Ivylog

A light misting with WD40 and rubbing for 15 seconds does miracles to fogged headlights. Lasts for several weeks. Most LED bulbs do not increase the sight distance because the light source is bigger than the filament it replaces.

I added these LED lights that made a tremendous improvement and they are adjustable in all 3 axis… necessary for mounting on the curved front cap.

Like Jim ^^^ “last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece).  I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak” I had to buy the pressure switch to get the diaphragm.

I wonder if a diaphragm could be 3D printed out of a silicon base material?

41 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

 f I still get the 5% Sams card that would be the best option but how do I confirm??

I wish it was, but you ASSUME incorrectly… you do not get the 5% Sam’s discount as it’s billed as merchandise, not fuel.  Probably 80% of the time I find GassBuddy with  Sam’s card the cheapest (usually at a Sam’s) and TSD or Mud the other 20%.

I have a checking account that I use for TSD and EBay with very little money in it unless traveling 

Stopped at a Buc.ees in December on way south and again 10 days ago as their price was better than any TSDs and I get 5% back. This one has 3 entrances and the last one is less crowded and the last island is all diesel and DEF if you need it.

Interesting pump and no you can’t get DEF by mistake as it has a separate button and hose behind a sliding window. Diesel hose and lever to turn on is on the right. 232 pumps is pretty amazing.

Like EVO ^^^, check the SS braided line from compressor to air dryer… can’t hear it leaking when engine running. That was my issue for slow to fill… leak at the Adel clamp.

X5 on not using an inverter for high amp items… crank the generator. With a PSW inverter I’ll use the microwave for up to 2 minutes without starting the generator IF the batteries are 75%+ SOC and good solar to charge them.

The relays for my Girard door awning are behind the TV above the windshield.

Not OEM as my pressure switch is on an airline outside the frame rail behind the driver’s front tire. I also went back with a different $100 compressor that I move to besides the generator.

Need to jump to the 2 engine batteries for 10+ minutes or connect a 10 amp charger to them overnight. Once the engine is running the alternator should start charging the house batteries and once they get above 11.8 V the inverter/charger should start charging them.

40 is a good psi for the tag’s airbags unless you’re putting a fairly heavy trailer.

I’d say Vito’s are already 5 more than necessary so good for any unbalance side to side. No, you don’t need to move if you change the psi a small amount.

The regulator psi shouldn’t vary more than a couple of pounds, even with the tag raised. I’ve never head of running a minimum of 90 psi in a 295 or any other 22.5. A single 295/80/22.5 is rated 4920 at 70 psi so 70 should be enough for rigs with a 10K tag. As I posts in 2022 above, I ran 70 in my tags for 80 K miles. The 70 psi saved me when the regulator malfunctioned putting 110 psi in the airbags. I noticed the tires psi increased more than normal (no temp on the TPMS). If I’d had 90 to start, doubt I’d noticed a bigger than normal increase.

4 minutes ago, Newcsn said:

I checked the voltage on both sides of the Big Boy & directly on the chassis batteries. 13.3v on the house side & 11.74v on the chassis batteries & BB.

Looks like I’ll start by taking the BB off and giving it a cleaning!

Assuming it is as hot to the touch…most likely energized but if not then you have another problem.

I carry 7 fire extinguishers… 2 large foam in the fuel bay, 2 Halon, one of which can spray into the engine compartment from the bedroom plus a fire ball in it. The normal ABC by the door plus a small “Fire Gone” in the kitchen. Also have one of them in every vehicle. The large foam would’ve kept the wheel from reigniting as it cools the fire. Don’t ask how many I have at home.

The red wire on the switch should have 12V… good luck finding a ground to check. The fuse is in the closet at the top of all the Intelitech boards. Hard to see the black wires in your picture but the white incased resistor is for the low speed…so 2 black wires to the upper lug on the switch. IF the resistor was bad you’d still have the high speed.

Press the “Master Off”. Battery disconnect off means the batteries are disconnected.

21 hours ago, Bigdogracing said:

So did you have to purchase a new BIRD or what part fixed it? 

The diodes on the board were blown so replaced them… probably 10 years ago.

Having gone LED in a 04 Dynasty 18 years ago… reducing the amps from 32 to 4 (all 32 ceiling lights on) you want G4 12SMD 5050 bulbs in warm white (3000 temp) or daylight (5000 temp).  Daylight wasn’t available even 10 years ago and it’s my preference today for inside. I sometimes use bright white (7000 temp) outside, but it’s too bluish for many situations.

Over the years I’ve experimented with various LEDs and the 5050 chips run the coolest. Cut half the length of the pins off and bend in slightly. Use a flashlight to help get the pins in the small holes. The only LEDs I’ve had poor service out of are the strips so I use panels with 48 SMD 5050 chips.

12 bulbs for $17 on Amazon… $14 ones are 7000 temp and too blue.

https://www.amazon.com/EverBrightt-12-Pack-Camper-Reading-Marine/dp/B00NNJF1FO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MZEFGUGP2wJxHt1ZfjFdnZKiGMpoeekRXOd_dZd5iZQKdSAhoH8wPMtl85JfTUi-Nv4TIjsJ-8tw-9YcludpGys3ledjkVSzFtUlILlGwSubPJa6xGJMT3qPNCl6urVd--D_ylJxyvJ5ajNszsYL7GwyBxQ6TRY4Bh0iyr6wooONer9ABWGBJAZ2tQmJ7eV_azsIB_eZqzs5LnW7rTeVTw._QkBguEsjZb4Agxj72wRMeF7OgHwka5L0y2Ls1Y6SWk&dib_tag=se&keywords=g4+super+bright+flat+lights+12+5050+smd+car+led+light+bulb+lamp+dc12v+2w&qid=1711296104&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Only time I’ll use my pump/tank even with city water is when it’s really cold. Most pumps have a Allen set screw to adjust the pressure.

Likely all glued together. Looks like there’s a lip so I would clean it and seal around it in the hopes that’s where it’s leaking. 

Just did my door window and reused the seal. Ran a small bead of silicone around the circumference and smoothed with my finger to help seal before putting the rubber U back on. Only been 2 weeks but looks good and we’ve had a fair amount of rain. Yea I know people don’t like silicone, but it’s my window and I’ve used it for decades with good results out of the sun.

1 minute ago, Dr4Film said:

The scissor arm on our 06 Dynasty is just loose enough to allow me to lock the door open by sliding that little tit under the top arm so the arm is perfectly straight. The door will stay open unless it is very blustery outside and the wind catches the front of the door.

I am happy with the way my scissor arm operates. I must be one of the lucky ones.

How do get the door to close if it’s straight? I don’t consider myself lucky, just shade tree enough to understand how it works and what it takes to adjust it as opposed to replacing or removing to tighten the center rivet or replace with a gas strut.

At 13 years on our previous 04 Dynasty I used a sledgehammer as a backer and a heavy hammer to tighten up the center rivet off a ladder. At 20 years it’s still in the family and last year I hand to bend the little tit up some more so it didn’t get too straight making it very hard to close. About every 5 years I have to bend the portion that sticks out a little to make it harder to close. Why people replace it when a little bending or pounding on the pivot confuses me.

Pitcure is if the little tit that keeps the arms from getting too straight to close. By bending up  (with a pipe wrench) the end that sticks out, you can increase the force necessary to close… doesn’t take much.

16 hours ago, Kent Madison said:

it ended up being this temperature switch. Tapped on it and it started cycling like it should.  Thanks everyone for the help.

I take the plug off that and insert a 15A fuse in the plug bypassing it so the compressor runs all the time. Yes, it will freeze up the evaporator BUT out West it usually takes 7+ hours before the airflow decreases enough to notice. In the East it can be 4-5 hours so I turn the AC off with the fan on high for 15-20 minutes (still get cool air as it defrosts) and then turn the AC back on…rarely have to run the generator,

EBay 

Don’t make the same mistake I did of putting way too much money into a NoCold 1200  because of Boondocking misinformation about a residential refrigerator. As others have said, $5000 will buy a lot of solar and lithium batteries, not to mention the money saved by dry camping. One 100AH Lithium battery will run a residential refrigerator 24 hours and can be bought for $200.