Harvey Babb

Before giving up on your current fridge you might want to take a look at the compressor mounts. Whether rubber grommets or coil springs these often deteriorate allowing the compressor to bump into the mounting bolts or other nearby objects on starting and stopping. If that's the case it's you can either replace them or just ignore the noise.

Gary, thank you so much for posting this! Many people would have simply stayed silent instead of acknowledging they'd made a mistake, leaving everyone wondering what the solution had been. I have seen many posts garner responses from the community and then just leave everyone hanging, discouraging those who had taken the time to help out. You have done the adult thing and let everyone know what the problem was and acknowledging their efforts.

The headlight switch itself will sometimes have the breaker as an integral part of it. I first ran across this over 40 years ago when the çlearance lights on my car shorted out from a pinched wire.

Just a guess but the problem is likely the LED. They draw much less current than incandescents and some sensors use the current through the bulb to power them. If that's the case then you will either have to go back to a conventional bulb or put a resistor in parallel with the LED.

Many headlight switches have a built-in automatic reset circuit breaker. Flashing will occur if there is a short in the one of the circuits (headlights or clearance lights) fed by the headlight switch. I have seen this happen when there is a short in the Toad or trailer pigtail for example.

I had a propane dealer make me a hose with the proper fittings to connect a small tank to the RV filler connector. If your usage is too fast for the small tank to afford, causing it to freeze, you can usually slowly tip the small tank over so it will deliver liquid propane to the RV tank.

They are connectors that plug into headers like the one beside it on the board.

You might try a sprinkler valve. Lots cheaper and more available (Lowe's, Home Depot) and they have a manual bypass. While they're made for 24 volt AC I'm pretty sure they'll be ok on 12 volt DC. (They're cheap enough that if it doesn't work out you haven't lost that much.)

You're welcome! Glad I could help. James, to help others who may have the same problem could you tell us what you found and how you fixed it? Harvey

Disconnect the cable at the pump motor and try to lower. If the fuse doesn't blow then you have a seized or shorted pump motor.

I had this happen when the gas valve was not opening. It did "click", but sounded muted and was not actually delivering gas. This problem caused me many nights waking to a freezing bedroom and resulted in me getting to know the furnace WAY better than I'd like! While it's working right listen to the operation carefully so you know what a normal start sounds like and see if you can detect a difference when it acts up. You might try standing by while its trying to start and giving the gas valve a whack with a screwdriver handle. What I learned standing in the cold darkness was that the sequence of operation programmed into the control board goes as like this: Thermostat wants heat so supplies control power to the blower relay, the overheat shutdown switch and the sail switch. After a few seconds (up to ten or more if it's cold) the blower relay clicks and starts the blower. Almost immediately the sail switch detects air flow and feeds control power to the control board. The control board starts the purge timer while the blower clears out any gas present and waits until the purge timer is satisfied. When the purge timer is satisfied the abort timer is started, the gas valve is powered "On" and the spark igniter starts clicking. The burner ignites with a slight "whump" and flame can be heard. The flame detector circuit detects current flowing through the flame probe to the flame proving it's burning, and the spark igniter turns off. (If no flame is detected before the abort timer times out, the gas valve is turned off and the control drops back to purging again. It will continue to cycle through "Purge, Gas On, Ignite" until it successfully lights or you get tired of it blowing cold air and turn it off.) (If there is insufficient air moving around the firebox the overheat shutdown switch will turn off power to the control board until the temperature drops and then drop back to purging again. It will continue to cycle the burner off and on for as long as it keeps overheating.) When temperature in the coach satisfies the thermostat control voltage turns off, closing the gas valve. After a period of 10 or more seconds the blower relay drops out and stops the blower. Note that the blower motor turns TWO blowers: the big one for circulating cabin air around the firebox and a small one that supplies combustion air to the burner.

I would suspect an intermittent blockage of the high pressure line going from compressor to condenser, or of the condenser itself. Unless the system is severely overcharged there should be no way to reach high enough pressure to blow the relief valve, as there should be enough space in the condenser to accommodate all the liquid refrigerant. About the only way I can think of to troubleshoot something like this would be to add pressure test points at junctions in the high pressure side. There is normally already a test port at the expansion valve and at the suction of the evaporator. Perhaps make up some fittings to add test ports on both sides of the condenser. I have seen a hose with a leak in the liner that did not leak externally but instead collapsed the liner, blocking flow. On releasing pressure the refrigerant would leak out of the space around the liner, "healing" the blockage, only to have it inflate and block the line again after things got flowing again. That falls squarely in the "freak occurrence" column, but it did happen.. Best of luck! I think you'll need it.

Traps are the best option since the dog will avoid them after the first "snap". Glue traps, but only if they can be secured where the dog can't get to them. Good Luck to you~

More likely the wiring from fuse to switch, or from selector switch directly to ground.

Correct. There will be some air in the filter/housing and it will take a little while for it to purge out. As long as the wheel isn't moved immediately on starting the engine the air will be flushed out without incident. If the wheel is turned too soon the air will be pushed into the steering actuator, making steering "spongy". If this happens it can usually be cleared up by turning the wheel "lock to lock" several times. Not a real problem but since it's easily avoided ....

Let the engine idle for a few minutes before moving the steering wheel to allow air to be purged. If you move the wheel too soon you could get air into the steering actuator and it will take a while to get it back out.

DANGER! The magnetron works at several THOUSAND volts, as does the capacitor. Don't even think about trying to read the voltage at the capacitor or you WILL blow up your meter and run you run the REAL risk of electrocution. Before opening the case be SURE it's unplugged! The capacitor could hold a charge for quite a while so shorting across it with a screwdriver is a good idea before grabbing anything. (The charge stored will give a good "snap" when shorted so cover your eyes.) As stated above the most likely culprit is the magnetron, although a loose connection is possible and there is also a rectifier in the circuit whose failure can give the same symptoms. If you can do without it for a few days you could order a rectifier (go by the type of connectors on the rectifier; they are all electrically the same). They go for about a dollar each, but you may have to buy a "lot" of 2 to 6. (Search "microwave rectifier" on Amazon) The good news is that magnetrons are fairly cheap ($30 to $150) and easy to replace. Amazon carries a wide variety and they are almost always clearly marked with a part number. (Yes, if you get it done by a service shop you will pay dearly. I think you can figure out how that works!)

The tube is a permanent part of the switch assembly. The tube has to be pulled out of the evaporator and the tube on the new switch assembly inserted in its place. The tube is filled with freon (or similar) at the factory and permanently sealed. The fill fluid produces a pressure proportional to the temperature of the coldest part of the tube. The switch is actually a pressure switch that works off the pressure in the tube.

After considerable thought and reading all the posts here my belief is that the most likely problem is either the failure of the electronics or (as suggested by Alan Penniman above) the stepping motor that moves the indicating needle. I have had a stepping motor failure in my 2005 Chevy Venture, and that was an obvious mechanical failure that happened over a period of weeks rather than instant total failure. Given the coincidence of the alternator problem mentioned in the original post I'd lean toward the failure of the electronics being the actual cause. At any rate, I think you are down to getting a replacement.

Is the odometer advancing too or just the speed indication?

Yes, pay close attention to that 2nd trailer socket wiring. My money is on that.

The short answer is "No. That's not normal." While I'm not familiar with that coach the standard way coaches (and all heavy vehicles) are wired is to have separate lights for the brake and turn signals. This is in contrast to automobiles and light trucks that long ago cheaped out to using a single bulb for both purposes. This duality poses a problem when you are towing a car as it requires a device to combine the two signals from the coach so they can be fed to the car. It's likely that said device has developed a fault and it cross connecting the two systems on your coach.

Amazon.com Search for "rope light 1 meter"

I did mine using the 120 Volt "HVAC" unit from JC with the help of my son. Worked nicely for about a month, then failed. JC sent a replacement at no cost and we did it again (lots quicker the 2nd time) and it's been doing well for 2 years now. We built a low bench to move the refrigerator to because of only having one able bodied person (I'm a paraplegic) and were able to get the job done with very little stress and strain.

Try disconnecting the control wire from the starter solenoid. If it still starts then the solenoid is the problem, not the controller. Solenoids sometimes jam in the "on" position or their contacts weld shut.