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K9 Exec

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Posts posted by K9 Exec

  1. Hi Bob, I believe you are talking about the air dryer. Haldex makes them and have a few different models, I know this is asking a lot but- if you have a picture, I can give you the part #. As a man of my word, I owe you a donut... 99 out of 100 times of not building air or 'rapid' air leak will be your governor. Your governor was nearing the end of its service life so consider that "preventative maintenance" and potentially a breakdown on the road, and of course it would happen to be at not so convenient time nor place.  🙂 

     

  2. Hi Bob, I would bet a dollar to a donut your air governor gave up the ghost. The unloader fails so you either slowly get to 120 psi or you get nothing. You are at the later... They are cheap and relatively easy to replace, if you still need help- send a msg on here and I can guide you if you would like to replace it yourself. You could be back on road in 1 hr tops once you get it to replace.

     

    Two other things I would do prior- disconnect the discharge line from the  compressor to check and make sure you are getting pressure. If you put your thumb on the end and can't hold it there because of the pressure- your compressor is good. I would also check the lines to the dryer, to make sure you don't have any leaks. When did you replace your dryer cartridge? I always recommend Sep/Oct of every year, depending on how much use you get. 

    Best of luck sir!

    • Like 3
  3. Hello Steve,

    I have installed 3 of the Webasto diesel fired heaters, and so far they have been awesome performers. The airtop 2000 ST (they also make them for gas units) are a quick install and require little maintenance. They only issue we ever hear about is after the diesel sits in the fire chamber over the summer and the unit tries to fire 3 times, it will go into "timeout" mode, I believe its called. But that is an easy fix. If you are looking to put it into a large coach, I would recommend going with a 5.5kw or larger, then duct it if you wish, but you won't be happy with ducting a 2000. It has a 3-4" fan which does a heck of a job for a 20' coach, it will roast you out once up to temp and is very quiet.  But for a 40'+, not so much. Use the included 4' flexible high temp hose, cut it down to length, duct it to your desired location and enjoy. I would recommend getting and having on hand their tiny, over priced replacement fuel filters because they do clog up, and fast if you get bad fuel. 

    Overall, it is a straight forward install. You may have to tap into your fuel tank if you don't have a spare port to tap off of, It does come with a 24-30" fuel pickup (if memory serves correctly) to make your own pickup, if you so desire. You will have to insert it from the top, we had to drop the fuel tank which was not fun but doable... It draws so little fuel, I was surprised when we did a test with a 1 gal container. It lasted over 14 hrs with temps in the 20's. Yes, their coach was insulated well but still, that is amazing. If you are looking at supplemental heating once the coach is up to temp and it is not below freezing, in my opinion- you should be able to maintain current temp pretty well with very few caveats. If you go with the larger 5.5-6.5kw, you will have no issues. 

    Best of luck, and please let us know what you decide. 🙂 

     

    • Like 2
  4. Hey Dean, disregard the ‘7th injector’, we work on Detroit’s as well and they have the 7th injector, that is to spray diesel/ DEF fluid (urea anmonia) into the DPF. Just going off of memory for that repair. I’m getting ready to speak with my diesel tech this morning and will get back with you, I’m hoping we have some value to add to the conversation. 🙂

    • Thanks 1
  5. Mr. Tom, what a surprise. I kind of figured you were bird doggin'. 🙂 I haven't heard from you in forever, and thank you for chiming in. I sure hope I don't have to eat crow on this one, lol. It has been a few yrs since that unit I referenced came in, but that was one of the trickiest ones I had seen. He does have a slew of other  issues, but the one that I hate the most is anything to do with DPF systems. Detroit, Cat, Cummins, Mercedes are all different and have their little intricacies. We can only hope he gets it to a good shop. 

  6. I agree with you 100%, but this is "post covid times" where techs decide if they want to come in to work, what they will work on, if the DC has parts etc. These are NOT normal times. He replaced the VGT which tells us a few things, but has a lot going on to say the least. Thanks for understanding that he was asking for help, and I put my $.02 in. 🙂

    I only have 17 yrs in the diesel repair industry, but my 65 year old diesel tech has been doing this since I was in diapers. I sit back, watch, and learn. Btw Frank, you are a plethora of knowledge, I found you guys back when I bought my coach and had some Monaco specific issues. This group is one of a kind! I miss Tom Cherry, you and a few others posting what seemed to be, daily. I would wake up and see 10 hits on my phone from this site. I truly enjoy the camaraderie on here. 🙂

    Well Dean, I hope this at least has given you an Idea of where to go from here.

    Best of luck, and we will be anxiously waiting for your reply!

  7. Hi Frank, I am relatively new to the group and don't know your background other than you are a legend around these parts, you are always spot on, always have great advice 🙂,  and I have the utmost respect for you. I am not disagreeing with your hypothesis, I just didn't explain the whole process in the reply to keep it short.  I am guessing they have done that last go around, but I am willing to eat crow on this one... We had one come in with the almost identical issue, HEST light on every time it tried to regen, stage 5, etc. I don't think he would be best served by going back to the same shop, IMHO. Whenever we throw the laptop on, we always do that amongst other things but the forced regeneration is usually the tell tale indicator. That one we had in would show that is was doing a  'passive' regen 5-6 times a day to the point it would start to derate. He brought in in and when we started a 'forced' regen- no dice, it puked.

    The unit really wasn't regenerating 5-6 times a day, the dummy lights would all come on in the cluster for the customer. So, that's why I say get it into a new shop, let them throw it on the laptop and start the diag process, with a new set of eyes. 🙂

    Again, not disagreeing and but willing to bet a dollar to a donut the last shop didn't do their due diligence. 

    • Like 1
  8. Hi Dean,

    If I were a betting man, I would say you have one of the possible following issues that I would address with a new shop:

    1. Have them drop the DPF, if you haven't had it done in a year or two (never hurts since we have these crazy devices downstream now...) and have them clean/bake it. If you are dumping fuel/DEF ( I believe yours is diesel, but I could be wrong) in the DPF and it isn't burning, you could really be clogged up.

    2. Check the sensors- I know, you have already done that. Here is why I say that: Once you bring it to a different shop- they can throw it on the laptop and do a 'forced Regen' and at that point the software does a "self check" and if you have issues, the software and tech "should" catch some of the faults that the previous shop had not and can correct it at that point.

    3. It could be a bad "7th" injector (for the DPF), a harness that has gone bad, or a number of things I haven't mentioned. 

    Also, I don't know your area otherwise I could suggest a reputable shop in the midwest but I would say find a class 8 (semi repair shop) that works on Cat, Cummins, Detroit, etc. Make some calls to find out if they have a scan tool/laptop that will work for you. I would call around 2-3 truck repair shops to get Diag quotes and find out what their 2 hr minimum is, etc. It won't be cheap but I can tell you I would probably find a new set of eyes to look at your ongoing problem.

    Best of luck and plz let us know the outcome!

    • Like 1
  9. They are a pretty amazing product in my opinion. Isn’t it nice to reuse a product over and over and know it will continue to do its job? Great quality, Made in the USA. That’s one product I recommend and know it won’t come back to bite me. 
     

    Have you noticed longer wear life of the tire compared prior to using them?
     

    Nick 

    • Like 1
  10. Hi Bob,

    I would totally agree that was Murphy at work! 🙂 The OEM relays were really good and 20 yrs ago Tyco was one of the best. We used them all the time with ZERO failures. I bought out the last case from my distributor and have a few hundred left. They have since been gobbled up then subsequently rebranded a few times over. 
     

    One thing I would caution anyone on would be using the ones off of Amazon that you can’t pronounce. I had to get a few in a hurry away from home with none locally available and decided to get what would be delivered next day- the weight on the ‘el cheapo’s’ were half that of the regular 30/40 amp relays we always had used .  I didn’t even use them because in my opinion, I would be expecting failure. With my curiosity getting the better of me,  I opened one up ‘just to see’ the quality (or lack there of) and boy was I surprised!The wiper, contacts, and the it was constructed was pretty poor. The rating supposedly was 30/40 amps but I would guess 10 amps were more realistic. 😞 

    Nick 
     

     

    • Like 1
  11. I don't have any experience with Balance Master, but I can tell you that the Centramatics actively balance and I can also vouch for guys running they on all axles on semi's as well. 1M + miles with no issues, and they seem to get more mileage out of the steers as well as drive axles. Just my $.02 worth. 🙂

    In this category-whatever you choose is better than doing nothing at all.

    Thanks,

    Nick

    • Like 2
  12. HI Ed, 100% agree with your friends advice. I put them on a unit that we couldn't ever get a slight vibration out of, no matter how many times we balanced the wheel, got it to balanced to 0.00 and still had an issue. The steer set was about $550, that took care of the problem. I am a firm believer in Centamatics, but the cost is worth the investment. I have also had customers used the beads with 'okay' results, that option is a lot less and is good for folks that don't want to drop that kind of money. I have put on a few sets of Centramatics and have never had any complaints. Please let us know what you decide and how you like them!

    Nick

    • Like 1
  13. Hi Bob, 

    No sir, all relays are not created equal. Bosch relays, in my opinion are far superior compared to any I have used over the last 25 years. I don’t mean to sound ‘elitist’ but, if you get a German made relay vs a Chinese made relay- chances are you will regret it, and will probably be at the most inopportune time. 
     

    Good luck!

    Nick 

    • Like 2
  14. Okay, I have an $8.00 solution for you. What I have found to work is a cheap siphon pump from Harbor freight, you can also get a 3 or 5 gal bucket to drain the water into. Here is the info on it: PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE Multi-Use Transfer Pump Ski: 63144

    1. Remove the drain hose from the drain pipe, then stick one end of the red hose of the siphon pump into it as far as it will go. Keep that end elevated above the door- depending on water level, it may spill out. 

    2. Place the other end in the 3-5 gal bucket, give the manual pump a few pumps then the water will start flowing on its own. 

    If you can/want to pull the machine out ( if you have the space, you can do it without the pump). I like the pump for a quick pump out in an emergency.

    This will get your washer drained so you can get your clothes out, I have the service manual at the office and can get you part #'s. It is either a discontinued pump which I have a replacement # for, or a switch. It is rarely anything else but I have been wrong before. 🙂

    Best of luck, 

    Nick

     

    • Like 1
  15. This response will probably draw ire and controversy, so please know this is not directed at anyone- just my $.02 worth. I am not trying to persuade anyone or start any trouble, so please don't take it that way. Tone and emotion are hard to discern via text/email. 🙂

    1. LifePO4 is an amazing chemistry, hands down. It blows Flooded lead acid, AGM, NiMh and most other chemistries away as far as performance goes. The cost is another story. I remember when Nickel Metal Hydride batteries started becoming readily available in 1994-1995 commercially, the same conversations were being had. Whenever something new comes out, the cost is significantly higher then drops by 25-50% once it catches on, in my experience. The cost is the biggest downside with going lithium, period. If it has a BMS (Battery Management System) built in, it is (from the manufacturer) typically safe. There are a few big names out there that are still not UL approved but people still buy them and assume the risk, because they are generally safe and have proven to be good. Not that I would ever say go out and do this, but I have seen a crowbar (short) test on a bank of these batteries, I ran the other way when the engineer said 'watch this,' nothing happened. Each of the BMS in the batteries did their job, then once the short was removed- voila! The batteries were alive again with zero damage. Try that with a SLA, AGM, FLA and see what happens...

    2. I was a volunteer firefighter when the Toyota Prius was in its infancy with the 'Hybrids.' Sadly, one of our guys was killed while responding to a Prius fire which changed the industry for the better, after his death and a lawsuit, we were able to get all kinds of resources to smaller departments, but the best was the training. These batteries contain a lot of energy and do not mix well with water. A typical car fire takes about 500 gallons of water to contain and extinguish, from my understanding regarding containment with the new Tesla battery once they catch- you let them burn. Water will only help fuel the fire, and will definitely start one if a car is submerged. Source: Hurricane Ian Sept 30, 2022. St. Pete Fl. It was all over the news, the car was submerged then once the salt water receded- it was barbecue time. 

    3. As a private pilot, I would not install a Lithium Iron Phosphate batt in my aircraft, yet. With a plane it is all about weight and CG. The current batt weighs 81 lbs, a LifePO4 is 34, a weight savings of 47 lbs, which means more cargo or more fuel I can carry. 🙂 With an RV, I feel comfortable installing and running the lithium batts with solar charging them. I have been doing this for 20 years and have never seen so much hate for one item, people either love them or hate them. I have found some of the folks that look at the initial cost, have immediate hatred and seem to come up with ways to steer folks away from them. "You know Joe, those batteries have been known to spontaneously catch on fire, and if you are sleeping, you won't make it out alive." I worry more about LP and fire. Why you ask- because I had a total loss fire from LP. I lost a puppy in the fire, it was devastating.

     I know guys that put together grade B cells, use china cheap BMS' and hope for the best, all to save a few dollars. I won't do that for myself or my customers. Not trying to name any big name companies, but one that has done it right in my opinion is BattleBorn out of NV. I know a few guys out there that work behind the scenes and have said there have only been a handful of issues with their batteries, most being the BMS going dead. They ship out a new battery to the installer or customer when they call with an issue, then never hear from them again because the issues are so rare. They do have a 10 yr warranty. I have owned them, I do like them other than price- but they do use high end BMS and cells. No garbage. 

    The weight saving is great, they take abuse unlike FLA, AGM, SLA, etc., and you can run them down to 0% (which means there is 10 % left to keep the BMS running) without damaging them, no boiling-and generally no issues. Other than a steep investment. 

    Okay, I am off of my soapbox. You guys have been great to me, you are my family on the road. If I offended anyone, don't take it personally- I am just trying to help out where I see fit. 

     

    • Like 2
  16. Hi Ed, good advice on the forum- you won't go wrong. 🙂

    I will add this to the post: I would use full synthetic (any brand) 75w90 gear oil and call it a day. I have a friend in the lubrication analysis business that I trust and have seen the data. Pop the cap, add the oil to the add/full line right below the lip, replace the cap and you are good. You will be good until you have to add it again, which unless you have a leak should be never. Drain then refill  every 300,000-500,000 miles for commercial use or 3-5 years. I would not use dino in this application due to high heat and breakdown, the synthetic is the same cost so it is a win-win. You can buy a quart bottle with the cut top and will be good for both sides typically with a bit to spare. 🙂

    Best of luck!

    • Like 1
  17. Yes sir, I am glad you're going that route. Norcold's scare me... I preach solar all the time. You can really negate your current draw with solar input, with relatively low cost. Solar panels as well as solar charge controllers have come along way and have dropped in price with competition. Please post pics if you are able to, we all love to see the upgrades. I went through one laptop hard drive today with no luck, but will send you the pics if I can find them in the next few day. 

  18. That model (FFHT1425VV) draws approx. 3 amps and if the compressor runs 100% of the time, you would be at 30 amps dc x 24 hrs = 720. But that's not real world, your coach will be air conditioned, so that acts on your behalf to lower the cycle times. If that is anything like the Samsung as far as insulation goes, figure 50% duty cycle, or 360 amps. 600 AH of Lithium would be more than sufficient. I am pretty sure you will be pleasantly surprised with this upgrade, it will make a huge difference for you.

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