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Maybe route a new air line and bypass the old one.

Wow you just discovered a new way to troubleshoot these units. Smart! Any issues getting the furnace/Aqua Hot working on the new CC2?

Yes, the diesel burner is quieter now. I can hardly here it run. And I still have not installed the stainless enclosure yet.

Our Aqua Hot system is finally working better than new. I sent the diesel burner to John Carrillo and he rebuilt and sent it back in two days. The internal clutch was broken. John installed a 5-year kit with new bearings, new clutch, new wire harness, new fuel hoses, new grommets, new ignitors, and calibrated and adjusted everything. He also tested my electronic controller. The cost was only about half what others charge and the unit looks like new. To make R&R easier, I installed a spade connector on the red wire going to the relay. This relay has three +12v wires attached to a single tiny screw and it is tough to work on. This way I just detach a spade connector. After installation it fired up within 20 seconds and burns clean and hot. Our night time temps dropped into the 30's and it ran on and off all night and kept the coach warm and we had plenty of hot water in the morning. Hindsight, I should have sent the diesel burner into John when I first removed the old boiler. This new boiler works much better than the old one. The new AC electric element will actually produce enough heat for a shower! The old one was only good for a few dishes. This boiler also holds the heat much longer. I run the diesel burner one cycle at about 4am and it makes enough heat for a shower and hot water all day. Thanks to everyone that contributed advice.

Competition is always good for the consumer but in this case I'm not sure I see any advantages. I just spent time and money rebuilding our Aqua Hot but it has been in service for 19 years! I fully expect to get another 10-20 years from it. Comparison: The MCS16 is 54,000BTU while the older Aqua hot units are 50,000BTU and most of the newer Aqua Hot units are 60,000BTU. The MCS16 is 18.5" W x 10" H x30" L. The Aqua Hot dimensions are 18.5" W x 18.5" H x 36.75" L. So you gain 8" in height but you still can't stack anything on it and the footprint is almost identical. The Aqua Hot 450 systems are smaller but I'm not a fan of those either as they use a very small boiler. The fuel burn rates are identical at .5 gal per hour. The MCS16 weighs about 90# less (112lbs vs 200lbs). This worries me for long term usage. You are going to easily spend over $10k for the MCS16 plus any other conversion or installation costs. You can completely rebuild your existing Aqua Hot for half that cost IF you do the labor yourself. I'm interested in watching your conversion thread and hope it works out well.

I just went through all 8 pages of this thread. Very interesting! We love our 2004 Signature but were hoping one day for a newer one. I sure hope you guys figure out a fix.

You need to check the stored codes with a heavy truck code reader.

Ted, do you really have ten thousand hours on your generator, or s that a typo? I just used Prestone antifreeze in the generator. The engines (Isuzu or Kubota depending on model) have dry sleeves that are not exposed to coolant. Be careful with the radiator drain plug, mine just screwed into plastic.

I'm sorry, but I think you need to be much more involved in this or you are going to be led in circles. I don't understand how the tech can narrow it down to the PTO seal. He would have to disassemble the hydraulic pump from the PTO to even see the PTO seal. And that's a big job because those huge hydraulic lines need to be removed and there is almost 20 gallons of hydraulic fluid in this system. I had a weight lifter friend help loosen the 2" B-Nut on the hydraulic hose and it took 20 min of straining. This is the link to the post I made on repairing ours: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sauer-danfoss-hydraulic-pump-rebuild-455664.html#post4895665 The Cummins PTO to hydraulic pump gasket is Cummins part number 3916042. They are available on eBay. I'd get two of them and a tube of Permatex Ultra-Grey gasket sealer. I also replaced one of the dash 4 steel braided hoses from the transmission to PTO and replaced the shaft seal in the hydraulic pump. I hope you get it straightened out.

Yes, check the rear electrical box for a fuse. Just to the right of the engine. Also check the wiring to the trailer taillight plug.

It's possible to swap in a new style alternator but there are so many issues. Just have the original alternator rebuilt. It's so much easier.

Our HWH control panel quit working. The ground wire on the back of the panel had pulled lose.

Bob, Some good advice above. You can try the HWH air leveling reset switch. It should be on the drivers left side console all the way back. You can also tap AIR once on the HWH control panel then press the up arrow on the right side to see if that will raise it. In the end you're going to need to make some ramps out of 2"x10" lumber stacked about three high. Then drive the coach up onto them. This should give you enough clearance to get underneath. The ride height valves are pretty simple and occasionally the small linkage to them becomes disconnected. You should have two ride height valves on the rear and one on the front. Good luck!

There are several shops performing good RV paint work. Precision Painting is performing great work and is even successful at covering crazing. Precision Painting Inc Bremen, IN Address: 730 High Rd, Bremen, IN 46506 Phone: (574) 546-4473

Are you using propylene glycol boiler fluid mixed with distilled water? I agree with Richard. You can use an ohm meter to test each thermostat. The thermostat should open when the boiler reaches the required temperature. There are four thermostats in the system behind a small access panel in the firewall. The cover is held on with two screws. I think I would replace all four thermostats. After two fail, the others are not far behind. Until your new parts get here you can still use the diesel system. Just run it for 15-20 min and then turn it off. You can do the same with the electrical side, but let it run for an hour and then turn it off. Chemworld has the best price on boiler fluid. https://www.chemworld.com/Boiler-Antifreeze-s/1994.htm

Does anyone know where to get the U shaped wire retainers for the large Dayton relays? One of our wire retainers is missing.

That's a great idea. I had a similar thought. When I was back in Tucson over the weekend and I put together a wire connector for the +12v wire that goes to the relay block.

Check the oil level on both the generator and main engine first. Then start the generator. After 2 min turn on one of the A/C units to load it. Run it for 30 min. Then shut it down and crank the engine. After the oil pressure comes up put it into fast idle and bring the temperature up to 180 or so. Turn on the dash A/C, cycle the trans into D and R then back to neutral. Press the brake pedal a couple of times. If all tire pressures are good, drive it to see if the tires have developed flat spots. Good luck!

You probably need to clean the ends of the RJ11 telephone cords, especially under each A/C. Open the vent under each A/C on the inside of the coach. You'll find a phone cord junction. Remove the phone cords and clean the ends with Deoxit. It wouldn't hurt to clean the RJ11 phone cord ends where they plug into the back of the thermostat. After that's complete, turn the thermostat off using the black slide switch on the underside. Then hold down both top and bottom buttons simultaneously while turning the thermostat on. You will see FF in the display. Then everything should operate normally. Good luck!

The trend now is going to lithium batteries. They are expensive and do not like cold or hot temperatures. I considered building my own lithium packs but stayed with the tried-and-true Trojan T-105 6-volt golf cart batteries. Our local golf shop has them for $129 each. I have to periodically monitor the water level but the last set I had lasted almost 10 years.

Okay. Thanks. When the flame sensor is bad you only get 1 or 2 sparks. I'm not sure what caused no fuel pressure initially and then started working. I'm also not sure why the clutch suddenly broke. I guess just bad timing. The diesel burner was due for a rebuild.

Below is a picture of my fuel pressure gauge fitted into an old nozzle as well as a Schrader valve attached to a 5/8" heater hose. Zone bleeding procedure: I turned off both boiler fluid ball valves (the upper goes out to the house heat exchangers and the lower is a return back to the tank). Then attach the heater hose/Schrader valve adapter to the boiler tank overflow and pressurize it with 15psi from an air compressor. I then went inside and set the thermostat to Furnace-Zone 3 and turned the temp up to 85. Then open the upper ball valve allowing fluid out of the boiler into the house heat exchangers. Next open the drain valve at the bottom of the Aqua Hot. You can hear the loud air pockets as they blow out the drain valve. I did this twice for each zone. I may have to do Zone 1 again as it goes through the kitchen and living room all the way to the front of the coach. The caution here is not to let the boiler tank fluid level drop too low or it will blow air out into the heat exchangers. I had to refill the tank after each zone. Also, you do not necessarily need the boiler up to temperature. The bolt in the picture is used to plug the overflow hose from the overflow tank. Also attached is a picture of the new overflow tank. It's mounted to the wall in the basement compartment just in front of the Aqua Hot. The hose from the overflow tank goes up through the plywood ceiling cover and back to the Aqua Hot (picture is sideways).

I replaced the round metal "photo disc" on the front of the diesel burner and reinstalled it. Now the diesel burner will not run. It's very quiet. I removed it again and tested fuel pressure. It's not getting any fuel or blowing air. But, the spark works continuously. Initially i thought it was something I had done wrong. I spent some time troubleshooting and could not find any misplaced wires. This time after removal I could hear pieces rattle when I turn it over. I'm pretty sure the clutch is broken. I thought about this overnight and decided to send the diesel burner in for rebuild.

Many of your systems (interior lights and Aqua Hot burner) run on 12v. The inverter is required to recharge the batteries. I leave our inverter on 24/7.

I'd say no. If it's running well with no codes I'd leave it alone, especially with a good working Banks kit. Any updates would be for emissions.