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Mocephus

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Everything posted by Mocephus

  1. I installed these. Bright white. They have worked well so far: https://a.co/d/gmmEVLf
  2. I installed it on my DD60 three years ago when we first purchased our '05 Sig. I noticed a significant improvement in acceleration from a stop. I do not know if there was a change on engine temp only because I didn't document it before the install. I saw no noticeable difference in mpg.
  3. My front air pressure gauge on my ‘05 Sig was also acting wonky. Sometimes it worked and other times it took warming up to get it to start registering. Mine was not linked to a low air pressure warning or buzzer so I believe you may have an air leak as well as the well know issues with that FARIA gauge.
  4. UPDATE: Issue Resolved I pulled the cabinet panel and first connected an extension cord to the TV plug, bypassing the cutoff module. That didn’t resolve it. Then I started checking all of the connections to the splitter and booster switch. Sure enough, just as a member on a different forum had suggested, I found that one of the coax connections on the booster switch was very loose. Tightened it up and that resolved the issue. I also tightened up all of the other coax connections while I was in there. I would have never guessed that a poor coax connection would in any way be related to house lights interfering with a cable TV signal. Who knew. Thanks to all!
  5. I do have an OTA amp that also connects to the incoming cable feed. I'm not sure of the maker. It's behind a panel which is a bit of a pain to remove. Sounds like that may be the problem. I have determined that there are only 4 light circuits that interfere with the cable signal...the main living area overhead light shown in the video, the dining overhead light, the driver overhead light and the passenger overhead light. No other light switches create the interference. I'm guessing they are all on the same circuit with the OTA amp. I'll have to pull the panel and get a part number for the amp. On another forum others have suggested I plug the TV into a different AC outlet via an extension cord, to see if the issue is related to the TV disable switch, which turns off the TV when the engine is started, so I'll do that too when I open the panel. I'll also connect the incoming cable TV coax directly to the cable box and bypass the amp to see if it eliminates the channel interference. I think your suggestion is more likely the cause. Thank you!
  6. Hello friends, today while at a campground with cable TV, we discovered that if we turn on certain lights, we would completely lose our cable signal on every channel (like in the attached video) and other lights would make the channel signals sketchy. All lights are LED. Has anyone ever experienced this phenomenon? ’05 Sig IMG_4845.MOV
  7. Below is a similar model of the temperature monitor I purchased. I put one sensor on DS and one on PS of the wet bay, and one outside the coach. I placed the base station inside the living area of the coach. I programmed alarms to be sent to my phone if any of the sensors reach 35 F. I've had the system for a year and have not yet replaced the battery in any of the sensors. Very cool system with a lot of features. https://ambientweather.com/amws3000x3.html .
  8. I don’t winterize mine because we sometimes travel during the colder months. Instead, I put a couple of space heaters inside the coach and a small one in the wet bay to supplement the bay heater. Then I monitor the inside temp and bay temps with wireless temperature sensors that I can monitor from anywhere.
  9. Beautiful find! You’ll love the DD60!
  10. Be sure to get it professionally inspected by a certified NRVIA inspector. They will find things that you won’t and that the seller may not even know about. They can handle the analysis for your engine, transmission and generator fluids too which is vitally important. We spent a few hundred dollars on getting ours inspected and it literally saved us thousands in repairs that the dealer had to fix. It also gives you great leverage when negotiating the final price. Money absolutely we’ll spent!
  11. I have the Flo Rite battery watering system on our FLA batteries. It makes maintaining the water in the batteries super easy. It would be a great addition to your new battery bank. https://www.flow-rite.com/filter-by-type/pro-fill-clampless-tubing-installation/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JanBhCPARIsAJpXTx6w_pZw89YTe0YjMX5V5JJbBsm-sCkxwyT0eXboNUrMaZxVJLj9zOQaAsHfEALw_wcB
  12. Yes, I find them effective and really easy to use. Use a heat gun, not a flame.
  13. Check to make sure it’s downward travel does not go into the window seal. Mine did and caused excessive drag.
  14. I’ve used them Ray. Fast and easy. Join the wires in the middle, dissolve the solder with a heat gun and you instantly have a soldered connection sealed in shrink tubing. Pretty snazzy.
  15. When you find the one you like, make sure you have it inspected by an NRVIA certified inspector. They will find things that even the seller may not know about. Also be sure to have the inspector conduct a fluid analysis on engine oil and coolant, and transmission fluid. Don’t forget the fluid analysis on the generator too. We did all of these when we purchased ours and for a few hundred dollars, it saved us thousands in repairs that the dealer had to eat. It’s also a great negotiating tool on the final price! Happy shopping!
  16. Yes, I’ve noticed the same thing.
  17. Hi Tom, I’ve used these guys before. Very helpful over the phone in matching connectors. Moe https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/automotive-connectors.html
  18. Hi Chip, I recently did a brake system check with the help of Frank and Tom, our site Administrators. They provided the comprehensive brake system checks cited below. Not sure how long it is taking your system to build, but the Compressor Build-up Test below will guide you on what is acceptable. Motorhome Air Brake Pre-Trip Check Step 1 – Secure Motorhome 1) IMPORTANT - Chock rear wheels. 2) Visually inspect air brake components. 3) Start engine. Monitor air pressure. At >100 psi (690 kpa), shut off engine. 4) Retract leveling jacks and then retract all slides (follow owner’s manual for correct order). Step 2 – Park Control Valve (Park Brakes) With engine shut down and key in “Run” position. 5) Push in Park Control Valve to release parking brake. 6) Open air system drains (should be 2 or 3) to bleed off air. 7) Monitor air pressure. a. Confirm that low air pressure warning activates at ~ 60 psi (414 kpa). b. Confirm that Park Control Valve pops out at 20 – 40 psi (138 – 311 kpa). 😎 Shut drains. Step 3 – Supply Circuit You will need a watch or timer for this step. 9) Start engine and run at fast idle (1200 – 1500 rpm). a. On some coaches, turn on cruise control and then push set button. 10) Perform Compressor Build-up Test. a. When pressure reaches 50 psi (345 kpa), mark time. b. Confirm low air warning shuts off (resets) at 60 psi (414 kpa). c. When pressure reaches 90 psi (621 kpa), mark the time. d. Time between 10a and 10c must be less than 3 minutes. 11) Confirm governor cut-out and cut-in pressure. a. Build up air pressure to system maximum. b. Pressure should hold at 120 – 135 psi (828 – 931 kpa). You should hear a brief release of air that signifies the governor has stopped building air. Note/record pressure. c. Pump service brakes to reduce system air pressure. d. Pressure should fall by 15 – 25 psi (103 – 172 kpa) BELOW cut-out pressure observed in step 11b before starting to increase. Note: check owner’s manual for normal range if actual values differ from above standards. Step 4 – Air System Leaks 12) Push in park control valve (release park brake). 13) Turn off engine. Note/record pressure. 14) Depress and firmly hold brake pedal down for 2 minutes. a. Confirm that air pressure does not drop more than 4 psi (28 kpa). 15) Release brake pedal and pull park control valve to apply park brakes. Page 1 of 2 Motorhome Air Brake Pre-Trip Check Step 5 – Service Brake Response 16) Start engine. Ensure air system pressure is within normal operating range. 17) Release park brake. 18) Set automatic slack adjusters. a. Step hard on brake pedal and depress fully, then release. b. Repeat 3 – 4 times to ensure slack adjusters are properly adjusted. 19) Remove wheel chocks. 20) Perform brake response test. a. Depress and hold down brake pedal. b. Put motorhome in gear. c. With brake pedal depressed, push accelerator pedal to ensure motorhome does not move forward. d. Release accelerator and pull park control valve to engage park brake. e. Push accelerator pedal to ensure motorhome does not move forward. f. Release accelerator and put motorhome in neutral. 21) Shut off engine. Do not operate motorhome if one or more of the following are true:  Park control valve did not pop out at 20 – 45 psi (138 – 311 kpa).  It took longer than 3 minutes to build up pressure from 50 to 90 psi (345 to 621 kpa).  Governor cut-in and/or cut-out pressure was out of allowed range.  System leakage is greater than 4 psi (28 kpa) in 2 minutes.  Motorhome failed the brake response test (service brake or park brake).
  19. Hi Dick, what are your thoughts about those weights?
  20. FINAL UPDATE - So, what caused the high temperature alarms on our inner drive axle tires…well that remains a mystery. BUT the process of eliminating the possibilities has been pretty insightful and educational with Frank and Tom’s guidance. Improper Tire Inflation? Nope, all pressures were acceptable with no cold pressure variances from one morning to the next and no major unacceptable pressure changes after a couple of hours on the road. Taking the advice of Tom and Frank, today during our drive day, I asked my wife to record tire pressure and temperatures every hour. We did this so we could learn what is “normal” for our tires so that any significant variations in the future, will grab our attention. I’ll be crunching those numbers later to identify our “norm”. Brakes dragging? Nope. The comprehensive air brake test that Frank and Tom provided, proved that the brakes were not the cause of the excess heat. Confession: I have a less comprehensive air brake test that I printed and laminated and placed in the pocket by the driver’s seat…and there it stayed but for once a year at the beginning of each camping season. If the brakes were dragging, I would not have known it and the potential damage could have been disastrous. Bad Bearings? Nope. Not likely since the inner tires on both ends of the drive axle dispatched temperature alarms. It would be a real long shot for both sets of bearings to fail at the same time. Following Tom and Frank’s advice I purchased a laser thermometer and checked wheel temperatures during a fuel stop today. All good. Drive and tag temps were right at 125 F and the steers were right at 110 F. The rear end (aka “pumpkin”) was 202 F. Overloaded drive axle? Nope but not perfect. A visit to the CAT scales showed the following: Front - 14,100 (15,160 rating) Drive - 23,140 (23,000 rating) Tag - 6260 (10,000 rating) After adding 5 PSI to the tag via the pressure regulator: Front - 14,200 Drive - 21,860 Tag - 7,380 Still room for a little more tweaking of the tag pressure. So, while the cause of the alarms is still a mystery it has been a great learning experience courtesy of our forum’s moderators. The depth of their knowledge and their scientific approach to sorting out issues is amazing. Frank and Tom…thank you for helping me and thank you for all that you do to make this forum so valuable!
  21. David thank you for that. Great info!!
  22. Tom, thank you for the time on the phone this evening. Your insights were very helpful! I did go through my TPMS pressure settings tonight and they were set as recommended by the manufacturer (TST)…-10% and +25%. I adjusted the hi pressure to +20% per your recommendation. The high temp setting was at the factory default of 158 F and I left it at that. Instead of breaking up our stay here at Hilton Head to take most of a whole day to prepare the rig for departure, drive to the closest CAT Scales, go through the various weighing scenarios, then drive back and set up the rig again, we’re going to instead do all of that on our way to our next campground on Thursday. That way we’ll not risk getting stuck at a repair shop and not making it back to our amazing site here at HH. If we have to lose camping nights for repairs, I’d rather it be from the next campground. I’ll post my findings once I get it weighed. Thank you again!
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