Biljol

Ok I fixed mine it was not the motor but the controller box soooooo I went with the KISS system I purchased a spdt rocker switch that is off in the middle and momentarily in the up or down position and wired the motor to power while keeping the voltage limiter in place. Wired like page 46 of the 2000 manual I know I could have used a non momentary switch but I wanted the ability to stop the awning at any point. I did loose the wind sensor but I have a plan for that also to come soon and mine has been broken for months. I also lost the remote but never used it ever.

I have the same problem right now on mine I am able to Hotwire it a the control box and get it to extend so not the motor. Had to leave on a trip so not digging into it right now.

I have done this kind of the magnum uses a straight cable and the trace used a flip cut the end off and crimp a new rj11. I also switched to lithium and did not need the temp sensor clipped off and used for a shunt.

I actually hear the out relay click or some relay but the motor does not go out. Yes I don’t think it’s the motor now because I can make it extend by jumping the 120v. I see some diagrams in the manual to install a switch and it gets setup without the controller board. We never use the remote and the wind sensor has been broken for a long time so the manual switch system seems a good idea to me. Tested with and without the current limiter and it works fine so may leave that in play. With the manual switch. I also do like the idea of the newer motor with the digital stops but not wanting to tear into the unit at the moment. Any other thoughts?

So after some more work I think the out adjustment screw is not working with the awning in all the way I can hear the click in the control box but the awning does not move I adjusted the out adjustment screw many revolutions in the + direction still no movement my only guess is a bad motor that the adjustment screw don’t work.

Ok bypassed the voltage limit box no effect. I was able to be the awning to go out by “hot wiring” the main control box so my guess is there is a bad part in it. also now that I have manual opened when I go to close the motor runs after the awning is closed all the way. Need to find the adjustment for that. Looking at the manual now,.

I have a Girard Awning on my 2000 exe on the last trip I put it out just fine. The wind picked up so I pulled it in. Now it will not go out I can bring it in but not out. I opened the controller box and was able to jump the contacts to bring in but not out. I assume that since it comes in but will not go out the motor and AC current is fine. A couple of notes my wind sensor has a bad arm I have a replacement but can not get the cups assemble to come off the current sensor. I wonder if it’s not allowing it to go out. I tried pulling on the cups but would not come off. I am going to look for the dip switch settings to see if I can bypass the wind sensor this weekend.

I think it will also have to do with how old your units are mine are 20 years old still blow cold but take more than what they should to start and run.

Read this!!! https://community.fmca.com/topic/2879-coaches-with-double-ended-wheel-studs/ I just had this issue the tire shop did not center the wheel correctly and then ponded on the lug nuts with there air impact wrench this ended up pulling the studs out some form the hub damaged the back end nuts and they had to cut the nuts off. There are wheel centering tabs on the hub but they did not allow Monaco to put on there hubcaps so they “trimmed them down” this makes it very easy for a tire changer to misalign the heel on the hub. Spec is 390-450 max most places are used to trucks at 450-500.

To actually compete they will need to get the speeds up and the cost down. With almost every home in a urban area able to get 1gig at 100.00 a month and cell providers building out the 5G systems in rural areas. This may end up being a sprint fixed wireless type of boondoggle. Starlink has a small market with a high cost to deploy. He’s also getting push back from “space environment people” regarding the number of satellites he wants to deploy. Recently starlink approached the US government to get another grant on top of the 900 million they have already received to continue deploying the network. This is one of the reasons they limit access, to meet the requirements of the grant that has a conditional requirement to provide services to rural areas. So if your location is already in an area where “broadband” is available you may never see service from starlink.

I just did the lithium upgrade. Combining the two banks will depend on the the type of starter battery’s you have. If they are agm the charge profiles is close to lithium that a battery combiner will work I use the magnum SBC it limits the draw from any charge source to 30 amps. This allows me to charge both directions depending on what I am doing at the time. if you have standard lead starting battery’s you will need 2 dc/dc charger one for one direction and one for the other. Or you can use a standard battery charger when not driving off the inverter to charge the chassis. My understanding is not to start while the boost switch is engaged with lithium house batteries but what you can do is boost to charge the starter battery’s for like 20 min then disconnect the boost and start. The boost will charge the starter battery’s usually very fast from the lithium. my genny starts from my chassis battery’s so no issues there I prefer that so if my house batteries get to low I can still start the genny. I don’t know how you would convert your genny starting battery’s.

Grampy we should get together and compare notes. my gauges are all over the place I can increase and decrease my engine temp by changing the brightness of my dash lights. I have been using BlueFire for what I call my true info but some of them work some times and not other times mes on BlueFire. a buddy has a spare silver leaf cable and I think I am going to hook that up for some comparisons. My trip Tex is also flakey. My guess for both of us is bad grounds. In the dash one of these days in need to tear into it.

Davenport is doing the work although he has decided that after my job is done he is out of the rv business. He got a big commercial client and does not have time for the rv’s any more. good to hear I have someone that others have recommended.

tires are new I live in phoenix and have never been west of Texas and are not full time so FL is a bit out of the way.

I posted this at Irv2 but have not had much luck. I had done on my 2000 exe 40’ 8 new air bags (tag bags were fine) 4 new front shocks shepperd box replaced with trw from weller my current issue is a pull to the right I am also unable to turn the wheel right unless I am rolling forward or backwards. It will turn full right on gravel or grass but not pavement. This was a case even before the box swap I was hopping the box would fix it. the shop did not fully center the pitman arm I know because I get 2-3/4 turn left and 2-1/4 turn right and they can not get the steering wheel straight. they said an alinement would fix of course it did not. The shop now has it back to fix the index of the pitman arm. any other suggestions on the pull (if not the index)? and any idea on the unable to turn right?