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Harvey Babb

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    Holiday Ramber
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    Victoria Texas

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    Retired industrial controls specialist

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  1. Rest assured that you are the only one on this group who has ever done anything like that! NOT! If that is the worst mistake you ever make you will be doing extremely well my friend!
  2. Plugging it may cause your air bags to overinflate, possibly causing damage. Leaks are common in my experience, and while annoying, are small and harmless. If the coach can maintain air pressure at idle, you should be safe to travel with it.
  3. Leak location: my 2000 HR Endeavor had a cooked suction hose where it passed by the turbo. It deteriorated to the point that the hose felt crunchy if you moved it.
  4. As Rick said, looks like Red/Green/Green which means either L1 and neutral or L2 and neutral are reversed. This is bad! It means that the full 220/2230/240 volts is applied to whatever circuits are fed by the miswired side. According to the brochure for the surge guard there is no protection provided for that condition ( https://rvpower.southwire.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/SW-SurgeGuard-Brochure-Update.pdf Page 18). That is their "Bottom of the Line" 50 Amp unit and frankly only good for indication. If you plugged it into the power source and checked the lights BEFORE plugging the RV
  5. Yes, if it's one of the more advanced ones (like Amazon's "best seller" https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-INDUSTRIES-SSP-50XL-Surge-Protector/dp/B015Y9A4HU/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=RV+surge+protector&qid=1618176479&sr=8-3 ) it never should have happened. Nor would that protector have had any damage; the simpler design used by most inexpensive surge protectors will smoke in seconds if exposed to a continuous voltage that exceeds their protection voltage. BTW Rick, I went back and re-read my earlier post and I did not state that I was talking about an "open neutral" conditi
  6. And that's what I think he did. As stated in the OP the surge protector was showing "open ground" and I'm ASSUMING it was actually an open neutral. What's missing here are some readings that will make things more clear. If we had readings of L1 to L2, L1 to N, and L2 to N it would clear a lot of things up. If it was indeed an open neutral then there could be a LOT of things damaged, including the surge protector, transfer switch, washer, dryer, TV's, microwave and anything else with AC control circuitry. The items l listed are most vulnerable because they have line voltage "always on
  7. Yes, you most certainly can cause significant damage just by plugging into 230 volts WITH NO NEUTRAL. What this does is put roughly 1/2 of the devices in the coach in series with the other half and apply 230 volts to the lot. What this means is that the voltage that appears on any 120 volt device CAN BE as much as 230 volts. If the water heater or refrigerator happens to be on, whatever is on the other group will see nearly the entire 230 volts. With luck the transfer switch will fry before it pulls in and kills a bunch of other stuff, but the fact that dryer was hit would indicate that
  8. I think Ray is on the right track, and if they did indeed have 230 coming in damage to the transfer switch (as well as a host of other devices) would be likely. Damage to the control board in the transfer switch and/or its relays could prevent power from either shore or generator from getting through. The transfer switch selects (generator OR shore) (with shore being dominant) and feeds the main breaker. Power from the main feeds branch breakers, and one of the branch breakers feeds the inverter/charger. In the inverter, (branch power OR inverter power) feeds (through breakers in the
  9. Could be a shorted bulb. Rare, but it happens.
  10. Thanks Tom, I think I'm back on planet Earth now. In my career in industrial controls I've encountered auxiliary trip breakers many times, but have never seen one in residential or mobile application. (One could reasonably include GFCI breakers in that class, but...)
  11. Dennis, maybe I'm asking the wrong question. The OP's statement that "all the breakers were tripped" is what got my attention. With normal breakers there is no way in hell they could ALL trip. My assumption then was that they were "auxiliary trip" breakers and that the aux input was controlled by some smart monitoring system. Am I close or am I totally off in the weeds somewhere?
  12. Question from curious bystander: I am not familiar with the intellitech system. What exactly is it supposed to do? From the symptoms it would appear that it operates auxiliary trips on the breakers; is this correct?
  13. I spray "Gunk SC" on the engine side, wait for at least 30 minutes, then spray from the outside at a car wash. As stated above, don't get too close with the high pressure or you can damage the radiator.
  14. Hi Van, I'll humbly correct you on a couple of points: Yes you CAN pour liquid propane at atmospheric pressure, and you CAN fill a tank that is higher than the source. On the farm we regularly filled the tractor tanks, above eye level for my 6 foot 1 inch height, from a tank barely 2 feet off the ground, and could transfer the 40 gallons to the tractor in about 3-5 minutes. The key is the bleeder valve that every propane tank is fitted with. After making the connection the bleeder of the destination tank is opened to "bleed off" vapor, thereby reducing pressure in the destination tank. Op
  15. Ray, I was referring to the ubiquitous 20 lb. capacity tanks used for gas grills. I honestly dont know how "RV" got tacked on there. My "setup" is just a high pressure hose with a fitting on one end that matches the fill fitting of the RV and a fitting on the other end that matches the portable tank. After careful reflection I don't think I'm willing to post the procedure for making the transfer. Instead I'll tell you all the reasons you SHOULDN'T do it. Propane in the tank is a FLAMMABLE liquified gas under high pressure . If the fittings are undone with liquid in the hose the liquid wil
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