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DavidL last won the day on June 15 2020

DavidL had the most liked content!

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  • FirstName
  • Make
    S.O.B. (Some Other Brand)
  • Model
    Mountain Aire 4370
  • Year
  • City & State
    Metamora, MI

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  1. Replace it. With a good quality Milton or better. Lot of junkie air fittings around. BTW...what do you use it for? inflating tires? It's original purpose is for airing up during a tow....you can't possibly be getting towed that often!
  2. Air it up, put some properly rated jack stands under the chassis on solid ground, shimmy under with some soap water in a sprayer and soak down all the air components in search for the leak source. Then repair / replace whatever is leaking. There are no other real shortcuts to getting it resolved other than "shotgunning" parts that others have found broken on theirs.
  3. Not sure why the fluid level has to do with one Zone. The fluid services all zones. So that's not the issue. Look for issues with Zone A only: Zone A pump, thermostat, radiator, fans. You could swap parts from Zone to Zone to isolate: ie: take Zone B pump and put that to Zone A hoses. If Zone B thermostat calls for heat, then Zone A radiator should get hot. But before doing that, check the easy: Fans working and radiator clean on Zone A. Zone A thermostat calling for heat (you can see the lights on the Aquahot control unit to see which zone is calling for heat). Then
  4. If any of the zones / domestic water are hot, then the burner is doing it's job. Inspect and clean the radiators. Ensure the fans are all working when that zone is calling for heat. Feel the zone water hoses to see if they get hot when that zone is calling for heat. It's a possibility that the pump for the colder zones isn't working up to snuff, but typically they either work or don't work.
  5. Not quite following....the "pressure transducer" is this to feed data to the pressure gauge? If so, one doesn't really need a gauge to drive. Just cap off the line so it isn't leaking. PTC = Push to Connect fitting? It is very likely that HomeDepot and / or NAPA auto parts store have everything you need. If the line is off, how is there still 100 psi in the system? so, your kids are driving the RV and you aren't there and they are calling for assistance? Or the RV is with you and you are trying to drive it to them to help them with some project? Key is,
  6. I can't imagine it would take that long...
  7. Yes, the diagnostic port is connected to the CAN network. All of the CAN connected modules are accessible via the diagnostic port (typically engine ecu and transmission ecu and antilock brake module in an RV. Cars have tons more). You can check the diagnostic connector with an ohmeter. Should have 120ohms resistance between CAN and ground. Ideally you would have an oscilloscope to see the wave patterns. Do you have a scan tool? But generally, if it's running and driving, the CAN is working. The gauges are likely fed off of a CAN module that then feeds the gauges. If this module wa
  8. Well, I might have recommended to do a little, test, a little more, test again. To isolate where the issue is (it's still there).
  9. Enjoy the free odometer miles 🙂 I assume the gauges work via CAN communications. ie: digital signal. only takes one break in the wire for all to go away. When you turn ignition on...do the gauges make a full check sweep? Did they ever? That might give a clue if it's power or ground that is missing.
  10. Attach a picture of what "finger nail" cracks are. If it's Filon lifting, then that's a big problem. The RV OEMs were replacing complete sidewalls which is probably out of your scope of investment. Other than that, sanding down to the filon, prime, paint, clear. Which is a large expensive job.
  11. Looks like the adhesive was never put down well. Kinda is what it is. I would apply additional thick adhesive (caulk tube) like construction adhesive or ideally SikaFlex https://www.ellsworth.com/products/by-market/general-industry/sealants/polyurethane/sika-sikaflex-221-non-sag-polyurethane-sealant-gray-10.3-oz-cartridge/ You can apply heavy weights on the roof above the spar. If you do this on a hot day, then the old adhesive will soften up and allow the roof to lower more to the aluminum joist. don't walk on it after the weights are set for a few days until it's really dry
  12. Is the RV at the shop? can't they measure the tank?
  13. Connect a string to it and pull the hose out leaving the string to pull the new hose in. Easier said then done, but that's the idea. If it's a 50ft hose, figure $200 for a new one. You could call around to see if anyone does in field fixes of lines. Look for heavy equipment operator repair places. Possible to cut the old end off and hydraulically swage a new end on. Look to see if there is enough slack to do so.
  14. If the connection is tight, then take the hose out and bring it to a hydraulic line company. Sometimes NAPA makes up lines. Priced by the foot, per end.
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