Jump to content

Fred L

Members
  • Posts

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Fred L

  1. After using a heat gun to unfreeze the entry door, and then slowly getting the snow and ice off the slide's canvas, I was able to open the slide and gain access to the fuse panel in the rear of the coach. Per the panel fuse ID, it said F-14. Pulled the fuse and it was blown. Lucky me. Currently heating the water. I greatly appreciate all comments and especially Tom Cherry. I down loaded both files for future use. If everything goes well for another day we'll be heading south.
  2. Thanks for responding. It takes some time too get t he gas to everything if it runs out or isn't used for a while. I'm on sure power at the moment. The switch has no power so it can't activate the LP or elec. Still snowing and sides are in until it stops snowing, which appears to be a few more hours. And it's getting dark. I did see there is a breaker and snow fuse in a box I can't get to, until the side opens. Looks like tomorrow morning. I have had switches where the bulb burns out. I have taken the switch apart and placed a new bulb in. Radio shack had the bulbs, and it truly takes time and patience. If your on the generator and you turn the heater on the generator will tell you if it's working.
  3. There are 2 Hot water switches.1 for electric and the second for LP. LP worked for a second, electric didn't work at all. Took panel off wall and there is no power to either switch. I did not find a fuse in the outside panel. we're in a snow storm currently, trying to pack and leave in 2 days. Anybody experience this? Thinking of jumping the switch next to it which is for the water bay heater. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  4. I just went through this on my 2004 40' PDQ. Had the Cummins code pulled. Ended up being oil pressure sensor. Good lick
  5. last update; I finally had the RV checked by a company with Cummins software suggested by Tom Cherry. Code 141 showed a problem with oil pressure, however gauge showed plenty of pressure. I'll assume this sensor is different than physical gauge. Checked all wiring and pins. R&R switch cleared codes and code went inactive. $957 later, we're ready to roll. Thanks to all and for suggestions.
  6. I’m impressed with with the back and forth of each participant here. Each has knowledge of the discussion, at least I think. Seems to me me we were talking about a 409 ho vs the 350 ho Cummins and how to determine what you have. The way Monaco built and tagged them really plays a part. I have a 2004 purchased in 2003 at a trade show. Unit has been perfect, absolutely no complaints on its operation. Anyway, if you bag on the 2004 you’re looking at, mine is available. Already listed in the Coaches for sale area.
  7. After 20 years we figure it’s time to move on. FOR SALE 2004 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ (was a trade show model) Original Owners 110,523.0 miles Well maintained Cummins ISC 350HP No DEF required Allison 6-sp 3000M Electronic Trans See spec sheet attached for Standard and Optional Equipment. TV’s replaced with flat screen TV’s. Splendide 2100 XC washer/dryer 3 years old New house battery’s last fall. Norcold works great total replacement 4 years ago. Toilet total rebuild 2 years ago. KVH Satellite 3M front membrane removed Generator 1320.3 hours Upgraded Koni shocks 3 years ago Been in 49 states, and some Canada Provinces. Asking $78,500 2004 RV Spec sheet.pdf
  8. Just an update. Surprising it took a lot longer to find a Cummins dealer with the "Cummins Insight software". Next was to find one willing to look at it. And finally getting a date. I was able to setup just after labor day. They really don't want to work on it. If it's anything other than oil pressure unit, I'll need to take it elsewhere. It's a start. I'll continue updates as I go. Thanks again to all.
  9. I actually did check that when looking at all fluids. It does not have a check.
  10. I greatly appreciate all the input. A lot of food for thought. The dash has warning lights for everything. While the description for "WARNING", refers to check all fluid levels. Seems strange that there is a low coolant light and that isn't on. I had the RV serviced by a certified Cummins and Allison shop 2/3 years ago. The bill shows 20 qts filling. I don't plan on buying a scanner. The shop no longer works on RV's. To many styles and they decided to get away from them. They did give me the name of a company that they refer people to. I have spoken to the owner and will probably take it there. I would like to find the installer of wire harness that Tom Cherry indicated. Where is that listed. On the back side of Dash Board? Most of the problems in 20 years has been digging for the info. Especially after the Monaco going under. Thanks again to all.
  11. I have looked at the Ford item, and it doesn't match what I have. I'll include a picture of the tank if Murphy doesn't get involved. I have to check anti-freeze level using a tube since yo can't see swat. Lousy design by people that don't have a clue in my opinion.
  12. “WARNING” Perhaps someone has had the same problem and can share some direction. I have a 2004 Camelot, 40’ PDQ. Original owner, 110,000 miles on it. Never really any problem for all these years. Backed it into storage area in April after our winter in Florida. Pulled it out 2 weeks ago to prep for state inspection. The “WARNING” light came on and stays on. WARNING light is an indicator that “Out of range condition exists within engine protection circuits. Stop coach and check all fluid levels”. I did that and the trans was just above the fill line. I put 4 quarts over time checking so not to overfill. The Allison trans keyboard shows fluid level is ok. The engine was fine. The Anti freeze surge tank is Okay. Drove it to state inspection, it passed. WARNING light still on. Drove it home WARNING light went off. Next morning, light is back on. I have not been able to see a wiring drawing on this unit. So I really can’t trace any wiring yet. All fluids are where they need to be. I’m guessing it’s a bad sending unit. The only sending unit I can find is the radiator surge tank. The tank is plastic with the probe in the side. I cannot (yet) remove the screw holding 1 wire on. I fear removing the probe because so far I have not been able to find a replacement. BIG question is why does this probe only have 1 wire? Voltage at screw is 1.05 volt. Seems low to me. Should it be 12 v dc?
  13. Hi Jeff, I just started the process to sell our 2004 Monaco Camelot 40 PDQ. 110,060 miles. Original owner. Just passed PA state inspection. Been 49 states, and through Canada to Alaska from New York, (twice). East west to LA area 2 times (our son lives there). Up and down I-95 east coast to Florida Keys every year. Will be asking $77,500. But like life, everything is up to debate.
  14. A Follow up: I ordered the Jimmer part. Waited to get it before pulling out the resistor. I was able to identify my part as a MotorCraft part D8BH-19A706-AB. The part ordered was close but hit the metal box when installed. Was about 1/8" too big. Found the MotorCraft part on ebay, $45 plus shipping. Called a Ford parts department. A old and discontinued part. A new number is "DHBZ19A706A". But not available???? Went back to NAPA and the guy using the new number was able to locate a resistor part number "BR348". It matches the original except it has a plastic female box for the plug. The original did not have the plastic box. The option was to buy a pigtail and replace the original plug cost $46, or buy just the resistor $28. I just bought the resistor and drilled out the 2 rivets, used black RTV gasket maker to plug the holes. Installed it also using the gasket maker on the edges. It works. KenAVTech Thanks for your listing HL switch replacement. A lot of work for the switch. I think a few beers wouldn't be enough.
  15. Thanks for the info Both replies have helped a lot.
  16. Thanks Bob, The headlight switch works the lights. Doesn't do real well on the dash lights. Which most times I didn't need. That's been several years. Playing and turning it sometimes get them to work. I had to pull the dash cover free once before and it was a chore. Just thought since I needed to pull the the cover off for the switch I'd do them both.
  17. I have a 2004 Monoao Camelot PDQ. Purchased new. The switch that controls heat and a/c while driving needs replacing. It works only on high speed (at least it works). I need to pull dash board cover off to get to it. The headlight switch also needs replacing. My toad Jeep has had same problem and was able to buy just the switch. I replaced the headlights last year finding that they were designed for a Chevy. Has anybody had to replace the unit? It includes the temperature setting knob, and selection knob for a/c, heat, defrost, etc.
  18. I was able to have all replaced 2 years ago on my 2004 PDQ. Been working well since.
  19. I have a 2004 40' PDQ. One switch turns on the lights above toilet, the second turns light over sink. A third switch is on right of sink lower than sink turns water pump on. Maybe someone switched out the wires?
  20. I have a 2004 Camelot. I ordered a complete set of lights for the same reason, faded lens. The lens sent did NOT match. I wanted to return those and after 2 months of letters Amazon gave me a return credit. I did order one at a time new TYC lens. It took two orders ( my fault) the lights matched perfectly . Installing was easy just time consuming. My original lights were about 150' in front on high beam. I found that the lights were not able to be adjusted because the way they were installed. My new lights are AWESOME. Use the number on the headlamp for the proper light. Mind were for Chevy Silverado .
  21. I had the same problem Became annoying. My unit used a Nason switch SM-1C-66R/WP28. Contacted Isaacs Fluid Power Equipment Co. $42.00, UPS in 3 days Called low pressure switch Good Luck
  22. I was able to replace the switch. That appears to have fixed the beeping. 2 Days driving with stopping and starting no problems. Did have an issue with the ABS light coming on and off.. Anyone know anything about the ABS? Thanks' for all the import.
  23. Do I need to release the Parking Brake? The RV loses all it's air over several days. It appears that the back loses air first. Not a real problem over night but after a few days it's sitting down in the back. I think I can remove the screws holding the switch and pull the switch up through the cup holder hole. It look's like enough line to come through. Thanks
  24. Okay, an update. I was able to find the switch in the RV. Also found a new switch at a reasonable price. Hope it gets here before I leave. Does anyone know if you loose all air pressure when you remove the switch? Do you have to release the parking brake when doing the change. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as all the comments to date.
  25. Thanks Jim I just was able to find that location goggling it. The coach rolls fine when I release the switch. The horn will drive me batty.
×
×
  • Create New...