bklaes

amequipment.com helped with my '05.

Fortunately on mine, no un-painted area was visible with the new handle. The replacement costs around $50 and $10 for shipping

For my '05 Diplomat, I got tired of having to slap the lever toward the back of the coach to get the door open. Kids and grands thought the door was locked when it wasn't. RVPartsCenter.com had SKU# 61293, TriMark RV Door Lock Replacemnt for 13238-04, 22660-04. It superceded my original part number. When it arrived, it wouldn't fit in the hole in my door. I called their Customer Service. He was nice and explained because of the redesign, the door needs to be notched out. I was none too happy about taking an oscillating tool to the door, but I did. As I recall it was a very small corner that had to be notched out to allow the new handle to fit inside. I'm VERY happy with the new action of the replacement.

Something seems different. I'll keep re-read and re-watch the info.

Martin, I will use a 3/16" spacer from CRL, then fill with spacer sealant. After that, I'm asking if I apply a strip of butyl that is 1" wide (probably 1/8" thick") or reuse the original rubber weather seal. Dick, so I'm clear... you ran a bead of silicone around the 2 panes after the spacer sealant was applied, and before you re-installed the "U-shape" weather stripping? Something else I forgot to mention in my original post... a bead of white silicon/pro-flex was applied to the outside of the door around the window hole, before the window frame was inserted. A small bead of caulk, in the area that is unpainted. I didn't read anything about making that bead of caulk during reassembly.

I'm doing the door window removal, cleaning, reassembly and reinstall project to eliminate the moisture between the panes. (Tom Cherry, I HAVE SEARCHED this forum and HAVE READ the prior posts and HAVE WATCHED YouTube videos). I still have a question. It is suggested using butly tape to seal the 2 back together. In 2015 JACWJAMES wrote, Monaco did not use the butyl type caulk on the window but instead used a rubber type weather seal that you could reuse if you didn't cut up too bad with the putty knife." My original rubber seal survived disassembly and is in good shape. I have in my shop a roll of 1" Butyl tape. Any recommendations... re-use the original rubber weather seal or use the butyl tape? Use both? I just don't want to go thru this again.

I just went through this exercise replacing the hose reel last week. It's not as daunting as it first appears. Although, I ended up calling a handyman/plumber to help break apart the fittings for the fresh water spigot, black tank rinse and winterizing blow out fixtures. He had a couple pair of LARGE channel locks and muscles. Niether of which I have. He also stuck around to help replace the reel and reassemble/reinstall the white panel. He wasn't an RV guy but his assistance made the process much quicker.

I use broomsticks in the floor channels. Not too elegant, but keeps them shut.

Try the easy first... my ISL 400 dropped 35 degrees in operating temp when the (rear) radiator was hosed off using simple green and wam water. I hosed it off from the outside, and the inside through the floor hatch above the engin.e.

Make sure the stove knobs didn't get bumped.

Some for Speedometer and fuel gauge on my '05 Diplomat. Sometimes the low pressure alarm does not go off for 3-4 minutes after reaching pressure, sometimes it goes off right away. I replaced the Nason switch under the air brake plunger, but the alarm still acts the same. There is a thread a few years old I want to explore.

Does anybody have any experience with Milwaukee's tire inflator? The auto shut-off at desired pressure is appealing. I own a Viair, It's slow and I don't like that it's 12v. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/2848-20

Again, Tom Cherry comes through with great advice. I unplugged the Norcold's ice maker and the GFCI has not tripped in 16 hours. I'll plug the ice maker into the same receptacle as the refrigerator. I regret and apologize that I didn't search for my problem on here first. My thought was, this is so weird, I doubt anyone has ever seen anything like this before. I was wrong and will do better next time. Thanks to all that helped me through it.

Yes, I bought a new RV-rated GFI outlet and swapped it out.

I'm plugged into 50amp. The GFI outlet in the rear bath keeps tripping. It was replaced but the problem persists. After resetting it, 5-10 minutes later it trips again. It appears all but 2 receptacles (in the bedroom) are downstream from this GFI. When it trips all the bath, galley, salon, & patio outlets go dead. No other electrical circuits affected. After trying a lot of things, I came up with this: With the GFI set and providing power to all the outlets (I've got 5 minutes before it trips again)... Turning off the breaker labeled BEDROOM in the rear breaker box makes nothing happen. All outlets stay powered on. Turning off the breaker labeled INVERTER in the rear breaker box makes all those outlets power off. Turning the inverter off at the EMS control switch, does not affect the power to the outlets. What is this telling me? I've got a 2005 DST 1.5 bath floorplan - if anybody has the 120v diagram for a DST, it would be greatly appreciated. I've downloaded the 120 schematic for a 2006 Diplomat. It helps, but doesn't line up exactly with only 1 bath.