Jim Andrews

Hello, I am having the darnedest time finding the part number for front wheel seals on my 2002 Cayman. I have called several RV places and they ask for the last 8 of the vin and then point me somewhere else. Maybe they won't make much money so they don't want to bother with it, I don't know. If I had the actual part number of the seal it would be helpful. I don't want to take the wheel apart (I can't do that anyway) to pull the seal and leave it unattended until the part comes in. Does anyone have the part number handy or a company I can call to obtain them? Oh, even Kenworth service had problems finding the part. last 8 of VIN 21018752 Thanks for the help.

I wanted to thank all of you for your responses. I did purchase the Batteries at Costco. $198.28 for two GS2 Interstate Batteries. The is by far the best price for batteries. If you don't have a Costco membership, get a friend that does. Well worth the effort. I saved Almost $200 bucks. Happy New Year everyone.

Thanks Ray. Great Tip. I have pictures from when I cleaned the cage, but no harm taking them again. Don't know why they don't, maybe "tis' the season", and making room for better selling stuff. Don't matter, I'll have them next week. Thanks for the tip. Happy New Year to ya!

The two 6V Interstate batteries were installed 6 years ago and they just died when it got cold. The same ones can be had at Costco for $99 each. Decided to go with the same thing.

Thanks for the tip. I ordered 2 of them. 7-10 days to get to the Costco store. Sam's carries Diehard. So, I can wait. They are $99 each now. You saved me $150 for 2 as opposed to buying from a dealer. Thanks again.

I have to replace my House batteries. They are the Interstate battery 6 volt deep cycle gc2-xhd-utl. This is the first time I have to replace the house batteries. Does anyone have any recommendations of a equivalent brand battery or should I stay with the same. They run about $170 each. Was hoping to find something just as good but less expensive. Any recommendations? Thanks.

I've never been there so I have to ask a couple questions. I assume there is no power hookups and you have to rely on generator and Solar for power? What is the approximate cost to stay for 2-3 months for the site location?

Thanks for the help. I do know about the T-handle and they are retracted. I ran all three jacks down and red light cam on indicating they were down and used the T-handle to retract. The switch part is the only problem. The green light comes on when I turn the switch to the on position. The yellow and red light comes on like they should at the right times and also beeps. When I push the "all" switch or individual switches, nothing happens. It used to beep until all jacks were retracted. When I release the T-Handles, the light go back to normal. I had a problem with the Bong sensor and supposedly was repaired a year and 1/2 ago. I thinking that's where the problems might be. I can't seem to locate the Bong or the wiring to it. It seemed to be coming from under the dash. Oh, one more thing, when I started to unscrew the "remote switch" on the picture, they seemed to have a nut on the bottom. I only loosened 2 then stopped. I didn't want to drop the nuts in the crevasse never to be found. It looks like I will have to take the whole side panel off to get to the switches. Before, I did all of that, I want to check the Bong connections. Any guesses?

Thanks for the help. This just happened all of a sudden. Never had a problem before. I think I will let it warm up first before I start taking things apart. It's just weird. I don't think I can retract the pads if the hydraulic fluid can't be reversed to allow the springs to bring them back. I'll keep you posted. Jim

Maybe I should clarify my problem just a bit. I have a 4 position switch. When I turn on the switch to engage the hydraulic extensions, the north side of the switch engages and I can hear them working. When I press the south side of the switch to retract, nothing happen. It's dead. No noise nothing. I depress the south button "all" nothing happens, but all north side buttons engage the hydraulics. I think it's electrical not mechanical at this point. Hope that helps explain it a little better. Thanks. Jimybe I should clerify my problem just a bit. I have a 4

This is the first time i experienced this problem. My hydraulics worked every time. Today, I heard the bell sound when I came to a stop and wondered what was up with that. I turned on the hydraulic and pushed the up buttons and nothing happened. When I pressed the extend button, they started to extend. Now the retract button on all 3 don't work they all engage to go down, but not up. Someone said to extend all the way down and it should correct itself. I hesitate to do that because, I won't be able to move the MH if all are extended. Any suggestions before I try that fix. It got cold here in Texas (35 degrees) the last couple of nights and wondered if that had anything to do with it. I don't know where to start. Thanks. 2002 Monaco.

Thank all of you for your replies. I now know what NOT to do. Thanks for the insight.

Try checking the switch behind the brake peddle 1st. See if you have power to the switch. Make sure power goes thru the switch. If you don't, ohm out the switch. If you have power to the through the switch. See if you have power to the bulb, if you do, you probably have a ground problem. Place a temporary wire from the bulb to the ground. If no power to the switch or bulb, it's probably a cut wire or relay. Don't forget to use the chassis for the ground, not ground wire. Hope this helps.

Well, I did follow pretty much what you said. I found a lot of dealers are selling my pristine Vintage 02 Cayman for a couple thousand more than me. Mine has been garaged (other than driving it 117k miles) all it's life, a transferable warranty on engine tranny, gen, seals and appliances as well. So, obviously, I think it has a high value because of that (I know......). NADA is what all the lenders seem to use to value the rig and their pricing is absurdly low compared to what everyone is listing theirs for. So, maybe I'm out of sync with the valuation or I'm looking for value in the wrong place. My question is this, I am getting solicitations from RV & Boat Brokers that tell me they can sell my MH for what I am asking. They say they charge the BUYER the fee's, on top of my selling price at no cost to me. That is a lot to swallow and was wondering if anyone experienced that or used this type of service. Thanks, Jim

Good article. I decided two months ago to sell my 02 Monaco Cayman. I finally got it all polished up and ready to sell. Where would you go to place an ad for selling my MH? Where can I get the value so I can price it correctly? It still has an extended warranty thru next August or up to 160,000 miles and transferable on major appliances, engine, tranny and seals. I think that by itself is worth a lot, but I'm not sure how to price it. It's in excellent condition with 117,000 miles. Any suggestions? Jim

Thanks. To be honest, I would never have guessed the gas gauge would go out. I do typically watch my miles driven, thus knowing I only went 340 miles. I got fulled when apparently the gauge went bad when it was sitting, because it showed full. Who goes and gets fuel when the gauge shows it to be full. Me from now on for sure. They are having trouble getting the part so I might go pick get my MH, drive it home and try to do the repair myself. I'm not sure if that means dropping the tank or what kind of job that would be to replace myself. Not excited to do that either, but I could if it's easily accessible. I haven't looked under the MH as it is in LR and I'm in Texas. Regardless, I'm going to pick it up this weekend and will have a full tank when I leave. lol

I forgot to show the finished product on the repair. What I ended up doing was removing the lattis trim, I spot glued 3 spots above the rail to the ceiling. Then, I braced the rail up against the ceiling. I found two 1/2 inch wood screws and screwed them under the rail into the wall. I didn't want to use anything longer for fear of going through the side of the MH. As you can see, it holds nicely and it's behind the door so you can't see the screws. After the glue set, I tried pulling on the slide downward to see if it would move and it is solid. The door catches snap together and work now too. Had to make a little minor adjustments to the rail-wheels and now another job done.

Thanks for the story. Interesting you had 28 gallons your unit didn't know was there. I would have thought the needle would have been way below the E line and would have still been going. Of course, I don't know what determines the tank has zero gallons or how that works. Diesels are new to me and I'm learning and I'm to old for these hard knocks. They hurt now!! lol

Problem Solved. Update of the Curt Turn Signal box problem. It turns out I had the wrong Curt box. It was converting a 2 to 3 wire system which won't work and what I needed was converting a 3 to 2 wire system. How did I find that out? I called the Curt company and they were really helpful as well. How he explained what a 3 wire system was; A 3 wire has separate brake lights/lenses and separate turn signal lights/lens. My MH has separate TS and BL (3 wire). A 2 wire system uses the same lens for the brake light and turn signal. The Curt converter box is what switches 3 wire to 2 thus, 3-2 wire Curt unit. The reason the one I show in the pictures didn't work was because it was a 2-3 (one lens for BL/TS to separate BL/TL lenses on what you are pulling). The Curt unit and I needed the 3-2 wire unit. My MH is the 3 and the HHR toad is the 2. Once I got the right one in, it hooked up easily and all works like its supposed to. I want to thank "all of you" for your inputs and the time you spent writing about it. Hopefully we all learned a little something. I know I did.

Thanks, I see they range from $15 to $40. Does the brand or price matter?

Interesting. I don't have any smell when I'm stopped, but when I drive down the road, I can smell it all the way up front. Not bad, but I have a good nose. Others riding don't seem to pick up the scent. Don't know where it's coming from either. The Bathroom smells just fine. Sinks too. Suggestions?

Here is an update for the reason my MH just stopped. I was out of fuel.......I know what y'all thinking, "Dumb ..s. It saved me a "potentially fuel pump" replacement and 6K. Now, I have happy feet!!!! Well, don't be so quick to judge. I haven't driven my MH since last year and I was pretty sure I filled up the tank because I knew I was not going anywhere any time soon. When I left, my fuel gauge said it was FULL (not almost, but past the F). When my MH stopped, my fuel gauge said I was just under 1/2 tank. I only traveled 300 miles and can go about 550 miles safely without the fuel light coming on. I don't ever let it go below 1/4 tank. Anyway, the problem was the "fuel gauge" and the tank "was" empty. Geeze. This is only the 2nd time I every ran out of gas and my first one was in 1967 the year I graduated that's how I remembered it. Had a bunch of girls in the car celebrating graduation and it stopped right in town and had to be pushed to the side. Will "never" forget that one. Thank all of you for your input and quick responses. That's what I like most about this site. So many knowledgable people. My sincere thanks again. Jim

Gosh, I hope these mechanics would already know this stuff. I am taking notes and will forward all of this info to them. Thanks.

Thanks for explaining. The mechanics at Kenworth pulled the fault codes and nothing there relating to this problem. Had some high temp codes, but those came from when I was in the mountains 2 years ago. I'm assuming the fuel pump and the CAPs are the same. That's is what they will replace after they check the fuel contamination.

I will call and ask them to do that. Forgive my ignorance, what are CAPS? We did change both fuel filters first.