DavidL

I assume Frank can't repair your old switch? Where did they go?

Ensure you are at the full mark using your old dipstick. Then whatever housing / dipstick you replace it with, that one (once calibrated) should also show full. Check it with engine warm, and stopped for many minutes to ensure all oil has expanded, circulated and stabilized. Fill to the full line using proper oil for the motor. Measure the old dipstick tube with a tape measure and note any bends to try to get close. If it's easy to remove, take it out and get diameter at engine end to ensure you get right diameter as well. Take a photo for bends next to tape measure. I would powerwash the motor and degrease before removing anything to help ensure no dirt enters the motor when the tube is removed. After you get the new one installed, check level. Calibrate (which usually means shortening the stick) until it shows full at similar temp / time off.

Without knowing specifically (specifics requires a schematic or lots of time to reverse engineer with a multimeter all of the connections) I would assume there are speaker leads AND power leads. And yes, typically Ground (typically black), Red (constant power typically) and Yellow (key on power typically). Plus a Reverse (maybe blue?) wire. But you really have to know and confirm with a multimeter what does what. Don't just match up colors because it's really common NOT to follow the above convention. Look downstream if there is any printing on those wires to indicate function.

In theory, you could smoothly and straight drive the RV onto a known flat / level pad (good luck finding that) and use a bubble level vertically kissing the sides of the sidewall and look for differences in angle of the tires / wheels. The tops should be slightly inboard (camber) compared to the bottom. If the Left is More camber (more of an angle from vertical) than the Right, then that would cause pull to the right. If different, then you would need to decide to straighten the left or put more camber into the right. And since the change requires some significant effort to loosen the very tight big bolts...you might as well go to a truck alignment shop to begin with. Note that some suspensions don't have camber / caster adjustment capability. Caster can also cause pull but is even harder to check without an alignment rack.

If the coach is pulling slightly, then it's a minor issue and it will be difficult to "see" the issue without the right tools (an alignment bay). Bring it to an alignment truck shop.

toe doesn't cause pull. Camber does. ensure your tire pressures are equal on same axles Ride height doesn't affect pull Steering box doesn't affect pull (just off center or looseness or tightness in turning wheel) Tires can cause pull, but they usually get that way due to an alignment problem or inflation problem.

the right tool looks like a scoop that is sharp that you insert into the urethane and pull to cut out the chunk of Urethane. https://www.gtglass.com/products/razorscraper-anti-scratch-winged-windshield-urethane-scraper-blade Then you clean with Prepsol. Then a primer specific to the new urethane. Then cut the nozzle on the urethane so it provides a smooth caulk joint (unlike whoever hacked yours) and put a smooth bead. Then, use a gloved finger and tool / smooth the urethane into the joint and make it cosmetic.

Bring it to a decent fabricator and have it welded / plated to be better than new

Thats a shock absorber that needs to be replaced. Do at least all 4 on that one axle. I would plan on doing all at once (all axles) if you don't know when they were last replaced. It's time and it will drive much better. Look at Koni then Bilstein.

Most of the time the sink bowl is glued to the countertop and then routed / sanded / polished so the parting line disappears. You could have the current bowl cut out and a new, larger stainless sink replace it. New sink has to be wider than the hole would be. If you look at the outside edges of the bowl, that will be close to the dimension of the new cutout.

Well since there are two stickers with completely different fluids on the same label area, I wouldn't trust either. Looks like ATF in your cup. My guess is it has 15w40 in the motor and that's what that sticker is for. Hydraulic fluid is generally ATF...consult the manual.

Level isn't the issue. Twisted chassis can be. That's where one leg is too high / low. Out of level is when two legs are not at the right height. Twisted chassis is a bigger stress on the RV for flooring and slides. But, take the popped tile out and inspect the subfloor like fasthobie16 is suggesting. If that looks clean, mold free and dry, then possibly chassis twist or something heavy walloped the top of the tile.

Many diesels are left in the fields for months / years and start right up. but personally, I would fire it up just to keep the fuel fresh in the system and not gummy that might clog the nozzle. But that's just me.

Yes, there is typically a decent space to run CAT cable behind crown molding. You just need to figure out how to route to get behind it. For example, a hole to the left of that speaker in that cabinet. I would use a pry bar to pull the crown off, make your holes, run the cable, staple the cable up to the corner, then reapply the crown using an air finish nailer.

Something certainly sounds incorrectly wired in that storage area. No way should there be over 120v from any outlet. I can't believe an electrician (a real one) would say all is fine and dandy.

There are a few things needed for success: You need to research / know what protocol the engine / transmission uses. J1708 is for older vehicles, J1939 is for newer. Your 2003 is right at the common cutoff when things transitioned. My 2002 Newmar uses both J1708 and J1939... You need the correct connector to connect to. Like Michael mentions, are you sure you aren't connecting to the ABS port? Once you figure out the right connection, you then need the right connector for that connection point. You need the right software to talk to the protocol. If you are using Silverleaf, then ensure it's the right protocol and all settings are set for that protocol. If the Trip Tek computer has a "termination resistor", then you can't have another termination resistor device on the same side of the network. Only two for the whole CAN bus are used. Sometimes the extra can be physically removed, other times there is a Jumper cable to disable.

Make sure you clean up all those wires nicely. The issue was the screws got loose, and heat was the result. If there are aluminum against steel, use some antioxident on the connections. Barrier strips are dirt cheap. Just get a good one. Personally I don't like the "nylon" type...to flexible...I like Phenolic better (firm, doesn't move, doesn't get loose, doesn't melt).

Most any faucet can be a replacement. I think I see some printing on the nozzle...likely the manufacturer (Delta / Moen / Kohler etc) You can use that to track down the exact one (if still available)

I used that exact valance to run many wires from the ceiling down to the basement. Just slide the drape closed, use a impact screw gun to remove the screws that affix angle brackets from wall to valance. There are likely some screws affixing to the top cabinet too. remove the valance. Drill holes from top cabinet down, that is hidden by the valance. Do same on the floor. Double check no wires / plumbing where you drill. There, ya have a wire channel. Put wire bundle in place, use tie wrap with a screw end, and screw that end to the interior of the valance to affix your cable bundle.

don't forget there are surface mount wire channels that can be wallpaper'ed or painted to match the walls. Looking at that picture...is that a slideout to the right? I see a wood trim that looks like it goes top to bottom...if it's not a movable wall, then possibly you can hide wires down that as a chase.

I don't have a Monaco, but a Newmar. There always is a way...need to be creative in looking how your coach is built and how to access and route cable. On mine, the HVAC ducting goes from front to back of the coach...I ran Plenum rated wires in there. In most coaches, the easiest way is via the basement that is more often than not, open navigation front to back and side to side. The trick is to get down the walls from upper cabinets to the basement. The "A pillar" covers (sides of the windshield) is a common route. You can also use the interior of some cabinets to drop down. I have a pantry floor to ceiling cabinet near my bathroom. There are access holes already, even removable shelves to access those holes. And Newmar uses that cabinet for their own wires....so I just reused it as well. Anyway, explore your coach for such victories. Remember Push Sticks (fiberglass poles for routing wires), flexible drill bits (bit on a long shaft - be very careful with these to avoid other wires or going through plumbing, etc) can be used. I always run a pull string with my wire for the future next wire to go via the same route. Always easier the second time!

Not perfectly following...but from that picture...looks like you have good access...what am I missing?

Any auto muffler ship can fabricate what you need. They just have to want to work on an RV that is big.

Without knowing anything about the specific toilet...is it overflowing because the flush water isn't shutting off? And eventually it does? And the toilet is flushing fine? For example, on my most recent RV trip, my son complained that the toilet was overfilling. Further examination showed that in actuality it wasnt' flushing and he kept pushing the flush / fill button which then filled it up. The flush blade was sticking from non use. Once the flush blade was coaxed to move, all was fine again an no more toilet drama for the trip.

Good point...the OP should also be sure that whoever winterized the system DID put in RV antifreeze and didn't just blow the water out. Required for Aquahot and Hydrohot systems.