TomV48

I concur. With ours I run a 40 amp DC to DC that puts about 50 amp load on the alternator to charge 40. With that I see 13 -14 volts running voltage but do see about a volt or so drop if I put the headlights on

I looked at those and the wiring was way too light to suit me. I used little appliances that let me run my chosen gauge of wire up to a 1/4 inch female blade connector.

For the driver's area I ran a 10 gauge wire up from the electrical control box below the driver's window into the dash area. I then mounted a dual receptacle surface mounted on the lower edge of the dash.

I got a phone number ultimately the parts dept at REV the new or current Parent Company . I think this is where I reached out.. 1 (877) 466-6226. They gave me not only my paint codes but my build sheet with all models and serial numbers for my accessories

I also learned when fiddling around with installing my DC to DC charger that if I BACK FEED power from battery to the ignition hot lead which normally activates the charging solenoid to allow alternator to charge the house batteries, that I cannot shut off the engine. So check for anything shorted on to the low amperage side of that solenoid

Then there is the higher flow, Remco Aquajet variable speed pump in our couch which specifically says do not use with a pressure accumulator. We had three rigs prior with standard water pumps and I added a small acculator to all three and really appreciated the improvement in flow and reduced cycle frequency

Please show us a picture of what you replaced and part you got from Amazon

Thank you. After self-righteously expressing that rule from Power Gear I can now feel safe to admit that I too tend to make sure there's some T-9 on things, where I can't bear the risk of rust. Oh, and I DO hear the load come off the motor on retracting the main living room slide when I put my shoulder in to it.

throgmartin. Thank you. I too, use manual assist when my slide is first coming in, to help it come up the ramp from flat floor. Might just be my phoebia. We were slipping a cog, in the Power Gear drive gears. That was a hassle to correct. Then I looked at our repair history and the owners manual for Power Gear. The former owner had the issue "Fixed"at CW, twice. They had so much dried axle grease on the gears that I had to lift the slide and remove both gears and both gear rails. A gallon of solvent and two wire brushes later I had the rails and gears clean and ready to replace. First thing in both the installers manual and the owners manual " ABSOLUTELY DO NOT LUBRICATE THE DRIVE GEARS OR RAIL TEETH". In fact, it says, IF YOU MUST LUBE SOMETHING, LIMIT IT TO A LIGHT SILICONE ON THE GEAR'S AXLES ONLY." I have no rollers. What would you recommend, if anything, to ease pressure on the initial lift up the 45° ramp?

My go to has always been a spray from. radio Shack they used to call "Color TV tuner cleaner". With the near death of Radio Shack, where I used to buy it, I am told you can still find it on EBay. It is THE BEST electrical contact cleaner ever.

Thank you ROBERT. Love this group. Seems less alone out here with you guys available to back us up. Thank you. Reminds me that before hot weather, I need to get EGT displaying on my ScanGaugeD

Mine is like described and a Corian type material. I would just buff it out like new and forget the stainless, until and unless it becomes necessary.

My 2005 Ambassador, rear radiator 8.3 rated at 330 HP seems to hang up at max 22-23 with my foot in it and "appropriate" rpm. Seems like it used to give me more. Thinking I need to get a Cummins shop to plug it in and check my diagnostics. Am I thinking right or expecting too much?

Upper left looks like it could be a boost relay but could also be the salesman switch for the DC in the coach. Use a multi meter or even just a volt meter, and start tracing things. I hope there is a master battery cut off at each battery bank so that you can isolate a bank and then track the large cables in the front page see which one is left hot and which one is not. I have a big boy type 200 amp full duty cycle relay in my coach, back in the battery Bay, but it's disabled (out of the circuit) in favor of a DC to DC charger I installed for my lithium batteries so no boost switch. Try this link to YouTube, AZ Expert if I recall the device he is installing, will not only handle lithium batteries but should handle stock batteries as well, until you get around to upgrading. There is also a similar isolator for conventional batteries if lithium batteries are not the priority.

Well the first thing we installed was a safe T plus steering stabilizer. That gave me some improvement in steering and peace of mind to a degree regarding blowout control and stability. And it was an improvement but not a giant one. Then we put the watts link on the front and that was a monumental improvement in body roll and sway generally. Also added the Monaco Watts crossbars on the rear trailing arms and that gave us almost complete elimination of tail wag. I was unhappy with the lack of adjustment on the shepherd m100 steering box but first went to work on the alignment issues. The few shops in Southern California who claim to be able to align that one of the small fortune to attempt it. $600 to $800 for the quotes. Peach truck and tire service out of Corona did a fair improvement with alignment and didn't cost me an arm and a leg but it was still not entirely desirable. While traveling in Oregon this summer I booked an appointment with Kaiser alignment in Eugene oregon.. They are very close to the mothership where this thing was built in Coburg and they have been aligning eight airbags suspension for decades. They did not complain about what Pete's had done but fine-tuned it with a couple more adjustments and made it markedly better. They also checked the play in my shepherd steering box and the manager reported to me that it was possibly the least slop he'd ever seen in a Shepherd box. He indicated that they could obtain the parts and change it out to a trw for me but of course it's a long way from home so I tried the new alignment on the way home and frankly I was happy. Driving the bus is still a full-time job but much more relaxing with the proper alignment and a stabilizing modifications that I've done so far. With hindsight I don't think there's anything I've done to that suspension that I regret or that I would do differently if doing it over.

My hydraulic stuff is behind the driver's side rear wheel. In a compartment which secures with keyed screws like the lock nuts on mag wheels

Thankfully, I've never had the problem but I have read a suggestion that might be of value. I have read that it takes a whole lot less to start your generator so jumper the truck batteries start the generator get the jumper off and then let the generator charge. If your battery charge crossovers are correct, (mine are not) you're inverter should step in and charge both sets of batteries. Otherwise make sure you use a real powerful jump starter because my book says we can pull a 1300 cold cranking amps. Good luck and Happy New Year Sir

Did that include checking the reset on the GFI? Mine in on the outlet in the bathroom though I hear it varies widely.

TRY this site for information They seem to be at the heart of MAGNUM parts and repair although no one jumps out and offers the schematics. https://www.zonnaenergy.com/parts/me2012-g-inverter-charger/

DITTO on the Breaker reset; and I would unplug and see how things are on just my Generator before I panic. If your coach wiring does not have a problem, you should have gotten nothing if the Neutral pin was not set up and if he fed Ground to Neutral from his house main panel you should not have had a problem although the GFI may not have liked it and may have popped too. All 50 amp outlets are basically 240 volt outlets and we just use one line or the other and the neutral but the ground line can figure in to the equation. Most homes should be Ground bonded to Neutral at the main box (never at the sub panel but not fatal to you if they are, just bad if you have a grounding short. Our coach should not be internally ground bonded, so you should have gotten nothing if his Electrician did not run neutral to the center pin, but strange things can happen. Any way lots of things to go wrong there. Hope you did not suffer a hard lesson. I will not plug in to any outlet without first hooking up our Progressive Industries EMS. It reads voltage, polarity, ground, neutral and whatever. It will not let me hook to anything bad, at least, not without warning me first. Hope on just your generator with the reset on the Magnum and the reset on the GFI, that you are ok. Good luck AND HEY Please be sure to let us know how things turn out. Otherwise Happy New Year Tom

Wow. That looks like some serious corrosion. Obviously, replace it. Locally for one of cables,if I don't have a big enough crimp I go to Interstate battery distributor who will make it on the spot

At the risk of repeating myself. I say again I put an oscilloscope on my 2004 model 2000 watt Magnum and it is a perfectly square wave. While most things will tolerate a bad waveform, when you can hear the difference in the motor between shore power and inverter power. Good mechanical sense says that just can't be the best thing for a motor. I am passively curious to know how many out there have replaced the old Magnum with the newer pure sine wave Magnum. It seems to be available in 2000 watt or 2800 Watt just bolt-in compatible with the old unit. I have been tempted but my wife said she'll kill me if I spend $1,800 on something that isn't broken, yet.

Sadly, we coaches of the lower model have no AH

I think it requires shore power or generator. I keep saying we will stay somewhere cold enough to test it, but so far it's just theory.

I am not concerned Rick. But they say modified sine, I put an oscilloscope on the now 19 yr old Magnum, and it is flat out a near perfect square wave. That said,the microwave runs on it but in DW's defense the motor cries when it is on inverter. I had to run the fridge on elect during a three week trip, (after burner failure while waiting 7 months on a new fridge back order), and was not always on shore power sites. With that 40+ amp draw on a 100% duty cycle, if I had not had the 600 amps of LiFePo, 600 watt solar and a 40-40 DC charger, we would not have made it.