Windsornut

I just had a new single piece windshield put in my '02 Windsor. Huge glass is totally floating, no glue used at all. Installation was quick and no overnight drying/setup involved. Original glass lasted 20 years pretty sure. AAA fiberglass RV Collision. Oklahoma City. Had much guidance from these folks to have them order right glass.

I check my front tire pressure anytime I stop for a break Don't have monitors for some reason. FYI, I think many folks may not know Michelin's take on front blow outs. Per website, they say to mash on the gas if you have a front blowout, it will raise up the low corner and give you more control for a safe stop. Asked an over the road trucker friend what he would do and without hesitation, he confirmed mashing on the gas.

I agree with CBR Bob, those folks at JC fridge are great! I did my my own install, They reacted fast for me and know their stuff!

I added lithium batts. and solar on top to my 02 Windsor. In the process I bought a LIBIM Lithium batt. mgr. The great big black relay (1/2 soda can size) was replaced on mine with the LIBIM, along with 1 or 2 other pieces. LIBIM main job is to direct alternator back and forth between house and chassis batts. Alternator charging big bank of lithium batts. can burn up from over work. If you're interested in this idea, the Battle Born batt. guys can help and also Chris can help on these older coaches at M-M rv electronics dot com I think. I think he probably has any parts you may need as well. The changeover can get a little complicated. I did a new Magnum inverter as well. MFFT more food for thought.

I am using 8 Battle Born lithium batts. and a Magnum 2812 inverter with auto Gen start adaptor and battery management kit and new control hard wired in house. and Li Bim talked about below to save alternator. 8 batts. can draw 110 or so amps on shore power but seems to be ok for the last year or so. For my 2002 system conversion I was finally lead to M&M RV Electronics. They are really good at this older stuff. Chris is the man! www.mmrvelectronics.com The problem on the system can be over taxing the battery charging alternator on the engine while long distance driving. In my case, the Lithium battery bank for solar panels is so large, it can pull way more energy/amps than the alternator can supply on a single steady charge so, something has to be installed to keep from cooking the alternator and that is an isolator of some sort. I installed a Li-bim (Lithium battery isolator manager) in place of the old isolator system components. Basically what it does is allow charging of house Lithiums, chassis lead acid batteries and then gives the alternator a rest (Cooling) these generally operate on a timing system rotating among all 3 stages while you drive. To be clear, I removed 3 major original pieces, charging 3 wire brick (trickle charge chassis batt. maintainer). (Isolator delay relay delay Diesel) And battery isolator relay. LiBim replaced battery isolator relay. My point is: All of these orignal components work well for lead acid or agm batts. Also including shore power charging. (All components are needed obviously). One more thing, I have found that many of the small black relays on the coach system are the same and available at places like Amazon. You have to look for small print. Hope this helps

I did the same as Bob, tightened my 3 bolts with a 7/16 socket about a half turn each on my '02 350 horse Cummins ISC. Could only see on drawing and feel, couldn't see to tighten. Been over a year, no leaks. I was impressed, they said it couldn't be done.

Fleetpride truck parts has many styles and locations nationwide. And are usually right on the money.

I am using LFP for the house and still have the huge lead acid batt. for the chassis. I know battleborn has recently introduced a heated version of Lithium batt. but, I haven't studied them or any results/opinions yet. Seems B-born just added a heater to each batt. I have no knowledge of the LFYP batts. as of yet. After about 5 years of trouble free use of LA chassis batt. I am very happy and it will be some time before I would consider making a change. (zero corrosion and tiny amount of maintenance & water). Greg

The problem on the system can be over taxing the battery charging alternator on the engine while long distance driving. I my case, the Lithium battery bank for solar panels is so large, it can pull way more energy/amps than the alternator can supply on a single steady charge so, something has to be installed to keep from cooking the alternator and that is an isolator of some sort. I installed a Li-bim (Lithium battery isolator manager) in place of the old isolator system components. Basically what it does is allow charging of house Lithiums, chassis lead acid batteries and then gives the alternator a rest (Cooling) these generally operate on a timing system rotating among all 3 stages while you drive. To be clear, I removed 3 major original pieces, charging 3 wire brick (trickle charge chassis batt. maintainer). (Isolator delay relay delay Diesel) And battery isolator relay. LiBim replaced battery isolator relay. My point is: All of these orignal components work well for lead acid or agm batts. Also including shore power charging. (All components are needed obviously). One more thing, I have found that many of the small black relays on the coach system are the same and available at places like Amazon. You have to look for small print. I would be interested to see an expansion of my thoughts on this incase more detail is needed. Hope this helps

I think I paid $20-$25 for the pair for my '02 Monaco Windsor Regular greased hubs. A company called Fleet Pride, pretty sure it's a national company. They have many Chassis parts and good prices too. Just replaced $15 air tank sending unit, other folks were $30. Also, they will usually take the time to answer questions about axles, brakes, tires and most other big truck chassis systems. I bought parts from them to change front hubs from grease to liquid gear lube. Just haven't done them yet. Greg B. '02 40' Windsor '03 Honda Odyssey toad