SteveJ

If you are like me, the refrigerator is on the GFI outlet. Mine is in the sink space and is prone to trip

Everyone seems to avoid answering the question or offering some other options. I have the Marcell and think very highly of it. I chose the one with AT&T service and it has worked in all states, even Alaska. Of course, if you go 'off grid' for lots of time, you are going to have problems with anything. But we wanted the security of knowing if there where issues when we left our dog in the coach. It notifies us if the campground electric goes off or if the generator shuts down (as it has!). It also notifies us if the temp goes above a certain point (which it has). It sends notices to both of our phones (not AT&T). And we used it for 5 months during the summer - they have plans for partial or yearly. I would recommend it without question. We did have issues when traveling in the Yukon and British Columbia but we had many issues with cell service and certainly no internet there as well. Hope this helps your decision making . .

Didn't do the job myself - went to Indiana to have it put in. 12v compressor and it has worked great for over 2 years now.

Just finished up another 5 day rally with my converted Norcold 1200. I had JR install the 12v compressor and I can't be any happier. My seals were good and it maintained -3/26 on setting 3 all week. I had to run a heavier 12v line from the batteries (either 10 or 12ga - can't remember which) and I went an additional step by putting a shutoff switch and 25amp circuit breaker in the new 12v line. Now I did have my awning out this week which does help keep the temps a little cooler but coming home and sitting in the hot sun, it is still +1/39 on the same #3 setting. And I have gone 36 hours and still had plenty of battery left (4 - 6volt). I'm a very satisfied JR fan!

Yes, wildly different depending . . Mine went up almost $1000 when I moved to Florida. And that is part time with coach stored indoors when not in use. Did go down about $100 dollars when I moved away from the coast. And that is for a 2004 Holiday Rambler Vacationer, with Progressive. Anyway, about $1500 right now with renewal this summer.

The wiring diagram you are referring to explains the aux start switch (on the dash), not the cutoff, as least that is what mine shows. The cutoff is not covered, either house or engine. And we certainly don't have an engine preheat so the diagram probably relates to DPs with something 'like' it on gas models. Again, nothing that Monaco published is always correct for a Vacationer. Not sure if you have ever been to the REV factory and see them cutting/splicing the same wiring harness for 5/6 different models but I'm guessing Monaco did the same thing and them tried to document after the fact. My Vacationer seems to have another larger black wire along with the cable wrap at the cutoff switch - not sure if it might be inside the wire wrap? But mine looks like it is all original. Those files were pictures but when I use air drop of messages to move from my iPhone to Mac Air, they use that format. Resend as jpegs. I'll PM you and I'm on workhorse also

Welcome to another Vacationer Owner! Not many of us on this site . . mostly DP's - at least the active ones Your switch probably 'broke apart' on a previous owner. Mine did shortly after I bought it in 2018. They were poorly built and storing anything in the FR basement put pressure on that switch. I lost the house one also, both of which I replaced with marine grade switches. The wiring is as you see it. I just 'transferred' to the new switch with only a little tugging since the switch was bigger/heavier. It looks as if they are split - 2 & 2. I have the 2004 HR/LaPalma wiring diagrams - only partially helpful and not always accurate. And it doesn't cover the Engine side wiring at all. Monaco left it to Workhorse or Ford to provide something, which they don't. I have 4 years of hunting down issues on a vacationer/workhorse so don't be afraid to email me anytime IMG_0004.HEIC IMG_0007.HEIC Sorry, I noticed the pictures didn't come through as jpegs. Sometimes the happens on my Mac when transferring by messages. If they don't open for you, let me know and I will try to post them another way.

Hi Bill, The monitor is probably worth about $50 to Me as a spare. Not to insult you with a low price but mine is still working so it would be a spare. Thanks, Steve

More than the distance, I work on hours driving - about 6-7 hours per day. If it is all on Interstate, ok, make good miles. Mountain, back roads?? I'm retired, so I plan on taking lots of time to get somewhere with 'slop' built in for unexpected. - Steve

I know some people have not been happy with the 'Amish Cooling" unit but I think that 'depends'! The recent replacement models are much different and are actually compressors types, not absorption units. I replaced mine with their 12v compressor unit and could not be happier!! Coach is sitting outside in 90 degree heat and is -2 and 34. Have had it in the Florida sun for 4 months of over 100 degrees and it still stays the same temp. I went this way when the Norcold stopped cooling after trying many things. As long as the seals are still good, the 12v or 120v replacements are great. I have one with the 12v so we could dry camp, if wanted. I have 4 6 volt batteries and it will last more than 24 hours before having to run the generator to charge batteries. I do wish they offered a 12v/120v unit like I have on my boat but they so far have not done that. I chose to not replace the Norcold with a residential unit because: my wife really loves the matching front panels on the existing one, I don't have an inverter and it would have required major upgrade to install one and it was a MAJOR problem to change the configuration necessary to install something that might fit. So I travelled to Indiana to have the 12v conversion done (didn't want to do it myself although doable) and the total was shy of $1400, not including getting the coach there. Done in less than three hours and no changes required. I'm an example of a happy customer.

I can only report what worked for me. I went with the JC Refrigeration 12v unit (compressor). Setting 2 is where I keep it - in Florida with 95-100 degree Temps outside. 0 to -3 freezer and 33 -34 in fridge. Did it last year and am not at all sorry. Drove to Indiana to have him install. On all the time, does not run the batteries down (4-6 volt) and now completely safe for those worried about fire. Didn't want the hassle of taking windows out and redoing all the surround - if it would even fit so I just ignore those people that say the ONLY way to go is residential. I have no inverter and didn't want all the cost involved to install. 12v works great.

I have a motorcycle trailer with rubber valve stems using TST system (flow thru) with 12,000 miles towing. Also a tow dolly and Lexus with same valve stems - over 10,000 miles, no issues. And now a 2020 Equinox with the same TST system waiting to be towed another 10,000 miles. Non issue!!

No, that is 7amps dc per hour. Since I have over 400amps dc available, I don’t worry about overnighting without hookups

I'm sure you will get a lot of replies to replace with residential. I did not! My wife really likes the wood exterior that matches the coach and doesn't like the metal look of a residential in the coach. So, I was like you, seals where good and refrigerator was in good shape. I took it to Indiana and had JC replace the entire cooling unit with their 12v compressor unit. I don't have an inverter but wanted the refrigerator on all the time so the 12v made the most sense for me. Keeps both Freezer and Refrigerator plenty cold: zero to -3 and 35-37 at all times on a 5 or 6 setting. And it works for boon docking - draws 7 to 13amps (DC) so runs 24 hours without battery recharge. One year/20,000 miles working great. Steve

On RVupgrades website, they call it a ESCO Lyght transfer switch - guess they are one and the same. Perhaps ESCO stands for Elkhart Supply Corporation?

second (or third) the thought that the shutoff is below the refrigerator - my panel was held on by hinges on both sides! Had to take off 4 screws and it swung open for access to the cutoff.

Hi, Finally got to my coach and found the electrical diagram for the steps. Had to break it into two scans since the book is spiral bound and 12x18. Will attach them to this reply. It claims there are 3 fuses involved in working steps. Fuses F1, F2 and F19. F1 is 25amp and is labeled as the 'step motor'. At 25amp, I can believe that. F2 is labeled as 'step switch' and is a 7.5amp fuse. I believe this one deals directly with the switch in question and should be checked to see that it is not blown. I have yet to understand what gives with the vacuum pump coming from the step connection but it has a fuse also (F19) All these fuses are in your front passenger basement (right behind front wheel) and in a black box mounted on the back wall of the basement. The wiring diagram can be used to check voltages on the proper wires before it reaches the step module. Hope this helps! HR Step Electrical 1.pdf HR Step Electrical 2.pdf

you are welcome - we LOVE the Vacationer - have put 39,000 miles on it the last two years.

accessory mode means the key has been turned toward start but not all the way that starts the engine. You need the key in this position for the jacks to deploy/return. Sometimes there is an additional 'mode' (called accessory also) if you turn the key the opposite way. I think in that position some things might work (radio?) but not much. I think that position was created to save battery drain. I will check my electrical diagrams but I don't think that switch has a separate fuse. Too bad you don't have a light next to the lock switch. I didn't know mine was connected to it since it never came on. When I replaced the light (just for the heck of it), it started coming on when the lockout switch was on. I think it burned out because PO used it a lot. I don't use it much because steps stay in out position as long as the engine is not running when lockout is in off position which is the way I like it.

I am confused a bit but - The Steps will not retract if the door is open and your ignition is turned on. It is a safety feature that when you 'close' the door with the engine running, the steps will always close. Nothing you do with the lockout switch will override this behavior. The steps will always close with engine running. period. The lockout switch in one position should allow the stairs to remain out when you close the door as long as the engine is NOT running or in the accessory mode. In the other mode, it will either remain out or in, depending on where they were when you flipped the switch. It they were closed when you turned on the switch (the lockout light comes on in mine), they will stay closed. if you want them to open, you will have the flip the switch and close/open the door. If the stairs were in the out position when you flip the switch to on, they will stay out unless you turn the ignition switch on. At least, that is how mine work. Your switch may be bad if they don't work this way . .

Yes, I have the 3 step Kwikee steps. I've had motor/gear problems with mine. Couldn't find the correct motor, the one recommended by Kwikee doesn't work!. Turns out we need a motor with a gear that also locks into the base plate. I have not had issues with the ignition override - it has always worked, even when I don't want it to. (like putting down the jacks that requires the ignition switch to be in the on position - in come the steps!). I have had issues with the lockout switch - it doesn't always work as expected. So are you saying you have to use the lockout switch to retract your steps because they won't come in when you turn on the key? How do they work and what position?

I have a 2004 Vacationer - it only uses propane (12v for fan). We carry two size electric heaters and they have been fine (when plugged into shore power). Only use propane if boondocking . . .

I think you will be hard pressed to find anything there. Even the base park is only May to Oct. It is VERY cold and windy during the long winter months at Fort Drum! You will find it hard to keep an RV close to warm even with propane heat running the whole time (not to mention, very expensive) and the water pipes will freeze. That's why they all close mid October. In the whole state of Vermont, I think there are only two or three places that try to stay open during the winter. Upstate NY will be the same thing. And if you do find something, be prepared to shovel off your roof of deep snow. Watertown area is notorious for lake effect snow! Good luck finding something . .

I bought the Magna Shade this January and they are great! Easy to take on/off. 77 year's old and I can do it by myself without any help. Is it easier to put up with two people, yes but I wanted to be sure I could do it myself. Yes, the upper corner magnets are stronger, not much, if any bigger except thicker maybe. Easy to initially install but never get the magnets near each other!! We went with a brown, med color that comes close to matching our coach color. Don't think color makes it any hotter/cooler.

Can't seem to locate or even know what part I am looking for and neither do any of the parts dealers I have asked. Can anyone identify what this part is? It is part of the screen door latching but NOT part of the latch itself. It is brush like and closes over the outside door latch. It is from a 2004 Holiday Rambler Vacationer and worn out. I need to replace it but don't know what to call it/look for it. Thanks for any help identifying! Steve