Larry H

Thanks to all for the comments. The magnet did the trick, however I understand this might be a temporary solution. Currently running of propane until I get to where I have 30/50 amp service. I will post if the problem keeps happening.

Thanks. I will get a magnet and try it. Have not washed the coach and strong wind/rain not too likely given the sensor is mounted high in the box. It was working when I parked the coach 3 months ago.

My Norcold 1200 will not turn on (nothing when I hit the on-off button). Opening the outside panel, I see a red light on the retrofitted R-010 sensor that I don;t remember seeing before. The frodge was retrofitted with the Sensor R-010 years ago when a recall came out. I know there are issues with the Norcold 1200 but mine has worked great during the many years I have had it. Please advise. I have called the 800 767-9101 number on the tag and left a message. We are planning on leaving on a 3d week trip tomorrow. I have searched but can find nothing about the R-010 sensor.

Thanks to all for the great assistance. After getting the motorhome back from service I learned that a door not closed well was the cause with the front hydraulic slide not opening. (I would have not discovered this had it not been for your assistance.) The rear electric slide was still not working. I discovered that the ground wire to the rocker switch had come loose. I secured it to the center pole of the rocker switch and all is well. Again, thanks for all the assistance.

thanks very much. Where did you post the second coverage of the same topic? If there are 4 relays on my slides (2 for the front hydraulic slide and 2 for the back electric slides) can I assume there is no power to the relays (I.e. the ignition switch is not working properly or a bay door is not making contact? Can I check for power (signal from doors and ignition) to the relays? (I won’t be able to report on a solution but very much appreciate any and all advice.

I have a 2001 Dynasty and neither of the slides (electric and hydraulic) will not extend. Both operated a few days ago. The coach is currently in for body repair and we are taking a trip the day after we get it back. I am confident it is associated with the safety cutoff that keeps the slides from operating when the engine is running or the bay doors under the slides and not closed or one of the switches is faulty. I don't have access to my paper copy of the wiring diagrams and can't read the page for the bedroom slide on the .pdf version I downloaded. 1. Is there a way to determine if the issue is with the ignition switch or one of the doors? 2. Is there a fuse associated with this safety function? 3. Please provide any specific advice that will help we with troubleshooting in the short time I have available when I get the coach back.

Thanks for all the comments. I have pretty well ruled out a fresh water leak including the fridge. The spot is discolored but no new wetness. Your ideas about the washer lines and gray water over flow are still possibilities. Last time I checked, I was not losing Aquahot antifreeze. Will check that again. Comments about checking under the nearby cabinet is very helpful. Will do that. If the antifreeze Cisco OK and it does not occur the next time we wash, I will pretty much assume is was gray waret overflow and avoid letting it get too full.

Thanks for the quick responses. Your comment about the water lines appear correct. Drain rather than water line is worth checking, but the wet bay (Aquahot and water pump) and fresh water fill / dump valves, as well as the lav, toilet, and sink drains are 6’ or more in front of this point with the holding tanks directly below(black) and forward of this point. Drain lines appear to be running in the opposite direction. Thanks. Any additional ideas would be appreciated. At some point I will have to pull the carpet and cut through the floor or pull the wheel and take off the wheel well cover. I don’t like either of these ideas.

Hello all, On our first trip after the motorhome having been winterized during early winter, I discovered a leak in the water system that shows through the carpet in front of the right side of the bedroom TV (thus over the passenger side rear wheel). It seems to be worse when the lines are under pressure but does not seem to make the pump cycle on and off, at least not frequently. Currently we are not using city water and turning the pump on and off after use, releasing some pressure after turning pump off. We have an Aquahot but I don’t think I am losing any antifreeze and it is to the rear of the bay housing thr Aquahot. I can’t tell for sure whether the water showing up on the carpet is warm or cold but think cold. Is it likely a pin hole in waterline under the floor and what is the best way to repair it?

Using a better y other than lead acid wet cell will reduce the maintenance if you treat it right

I believe earlier and also real inexpensive sewer hoses might fit but heavy duty ones with nice fittings will not.

Did you replace the master cut off switch in the rear panel or the “salesman switch” at the entrance? In either case have you got 110 at the capacitor associated with the master cut off? Also, are you getting 110 when on shore power or generator?

I had a similar problem on my 2001 Dynasty. A main cable runs from the cut off switch at the right rear of the coach to the fuse panel at the lift front. I had 110 volts on the outside of the cage containing the fuses but none in the inside. The bolts where the cable comes through the panel needed tightening. That is a possibility. In any case use your coach/chassis wiring diagram to isolate the problem.

Is there a fuse box diagram pasted to the door?

I after with above comments. Like the site the way it is. There are advantages to all of the potential changes but also downsides.

Unless it has changed since 2001, the cell phone antenna wiring is under the dash on the driver side. In my case there is a panel (about 6x12”) on top of the dash. Take that off an you can see a rolled up coax cable that is tied to the antenna above the driver’s side window—assuming no change since 2001. In the case of the Bluetooth link, it may be active. While in the coach with it running, Check Bluetooth links on your phone and see if you see one you can’t identify. Your manual should address this.

If there is a removable panel about 12”x6” on top of the dash in front of the steering wheel remove it and see if the cable atom the DS antenna is rolled up there. I think it is to serve as the external antenna of a cell phone of 20 years ago.

If the same as my 2001 Dynasty, the one on the PS is the CB antenna and there was an inadequate effort to provide a ground plane. I think some folks have glued a piece if flat sheet metal onto the roof around the antenna as a solution. unless I am mistaken, it doesn't have to be grounded to the antenna--just has to reflect signal. the one on the DS is for a cell phone and is a different type which needs no ground plane. I am not an expert in this area--just researched it years ago when trying to improve my CB reception.

You asked about the 12v breaker panel for house lights—in my 2001 Dynasty, the panel in the cabinet above a set of 3 drawers at the rear of the coach beside the closet.

I think the door hangs from the top with a roller above the handle (which let's call front) and one all the way at the other end of the door (let's call back). From the picture, it looks like that back roller has come lose. Try pushing in on the bottom of the door to get it vertical, then, while maintaining it in a vertical position, sliding it out. I think you can take it off for repair once you have it all of the way out (i.e. closed). I am not expert, but that is what I would try. Good luck.

Gary, I hate to change the subject but must question your statement that Jack’s are for stabilizing and not leveling. It is my understanding that scissor jacks on a trailer are only for stabilizing the RV but that hydraulic leveling jacks on a motorhome are for leveling. Because the 4-jack HWH jacks are designed in such a way to always raise 2 jacks at a time, the reduce the risk of popping a windshield or other damage. My single front jack system accomplishes the same thing in a different way.

Gary, that is what I was doing—dumping the tanks. I have since been told that is bad for your system. I have a dump switch on the dash that, with the key on, this slowly lowers the coach—so slow I open the door so I can see it going down. The tanks retain most of their pressure.

I have a 2001 Dynasty and it is very slow My son has a 2001 National Trade Winds and it is very fast. I think that is normal for your RV

You said “I need to go with Blue Ox Avail “ but if I understand right you don’t know what you are pulling, what breaks you are using, etc. Why not put the whole package together, baseplate and all, once you have your dingy. Might even find a dingy that is set up for something else.

If your power cord unplugs from your RV, the source where you are plugged in and the power cord are easy to check with a volt meter. A cord with one bad hot wire will have the effect you described. Do the simple checks first.