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Happycarz

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Happycarz last won the day on March 2

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Required Information

  • FirstName
    Harry
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Camelot
  • Year
    2008
  • City & State
    Scottsdale, AZ

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Community Answers

  1. If you don’t need the outside switch on the bottom of the awning arm, you can eliminate the SS cube relay and wire it directly from switch to motor.
  2. Ken, stop looking! You have only what is located behind the switch panel. If you had a wind sensor you would have a module, but the Carfree Eclipse has only what you have found. Mine is same way.
  3. With my Camelot, I use the pump 100% of the time. I leave home with soft water and it last 10 days to two weeks. If on long trip I fill my tank and continue with using my pump. My first pump lasted 12 years and I replaced it with the ARV 55, which had similar specs to the OE pump. This one has 5 years on it. When the pump is constantly used, it lasts. When the coach was new, the pump really rattled the plastic floor in the wet bay. I installed a small piece of piece of plywood using soft rubber mounts at the screws. Then I mounted the pump on the board in the same fashion, double insulated. Now it has to be dead quiet in the coach to hear the pump, or me concentrating to hear it. I leave the pump switch on 24/7. I like the volume and I like the flow of the pump. I usually plug the electrical cord in when I arrive at the campground and call it good. When either of my holding tanks get 2/3 full I’ll empty them. BTW, my new SaniCon turbo 600 can dump a tank in less than one minute. My last SaniCon took minutes and minutes to dump. For years I used my slinky. After researching, among friends, I jumped on the Turbo 600. I love it. So, to repeat myself, I’m one that uses the water pump exclusively for my onboard water supply.
  4. Kevi, What model Holiday Rambler do you have? Scepter? Or, other model. Pictures of rear run bay would help. Also, what are you adding to the electrical system?
  5. As Ben said, you can adjust these thermostatic switches. GM used these same switches 50 years ago. The capillary bulb on the end of the tubing monitors the evaporator temperature and applies pressure against a spring loaded set of contacts. If the evaporator gets below freezing, the contacts open, turning off the compressor clutch. Once the temperature rises and the capillary bulb pressure drop below the spring rate, the contacts close and the compressor engages. Using a small Torx, or even a flat bladed screwdriver, you can adjust the cycling temperature up or down from the outside of the thermostatic switch. But since the adjusting screw is out of sight, toward the firewall, it would be wise to unscrew it while trying the different adjustments. Once happy with the cycling temperature, screw it back on the evaporator box.. Yellow arrow points to adjusting screw on end of spring .
  6. http://acmeairparts.com/rvacheaterparts.html
  7. My Magnadyne is a variation of yours, but pretty close. There are two fuses for it. One is for the memory and clock, I believe, and other is to power it on.
  8. The valve with the gray knob is a tempering valve, mixing cold water with hot water. This is to prevents someone from scalding themselves when they don’t have the ability to adjust the shower knob.
  9. You have several Intellitec modules that control the lights and other things. Some coaches have them in the rear closet. Each circuit is fused at that module. The light switch will light up like normal but the lights won’t come on if the fuse is blown. If it is blown, you need to find out why. My Camelot has the lite version of the Intellitec system with only three modules. Yours has many more modules. But, you now know what to look for.
  10. Bill, Monaco got it almost right when spraying foam, but left some voids. I filled them in so all air had to travel through the cooling stack. Every year I give the stack the Simple Green treatment. Then every two or three years I unbolt the condenser, cut the foam away from the A/C lines and swing the condenser out away from the CAC. This allows me a better cleaning of the CAC and radiator. When leaving home when 110° and climbing 6% grades, I want the cooling system as close to 100% as I can get it. Ali, Does your dash A/C cool normally? If the condenser is leaking you would think the dash air would be hot.
  11. Model year 2008 Camelot had running changes, so mine is different than yours. The components do the same thing, they’re just laid out differently Hope this helps.
  12. #2 is your CAC, intercooler. #3 should be your hydraulic cooler. The transmission cooler should be underneath between the radiator fan and engine, down low. It will be a square box 4” x 4” , 24” long (approx) with a radiator hose at each end two hydraulic lines.
  13. Hey Kurt, Sorry that I missed this post of yours. Yes, I did use one fuse, to keep it simple. That was many years ago and has never failed.
  14. Hi Loel, I ordered this coach and took factory delivery. The only repair on the water heater is the flex line that was getting hard and cracked. So, being proactive as I am, I replaced it. I added the black pipe insulation on the red PEX. Other than those two things, what you see is factory original. Theres a reason they are called snowflakes, with each being different.
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