MyronTruex

https://daytonairsuspension.com/products/leveling-or-height-control-valve-h01500un Check this site out. Your's looks like mine. My owners manual shows how to adjust them, except the ones shown in the manual are a different design. So I had to just experiment a bit.

JB Weld should work. Use the 5 minute type and you can be back on the road in minutes. ☠️ Thanks for the heads up.

Unfortunately my two AC's did not come with drain cups. The gallons of water coming over the sides can make a mess for sure. Making some cups that just slide under and then using some tubing the water is/was run over the sides. However the overhanging tubes just moved the water away from running down the sides but the splashing on the ground shoots up dirt. Another mess. Using some PVC and velcro to attach them to the sides a rain gutter downspout was made that could be installed from the ground easily. They were ugly of course and not a great resolution. It would be nice if someone with a printer could fashion cups that would just slide under the units and even with a very small diameter hose could be run over the sides. Addressing the AC cleaning Richard, did you remove the condenser cover and clean the coils on them? Another tool that I wish someone would design is a plug to fit the opening so water can not get inside when cleaning them. Using the thin flexible cutting boards allows me to deflect most of the water but is kind of cumbersome. A water heater flushing tool makes water control easier when cleaning those condensers as well. Glad you are getting out of the heat. Hopefully we will be able to travel this Spring.

My 08 has on ride height valve on the front and one on each side in the back. If the right one is low the coach would likely lean a bit. Might be worth checking.

The hallway GFI feeds the built in vacuum cleaner in the basement. Unplug the vacuum. As for the refer. There were just too many issues with mine over the years. Went through at least three ice makers, multiple failures of heating elements, and other issues along the way. We have a nice residential in place and have loved it for about five years. It is so deep it is hard to reach the back. Ice starts dropping in less than ten minutes and fills a massive container. I did not connect the refer to the inverter because we have the 2000W modified just as you have. The temps only begin to climb after about four hours and a few minutes stopping for lunch and running the generator or just running the gennie for a couple of hours along the way keeps things fine. The AC circuits can drive you crazy. They hide junction boxes buried under cables inside the cabinet next to the fireplace. And yes, a Fox and Hound is really helpful. We have owned ours since new and I have done so many modifications just the index would fill three pages. I supplied Frank with the files from my factory CD as well as a ton of other files. He is probably sorry he asked for them. If you would like a copy, let me know. You need a good wi-fi speed because there are about 7GB of files.

There is an indentation on mine as well. It took me a couple of trys to get one to fit. Maybe Supernright lights?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TRZR0W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AWD8UITGYBZKS&psc=1

A few pictures might help someone in the future. Glad you found it.

120V 40SKQ.pdf I bought the factory CD when we bought our coach new. I have about 7 GB of information I can give you a link to. You may want to delete some folders when done. I have gathered information over the years and may files have comments and notations. The 40 SKQ has a gfi next to the kitchen sink on the side next to the sofa. There are two breakers on the Inverter/converter that feeds various circuits. One controls the microwave. There is a GFI on the floor in the hall mounted on the small vacuum cleaner closet. I believe there is one in the bathroom as well.

It looks like you nailed it. They just paralleled the incoming power to the input of the pump. Just plugging the pump in to activate it. The pump has a built in pressure switch so would turn itself off, unless the water runs dry, then the pump will run constantly. I'm attaching a couple of files in case they are helpful. 2000 Diplomat Water pump and levels.pdf Water Pump Relay.pdf

I bet Josams can spot the solenoid. You may have gotten wasp mud in them. I try to honk them just a tiny bit when I can.

Post some pictures of your water bay. They could easily bury in behind a panel or under pipes and wires. Physically follow the wires from the pump if possible. If all else fails, the old Fox and Hound is my go to tool.

Just because you cleaned the contacts does not mean it is actually working, (well). Your engine batteries could be in very bad shape internally and you should give the big boy at least four hours to try to bring them up from the dead. Putting a voltmeter across the engine batteries while cranking will tell the story. If you can get a jumper cable and bypass the big boy by connecting both battery banks this should help as well. I don't mean the wimpy ones you use to start a car. Get one that is solidly built.

Robb, I keep a couple different size pipes to slide over my wrenches for extra torque. Really an accident about to happen when used on a large bolt but one does what one needs to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6-SFexjNuU Check this out for proper adjustment too.

If F2 has voltage controlled by the ignition switch, pull it and find out which end is hot when the ignition is on. Then use a Fox and Hound to insert a tone on the (cold) side of that fuse. Then sniff the wiring bundles on the output side of the fuse holder to chase down which is the trlr wire. You may have to resort to then sharpening the positive lead or your voltmeter or test light to find the exact wire by inserting the fuse and taking it out while finding which wire is the actual one. If you look very closely at the wires they may actually have writing on them. You may want to use the 7 pin trailer socket while removing each of the connectors on the right side of the fuse panel, one at a time to get you to the right bundle to start.

The trlr fuse is likely a keyed function. You could test the 7 pin towing socket to confirm.

Good idea on the boost button. And perhaps start the generator first as well. You really need a voltmeter right on the input to the starter while someone hits the key to start. It's a scary thing to do so I always try to connect an alligator clip and run a piece of scrap wire to a safe place.

https://www.amazon.com/Oyviny-Trailer-Circuit-Indicators-Function/dp/B09C85C92J?th=1 Just found this device. Looks like it will test both 7 and 4 pin connections as well as being a 7 pin to 4 pin adaptor. What a great idea.

I got an exact replacement for mine at Home Depot a few years back.

Breakers get tired and wear out so a replacement is in order. Not knowing the size of your AC unit, going to a 20 amp might not be a great idea but 15 amps seems borderline for sure. Did you take the cover off the air condenser. Probably not the right name but the radiator thing that has the air blow through to cool it. They are a bit of a pain to clean but they can get really dirty. As a temporary test after cleaning, if it still pops the breaker. You may be able to swap the breakers in question. Staying right there to see if the AC runs ok on the 20 amp.

Need some pictures.

Frank, you are too funny. Never heard them called the "candy shop". Great advice Frank.

Amazon is where I get my 0000 steel wool. Been using this method for longer than I can remember. My buddy was washing his windshield, up on a ladder. I grabbed my ladder and took the other half of the windshield with steel wool in hand. Vinegar and water is great but plain car wash soap if fine too. In a couple of minutes my side was spotless while he was still trying to get the bugs off.

The higher the voltage, the higher the wattage consumed by the glow plugs. I really would love to see the voltage readings now. Just a volt or two can make a serious difference. Low voltage alone can confuse electronics.