Rikadoo

So is it just me or does the seat start to get uncomfortableas your nearing the end of the trip☹️ the last 500 miles got me makin more get an walk stops☹️

Hey one more thing, just trying to keep the information flowing, if ever you need a circuit board repair i found this maybe on our website i dont recall however its a good one to keep in your information base, cause sooner or later you may need it

So a coworker showed me a website the other day, connector experts.com, before that i have used digikey.com

I would start with making sure the master switch for the furnace (remove the outside cover) is in the on position. I had to turn one off cause once it started it would not turn off (was a bad t-stat) then check your power an grounds at the furnace control board.

Hey heres another 2 cents worth of information… after cleaning the rollers rather than using a grease to lube or a spray on oil, i now use a spray on dark graphite, dirt an dust dont collect an prevents rust.

That looks like you have lost or had the adjustment stops fall out of adjustment. On either side there are bumpers that the slide out is supposed to hit to limit its travel. Look to see what happen to them.

Here is some printed info that came with my stinger kit years ago. Now im not sure that gale banks is concidered the “burning bush” however im sure somewhere the team that engineered the stinger kit must of had some idea of what was what. One other piece of information i will call “personal knowalage” is that all the years of working on military trucks then for the 10 years of working on OTR rigs Not one time can i remember EVER seeing a pre turbo egt! Now thats not to say they dont have there place, but i can say the vast majority of drivers “OTR” could care less about intake EGTs as they were more worried about the tattel tales that were being installed that watched there every driving issue. In fact just to add a little something extra to this pile of EGT history information is how many pairs of vise grip pliers i would collect from truckers that used to pinch off the fuel return line so the truck would inject more fuel due to base line fuel pressure would increase. Back then the world believed smoke was power!!! So excuse me if i dont get fall into all this knowalage wars of intake temps vs the science of egt temps cause you will find many differing opinions written or folk lore tales. I understand we all pull loads of weight, and yes i know knowledge is power, but at the end of the day just having a baseline of info is crucial, and after that its just personell preference as to what your willing to risk to get your load “over the hill”.

So with original vehicle old school headlight switches, aka chevy, ford, dodge. The headlight switch had a internal breaker for the headlights, then the park lights were fused. (Spoiler alert many electronic devices were borrowed from those Mfgs in the earlie days) So it was possable to lose one but not the other. Try this test, when the lights fail, if your high beam switch is also your turn signil lever, at the moment the lights fail, then pull back on the stick and hold it there… AKA, flash to pass, do the lights come back on? Yes: its most likely the headlight switch. No: you have a breaker feeding the headlight switch that 💩the bed… reason was older systems used the same power wire for the flash to pass also fed the headlight switch. So if it is the headlight switch as the lights fail, touch the stem of the headlight switch, switch… is it 😡HOT. If so the headlight circuits may have too much resistance, if you replace the switch and it still gets hot your search for the problem still exists, cause by replacing the headlight switch, was just the symptom.

Very nice!

My 2003 HR cummins will when approaching hills momintarily read full boost “30 psi” then it pulls back an long pulls drop to less somewhere 26 ish. At 1st thought a leak untill one time watching the EGT and at the time it was very close to 1200 degrees and over 30 psi m it dropped to 1100 ish instantly with psi now 26 psi. I had rembered that when i bought the new to me coach it already had a Banks Stinger kit installed on it. And reading the info on the stinger thats its main task in that it monitors the EGT temps when giving you full power and if the temps get to high it changes the fuel rate to reduce the temps which in turn lowers the psi. Its gotten so automatic for me i almost never pay attention to the gauge anymore.

Holy crap Richard did your old ins company explane as to why such a high amount?

I… believe you might be $$$ ahead looking into a gasser genny on wheels, rather than trying to reinvent a lubrication system… for ANY powertrain!!!

Morning everyone from The Springs of Barrago, So my bride finally decided to pull the plug an retire😃 an to celebrate the event she wanted to travel an get out of the rain an cold of our home town. We had a trip here planned an though the reason for coming here changed we kept the reservation thinking “ maybe”… So off we go, we got a late start 3:00 PM, she said We can drive till were tired then pull over for some shut eye then get up an go again… (im thinkin rookie retireie) none the less im just excited to have her on a adventure. So at 1:30 AM WE 💩out at a Walmart only to get up at 6:00AM to finish the journey, got here got set up, it was a beautifull sunny day in the low 70’s. I thought she might enjoy some TV, to make up for the “slow” moments in the excitment, they offered cable, for some reason they offered only two channels non of which she liked. So now i drag out my Playmaker thinking this will giver what she wants😎 ( so you know i have carried this for at least 2 years an roughly 8k miles and have never once used it) 2 hours with new folks i have never met finally got me the ability to have a selection of shows other than the Dish screen saver…. Yeah! So the next day it “RAINS” it rained so bad at one time it washed the signil away for about 10 minutes, non the less there we are watchin the boob tube for the reason it was intended, rain! So here we are the next day, no rain an folks are starting to mill about, im thinkin… like im prone to do an said, huh, time to break out the ice maker in preperation for the warmer days😃😃😃 I fill it up… i plug it in… an off it goes, chugin away spittin out cubes like a kid spittin out sunflower seeds, somehere between my shower an getting the bride to agree to a bloody i noticed two things the TV is no longer making noise an my ice maker has quit making that lovely noise of a machine work in progress☹️ So putting on my detective hat i start looking for the source of such a rude intrusion of my bliss, well 💩 i found the GFI in the bathroom tripped, humph! Wierd but so be it, i reset it and was rewarded with 10 seconds of aha i found the culpret, at which point it tripped again… WELL FIRETRUCK!!! So now the past couple of days has been a series of trial an errors trying to get it resolved. The latested being it will now stay “on” for 31 minutes with all that i can reach to unplug… big sigh🥱. So now the remaining of by brides big adventure has been changed, getting to understand NOT EVERY ADVENTURE is lined in gold an sometimes its just camping. For me… i have priorities, like ditch the toaster cause were short of operational plugs an so the coffee maker an the ice machine have full access to the only functional steady plug in the galley, yup coffee an cocktails thats my mantra😎 The. So my gentle reader just incase you chuckled an thought, HUH! Thats not toooo bad whats he jonesin about, well seems when the dark clouds decide to rain on your joyfull day it has many different directions in which to try to let you know just WHAT OR WHO Is in charge, like right after getting here an setting up, the spring on my Omega 2 topper over my main slide broke so now inorder to get home i have to cut off the material in order to not have it lufting in the wind🤦‍♂️ plus this is the 1st time since using this rig i forgot to bring my ladder… FIRETRUCK! The good part is that topper is original an lookin pretty haggered, so it took me a short time to change my frown to a smile an just enjoy the time an place an the people im with. Life is short above ground… Remember fight to stay happy an look for the good when an wherever you can find it👍😎

Yes it plugs in with a standard plug on one side, on the end you see is apen pin with slip on female connectors. The point of showing it is to resonate with the old phrase… these motorhomes are like snowflakes not two are made the same🤦‍♂️ when i found that plug i had NEVER seen anything like that before. Ya just got to stay open to what if an run with the punches

i found this on a 05 HR, Navigator… originally it started out as wipers that would not park, then quit alltogether. Used electronic cleaner then covered with electrical grease from then on worked perfect. I am ALWAYS amazed on the stuff i find

Hey everybody, FYI we just tried to have a lease Nevelle alternator rebuilt out here in California (bay area) and they’re having a lot of difficulty obtaining parts. (Took it to two rebuilders…)

Im running the fronts at 115psi, the rears are at 100. konis are from source, and my rig does not have any suspension controls, it strictly operates operates with air pressure, the only control i have with my old rig is to dump the air feeding the valves to the bags.

morning everyone so I need to get some clarity on my ride condition. like it says in the header I have a 36 ft coach and its ride is that of what my 30 ft gasser on a truck chassis used to be. I just completed a 5500 mile trip in which there were patches of bad road that was so bad it felt as though stuff was going to break. Now before we all get started in sharing there are a couple things you need to know, one is I replaced all the shocks that helped sooooo much with the body sway, next was due to the horrific feeling of loss of control in the parts of the Sierras I installed the Watts link up front, prior to my trip I had come to realize I was tail dragging as I realized my mud flap was getting shorter. So looking at the way it travels down the road my nose is always up higher than my rear, initially the front was 9 inches from plate to plate on the front air bag, where as the rears were less than that by almost 1/2 in. so looking at the rear air valve adjusters (tight fit for this ole fat boy) one side was maxed out and the other had a slight amount to adjust, so yes I adjusted it to match the other, now it brought the back up 1/4 in what appeared to make quite a bit difference for handling and ride, it lasted for about 900 miles, then it went back to the front riding up again. one thing to add is when its up like it does I seem to have "wander" when driving, then hitting what I felt was a small pothole at slow speeds I managed to rip the rear flap off. after watching the you tube about the roadmaster chassis I looked at the distance of there front tire in regard to the cutout of the fender, there's seem to be almost level with the top of the tire, which IS NOT THE CASE WITH MINE, coming off the road to park I can make a fist and still have room between the tire and the fender. now I understand there is a major difference with ride in longer, heavier coaches, I work on them and the difference is quite notable. at my shop I don't have a pit so repairs as it relates to deflate, adjust and refill is limited and im considering going up north to get the work done. my question is before I even consider that do these "shorter rigs" have a gentile ride. My owners manual does state the front bags should be 9" and the rears to be 11" that if correct it is a 2" difference from front to rear. On my adjustments I have the ability for minor and major adjustments, up to this point I have only used the minor adjustments. then there is the question 11" if using that spec that would load the front axel with more weight which in my estimation would reduce the "wander" and should smooth out the ride but 2" is gonna really load the bags out of there normal position. So my question is how do the shorties ride? is there just not enough weight for the 8 air bags so there ride is by design more harsh, should I adjust to the factory specs being 11" in in the rear, which in my estimation would have me make a major adjustment then recalibrate the minor. FYI, I have read past blogs concerning this issue however im just not convinced 9" frt and rear is relative to shorter rigs, and frankly I have not paid attention as to the position of the u-joints in relation to level or not. Thanks for any info😎

morning James, so I just watched a you tube on lifter issue with these engines and it looks as though they have really soft camshafts. something to contemplate is that IF the lifter bearings are destroyed of course you will need to replace the cam and all the lifters. however what the person on the video DID NOT DO was to drop the oil pan to clean out any or all the broken bearing pieces, when repairing Ford trucks 6.0 and 6.4 engines is that those pieces get sucked up thru the oil pump screen and into the pump causing hate and discontent, which equates to $$$. im not trying to scare as much as I am trying to make you aware. before you start this adventure I would consider calling to see what a rebuilt engine cost so you know the worst case. here in ca were seeing many of our customers opting to do major repairs rather than to by a new vehicle mostly due to the cost of a new vehicle is outrageous.

James, so when your driving it do you see any smoke coming from exhaust? Your saying the plugs are fouled which i suspect is due to a run rich condition, if your getting smoke… OR if the plugs are still fouling out (black an sooty) you might want start looking at fuel control. Curiosity has me wanting to see what the driver side spark plugs look like, if there sooted up too i would start looking at the common issue “fuel pressure” for example when a fuel pressure regulator 💩the bed it can go 1 of 2 ways, under pressure or over pressure! If its over then everytime the injectors open there will be more fuel per firing than the injector can control. Its strange cause IF the fuel system is running rich your computer should be sending a “rich” code P0174 or simmilar. So when you get that compression gauge, see if they have a fuel pressure gauge an take a look at what its doing. When checking pressures 1st do the key on and record the pressure, then start it an record that, now do a couple “snap throttles” record the highest an the lowest then compare that to the specs.

James, in my life of a mechanic ANYTHING other than normal lubricants IS snake oil. I have said that to explane this, as someone who has performed comprehensive vehicle repairs, stock quality lubticants are perfect the way they are, yet due to age an design of certain engine familys coupled with lack of “regular” maintenance there is a genuine need for some products (snake oil) however on a daily routine of service it is mearly a way to increase the bottom line of the shop. Like a tool in your toolbox some of that stuff can work for certain issues, like fuels for instance, gas and diesel how i believe they are designed for the modern engines. Which is double speak for 100% compatable for the types of emmision systems that were being forced to comply with as of the present new model year, yet for many older model systems they will start an run but there far from being able to “perform”. I could go on abt this but not right now. Another example Engine lubricants like i said “Quality” lubricants are perfect by themselfs, however its the schedule of regular service intervals that change the equation, face it not knowing the point in which your lubricants break down can only really be determined by analysis, an not by the odometer😳 So for some instances there is a time an place, so your engine for example, lets say your religious in changing your oil at 3k miles that engine will be less challanged than if you ran it 10k miles or more, then god forbid if you have a less than quality oil filter🤦‍♂️ So when you said you replaced those solinoids that control the lifters i dont believe you had a specific mis fire only a random one (P0300) where as now your seeing #6 (P0306) coincidence… perhaps. For me i would need more info as to how that system works, but anytime we open a system there is always a chance for “stuff” to get kicked loose only to go “somewhere” as a counter measure my thoughts go towards possably a small something went downstream. That if so how … is the question to remove it. Going “back inside” the engine get $$$, if there is no option we do what me must. However with my experience i found many times “plan B” has offered results. So that what i would be looking at is something with a cleaning ability, eiter a high detergent or something specific (snake oil) some of that stuff states its a two part oil change system, before you drop the oil you pour part “A” in then run the engine around 2K RPM for x amount of time, drain then use part “B” in with the new oil. (Again more bottom line for the shop) or i use in a five qt system 1 Qt of dextron III an run the engine at 1500 or 2k RPM for like 10 minutes. (due to your catalytic converter i would be hesitant to driving on the road) let it set for 30 min then repeate 2 or 3 times. If it cleans it or not running a crankcase overfull can cause issues so, be prepared if you gonna drive it on the road again at least be sure to siphon off 1 quart 1st. Sorry to drag this out like i did, wish i was there to help, let me know how it works out.

So James one more thing, if you think it may be a lifter, a old trick we did back in the day is to run a quart of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) in the engine oil. ATF is a detergent type oil and will clean a lot of things like oil passages an such… You do need to know that if your engine has high milage (like over 100k) it is non discriminatory on where it cleans, like all the crud behind the oil control rings on the pistons, which can make your engine start using oil. When you pulled the plugs out, did you look at the porcelain on the outside for hairline cracks? FYI many years of Ford pcm’s operating strategys were that after so many misfires which set a code on a specific cyl, it would turn off the injectors on that cyl during that run cycle so to keep from pushing fuel in the crankcase which would dilute the oil an also keep unburned fuel out of the cat converter. That clearing the code was the only way to turn it back on. Software stratigys can be a PITA when trying to diag driveabilty issues, i just spent MANY days on my buddies Can-Am off road UTV🤦‍♂️ Anyway it sounds like your on top of it, just thought i would share a few things, good luck an Merry Christmas

hey so James, it looks as though there are 8 coils, and your getting a misfire for 4 & 7 NOT 7 & 4 correct? So my question is can it set a 7 & 4 code? if so then go to #4 coil and monitor the pulse feeding that coil, in my "diagnostic tool box" I have a LED test light that is powered with 12vdc, which runs a "program" that tells you when touching the pointed tip to a circuit it will show a green light for - or red light for + and it does it very fast, so when looking for a issue like yours I use a back probe into the offending circuit and then connect it to the tip of the test light, and with the engine running you should see the led lights dither from red to green as the circuit open and close. now as its doing its on/off, on/off, on/off I gently move the wire harness back and forth (the actual name for this procedure is a wiggle test) during that time your looking to see if you can interrupt that on/off rhythm if it does then you have a broken or shorted wire. I have had bad crimps right at the connector where the wire is crimped, I also have found corrosion in multi wire plugs in that harness, sometimes just unplugging then reconnecting them will make it get a better temporary connection. (in my work I made a choice that ANYTIME I disconnect a plug that before I reconnect them I add "electrical grease" before reassembling. The next thing I would do is to disconnect the connectors going into the PCM to look for possible green corrosion or broken pin in the place where the wire terminals connect to the pin in the cavity. another tactic I employ is like say I think I have a injector that is begining to fail or a spark plug or a coil I will swap that part with a known good cylinder and see if the issue jumps to what was the good cylinder. That saves $$$ and you get instant feedback... sometimes

Hey James so on the topic of pocket doors since i started this hobbie of maintaining my motorhome i have looking (half heartedly) for the little plastic latch at the top of the pocket door that holds the door in the closed position. It engauges with two posts on the door itself, im sure its a design specifically for our application. Im inclined to carefully remove my one good one an find someone with a 3d printer to see if duplicating it might make it worth the effort.

So i just compleated a 5500 mile trip in october an never once did any areation give me trouble on the main engine ( thats fass doin its job) but like i said below 1/2 tank while driving the genny is out, so i have been trying to find a air seperator for its fuel system. This season im planning on replacing all the fuel line on the genny anyway so if there is such a device i thought do it all at one time. Reason for the fuel line replace is its hard as a rock.