Seward G

I own a 2013 Monaco Monarch. We are in Benton, AR at a Walmart parking lot. We drove through rain most of today. The overall problem began when the hired security person directed me to at 9:00 pm change to another part of the parking lot, after watching us set up and have dinner at our location. The guard was not open to discussion or consideration of what she was asking. I started to prepare to relocate and a more serious problem appeared. The serious problem began with retracting the full body slide, operated by two hydraulic cylinders. Part way through retracting, the slide reversed and moved out. I'm certain I was holding down the "in" button steadily when this happened. The slide hydraulics acted erratically for a few moments, then would not retract. Now the slide is out all the way. I have no way to bring it in. I then attempted to retract the four hydraulic jacks; instead the system extended all of the jacks, so now all the tires are off the ground. When I depress the "in" button on the slide the hydraulic pump runs. Also, when I depress the "retract" button on the jacks, the pump runs until I press the on/off button. There are no springs on the jacks; retraction is hydraulic. The hydraulic pump and valves are located under the step. I accessed the pump and fussed with a few connections and terminals, in the hope that I would find a failed electrical connection. I stumbled on hearing an erratic clicking sound that appears to come from one of the actuating valves? I unplugged each of the valve connections individually and the clicking occurred regardless of what I unplugged. With both the jacks and hydraulic slide malfunctioning at the same time, it seems to me that the problem must be in the electrical controls at the hydraulic pump and valves. Suggestions and recommendations are welcome. Other challenges are that tomorrow we are forecast for 1.5 inches of rain, and my wife broke her fibula on Sunday, so she is hobbling on crutches. We are headed to West Virginia from Texas. Thanks for the help! Oh, a new security guard came on at 11:00 pm. He told me I need to move, in a friendly way. I explained my problem, and he said you're good. I'll b here all night on patrol. No problem. I also went into Walmart and passed a message to the manager about my predicament.

I purchased three Redodo 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 Battery Lithium Batteries with 100A BMS. They were $619 each with free shipping from Amazon. They arrived in perfect condition in about three days. The voltages when delivered were with within a couple hundredths, so I did not balance them before installation. I haven't had any problems with the batteries themselves. I tried to use them without upgrading the Magnum controller; I couldn't get a full charge and discharged the batteries to BMS cutoff several times. So I replaced the Magnum controller that has settings specific to LiFeP batteries. There remains a problem that I have to solve, cable voltage loss. The Magnum charging can be as high as 100 amps. The voltage drop from the charger to the battery terminals at this current can be as much as 0.7 volts. I have the Magnum system set to bulk charge to about 14.8 volts, but this only brings the batteries to 14.1 volts. Recommended is 14.4 to 14.6 volts at full charge. So getting the batteries fully charged takes some manual overrides of the Magnum system. The positive cable path totals about four feet of 2/0 wire, a disconnect switch, and a 300 amp fuse. The negative cable path is also about four feet from charger to battery terminal. The losses are about 0.3 volts on the negative path and 0.4 volts on the positive path. I think some but not most of the loss is from my cable crimps; I used a hammer crimper. The temperature of the 2/0 copper wire can reach 140 F. One improvement I would suggest to the charger manufacturers is to have separate voltage sensing wires from the battery directly to the charger controller circuit, to better measure actual battery voltage. When using the Magnum as an inverter the current is sometimes 240 amps, the voltage sag is much worse; sometimes 1.4 volts. I have thought about changing all the the wire to 4/0, and re-doing some of my crimps. This problem does not affect our daily living (we are full time and boondock often) so we will probably live with it as it is. But if someone has a suggestion, I'm interested!

I did a conversion from lead acid to lithium iron phosphate a year ago. I'm glad I did. Because of the higher voltage for charging and higher charging amps several other changes were necessary. The magnum control panel was replaced, so that it's charging system would work. To protect the chassis alternator and boost it's voltage a DC/DC converter was added. The RV already had 1,100 watts of solar panels and changing that system's charge profile was needed. The new magnum controller and DC/DC converter together cost about $350. I shortened the 2/0 battery cables; parts and a crimper were needed. I added a heater and controller to the battery bay. I am posting this so that others will have an idea of the equipment, material cost and labor that are in addition to buying and exchanging the batteries. Keep us posted on your progress!

I had the same problem. Also had the spade connection to the relay overheat and cause the relay to fail. I replaced the relay. I could access it by removing a couple drawers, then accessing but only with one hand. I just learned about WAGO connecters and may replace my wire nuts installed singlehandedly with WAGO.

We saw the 2017 eclipse in Oregon. I chose a place with the best probability I could find of no cloud cover. In the days just before the big day it had been cloudy and there had been smoke from forest fires, but it all cleared out for a glorious clear sky. I think it is worth it to be in totality. The time in totality goes by quickly, so the longer the better. The city of Culver, Oregon set up an open field for camping, so there were several hundred people experiencing it together, including a couple astronomers that shared their viewing apparatus. We arrived a couple days before the big event and it was a family oriented party atmosphere. The upcoming event date is April 8, 2024. I'm thinking of Kerrville, TX with a 40% probability of clear skies in April. The clear skies probability gets a little better further southwest, so near Eagle Pass, Texas would be the best I have found for the length of totality and probability of clear skies.

I shortened mine.

Update: We had no issues with the windshield on our adventure to/from Alaska. The cracks have not changed in four months. Thanks to all for the suggestions and recommendations.

2013 Monaco Monarch. Our windshield was chipped by road debris in the lower center. Now we have a crack running vertically about five inches long. Yesterday a glass technician attempted to drill and then fill the crack at its ends to keep in from running further, but thinks his fix is temporary at best. We on the Oregon coast, on our way to motor through Canada to Alaska for the summer. I'm expecting this crack to run all the way to the top of the windshield, and probably on this road trip we will get more dings. The technician said the inner glass layer is intact and that would prevent us from getting hit by glass in a catastrophic failure. Our Progressive insurance policy covers the windshield. If the crack crosses the windshield and we get hit by more debris will it be unsafe? What is the worst case scenario? How badly could the driver's vision be obstructed? What would you do?

Chip, I have a 2013 Monarch with full wall slide. I have had the slide unexpectedly tip and damage trim twice. Both times it was when the motorhome was on a side slope. I think that when the RV is far from level when slides are being extended or retracted, the slide center of gravity gets outside the slide supports. Then the slide tips beyond the designed range of motion and the top edge of the slide trim scrapes along trim of the main coach body. From damage on trim that existed when we bought the motorhome I think this occurred to prior owners, too. Since this happened we always put the slides out after leveling and it hasn't reoccurred. This sequence is the opposite of what most Monaco owners and the operating manual recommend.

I have had leaks around windows and was sure it was something about their frames. Turns out there were leaks in the roof seams above the windows.

Thanks for your response and interest, waterskier_1 Attached are three photos. The panel fuse diagram is turned 90 degrees clockwise from the actual panel. There are so many wires that it is hard to tell much in the photos, and is still hard to tell staring at it in person.

Good morning, Chargerman The plan is to replace the four coach batteries with lithium iron phosphate. The existing coach batteries are lead acid and are at the end of their useful life. The chassis battery will not be changed.

I am planning the replacement the lead acid coach batteries with lithium iron phosphate on our 2013 Monaco Monarch. A DC/DC charger will be needed to prevent overloading and overheating the chassis alternator. The plan is to install a 60 amp Renogy charger. How do I isolate the chassis and coach 12 volt systems? Attached is a photo of the circuit board where the two systems are tied together. Please help me identify the function of the black terminal block and comment on how to safely split the two systems. I have tested the voltage across the two terminals on the block; they are virtually the same. I tested with the engine running, engine off, and salesman switch on/off and all showed no voltage difference. The Renogy charger has a lead to go to the truck ignition circuit; I am unsure how this is used. Is it that the charger only is active when the truck is running? Am I looking in the wrong place to separate the systems? Thanks!

There is an extensive collection of wiring diagrams in the "downloads" section of "Bill D's Monacoers" for the 2007 Diplomat. Another person posted that other years and brands are much the same. I looked at the diagrams and saw references to the Cheetah brand. The items you mentioned not working are on different circuits, as I read the diagrams. Maybe something there would be of help.

This suggestion will not do everything your wanting, but is simple. On my rig, if I turn off the circuit breaker to the inverter then the front TV, rear TV, microwave and refrigerator all switch to inverted battery power. I have added an outlet strip to the microwave circuit, and so if the microwave/convection oven is not in use a toaster or coffeemaker are also powered from the house batteries. If this works on your rig, then this suggestion covers your most important combination of appliances. I am interested to read about your large (1140AH) LFP battery bank.

I had a similar problem. My leveling legs wouldn't lift either, on our Monarch 2013 (gas engine) model. A delay module had failed. I ordered the part from Lippert - $20 for the part and $70 for overnight shipping as I recall. The delay module is in the attached photo. I think it failed from the wiring loom put part way around the part, then tightly taped together. You can see in the photo the dents in the part from the loom corrugations. I think the purpose of the delay is to allow the hydraulic pump motor to start and build pressure before any solenoids are opened, but on this I may be wrong. The delay is about 0.9 second. I hope this is helpful.

I'm impressed by what you accomplished!

Please consider that lead acid batteries can generate explosive hydrogen gas. In my coach, the batteries and the inverter are in separate compartments. The battery compartment is ventilated to outside air. Probably for this reason. Jerry Gilbert