like the design of the Aventa II I have better but it still relies on the strength of a single 3/4" bolt to pull the towed. Seems like 10,000 lbs is a lot of weight for one 3/4" grade 5 bolt.
  12. I still don't understand exactly which part failed looking at the picture. DR4Film posted the picture upside down. The original image was laying on it's left side (see the car tire in the background). Below is an exploded view of an Aventa II Tow Bar. The image above doesn't look like it was the Aventa model though. I suspect the two plates were welded to the 2 inch box going into the receiver and that was the point of failure. #7 in the view below was not welded but the picture appears to be #11 with the two plates on either side. The two arms connect to #11.
  13. Did Monaco only make one model in 1986? How can anyone give advice to the OP without know what chassis he needs help with? The way I see it, more information is needed to give a good answer here.
  14. Sorry to hear replacing the solenoid didn't fix your problem. I found these cleaning instructions for the solenoid and figured I might as well post them for others reading this post.
  15. On my Trek, I have to "wake up" the horn every day when I'm driving or else it doesn't work when I need it. After hitting the horn button 5 or 10 times, it starts working and will give a blast every time I press the button. I suspect the solenoid valve is sticking. If I knew where it was, I'd try getting a little silicone in it's air line before replacing it. I guess moisture builds up inside the air line over the years and causes problems.
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