bobdinsmore

Thank you very much to everyone for sharing all this important information. As a result, when on the road, I now will have my water hose connected to the water inlet valve in the wet bay, with the water pump turned off.

After replacing the shear pin about three times, I switched to a Grade 5 bolt, know ing that I may be running the risk of damaging the motor. Nothing bad has happened in the past ten or more years. Make sure that both the front and rear edges of the slide touch at the exact same time when closing the room. This makes sure the room is aligned square to the motorhome wall. I think the shear pin may be too soft for the weight/force of the room. Just my thoughts and my experience with m my 2000 Diplomat.

I just got one at NAPA in Dec, about $28, because the rubber end of the link had torn loose. Delete my response. I'm referring to the Link, not the valve.

If your ignition switch is like mine (2000 Diplomat) then you can reach under the dash and push a release button on top of the switch to remove it. No need to tear into the dash.

Richard, Thank you for the input. I found a Brake Pro on eBay and decided to go with that one. It should arrive today.

I had this same problem years ago when I changed to higher wattage headlight bulbs. The switch stem was very hot. Fixed the problem by installing an automotive R86 relay in the headlight circuit: Cut the wire from the switch to the headlight bulbs. Then the trigger signal comes from the switch, then ran a new wire from battery and another to ground, and the other end of the cut wire that goes to the bulbs becomes the relay output. This offloads the high current from the switch to the relay.

Thanks, Richard. I'm checking it out.

Has anyone repaired the BrakePro? I would if I could but I really have not been able to figure out what all the pieces are inside the unit and how they work together. Do you know of a shop that might repair these? I have two but neither works: - One applies the brakes correctly but in the process totally exhausts ALL of the air, just as if I pressed the "Push or Air Relief" button. The other properly applies the brakes but when I release the pedal it repeatedly repplies the brakes for short bursts (about three times). I've dry-lubed various points inside and checked for leaks (found none).No improvement or change in symptoms. Do these sound like circuit board problems of check valve problems? If none of the above pan out, does anyone have a working portable braking system they want to sell? Thank you for your help, Bob

Linda, My 2000 Diplomat has the RVA hydraulic leveling system with the reservoir on the driver's side, in front of the rear axle, accessible by swinging out the side radiator. l

I have a 2000 Diplomat ISC 315HP. I have had two fuel leaks in the Lift Pump area and neither was the problem the pump. The first time was the three bolts holding down the pump top cover. Tightening the bolts fixed the problem; that was about five years ago. The second case was a corroded steel fuel line leaking through the side wall. I was on the Interstate so could not wait for over-night parts delivery unless necessary. The mobile diesel mechanic was able to weld the line; that has been OK for the past year. I have two mobile diesel mechanics I have used in Florida very successfully. I found both competent, reasonable and came right away when they said they would: Tampa: https://www.nextleveltruckandjeep.com/ Fort Myers: https://www.alignable.com/fort-myers-fl/big-rig-mobile-truck-services I highly recommend Big Rig in Fort Myers, the best I ever have worked with. Bob Dinsmore

Two items: (1) If you have Full Glass Coverage on your insurance, they probably will replace it without cost to you as it is a visibility hazard. I had this done for both the three-piece, driver side and the entry door dual-pane windows. The $4 annual premium is absolutely the best investment in the entire world! At two other times I also was covered for a cracked MH windshield and a pitted windshield on my wife's car ($4 each for two separate policies) (2) I used Sun Coast Design in FL, was pleased with their work, they had overnight parking with electric, and both were done in the same day.

I think you have the RVA jacks. I fixed the same problem by opening only the front jack T-handle on the hydraulic pump SLIGHTLY, as mentioned by JimJ's reference to the RVA pamphlet. It's been operating flawlessly for years.

On mine, the two L-brackets that attach the dash to the body structure have separated so I have to get this fixed. I'll wait until I get the windshield gasket replaced next Spring. Fortunately, no trips before then. So you may want to see if these brackets are in tight.

It's possible your system was not designed to charge the chassis batteries while on shore power, which was the poor design for my 2000 Diplomat. You easily can add shore-charging with a Xantrex Echo Charger. There are other solutions but this choice is very simple, less expensive than other more elegant alternatives, and it takes away no original function. Installation involves removing three nuts from the batteries and mounting the unit on the wall in the battery compartment, period. IShore charging of chassis batteries always is a lively debate on this forum so you'll hear other opinions.

Just a couple of weeks ago I used the 50/50 ATF/Acetone mixture when trying with absolutely success to remove a mower blade. No success after SOAKING it with PB Blaster. After just the first squirt with the 50/50 mix, it was unbelievably easy to remove. A totally scientific sample of one, but I'm very impressed and it will be my go-to in the future.