J & Di Cooper

Hello Pudgy, I experienced a similar turbo problem on my 2005 Windsor with ISL 400. It took the 2nd Cummins shop to figure out the root cause. In my case, the rod connection to the turbo, (the ground off shaft in your photo) was seized with rust to the turbo vane lever. The cummins shop diagnosed it as a bad turbo because the rod would not move, hence the turbo was stuck and/or very erratic, and the turbo would need to be replaced. This was a mobile tech, the coach was in my driveway. After discussion with the tech, I elected to remove the turbo myself. Once getting it on the workbench, I removed the actuator mechanism and discovered the rod was rusted (seized) to the turbo however the turbo lever, as in your picture, would move freely with 1 finger in both directions, that was great news as i didn't need to replace the complete turbo ($$$). The short version, I located a new turbo actuator at a truck supply, (much less than $600), chased around the new gaskets and reinstalled the assembly. In my case there was a modulated air pressure line from the top of the actuator to a control box mounted on the intake manifold, which the stuck actuator had caused to blow an internal seal, when the engine was first shut off the leaking air was very obvious when looking into the engine compartment from the bedroom. The new control box was about $1700 from Cummins however I was also able to source from a truck supply for about $500. My suggestion: before you remove the turbo from the engine, ( which requires draining a couple gallons of coolant and replacing several gaskets), remove the turbo actuator from the turbo and check with your hand if the turbo control arm will smoothly move from stop to stop. If yes, easier simpler repair. You can test the actuator operation itself with regulated air pressure, if it doesn't move that's your problem. If the actuator is not the problem you'll have to drain coolant, remove turbo and go from there. In my case, the new actuator came with clear instructions with pictures emphasizing the need to grease the fitting between the turbo shaft and the actuator rod. Interestingly, the new actuator doesn't have a grease fitting???? there is a machined surface where one could drill, tap and install a fitting, just no hole?? It's just basic mechanical process, although the turbo assembly is a bit heavy so be prepared. Lowered it to the ground for removal and lowered through the bedroom hatch with a rope for reinstall. It's all a learning process-- hang it there YOU CAN DO IT !!! John

Hello Bill, Good to hear you found the correct solution and in an inexpensive way also. Anyone with ISL having that style turbo actuator needs to consider greasing that rod/shaft connection occasionally. The new replacement i purchased included instructions about lubing that connection, complete with a picture showing a zerk fitting on the bottom of the rod, but alas no actual fitting on the part...???? My comment about dealing with a couple gallons of coolant was only pertinent IF you also removed the turbo. Choose to enjoy the journey!! John

Hello Bill, I had a very similar issue with my ISL 400 last year. Short version... turbo output per the dash gauge wasn't normal. Low pressure-excess pressure, pressure well in excess of throttle input, very intermittent operation. Your picture shows the top portion of the actuator with a small air line attached which comes from the electronic pressure regulator. Per the Cummins tech, the correct way to test the operation on the actuator was to: 1. disconnect the air line, 2. connect a regulated (i.e. adjustable) air line and dial in pressure while observing the movement of the rod from the actuator, 3. I seem to recall the measurement was supposed to be 10-11mm of movement measured at the turbo pivot post. The tech tested mine and it would not move, nor could he pry the pivot in either direction. This was a mobile tech in my driveway from a local Cummins shop. His on site guess was the turbo was seized and needed to be replaced, he had to return to the shop and work up a price list, parts delivery, etc. I asked him, as long as the turbo has to come off, how about if I remove it? He said sure-go ahead, will save you some labor time. So i did, (that thing is heavier than it appears) got it on the work bench, started to remove the actuator and discovered the small rod end was seized onto the turbo lever shaft with corrosion. Note, there is a small snap ring which keeps the actuator rod on the turbo shaft rod-- and its a real pain to remove while turbo is on the engine, you need to have a GOOD pair of angled snap ring pliers plus don't let it fly away. Once i removed the actuator, the turbo control shaft worked freely with just one finger!! H'mmm, I think the turbo itself is fine, so I ordered a new actuator, attached it to the turbo, bench tested the function and reinstalled the turbo assembly to the engine. Success !!! Turbo works as expected. I later scheduled a chassis dyno test at Cummins shop which showed everything was within spec's. If you've priced a new Holset VGT turbo, that's a scary number. Important points: 1. Test the working function of the actuator properly while on the engine, including the air line from the electronic control unit to the top of the actuator to ensure it's not blocked. 2. If you need to (decide) to remove the actuator from the turbo to test the range of motion on the turbo control shaft itself prior to turbo removal ( i highly suggest that because there's several gaskets which will need to be replaced, plus several gallons of antifreeze) make sure you have good work lights, good quality offset snap ring pliers and a goodly portion of patience to get yourself into some position for access to that snap ring. Note the top portion of the actuator, the arm and the small end will all need to stay in alignment, i.e. come straight off together. 3. When you reinstall the actuator make sure you clean the small turbo pivot shaft well with some scotch brite, then use high temp grease on both the shaft and the actuator rod. The instructions for the new one i purchased clearly show a grease fitting on the small end of the rod, however, there wasn't any grease fitting actually on the rod..??? there is a small machined flat spot in the exact location, just no hole or fitting. I do plan to remove the actuator, drill and tap it for a grease fitting, I didn't at that time as we were scheduled to leave for the sunshine state and more of the white stuff was forecasted for the following day. Hopefully that helps. The explanation is longer than actually accomplishing the task. It's just a bit challenging to get into the right spot for removal, some from the top and some from the bottom. Enjoy each adventure !! John

Hello Tim-AZ, You mention turning your boost down 5 psi. What does your normal boost run at full throttle? I have 2005 400 ISL which will show 30-33 psi at full throttle. I know you have a different engine. Any others with 400 ISL want to share their boost pressures? Might save someone some $$$$ for a CAC replacement. Choose to enjoy this day, you might not get tomorrow. John

I have the same type door awning on my 2005 Windsor. Rolls out maybe 3 ft. When i purchased it the PO said, yes it works but it's a real pain to deal with and doesn't really help much. I insisted on seeing it operate so we unrolled it and checked everything. Well, he was correct it is a pain to close. Those sliding locks are a sleeping bear, but we got it closed and locked. I didn't try to use it for 3-4 years-then my memory slipped, it was a warm day with scattered sprinkles and i thought maybe it'd be a good time to use it, until i tried to lock it again. Make sure you press the arms close to the coach in just the right spot, use the awning rod to shove one up into the locked position. Then wiggle-push-pull-twist- say words your momma wouldn't be proud of until you can get the second slide up into the locked position. After this second reminder lesson I haven't even tried to use it again. The coverage is so small that it really doesn't keep the rain off the door or step so you get wet away. Choose to have a fantastic day!! John PS. when the snow/ice stops here in central Va, we're heading to Florida. See everyone at The Gathering.

Time, I normally see mid-30's on my dash boost gauge when the Aladdin reads 80-90% load and/or even up to 100% load, although I do avoid pushing the 100% load for any length of time, i.e. long mountain grades. I'm not in that much of a hurry. Bllksem, agreed that is a point to ponder. Except i do get the "check engine" light whenever the EB is switched on, and it goes out immediately when i switch the EB off. I did suspect the gauge when i first saw it wound around past the 0 back up towards 10-15 on the next hill, it's just never exceeded 35 psi before. 96EVO, that's my question/concern also. I don't recall ever really noticing the boost pressure climbing much when using the engine brake for defending grades or just slowing as needed. At this point i'm taking it to the local fleet service cummins shop for their review. I will report back to the group with the results. Thanks to all for your inputs, hope to see some of you at the Gathering in Tampa. Choose to enjoy this day. John

Have a problem and looking for suggestions. 2005 Windsor ISL 400 with 80k miles. Recent trip in Blue Ridge mins of Va while using the engine brake (low setting) my Check Engine light came on, gauge scan showed boost of over 30??!! Clicked off the engine brake and the light went out and the boost drops back towards 10psi. Now i'm really paying attention to the dials, as i didn't think there should be boost while using the EB. All other indicators looked normal. On the next uphill I see the boost continues to climb around the dial past 0 and at least back to the 10psi mark within a very short distance, at which point I back off the pedal. I notice the Aladdin % of load gets to about 90%, (normal 90% load equals about 30-34psi boost). I don't use the EB anymore and keep a close eye on the boost gauge and % of load. By keeping the load to about 40% I could limit the boost to 30psi by modulating the pedal pressure going uphill. Engine did not make any strange noises and there was no smoke of any color at any time. One other note, for the last couple thousand miles I've noticed a slight whistle sound comes from the exhaust pipe when first started, as my normal process is to start engine, go to fast idle while building air pressure, stow the shore power cord, do the final walk around and start driving. I do not know if the whistle is related. I have checked for loose/frayed/broken wires around the turbo. I searched here and the IRV site for turbo issues, however most articles deal with loss of pressure and/or ISM-ISX engines which have a different turbo & actuator. Thanks for your inputs. John

Our coach is parked on a pad at our house, hooked to electricity. A couple weeks ago i went inside to put something in the bedroom, while back there heard a BEEP, assumed it was the smoke detector (don't assume stuff), took it off the ceiling on my way out-brought it inside to install a new battery. A few days pass before i take it back to the coach and just as i was securing it to the ceiling....beep.... H'mmm that was not the smoke detector???? look under the kitchen cabinet and see the propane detector flashing the 2 red/2green code. I remember there's some warning information printed on the front, get a flashlight so i can read it and EOL exactly 60 months. Not as lucky as Richard, amazon says 3-4 week lead time, should deliver next week. Agree with Scotty, they must have an internal clock. Choose to enjoy this day. John Hope to see some of you in Perry, I'll be the guy with the mask and parking coaches.

Hi Chris We've been traveling on I20 the last couple days, currently in Midland. Some places with road construction, but nothing like Orlando!! Came through DFW about noon time with no backups or slow downs. Two places of note: 1) around Jackson Ms there is a long stretch where 1 lane is on the paved shoulder and 1 lane is concrete, rather annoying to drive on. 2) the bridge over the Mississippi at Vicksburg is also down to 1 lane and seems narrow, I slowed to about 30 and it was no problem. See you in Tucson. John

Hi David, Yes, I did talk to Justin about ensuring I was part of the Monacoers group and wanted a site with the group. At first he said they were completely booked out, after some discussion he decided there was 1 site left but only from Feb 11th until Feb 15th. We discussed if i would be open to moving to another area for the last night and he knew that was somewhat of a hassle, but i agreed as it's not really that big of an issue if needed. However as of this afternoon they did not have another site available for Feb 15th, he advised me to call back everyday to check on possible cancellations. I will do that. Not a huge issue that he needed to charge my card today, just thought it might be good to pass along to others. Of note, he did say they would send me an email with the confirmation number and the charges, I haven't got that yet, however he did give me a reservation confirmation number #16587659. I will contact them tomorrow morning to confirm and check status update. Looking forward to meeting the group, i've learned several very useful bits of information from the posts. Thanks for your speedy reply. John David, I noticed the 2-1-2020 cutoff date, that's why i called today. Our other obligations were not 100% rescheduled until this morning. Best Regards, John

Hello David, We did call Lazy Days this afternoon and made our reservations to attend this event. Justin could only confirm we have a spot from Feb 11th until Feb 15th, i.e. he could not confirm site for Feb 16th. However, he did charge my credit card the full amount of $533 saying this was a new policy, collect payment at the time reservation is booked. He advised me to call back everyday to check for any possible cancellations for Feb 15th, thereby freeing up a spot for the last night. Looking forward to meeting all the other Monacoers in a few weeks. Enjoy life, John

Hello All, We've just recently joined this site, referred here from our Colonial Virginians friends Dan and Pam. At the moment we're 90/10% coming, should have the various loose ends tied up by tomorrow, one way or the other. Enjoy the journey. John and Diane 2005 Windsor Lynchburg Va