Dennis H

So, I filled up at a Petro station this afternoon. App price was $3.338, Pump price was $4.04. Checking with TDS they are charging me the correct price. Not sure if i overreacted but the previous two transactions did not reflect the app pricing. For now, I'm a happy camper again but I'll monitor what happens when we fuel up again. My reason for replying to this post was to alert others that the app price may not reflect the charged price which is what happened two times in a row. Perhaps it was a glitch in the system, I really don't know. Since no one responded with a similar issue, I can only assume it had to do with my account. Either way, it appears now, to be working the way it is supposed to...thanks for listening.....Dennis

As I said, if all you're interested in is how much of a 'discount' you received, great! You "saved" $558.08 over what you would have paid otherwise. Then again, if you had shopped and bought your fuel at stations that offered fuel for less, your 'savings' would have been greater. If I buy at Nordstroms and they give me a 5% 'discount' on a shirt when I could have purchased that same shirt somewhere else for half of what Nordstrom charged, did I really get a deal at Nordstroms? The point of my discussion and dissatisfaction with TSD is that the price they post in their app and the price they charge differ. If I'm in charge of the company and I want to get customers to go to Loves for instance, all I have to do is show a price cheaper than any of the other stations regardless of what I'm going to charge once you fuel up there. This is a dishonest practice.

Well, Scotty, IMO, "reputable" companies don't mislead customers. How long they've been in business is irrelevant. Take Monaco for instance. I, too have had the TSD card for many years and have used it and appreciated it's use. However, I'm speaking from the experiences of 2024! Things change. Companies make poor decisions and pass those poor decisions on to their customers until they finally catch up to them and they fold. When I plan a trip, I schedule my route and figure out where I'm going to need fuel. I then open the Open Roads app and look at their posted prices along my route. I then schedule stops accordingly. On my itinerary sheet I also print what TSD 'offered' as that stations price. Upon arrival I reopen their app and check the price again. While fueling, I screenshot their app price for my records. OK, so far? When I receive my settlement email, I verify what I was charged versus what I should have been charged. If there's a difference, then a phone call is warranted. Twice, on this trip I've been charged more than what was offered in their app. They refuse to acknowledge that they are posting erroneous pricing on their app. They told me I fueled at 3:12pm and the 'change' didn't occur until 4:33pm. What a crock! I provided them with the screenshot I took while pumping fuel. They ignored that. I'm sorry, but in my book, any company that doesn't stand behind their services and offerings is disreputable and dishonest. If one doesn't care what they pay for fuel, only that they get some discount then keep supporting this company. Personally, I manage my budget based on what I can afford and take affront to a company that offers one price yet charges more at closing.....Dennis

While it's always nice to have a way to save money, unfortunately this card and it's company are questionable. Yes, I have their card and have used it twice this month. They have an app which purportedly provides the user with the means to search their route for the least expensive stations. When I travel, I use this app and select from different stations along the route I'm traveling. For instance, I fueled up at the TA station in Las Cruces NM. Posted price was $3.79. TSD's app showed $3.33. Pretty good savings right? Wrong! The way they do business is you scan their card and then they provide you with a receipt AFTER they take the money out of your checking account. I received the receipt and was charged $3.47 per gallon! Still a savings but I could have purchased fuel from a Maverik station at $3.49 and used my credit card which gives me 5% cash back. Better savings but TSD 'fooled' me into thinking the price I'd pay was $3.33. Conversations with them were futile as they told me I purchased the fuel at 3:12 pm and the price change came later at 4:43 pm. I take a screenshot of their app price while I'm fueling my motorcoach so their app doesn't reflect the current pricing. Today, while waiting to hear back from Ms. Winters, a supposedly customer service rep, I fueled up once again in Guymon OK. Station price $3.49. Advertised price per the app was $3.349. Screenshot taken. Got my receipt tonight. Charged price was $3.47 for a savings of a whopping $1.99!! All I can say is buyer beware.! I intend to set them up tomorrow when I fuel again. I am going to call them to get their verbal price, compare it to their app price then see what I'm actually charged.

MODERATOR EDIT. THE SUBJECT OF WHICH COOLANT AND SUCH IS A POPULAR AND OFT DISCUSSED TOPIC. THIS TOPIC IS COMBINED WITHE LAST CURRENT ONE. END OR EDIT I've never had to add engine coolant (yet) to my Cummins driven coach. That said, I've always had the SCA checked during our annual service but the coolant has never been low. Given that I've now broached the subject, I'll probably see a need to add coolant in the future. Therefore, I'm looking for advice on what to carry in case of emergency or the need to top off the radiator. Is there a special blend required for diesel engines or just grab a bottle of Prestone and be on my way? Thanks for any input. BTW my coolant is green, if that matters....thanks..Dennis

Not to be snarky but did the park shut off the water? Assuming you have water flowing TO the coach, yes there is a one way valve behind that screen. Do you keep any water in your fresh water tank? We keep 1/4 tank for emergencies. If so, try using your pump to see if that works. The one way valve allows water in but not out so I don't think that would be your issue....Dennis

Have you tried electrical with the generator running? Do you have power when plugged in? There is a fuse in the house battery compartment. Also the ground should be there. Start there with a meter to check battery output at the source. Check that ground lug then work outward.... PPL has an excellent repair shop, give them a call if you're unable/unsure of how to check things out yourself.....Dennis

The kit I use is for a Jabsco pump but they might be identical. A call to Jabsco will tell you. The kit Model is 18598-1000. IIRC I purchased it from Amazon....Dennis

I changed to a pump hose and black pvc fittings. Poor design for sure from Monaco. That hose flexes with the slide so it sees a lot of use over the years. Here's my pics..Dennis

This should be a lesson for everyone. Most lube shops 'forget' to lube the u joints and your steering column.....Dennis

I tried that once. My yard was too small for the trench and my neighbor got ticked off when I did it in his backyard. Said it was too close to his patio.....TIC....Dennis

Looks like dry camping for a couple days. Obviously if you have a towed, you could go to a different hotel. I assume you've spoken to the manager about the emergency situation yes? That said, did you recover the drive shaft? The air leak, depending on where it is, may be able to be crimped allowing you to get moving on your own. Assuming you have the drive shaft, does it appear it can be fixed? There are a dozen mobile rv shops in the Houston area. I'd start calling and see what is available. Most shops offered a four day weekend so I don't know of many repair shops that will help you this weekend. This might help https://rvservicereviews.com/StateList.asp?state=tx BTW, Cummins Houston is an excellent facility and they have hookups.....Dennis

I did a couple mods that shed almost 300 pounds of junk. The rear TV slid into a side cabinet and I tried several TVs that never did fit right. Also that cabinet will only hold a 32" TV max. I now simply put a 43" on the shelf. I did drill a 7/8" hole in the side next to the slide out for the power cord and the HDMI cable which allows me to slide them back inside when traveling. The TV sits on the bed when moving.....Here's a link to the mods https://executive45pbq.blogspot.com/2020/ The Bose and sub are the same as yours. The connections to them are in the compartment above the passenger's seat. The fittings Monaco used were not compatible with the Sony equipment I installed so I simply trashed all of it and installed the sound bar next to the front TV. Sounds better than it did with the Bose anyway.I also installed a sound bar in the bedroom in the cabinet above the clothes hamper......Dennis

Start with the easy stuff first. Remove those two screws on the housing. That will expose the wiring. Use a test light to a known ground.. If it lights then ground it to the ground wire and see if it still lights. If not, then you'll have to run a new ground wire. If it does then move to your switch and connect the two hot leads and see if it now works. If it does, your switch is faulty. If both of these work then move to finding the fuse and/or relay.....do you have a 12VDC tester?....Dennis

A special thanks to Paul Whittle for fixing the gauges and advice and to Rick W for the pics and advice. And thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions. I installed the gauges this evening, fired up the coach and everything works as it was designed to work. We are once again, Happy Campers!!! Great site eh?...Dennis

Reading the above two posts, I assume A goes to E and B will go to G. Then F would go to D and H goes to C. Am I reading that correctly? Either way, I will wait until Rick has an opportunity to see how his are wired. You guys are great...Dennis

Well, after my previous discussion relative to my air pressure gauges not working correctly, I removed them and sent them to Paul Whittle for him to work his magic on them. I received them back yesterday and decided to reinstall them today. Alas, it was not meant to be! When I removed them, I diagrammed their connections and made a simple diagram...see picture below. On page two, I indicated which connectors went in each location on the diagram. So far so good, right? Well, my darling wife cleaned the coach and figured this scrap of paper was trash so she chucked it. Unfortunately, that scrap was the page that I had drawn where the wires connected on the diagram! I have one connector (A) coming from the tach cluster, another (B) from the speedometer cluster. IIRC, these went to one of the connectors on the air gauge but I don't know which one. There are two separate looms that I believe went from the Pressure gauge cluster to each of the air gauges. Again, I'm not sure which one. So, looking at attachment two below, A goes ? B goes ? C goes ? etc. I would appreciate any info someone can provide, pictures would be great or simply A goes to C-- B goes to D etc. I've looked through my electrical schematics and my owner's manual with no joy. My wife says I should be glad I have a clean coach. and yes, I still love her.... Thanks in advance.....Dennis

Exactly why my wife has ATT and I have Verizon. One of us always has service. And "Lifetime" maps never specifies whose lifetime they consider....just sayin....Dennis

Thanks Rick. I'm all thumbs with a soldering weapon. That said, Paul Whittle has my gauges and I'm waiting to hear from him as far as a successful solution....I appreciate your input....Dennis

I download all my POIs using GPS coordinates obtained using Google Maps. With GMaps satellite, you can pinpoint any issues you might run into and also ensure you'll get in and out without any problems.....Dennis

Most likely you will find a loose wire, probably a ground, on one of the switches or even within the multiplex, Usually an incomplete connection is what will cause your voltage drop,. Glad you're up and running again. Save that length of wire for next time....and there will be a next time.,...lol.....Dennis

In an emergency situation, simply run a separate wire from your 12vdc supply directly to the pump. I carry a length of wire, fused, with a switch that I can use to trouble shoot electrical gremlins. You can get an inline fuse holder at any auto parts, wally world or like place. You could use a clamp for the batter to act as a switch, or simply get a switch to install in line. That will keep the campground happy that you're not doing your dishes in their showers.....😁...Dennis

Check the fluid in the reservoir. There's a switch in there that triggers the warning system. You might have a separate issue than the seal you replaced. An alternative, albeit not the best is to remove the fuse and be on your way since you've said they're up. Start with the simple stuff then move up the ladder....Dennis