Howard

Are the circuit breakers kicking off, or the EMS system shutting it down. On my Diplomat, I have two AC's. If the power drops, or if I am running too much electrical stuff, the rear AC is the first thing my EMS shuts down.

Actually, the unit is so quiet that you can barely tell when it cycled on and off. I usually kept it at about 70 in the bedroom at night, and I don't think it cycled too many times.

I replaced my rear unit on my Diplomat with the Houghton last year and love it. It cools and heats very well and runs very quietly. The only drawback is that the fan runs all of the time, and doesn't shut off when it reaches the set temperature like the Dometic, if that is bothersome to you just shut it off with the remote. We spent June through August at Doheny SB last year and the Houghton would keep the whole coach comfortable with no problem. When its time to replace my front unit, I will probably go with the Houghton, and just keep my furnaces wired into my old thermostat. I was told by the tech that installed it that the RJ11 telephone cable that goes from the thermostat to the AC has nothing to do with the Furnace, as they are wired differently to the thermostat. The tech just unplugged it and both the front and rear furnaces work fine.

Amazon, Lippert 134993 RV Carpet Protection Slide-Out Slicker Brand: Lippert

I replaced my rear duo therm on my 2004 Diplomat with the Houghton 15 btu with the heat pump and remote controlled (right around $1150 delivered). I bypassed the rear station on my thermostat, and have the heater hooked up to the front station that still has the duo therm unit. This unit works great, and is super quiet. I live in the high desert area of SoCal, and we recently had temps in the low to mid 90's. I just ran this unit to see how it does, and it kept my entire RV at a comfortable temperature with it set at 74 deg. This draws about 3/4 of the load that the Duo therm does. So far I am happy with it. I will be spending several months this summer along the coast, so I will see how it does with the heat and humidity. If it does well, I will probably the front unit with one also. It's not quite a convienient as having everything run off from one thermostat (These will not work with a wall mounted thermostat), but I can deal with that issue.

If yours has the aluminum roof, you should use aluminum rivets to reattach it. Steel screws or steel rivets can cause a chemical reaction with aluminum and cause the aluminum to corrode, and erode away. You might use a little larger rivet in the same home, or drill new holes close to the old ones.

I just had my floor redone with laminate wood look. The first thing I bought before using the slide were Lippert slide out slickers to protect the flooring. I used four on the Drivers slide out.

Steve, I have a 2004 Monaco Diplomat

Does anyone know how to access the gear driven step cover motor. My step cover is partially in, I can hear the motor turning but the screw is not moving. There is very little room to work, and the motor is recessed about three feet in.

I agree that the post has gone off the rails. Can we get back to the "Increase Power in ISC" subject. As I said before, I'm looking in to the AG Diesel Solutions device, I have a 2004 8.3 330 hp Cummings. Has anyone any information on this unit? https://www.agdieselsolutions.com/ I would really like to find more information on this device...

I was looking into the AG Diesel Solutions device, I have a 2004 8.3 330 hp Cummings. Has anyone any information on this unit? https://www.agdieselsolutions.com/ 12100 – 1998-2005 8.3L & 9.0L with CAPS Pump Cummins – Performance Module (1 customer review) $737.26 Starting at $67/mo with Affirm. Prequalify now FITS: 8.3L & 9.0L Cummins w/ CAPS Fuel Pump engines MODULE PERFORMANCE: Up to 30% Horsepower Increase and 10-20% Fuel Savings

Cost/time wise mostly. I plan on keeping the unit and am not too concerned about someone down the line not liking the system. I need to use the unit for an extended period of time in the near future at the So Cal Beach area. The AC went out on us last August while we were there, the front (15K Dometic) AC really got overworked, especially because of the humidity. I found that if I replaced it with a newer duo therm, I would also have to buy some type of electrical adapter (about $300) so that it would be compatible with my existing wall thermostat. One technician told me that I would have to replace both units because the adapter works both stations. That would put be at well over three times the cost of the one RecPro. I had to drop quite a bit of money in it recently, because of slide out leaks, we just purchased it last August, and are the third owner. I figured that if we aren't happy with the RecPro. I will upgrade to two new penguins next fall.

I was looking in to replacing my rear AC/heat pump unit with a Recpro 15k Btu AC with heat pump. This unit has a built in thermostat with it's own remote, so I won't tie in to my existing Wall thermostat. My question is, will I still be able to use my wall thermostat to control the front AC and my furnace, if only one unit is connected to the wiring?

Has anyone used a RecPro 15K Air Conditioning unit with a heat pump, and if so, how would you rate it. I cannot find any reviews on the RecPro AC units.

Thank you, sent email...

I found this info. Hope it will be of help... Replacing a Dometic AC/Heat Pump on a Monaco Coach Replacing a Dometic AC/Heat Pump on a Monaco Coach I just replaced a Dometic Penguin AC Heat Pump on our Monaco coach. I included lots of detail and hints so this is a long post! Our rear heat pump went full hot a few weeks ago. The electromagnetic coil that operates the heat pump reversing valve failed and it was blowing hot air. These older units were designed to operate in Heat Pump mode unless 120V is applied to a reversing coil. So when the coil fails the AC goes into heat pump mode. I tried a rare earth magnet on the valve as well as some of the other suggestions but none of that worked. I finally found a replacement coil for $32 and that fixed it but I had already decided to replace it. Our rear unit is the last of the three original 13,500 BTU heat pumps that came from the factory on our coach and I’ve wanted to replace it with a 15,000 BTU version. PPL motorhomes had the Dometic AC’s on sale so I ordered a new one. The Dometic model we used is 651816CXX1CO. It is a 15,000 BTU Penguin low profile (9 ½”) heat pump model. Dometic AC’s now come set up for the new 12 button CCC3 thermostat and our coach uses the 5 button CCC (comfort control center) thermostat. So I also ordered a Dometic #3313107.107 control board adapter kit (see picture). This new control board replaces the one that comes in the unit and makes it compatible with our 5 button thermostat. The first thing you have to do is install the new control board. I’ve done this previously on a standard Dometic AC and it was easier. The new heat pump model adds two extra wires for the electromagnetic coil and a slew of wires for the new CCC3. First you remove the large plastic shroud that covers the unit. It comes off with just 4 screws. Then there is a small metal cover on the right side of the unit that covers the control board/electrical wiring. Remove two small screws and tilt it back (it will remain attached because of the foam strips). First remove the upper row of wires on the board and push them out of the way. Don’t worry about what color goes where as the instructions will guide you through reconnecting wires. Now the hardest part in replacing the control board is to compress the PC board plastic standoff pins so you can remove the board. These are small plastic pins that the side tabs spread out as the board is pressed onto it. You have to depress these small plastic tabs to pull the board off. There are 4 standoff pins. The top 2 are easy to get at with a pair of needle nose pliers but the bottom two are buried. Just take your time and resist the urge to force it off. If the lock tabs are not visible, you can rotate the entire standoff pin so the tabs are at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions. Then use long needle nose pliers to depress the tabs while applying outward pressure from behind the board with a screwdriver. This latest kit came with new standoff pins in case you break one. Then you can lift the board up so you can easily remove the lower wires. You must set the “Dip switches” for your application (see picture) on the new board. Zone 1 is the default with no switches set to on. Zone 2 switch on makes it zone 2, zone 3 on makes it zone 3, or zone 4 on makes it zone 4. If your system also has a furnace or Aqua hot system, turn the furnace dip switch on for the appropriate zones. There are additional Dip switches (heat strip, differential, stage, and gen start) that may be applicable to your application. Check your old control board and repeat the settings it has on the new board. Try setting these with your finger nail as they can break if you use a screwdriver. You will need to install a new ambient temp sensor supplied with the kit. Next, just follow the instructions in reconnecting wires to the new board. You connect the lower wires to the new board before you fully install it so they are easier to access. Then install the board onto the standoff pins. Continue to follow the instructions step by step replacing wires. The board is labeled and the wires are color coded. You will have to cut two wire terminals off and terminate one and use a butt connector on another (you will need to supply these connectors). Double check all your connections and replace the small metal cover. There is a large bundle of wires and junction box that are routed down through the bottom of the AC air inlet. Tuck these in out of the way until you get it installed on the roof. The next part can be the hardest part. You must somehow get the 120# AC unit onto the roof of your RV. The accepted method is to use the longest ladder you can find and slide the unit up the ladder pulling it with a tow strap or rope (unless you have access to a forklift!). Some folks back a pickup truck up to the coach and run the ladder from the pickup bed to the coach roof. This helps the angle so you are not pulling it up vertical. My neighbors F-150 is only a few days old and he didn’t like this idea, but he did volunteer to get on the roof and help me pull. We put the AC unit back in the original box and put two small cargo straps around the box lengthwise. I then tied a 20’ tow strap to the cargo straps and maneuvered the box up to the base of the ladder. I tried to pull the box up by myself but was not able. With my neighbor helping it went pretty well. I then unpacked the AC and set it on the roof next to the one I was replacing. I had thought this through the night before and decided to install the new 15,000 BTU unit in the center position (replacing a 1 year old 13,500 BTU) and move the current 13,500 unit from the center to the rear. My reasoning is the front part of the coach is always a challenge to cool down in the heat and the rear bedroom usually cools easily. Now you need to go inside and remove the inside AC vent cover assembly. On our Windsor these just unclip and swing down. On our Exec and Sig the covers unbolt on one side and hinge down. Then remove the filter assembly so you can see the bottom of the AC and ducting from inside. The wiring and AC junction box are generally on the passenger side of the duct assembly. Pull the circuit breaker and remove the cover from the junction box and disconnect the 110v AC wiring. It should be connected white to white, black to black, and yellow/green ground to bare ground with wire nuts. The only part of this that’s difficult is if they screwed the junction box to the roof support and there is not enough clearance to get a drill/driver into place to remove the box. I had to use a shorty Phillips and remove it by hand. Take a picture and/or write down the DC wiring color code from what color to what color as well as which wires (yellow) are not connected to anything. I also cut the DC wires near the butt connector leaving ½” of the original wire connected. Then when wiring the new unit I can see what color was originally connected to each house wire and work my way through them. The AC units communicate with the thermostat through RJ11 telephone cords (they are actually reverse wired but unless you are replacing a cord it doesn’t matter). Just unclip both RJ11 cords. It does not matter which one goes where, they are interchangeable. Now you are almost ready to remove the old AC unit. IF you are replacing the same model unit, before you remove it make some lines with a Sharpie on the roof at each corner to help you center the new one. You need to remove four LONG bolts that go through the roof into nut plates in the AC baseplate. I use a drill/driver and a long extension to reach them. After the 4 bolts are removed you need to cut and remove the alum tape sealing the ducts together. Now you are almost ready to remove the AC from the roof. Some coaches utilize a condensation drain system. This consists of 2 small plastic “cups” screwed to each front corner of the AC base plate with a cross hose and connector to the coach drain hose. If your coach has this system, disconnect the hose from the cross tube to the coach drain hose. Now lift the old AC unit off of the roof. Some folks glue them down with silicone sealer although Dometic does not recommend it. If yours is glued down, take a long screw driver and inert it in between the foam gasket and roof in several places until you can break it loose. Clean the roof well removing the old sealant and gasket. The new AC unit comes with a new roof gasket. However, if your coach has the drain system, you will need a second foam gasket so the condensation cups and hose do not get crushed when you tighten the new AC to the roof. Remove the drain system from the old unit and reinstall on the new one. Cut a small groove into the foam gasket that comes on the new AC unit so your drain hose can go from side to side. Seal this groove to the drain cross hose with some sealant and install the second foam gasket over it. You will also need some foam spacers for the four corner supports of the unit to help stabilize it on the roof. Some coaches will use a connector duct in between the AC base outlet duct and the coach inlet duct. This is just a small sheet metal duct 4” X 4 1/4” and 2-4” long depending on your roof thickness. You will need to remove this from the old AC and screw it onto the bottom side of the new AC outlet baseplate. You may also have to reconnect the drainage hose (sometimes this can be done from inside). Note: If you have a Newmar coach you need to be cautious here. They use different ductwork than the rest of the RV community and require some special separators between the AC and the ductwork. Now the trick is to properly place the new AC unit over the opening centering the AC outlet duct over the coach inlet duct. You are not supposed to slide it in place, but lower it in place so that one duct fits into the other. This will take two people. If you are by yourself, you can position the AC on its side next to the opening and gently swing it sideways down into position so as not to crush the ductwork. It would help here to have someone inside guiding as you lower it, otherwise you have to go inside the coach yourself and look at your alignment. You can make small adjustments pushing from inside, but anything large and you need to go back on top and try again.

Okay, sound fine, thanks again...

Hi Dwight, I was wondering if you had any update on the timeframe on picking up the AC's. No rush, I just have a couple of Dr. Appointments to work around...Thanks, Howard

Sweet, thanks a bunch. Just let me know when and ill drive on over...

I would be interested Dwight, I have a 2004 Monaco and I need to replace the rear duotherm. I live in Apple Valley, and can easily make the drive to pick them up