Joel & Susanna

I would not, the slide seals are not engaged.

Same coach, same cat generator. You should be able to start from inside, or at the generator

I appreciate the responses to my issue of the bedroom slide rear track binding up. Magically I was able to retract the slide after giving it a rest and removing the old AA battery that was caught in the rear roller. I jokingly asked my wife if she had lost any batteries from any devices but this was in there quite some time. I tested the motor on the garage bench and it worked fine. I was careful to position the slot back where it was prior to removal. I never found the controller assembly or the source of the clicking but it was not in the battery bay. I believe it is in a large box under the bed. As soon as it warms up a little I plan to dig into this area further for the slide still lags on the rear track. The issue I believe is mechanical, not electrical however I plan to switch the motor leads once I dig in the area under the bed. Thank you all for the responses so far

Thank you so much for your time and input. The control board is not in the battery bay, the harness goes inward towards the center of the coach. as soon as I find it I will swap leads to determine if it's the motor or not. I think it might be located in a large box under the bed, not exactly convenient lol. I really appreciate this site!!

I have two motor assemblies, one located above the wheel well and the other which was not working in the battery bay. I removed the motor assembly in the battery bay and bench tested it only to discover there was a locking tab on the back of the motor. The motor worked, I don't know why this tab was in the locked position but moving it allowed the motor to work. Remounting the motor and the roller the slide worked but the rear motor assembly struggles to keep up with the front motor, seems to be weak. There is nothing that I can see under the slide that would seem to drag that side of the slide but it is slower.

I'm going to check that motor (in the inverter battery bay) in the morning. Thanks for the tip, will post the update

Hope someone can point me in the right direction. Our Cheetah has four slides. Our curb side bedroom slide appears to be hung up on the rear track and the entire slide will not come in. I removed and inspected the roller in the inverter compartment, found a very old AA battery which may have been wedged or near the roller. Reinstalled the roller, still hung up on the rear track. Any comments or thoughts will be appreciated.

I put the foam tube (pipe insulation) inside (backside) of the door awning supports. Indeed the howl was pretty loud but it certainly worked as a speed warning! Cheap fix.

Lol, I went to Lowe’s and bought foam insulation for water pipes, shoved it in !

Indeed I had the same noise but we filled the awning supports over the door completely and the whistle went bye bye!

Very nice, may I ask price?

Regarding the question for keeping the chassis batteries up while in hibernation, could a temporary fused jumper be clipped on between the chassis and house batteries positive terminals allowing our inverter to keep all the batteries up? They do share a common ground. I’ve thought about this but have not done it but... My chassis batteries are two sealed 12’s in parallel, house are four 6’s in a series parallel confit like most others. What could be the down side?

on my 04 safari the abs control board is in the compartment below the drivers seat. my reset red button switch gets dirty, i spray contact cleaner in there, work it a few times and the light goes away i hope this helps your issue

Besides, with the genset running, your not burning LP for the fridge and the wife can then fry or grill you a 60 mph hamburger lol.

Thanks again, I am learning so much from you all about this unit. We are on a trip to Branson at the moment, not sure if the fans are being activated but I’m now watching this carefully. When we get back from this trip it will be my first priority to check out. Max temp so far was 191 on AC, I have it running on LP max temp 184, not moving however. I will bypass the control board tonight and see if the fans work.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info and link. I never waited to see if it came back on by itself. Now the question is, if I’m producing too much heat with LP, there is a valve right there that perhaps needs to be throttled down to match the boiler temp using shore or generator power? I might give this a try. I think it is full on now.

Our fridge is giving us a small problem when running on LP. The ARP controller is shutting down the power to the controller board when using LP after 10-30 minutes. I stop, reset the power, go for another short while. On 120 shore power or on the generator, the fridge runs forever and very satisfied with cooling. Can anyone share what might be going on, I do not have the setup info on this controller, the readout seems to be measuring? Any info sure would be appreciated. I had this fridge rebuilt by a fly by night shop five years ago, their gone, so is my ARP info!

I would suspect a failing contact on you xfer relay or related connections in that area. Weak connections start fires so I would not ignore this issue. I would think your inverter is operating as it should. Hope this helps

A lighter cable with smaller internal wires (ie 10, 12, or 16 gauge) will not provide the required voltage to your AC units, fridge, etc. Stay with your original power cord with the required 6 gauge internal wires.

Could it be that your shore power neutral is swinging to the lower leg thus this is how your getting high 145 on L1 and low 50 on L2. Unplug and measure the campground socket. Measure neutral to ground also. I had a campground supply did this and that blew my inverter, sat receiver and a DVR costing me over $1800.

Found steering diodes in line with the trailer / toad light socket with one of the diodes being bad. Problem solved. thanks folks

Ok folks, I wonder if anyone had this issue with your rear turn signals and brake lights. Our 04 Safari Cheetah has never challenged me more to hunt down the issue. I’m normally pretty good at chasing down problems but this one is frustrating. The right amber and red brake lights flash perfectly, the left amber and red brake flash perfectly however the right ambers join in on the fun to drive me nuts. I have checked all related fuses, relays, all front and side markers work perfectly. Oh, the little turn signal bell works as it should with the right activated, when turning left it will sound at about every fourth flash! No leds lamps in the rear, I looked at the rear wire looms and no visible charring or discoloration. First to help me correct this gets a big attaboy

Thanks all so very much for all the support and great info link on IRV2. I dug into this and discovered I could drop the roller assembly out from inside the battery compartment and guess what, a pretty stout ball point pen was wedged in perfectly, to lock it up. Problem solved. Thanks again, Joel & Susanna Iacono

Thanks for the input Bob, but this is a bedroom slide with a single gear track in the middle bottom and appears there are two rollers. When this worked there is little holding the top of the slide in other than its weight. I’m thinking a roller has popped out of its holder, a rather crappy design. Hopefully I am wrong but I see nothing under the lip other than the two rollers and the rear seems to be higher than the front. The wife said it was the last big bump I hit, oh somebody help me prove her wrong!