joefromperry

This is what the Omega II looks like. It has question-mark shaped arms that extend the topper to become a window awning. I "think" the Omega is just a topper, and doesn't have the awning part. I have one of each on my coach.

Thanks, Ivan. The slide I was having trouble with is the opposite side from the kitchen and couch. But, as I was just going to reply to Tom, after crawling under and disconnecting connectors and changing fuses, then cleaning/coating them all with DeoxiT, I ran that problem slide in and out three times. Go figure. I'll try again tomorrow to make sure I wasn't hallucinating. So, after crawling under and disconnecting connectors and changing fuses, then cleaning/coating them all with DeoxiT, I ran that problem slide in and out three times. Not sure why it suddenly. works; all the connectors and fuses look fine. Chris Talin will be my next connection if problems reoccur. I'll see how it behaves tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Tom.

Thank you very much, Tom. You've given me some things to look at, and I plan to do that today. I am curious, though, if my slideouts have rollers, and if so, can they be seen by me somehow. FWIW, the bottom of all my slide outs is in very good shape, with no warping, gouges, etc. (I probably just jinxed myself here.) Thanks again. I'll post what I find.

MODERATOR's EDIT. This issue is almost exactly the same or related to the current topic. SO, it has been merged END OF EDIT The driver side hydraulic slide on my 2003 Signature either does not move or moves jerkily (is that a word?) when trying to extend. It retracts more smoothly, but slowly. The passenger side slide works as it should. The reservoir is full. When I press the switch I can hear the motor run, but no movement. Sometimes, when slide is pushed from inside while trying to extend, is goes reluctantly.. Tapping on the solenoids (all of them, as I'm not sure which is the extend for that slide as I'm working alone) doesn't seem to do anything. The locks move freely. Looking for suggestions here. Is there a way to see the rollers for possible damage, if it even has them? I have a replacement solenoid that should arrive today; I had replaced the extend one on the generator slide last year. Thank you for suggestions.

UPDATE: problem solved (sort of). Although I haven't found where the purple cable attaches, I did solve the problem of no data showing up on my display. Once I saw all the little boxes on the top of the bay were receiving power and sending data, I realized the problem had to be just with video. Turns out the purple RCA cable in the picture above was connected to the Panasonic control box using a connector to another RCA cable. I decided I needed only one cable, so eliminated the connector and other cable, and suddenly I had the Aladdin video back. Just to make sure, while the Aladdin data was showing on the screen, I went back to the original setup with two RCA cables and a connector, and the display was gone again. So now I'm good. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. I will be looking to upgrade from the Panasonic monitor / radio, but until I do, at least I have the Aladdin info back. Here's the culprit: 73481257232__B016AE92-BD7C-464C-ABDA-702244FE9E94.heic

Can you hear the motor turning when you try to retract?

I use a Ridgid 18 volt portable air tool, as it uses the same batteries as all my other Ridgid tools. It will fill my steer tires to 115 pounds, and is small enough to easily. store.

from 2004 manual: Entry and bay door locks can be operated using the touch keypad located adjacent to the entry door. Three lock codes are pre-assigned and are unavailable for future use as unlock codes. • 555 - Locks entry door and bay doors if connected. • 557 - Locks entry door and bay doors if connected. • 559 - Locks entry door and bay doors if connected and arms keypad (flashes momentarily once every 15 seconds). NOTE: Due to preassigned codes, number(s) 5/6 cannot be used at the beginning of a new unlock code. 228 • SECTION 5 --- EQUIPMENT SIGNATURE 2004 060232 fuse panel.tif KEYLESS ENTRY 030883B Unlock codes should be personalized upon receiving the motorhome. Unlock codes have two categories: Master and Optional codes. Master code enables motorhome entry and auxiliary control. Deletion, adding or changing of Optional codes are performed at the Master code level. INFORMATION: Consult the system owner's manual for further information. • To lock: Shut the door. Enter one of the three lock codes to lock the entry door and bay doors, if connected. • To unlock: Enter Factory Default Master code or a three to eight digit personalized Unlock code, if programmed. All motorhomes equipped with the keyless entry are shipped from the factory with default settings. It is recommended the unlock code be personalized for security purposes. To Program a Personal Number: 1. Located in the curbside armrest is the Programming Switch, identified by a small black button with 22-gauge wires connected: Yellow is power - Black is ground. 2. Press the Programming Switch until four (4) rapid beeps are audible. 3. To open the memory for accepting the personalized Master Code, enter 1119 on the keypad at the entry door. 4. Enter the new 3 to 8 digit master unlock code within five seconds. 5. Wait five seconds for two (2) rapid beeps. 6. Test the new Unlock Code. 7. If the code was not accepted, repeat the procedure. WARNING: Ensure possession of entry door keys prior to testing new personal code. NOTE: These instructions are for motorhomes equipped with "keyless entry" only. SIGNATURE 2004 EQUIPMENT --- SECTION 5 • 229 030907 Keyless Entry Code Programming Keyless Entry Key Fob: The motorhome is equipped with a Key Fob to unlock and lock the entry door and the bay doors. • Upper left button on the Key Fob is used to lock the entry door. • Upper right button is used to unlock the entry door. • Bottom left button is used to unlock and lock the bay doors. • Bottom right button is not assigned. NOTE: The key fob operation distance is approximately within 50 feet of the motorhome. If the door locking mechanism is not audible, the marker lights will flash when the doors are unlocked or locked. NOTE: During any service work, it is recommended all key fobs be left with the motorhome for thorough testing and check procedure. If the Key Fob does not respond, and it has a new battery, the Fob may need to be authorized. • Locate the keyless entry receiver box behind the instrument cluster. • Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. • Locate the program button red in color. • Situate both Key Fobs within reach. • Hold down the program button for five (5) seconds. • While holding down the program button, press the Lock buttons on the Fobs, one at a time. • Release the program button. • Turn ignition switch OFF. • Test remote Key Fob. NOTE: If the motorhome is factory equipped with an optional security system, the security system remote will lock or unlock the entry door and bay doors when the system is armed or disarmed. However, if the entry door is locked and armed with the security Key Fob, it must be unlocked with the security Key Fob to disarm the security system. Using the keypad to unlock will not disarm the system. The keyless entry system can be used to unlock selected bay doors. To unlock the bay doors using the keyless entry system: • Enter the programmed unlock code. The entry door will unlock. • Within five seconds of the first sequence of numbers entered, press the number 9. and doorbell from same manual, but not dealing with replacing: The door bell button is located next to the entry door on the outside of the motorhome. The two-tone door bell chime is located in the vanity cabinet just under the sink. A momentary switch completes the 12 Volt DC circuit, activating electromagnets to pull a plunger down against a measured resonant metal plate and compress a coil spring. When the electromagnet releases, the spring forces the plunger up against another resonant metal plate with a different tone. SIGNATURE 2004 EQUIPMENT --- SECTION 5 • 227 Door Bell chime vanity.tif Face-plate. 031081 Face-plate removed. 031081b 031080 Exterior Door Bell Button Door bell chime: Located in Vanity Cabinet. If the chime fails to work, check the 20 Amp fuse rated #4 in the domestic fuse panel. If the fuse immediately blows again, there may be a short in that circuit. Consulting a technician is recommended. Items on the circuit include: • Hall Lights • Bath Ceiling Light • Vanity Lights • Door Bell • Baseboard Heater (Optional) If chimes seem sluggish, the plungers can be cleaned with a nonflammable cleaning fluid and wiped dry. NOTE: Never oil chime plungers.

That's exactly what I did on my 2003 signature.

I'm trying to figure out some stuff with the Aladdin system (#100) on my 2003 Signature. The two boxes in the pictures have various connecting cables, but as you can see, I have one purple RCA phono plug that has been disconnected. I would appreciate if anyone familiar with the system could tell me where to plug it in? The smaller box doesn't have any empty spaces, so do both ends plug into the same box? Thanks. Edit: I'm not 100% sure the other cables are connected where they. should be, either. System doesn't work. I'm going to troubleshoot, but need the cable(s) connected first.

That's exactly what I did when I replaced my radiator on my 2003 Signature with ISX 525 a few years ago. Make sure you change coolant filters to one without chemicals. I used a Napa 4113, but yours is probably different.

I got my replacement slide toppers and springs directly from Carefree by calling them and giving them the numbers from my build sheet. Perfect match to the originals, which were theirs in the first place.

Almost done changing all the puck lights from halogen to LED in my 2003 Signature. These are what I got from Amazon, 2700K, dimmable. Only adjustment I made was trimming just a smidge off the length of the bi-pins: https://www.amazon.com/OLÉ-Lighting-Flicker-Non-dimmable-Energy/dp/B0BFCM51B6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2LYEB9MNR6QQ9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.JYq8vnhGRpbe21XNgtjo5Jobk9-I3Z9oC3sA8Q9jAbQXHGuHKL5Tlbj9NWaJEL5h43GisBVWHudteTEswnjNMYsOlDs-4LsRLV0tu7YNfDL2zEBrZVMXQzB9S150CTE1JZMoyBx3ueHUK7A7pGrGbglSgI-GtPvUGdvMNn0wn_Nril0_YIAHqNpr-isw_yIq7JJZD3DaBRd8T4e5lJgHu9gvPxakOiOey5LXbInUiyTz0cX8izsm9du2HprJGbzG9F3-9VaxKTfKrm3fT5PTWJm_ljqH7zvzjqnlHCmoc3k.kP6xGA9ymWLlNrJCzpncycS6vCzDbAkgpy714CLZvvs&dib_tag=se&keywords=G4%2BLED%2BBulbs%2B2W%2BWarm%2BWhite%2BLED%2BBulb%2B2700K%2C%2B200LM%2BG4%2BLED%2BBulb%2B12V%2BAC%2FDC%2B180°%2BBeam%2BNo%2BFlicker%2BDimmable%2BEnergy%2BSaving%2BLamp%2BG4%2BBulb%2B(8%2BPacks)&qid=1711310183&sprefix=g4%2Bled%2Bbulbs%2B2w%2Bwarm%2Bwhite%2Bled%2Bbulb%2B2700k%2C%2B200lm%2Bg4%2Bled%2Bbulb%2B12v%2Bac%2Fdc%2B180%2Bbeam%2Bno%2Bflicker%2Bdimmable%2Benergy%2Bsaving%2Blamp%2Bg4%2Bbulb%2B8%2Bpacks%2B%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-1&th=1 What a big difference in brightness; these are 200 lumen, and going from 20 watts/bulb to 2 not only saves battery, but a whole lot less heat per puck. I did all the puck lights in the coach, living room and bedroom.

Update: after working through some troubleshooting with Westland tech, it's a real possibility that the problem is a loose wire somewhere in the unit. I won't be able to pull the washer until I get home, but will update then. The only alternative is a control board problem. like broken solder connection. He said boards were no longer available. Thanks for the suggestions.

Thank you, Tom. I'll do that today. It was my first thought, but I need to find it. However, in just messing with it now per Splendide's troubleshooting, if I set the dryer to 30 minutes and turn it on, the "auto dry" LED is on, and door lock/status goes on and dryer starts. Then, as I mentioned, the status light flickers and goes off, but the "auto dry" LED stays on, which tells me that I'm not losing power to the dryer and maybe it's. not the AES. Thoughts? Edit: I think the W/D is connected to my middle AC unit, not the bedroom. But your point is well-taken. I'll test that out, too.

Well, that's interesting. My remote has just one LED below the buttons, but if I push the center button, the LED flashes once, and if I push it again it flashes twice. I have only the big awning and a door awning. But I have a three-position wall switch for the door awning, top and bottom for in and out, and middle for off. I'll have to experiment to see if/how the remote does the door. With the door switch in the middle/off position, the remote doesn't affect it. Thanks for the info.

The Spendide washer/dryer, model WD2100 has worked fine in my 2003 Signature, until yesterday. Now when I start it everything seems good: door locks, water starts to fill, etc. But within a minute, it seems to lose power, the red light flickers and goes off, then starts up again where it left off for maybe 10-15 seconds, then repeats the shutoff. I went through troubleshooting section in the service/training/owners manual(s), but it doesn't really speak to this issue. I know the w/d is connected to the third air conditioner for load sharing, but this happens whether the ac is on or off. No matter which setting it's on, wash, spin, dry, etc., it does the same. Drum spins okay, so not belt. It's going to be a pain in the dupa to pull it out, if that's what I need to do. I'll call Westland tomorrow, but I thought I'd first see if anyone here has experienced and resolved similar. Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: so, after messing around with it and new(er) batteries, I discovered that it controls the Girard awning.

I have a white three-button remote with "somfy" on the bottom for my 2003 Signature, but have no idea what it's for. I've read maybe the Girard awning, maybe the interior window shades, or something else. It takes a 2430 button battery, but even with a new battery, it doesn't seem to control anything. Anyone have similar that can provide insight? Thanks.

This is exactly what I had to do with my 2003 Signature when it kept creeping out. I ended up replacing the solenoid/valve and all is good. I have the old one to replace the o-rings and keep as a spare.

On my 2003 Signature the access floor panel by the bed fits pretty snugly to keep heat / air from the inside. Once you release all four latches, give each some pretty good tugs and. it should come free.

+1 on FMCA. We had two tows within on year of our 45' coach, each of which would have cost us around. $1k (per towing service). I never had to do or sign anything; all taken care of quickly and efficiently. Also includes my wife and cars for no additional cost.

Thank you, Martin.

I would definitely be interested in the files, as my son has a 3-D printer. Cost of files for right and left sides? Thanks. Joe

At some point I got straps from Carefree that were too long and cut them to size.