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MyronTruex last won the day on March 17
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FirstName
Myron
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Make
Holiday Ramber
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Model
Endeavor
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Year
2008
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City & State
Davenport
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Full Address (Optional)
2307 FDC Grove Road, Davenport Florida, Florida, 33837
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Brief Bio (Optional)
Certified Senior Electronics Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Vp & Owner
Original owner HR 2008 , full timer. -
Profile (Optional)
Certified Senior Electronics Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Vp & Owner
Original owner HR 2008 , full timer.
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MyronTruex's Achievements
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Community Answers
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Removing shepherd steering box
MyronTruex replied to Rgoodman's topic in Chassis, Handling, Tires & Brakes
Robb, I keep a couple different size pipes to slide over my wrenches for extra torque. Really an accident about to happen when used on a large bolt but one does what one needs to do. -
MyronTruex started following Cleaning Windshield , 2006 Diplomat entrance Door paddle latch , Looking for Ignition On 12v signal in Rear Curb Bay and 5 others
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2006 Diplomat entrance Door paddle latch
MyronTruex replied to Kenster's topic in General Motorhome Discussion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6-SFexjNuU Check this out for proper adjustment too. -
Looking for Ignition On 12v signal in Rear Curb Bay
MyronTruex replied to DaKevster's topic in Electrical Systems
If F2 has voltage controlled by the ignition switch, pull it and find out which end is hot when the ignition is on. Then use a Fox and Hound to insert a tone on the (cold) side of that fuse. Then sniff the wiring bundles on the output side of the fuse holder to chase down which is the trlr wire. You may have to resort to then sharpening the positive lead or your voltmeter or test light to find the exact wire by inserting the fuse and taking it out while finding which wire is the actual one. If you look very closely at the wires they may actually have writing on them. You may want to use the 7 pin trailer socket while removing each of the connectors on the right side of the fuse panel, one at a time to get you to the right bundle to start. -
Looking for Ignition On 12v signal in Rear Curb Bay
MyronTruex replied to DaKevster's topic in Electrical Systems
The trlr fuse is likely a keyed function. You could test the 7 pin towing socket to confirm. -
4 pin electrical hookup about to drive me to sell the rv
MyronTruex replied to 1nolaguy's topic in Batteries
https://www.amazon.com/Oyviny-Trailer-Circuit-Indicators-Function/dp/B09C85C92J?th=1 Just found this device. Looks like it will test both 7 and 4 pin connections as well as being a 7 pin to 4 pin adaptor. What a great idea. -
I got an exact replacement for mine at Home Depot a few years back.
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Breakers get tired and wear out so a replacement is in order. Not knowing the size of your AC unit, going to a 20 amp might not be a great idea but 15 amps seems borderline for sure. Did you take the cover off the air condenser. Probably not the right name but the radiator thing that has the air blow through to cool it. They are a bit of a pain to clean but they can get really dirty. As a temporary test after cleaning, if it still pops the breaker. You may be able to swap the breakers in question. Staying right there to see if the AC runs ok on the 20 amp.
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Need some pictures.
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Amazon is where I get my 0000 steel wool. Been using this method for longer than I can remember. My buddy was washing his windshield, up on a ladder. I grabbed my ladder and took the other half of the windshield with steel wool in hand. Vinegar and water is great but plain car wash soap if fine too. In a couple of minutes my side was spotless while he was still trying to get the bugs off.
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The higher the voltage, the higher the wattage consumed by the glow plugs. I really would love to see the voltage readings now. Just a volt or two can make a serious difference. Low voltage alone can confuse electronics.
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Try some diluted vinegar and 0000 steel wool to clean the glass super clean. The fine steel wool does an amazing job.
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Watching the voltage drop as the glow plugs suck a lot of current and then having the starter engage and pull the voltage really low quickly shows you have a supply problem/ground. Even if it started after doing trying a couple of times, the heavy glow plug current may have shut off because of the heated area from previous tries allows the glow plugs to shut off, and the tiny bit extra voltage allows you to start it. Get those probes sharpened and measure the voltage at the center of the bolts/stud. And ground your meter to a shiny place when you test the negative post. This simple test will tell you if you have a bad ground, along with an obvious poor supply voltage.
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Frank is getting right to the heart of it. Get to the wires on the back of the generator. Showing 12.7 volts on them without the generator turning over is nearly useless information. Not quite though. IF your voltage as measured right in the middle of the bolts holding the wires drops, then you need to get your voltmeter negative lead to a clean ground and put your positive lead in the middle of the negative bolt on the generator. IF any voltage shows up while cranking and you are measuring the ground post, you have a bad ground. Don't use the wire terminals of the wires to make the measurements. You need to dig the meter into the bolts ends. I actually sharpen my voltmeter probes to nearly a needle sharpness. Yes this can play heck with my fingers but it really assures me of getting a good measurement. IF you can't find a decent ground for the meter. Use a wire brush or sandpaper and make one. You need to be sure your measurements are valid.