Texomaman73

If you have a slideout above this area, I would expect it to be a leaking hydraulic cylinder for the slideout.

SafeCo was good to me!

I pulled all the fuses associated with levelling, hwh, and tag axle and all checked good, I did clean all the tangs on the fuses as they were somewhat corroded. I took the hwh control panel out and cleaned any corrosion I found but it didn't look like any of it had crossed electrical connections and I blew out all the dust and debris. When I tried after this, I noticed that I never get a green light on the hwh panel, not during start up or when I turn the air on or level the coach, I also don't get a light on my tag axle switch when I engage it. I called hwh and to get someone from service to call you back there is a month and a half waiting list, which I am now on, lol! I asked them what the cost would be to replace the touch pad and the brain below it and they weren't much help either, they just said to send it in and if the cost was going to be more then $300 they would call and ask what I wanted to do. Anything else I might try, Is this the same touchpad that ya'll have?

Yes, I have tried this to no avail. When I start it up it does not go into travel mode and I have driven it and it will stay in the position it was in when I levelled it, which can be way off. I can level it on a level surface and then raise the coach and it drives ok, but that is only if I have a level surface to start with.

I have the HWH levelling system on my 2000 Monaco Executive and it will not go into travel mode. It will level the coach and raise and lower but will not go into travel. Tried the reset in the manual and it still doesn't go into travel mode. What might be the problem? Thanks in advance for any advice.

I had my warning light come on about a year ago, after having it in storage for a couple months. Same thing happened to me, everything looked good and it ran same as always. I did some research on here and found where people had same issue and never found what was causing it but they continued to use MH as normal. I'm not a big fan of driving a vehicle with a warning light on but I needed to get the tires and I already had an appointment so I went anyway. Drove it about 300 miles round trip to put some new tires on it and the warning light never went out. It ran fine and without issue! A couple months ago I was taking MH to Dallas for some repair work and when I got it back out of storage the warning light was still on however this time I brought it to my house and plugged electrical in at house so I could have heat overnight before going to Dallas the next morning. Woke up and started MH and warning light was gone. Took coach to Dallas had repairs done and picked it up and drove it back home 350 miles total and warning light never came on again. I believe that the batteries were low and it being plugged in overnight charged them to a level that was acceptable. This may not be your issue but it doesn't cost anything but a little time to check.

I think I found out what the problem was and it could possibly explain what happened to you also. My MH was in a storage building that does not have electricity and I go out there every month to run it for about an hour to keep the batteries charged up and everything lubricated. The last time I went out to run it I had trouble starting it and had to use the battery boost to get it to start, I had it scheduled to go in for some body work in Dallas yesterday so the day before I went to bring it to the house so it would be closer and I could remove what I didn't want going to repair shop and we had to jump it. I plugged in to 50 amp service at my friends shop and let it charge all night. When I went to start it yesterday morning, it fired right up and there was no warning light. Drove it 250 miles to Dallas and it purred like a kitten. Thanks everyone for all the help, you all are great! Jeff

When I took the picture, the MH was on a hill and the fuel gauge read in the red, but on level ground there was a little over half a tank, but I will fill the tank this morning in case you are right.. Richard, I agree that it should have been filled before I put it in storage

Hello all, I started my MH and the warning light on the dash is on. The check transmission light is not coming on and the coolant level is good as is the oil level. Drove MH from storage to my house (10 miles) and everything seems to working fine. Does anyone know what this warning light is about? Thanks in advance, Jeff

Thanks Willbo and Ivan!

Ivan, did you change out only the steer tires or all 8 tires, and also I only have the hwh levelling system (air only) no jacks of any kind and if I change out the front to a taller tire what wont that mess up level while camped? I just called Tires Direct and they do not have any 75R's and he looked at the Michelin website that they order from and michelin doesn't make that tire in the 75r, he suggested the M177 as a good steer tire, does anyone have knowledge on the M177 tire. Thank you all for the advice and comments.

I have to buy some steer tires for my MH and am looking at the Michelin X tires in the title. I looked in the tire and wheel post and was not able to find anything on them and only what dealers say about them online. I was wondering if any of you have any direct experience with these tires. I was also trying to find the Toyo M144 but they apparently do not come in the size I need 295/75r22.5, as I don't have the room to run the 295/80r22.5 on my coach. All comments will be appreciated!

Thanks for all the suggestions gentlemen! I over thought it but found a simple fix, I disconnected the duplex that the instahot was plugged into and now it appears everything is working again and I have no voltage on the chassis. I am not sure but I am assuming that the duplex under the sink was wired incorrectly with the hot to the neutral or the ground. After disconnecting the duplex I have checked all the outlets throughout the coach with a circuit tester and they all show to be wired correctly. What was confusing me was I believe that I was getting feedback through the automatic switching circuit that tells the coach if it is supposed to be running on generator, shore power or inverter when I was ohming between legs in the outlets.

First off this is a new to me coach and I can only vouch for what I know about it currently. Just installed a televator in place of couch in the slide out and used the electrical outlet under the kitchen sink that had an instahot plugged in that no longer worked. I have the motorhome plugged into a 50 amp service and when I turn on the power for the "old instahot" now the power to the televator everything seemed to work fine. After a while I noticed that the lift for the televator would start to drive up and then go back down randomly. I thought it was interference from other electronics but when I was attempting to adjust an outside compartment storage door, I got a pretty healthy shock. Got my DVM out and found that I had 120 volts on the chassis. If I toggle the switch that sends power to the outlet there is 120 volts present on the chassis even if I unplug the cord to the televator and tv so It isn't the new tv of lift. With the switch off no 120 present on chassis, so I thought the cord that runs from the toggle switch to the duplex had a short but ohming it out shows it is ok. What I did find was the other cable that comes into the electrical box behind the toggle switch (which I presumed was the power in) does appear to be shorted to ground, in fact I checked multiple outlets in the coach and they all appear to be shorted across all legs, hot, neutral and ground all are connected, what is going on?

Are you sure you have water in the holding tank? On city water it is pressurized and on my coach you have to turn a valve to fill the fresh water tank. Just a thought.

You are right Chargerman! I thought his original post stated that it was just one zone that wasn't working on engine heat, but I went back and re-read it and it clearly states no vents were working. I confused his post with another that was talking about two zones working and the third not. Thanks for pointing out my error!

If all zones are working on diesel and electric, then I don't see how there could be a vapor lock in the lines. I would think it has to be in the switch for the engine heat! I am very new to all this and hope my thought is not way off base.

Merry Christmas, Happy New Year and safe travels to all!

Thanks for the great website! Ya'll are doing an amazing job!

That is almost straight north of me, I got my drivers license in 1970 about the same distance south of where I am now in Sherman Texas. I googled Summit armor and nothing came up, do you happen to have contact information for them, my coach is missing a few slats and really takes away from the look of the mh, and I would like to fix it, and yours looks very nice! Jeff

Where did you get the radiator grill from, or did you just have your old one chromed?

The rvi3 brake system has brake lock detection that notifies you if the brakes are being applied and are not supposed to be to prevent accidental brake application on the toad. I hope this works as it is supposed to, but if I am not happy with it, I will add the upgrade you suggest. Does your mod just tie into the toads brake lights and give feedback when they are on? Jeff

Thanks everyone for all the advice! Very much appreciated and was critical in my decision. It was very close choice between the Air Force One and the IRV3 but I made the decision to go with the IRV3 portable brake system with the wireless breakaway system and the charge system. I like the ability to change it to a different vehicle in the future if I decide to upgrade my toad. Thanks again for all the good suggestions. Jeff

I have had my coach for a month or so and I am in the process of putting together a tow system for my toad. I am going with the Blue Ox base plate and the service center said I could get by with the 6500 lb Blue Ox tow bar, but it is just $200 more to go with the 10000lb bar and I am leaning on the heavy duty bar. My real concern is that even though I have air brakes on my coach I don't really like the idea of cutting into it to supply air to my toad and the Air Force 1 brake system, and I have been thinking about the Brake Buddy Stealth system that is a proportional system but won't have to modify my air system on the motorhome for the install. What are your thoughts pro and con of both systems and should I really be worried about cutting into my airlines on the coach. I have until tomorrow to decide which system to go with. Thanks for any advice. Jeff

Rob, I am living in Eufaula Ok. and am interested in the Dallas area to the OKC area at the current time, so the Dallas guy would be a nice contact to have if you happen to find it. I think I might have found a good repair shop in Claremore Ok. yesterday. I found a shop (RV Collection) whose owner (Eric) used to sell Monaco coaches until 2008 and he really couldn't stop talking about what an excellent coach they were. He was showing me the chassis diagram and explaining how well built they were like he was trying to sell me a one. He was a really nice guy and their shop charges $85 an hour compared to $125 an hour the other shops charge. I am going to put a list together and see what all they can take care of for me. Thanks for the reply and if you happen to come across the Dallas contact, I would be very interested in talking with him. Jeff