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I think the Milwaukee and DeWalt cordless guns are the way to go. Cut the cord.

Can you slide a box end wrench up in between to the upper two nuts? If so use a pipe over it.

Mike, thanks for posting. I always learn from you.

Have you tried the ABS reset switch?

For your slide out hydraulic system look under the inside step. The lid raises up. Also look at page 171 in your owner's manual. It has a nice diagram of the slide out hydraulic pump and reservoir. It says: Access the slide room hydraulic pump in generator compartment (curbside) at front of the motorhome behind the firewall. Regardless, you really need to check your chassis battery voltage level unplugged without the charger running. I suspect you have low CHASSIS batteries. Then check the Intellitec Big Boy solenoid back in the engine compartment. It's under the plexiglass cover to the right of the engine. The Big Boy combines the house and chassis batteries after the house batteries reach a preset voltage (assuming your Inverter is set up for charging correctly). This charges the chassis battery. The problem is the copper contacts inside the Big Boy get carbon build up and do not make contact. As a result, many of our chassis batteries get low.

Motor homes usually sit for long periods and grease type bearing are considered ideal. Oil bath bearings are designed for vehicles that are constantly rolling. But, I've seen several motor homes converted to oil bath front wheel bearings. You should be able to find a conversion kit. As you've pointed out the challenge is how to visually check the oil level with the chrome wheel center covers.

John, you should understand you have more than one hydraulic system. The one in the engine compartment runs the power steering and hydraulic cooling fan. The system under your step runs three of the slideouts and the generator slide. If your chassis battery (two engine start Group 31 batteries) is not being charged through the Intellitec Big Boy solenoid the voltage is low and your 12v electric hydraulic pump is running slow. Also, the Intellitec Big Boy is famous for corrosion buildup on the copper contacts. Good luck!

I bring the awnings in with any significant wind. But I leave the slides out even with strong winds. I've replaced my slide toppers with Stone Voss material and its thicker and stronger.

Our 1997 Windsor had the fuse panel inside the center console. The center console pulled out and the fuses were inside. Good luck!

Tiffin builds a great coach. Check the Tiffin owners section on IRV2. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f106/

Congratulations Rick! I think you'll find 2007 is a great model year. Best of luck!

Northwest RV Supply has several Monaco Owners manuals including the 2006 Executive. OWNER'S MANUALS (Allow 2 working days Leadtime prior to Shipping) - Northwest RV Supply (nwrvsupply.com)

Okay. You need to define no power. No 12V or no 120V? Does the thermostat light up with a menu when you turn the black slide switch on the bottom of the thermostat on? (This is assuming you have the original 5 button Dometic Comfort Control). Do you have a 42' Dynasty with three A/C systems, or a 40' with two? Do you have any other A/Cs on that thermostat, and do they operate? Do you have a washing machine? Monaco used an Intellitec relay and put one of the A/C units on the same circuit with the washer. These sometimes go bad. This should get us started and we'll work from these answers.

I've had two Cummins ISX 525hp coaches and they both have been great. The ISX 650HP (CM871) engine is the main culprit with chordal intake valve failure. These engines began with the 2008 model year. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/isx-650-cm871-dropped-valve-in-6-a-489760.html

Wow, a Detroit 60 Series Navigator. And 2006 is a great year as you get the Intellitec multiplex system, a Magnum inverter and the HWH air system. That is one nice coach! Try leveling after you shut down the engine. Turn the ignition back to on or accessory and first manually lower the coach most of the way. Then depress the air button twice to level. This will level the coach at the lowest point and it will be more stable. Good luck!

How long after you shut the engine off does it stay level? You can lower it down on the air springs prior or just after shutting it off. You need to build some 2" x 10" boards screwed together staggered about three or four boards high. Drive up onto these so you can safely get under the coach. Then start looking for leaks. A spray bottle of soapy water or one of the sonic detectors will help. You probably have one major leak and dozens of very small ones. Check the 6-packs (six air solenoids ganged together) both front and rear as well as all the air solenoids. Good luck!

Attached is the Essex user guide. If you need to replace the keyboard, the part number is: Essex KE-1701BHC (“C” means Monaco connector) They are available from A1 Electric in Torrance CA. Phone: (310) 328-8500 Essex Keyless KE1701 UserGuide.pdf

Try Source Engineering for the fan. Phone: (458) 207-9442 The A/C compressors are from Sanden. The model number will be on your build sheet. When you replace it you will also need top replace the A/C dryer and have the R134 refrigerant serviced. Check you serpentine belt, idler pulley and tensioner pulley. Why did you have to have the engine rebuilt?

You can access the RJ11 phone cord cables and junctions from inside the coach. Lower the ceiling covers just like you are cleaning the A/C filters. Also clean the cable ends where they plug into the back of the thermostat.

Your keypad has probably lost its programming. Try reprogramming it.

Do you have a Dometic 5 button comfort control thermostat? If so, turn the black slide switch on the bottom off. While holding down both top and bottom buttons, slide the black on-off switch on. You will see FF in the display. Then release the two buttons. This is generic for all Dometic 5 button comfort control thermostats. I'm not aware of anything special for your Kongburg chassis multiplex. Good luck

Monaco used Sanden A/C compressors that are for large trucks and buses. The Sanden model will be on the Monaco build sheet. You'll need to see if any metal entered the A/C hoses. Hopefully not but if so, they'll need cleaning out as well as the condenser. The dryer is up front on the passenger side of the generator. It will need replacing. Good luck!

Northwest RV Supply has boards available. (541) 746-9092 https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product-category/leveling-slide-out/hwh/hwh-leveling-slide-out-touch-pads/ I sent my control board into HWH for repair and they sent it back within one week. You'll need a to request an RMA number before sending.

Thec upgrade may be from the standard 300hp to the 330hp with EGR (exhaust gas recirculation). Someone will have to plug in a heavy diesel code reader under your dash and retrieve the engine codes. Other wise you're just guessing.

My first choice would be to fix the original system. More than likely the issue is the Intellitec Big Boy isolation solenoid in the rear electrical run bay. These can be repaired by disassembling and cleaning the copper contacts. Then if you still want to modify it, I'd install a Blue Sea ML-ACR battery combiner. This will also install in the rear electrical run bay and combine the batteries for charging or boost (emergency) starts. https://www.bluesea.com/products/7622/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A