Gary_Curtis

I had a similar problem....turned out to be the hazzard switch. Found the replacement unit on eBay.

I have found that the 110 system provides intermittent power when the generator is maxed out. I had three air conditioners and the fridge going at the same time and was trying to use a power tool plugged into one of the receptacles in the storage bay. I turned off the Air conditioning units and 110 power was stable at the receptacle. I never did the math but my generator provides 10KW. An air conditioner consumes about 1000 watts. A full size Refrigerator about 1000 watts. My power tool (10 in table saw) 1500W. When you add all that up it is only 5.5 KW but my generator may not be putting out 10KW. I have no way to actually measure its output.

I recently drove from Winnipeg to Cincinnati without the alternator on my 2007 Beaver Patriot. The air-conditioner compressor bearings froze up and the belt was destroyed. First sign of trouble was the engine started to die when the voltage dropped below 12 volts. I started the generator and drove several hundred more miles with the generator charging the Chassis batteries through the Big Bird Relay. I found a belt that was the proper size to eliminate the AC compressor yet turn the generator at a NAPA autoparts and drove the Beaver on home. This is the second time the AC Compressor has failed in 50K miles... definitely the weak link in the CAT 13 Powerplant.

This happened to me and the Solenoids were the problem...they were burnt badly. I bypassed them to get the slides and 12V house power back to the matrix. It worked so well that I have yet to switch them back after a year. I got replacement Solenoids off of Amazon for $35 each. I'll get to it one of these days. It would be nice to use the +12 volt cut-off switch in the stairwell at night. Before you reach in there you need to disconnect the batteries. Then take the wires from the right side of the Solenoid and move them to the left side. Keep the wires connected to the black "High-Amp" circuit breakers. Don't over tighten the Solenoids or the black plastic will crack...ask me how I know. You need to get some compressed air and blow out your rear run box. things are pretty dusty in there.

Maybe a rocker switch with 12v to the motor, bypassing the remote control is a better solution.

The schematic is for 2007 Monaco. Connectors could be different on yours.

This is the black connector in your picture 5

If you take your volt meter and check pin 5 and its 12 volts all the time turn on your ignition and pin 4 is 12 volts when the key is on and pin 1 is ground then that plug likely leads to a trailer brake controller that is not installed on your unit.

In photo 1, the yellow connectors are not standard...someone has tapped into a signal to drive some accessory. Where does that white wire go that loops through the box and out the the top and the same for the black wire out the bottom? The grey jacketed wires are not standard automotive wire either. Someone has modded the electronics along the way.

In photo 2 it looks like the red connector is for an option that you might not have. It may drive a micro-switch to break the flow of 12 volts. Like when you open your door the step light would come on, or a switch to control a lamp in the electric compartment... could be a lot of things. in photo 3, the white 4 pin modular connector is very common in RV components. Usually the connector connects to a pc board the contains a 4 pin bosch style relay. The white wires will have a signal printed on them to give you the idea of the what circuit it is driving. in photo 4, the black connector is where you would plug in a Bosch style relay. You would have to look at the back and see what signal wires are there to determine what the relay is for. Could be something like daytime driving lights that are not needed in US but are there for Canada. in photo 5, that looks like a connector for your electronic brake controller. Is your motorhome wired to tow a trailer?

I can feel your pain! I had an issue with some burnt wires on my 2007 Beaver Patriot. I was lucky enough to find the schematics and from there, with hours of study, I figured out how my brake lights worked. Look closely in your second image. You will find that each white wire is marked. Two that I can read are Ignition and Exhaust Brake. Those markings are also on the schematics. Each modular connector has a number in the schematics with the pinout and labels...unfortunately the modular connectors are not marked with a number. Most of the circuits are a simple relays so you can follow the signals from the battery through a fuse to some some trigger signals such as a brake light signal and then you will find a path from the battery to ground through the main circuit. Take plenty of pictures to remember what went where and you can always add more labels for the next time. There are lots of arm chair electricians following this site to help diagnose the problems you are having. Just ask some specific questions with clear photos and you will get an answer. Don't give up! Remember there are only 2 ends to a wire.

Go to the Downloads section and download the parts list. On page 147-148 the shock sources are listed. That would be a good start.

I have a 2007 Beaver on the Monaco Roadmaster Chassis and it uses a separate relay to drive the brake lights (Rear Run Box, board 2-K4). This relay may be bad or there is a 15 amp fuse (RRB-2-F2) that drives it that might be bad in the RRB. The center (Cyclops) brake light is driven by the brake light signal (TS1- Brake Switch Terminal) in the front run box. (Dwg#38070227) Turn Signals.pdf

I have have used deep cycle AGM Marine/RV batteries in my Boats and RVs since the early 90s and have never had a premature failure. I do switch them out at 4-5 years because I don't want to be stuck offshore or in the Boonies with dead batteries. I will never own another wet cell due to corrosion of the battery terminals and around the battery rack. It never hurts to have capacity and that is what you are buying over a standard starter battery.