Notn2bars

Ray and he sage advice will be sorely missed. Sylvia and I had the wonderful opportunity to meet Ray and Marilyn on one of our journeys. What an awesome, down to earth couple. It was such a blessing to meet them. May our Heavenly Father bless Marilyn with healing and peace in her time of sorrow! RIP

Dick, The blower motor is not mounted on the outside of the firewall. It is mounted on the inside of the firewall. I thought the same thing, that it could be accessed from the generator side. It is not accessible from the generator side. The box that is accessible from the generator side houses the heater core and the a/c evaporator core not the blower motor.

Gregory, I had to a repair on my a/c and heater core on my 2000 Dynasty. Send a pic of your dash and I could probably tell you how to get to the fan motor. God bless, Ed & Sylvia

Glad to be able to report some positive. Ray, I adjusted the slack in the gearbox, but it really didn't do much because everything else was out of sink. With the help of my son-in-law we were able to remove the rear tie rod in from the knuckle arm. Since we could not locate a puller large enough to fit the front of the drag link we tackled the rear. Had to use an impact wrench, a 3 lb sledge hammer, a wrench and a torch. We made a complete rotation on the drag link and this more or less lined up the front tires with the rear tires. Unfortunately we tore the boot and it needs to be replace. After we did the above, the steering was so much better. Wasn't having to fight the slack in the steering constantly, made driving the MH a much more enjoyable experience. Will tackle the rest of the repairs when the weather cools down. Still need to align the steering wheel and replace the boot. Then I'll see if I can find a different shop to laser align the front. Tim, thanks for the name and number will store it with other important/helpful numbers. Jim, David, Richard, Frank, Tom and Vito. God's blessings on all who took the time to look in and offer suggestions and advice. Ed & Sylvia

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to reply. This is some additional info that may help in answering my question. There was an inordinate amount of play in the steering. Took the MH to a semi truck alignment place hoping they could help with the wandering issue and play in the steering. Didn't help. Installed rear cross bars and went on a trip to Niagara Falls. Stopped on the way back and picked up a steering box at the Weller factory. Had the box installed at a local alignment shop. Took the MH to South Padre for a short trip. Noticed no improvement in the wandering and steering box play. Haven't used the MH for about a year. So getting ready to head to South Padre again, and while getting the MH ready, discovered the issue I have described. So this would explain why the steering has been so sloppy. Evidently the folks who have worked on the coach didn't know what they were doing. When I turn the wheels straight ahead, the steering wheel is still off center and the marks for the sector shaft don't line up. God Bless, Ed and Sylvia

We have an alignment issue with our 2000 Dynasty. Our steering box is a TRW from Weller. We had the front end aligned a couple of years ago and replaced the steering box. Today I was doing some work on the MH and decided to check the box. The timing mark on the sector shaft line up perfectly with the mark on the outside of the box. See first pic. As I was crawling out from under the MH, noticed the wheels are not pointing straight forward. Place a long piece of 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron against the lug nut covers and sure enough, the wheels are canted to the right. See 2nd and 3rd pic. In addition, the steering wheel is way off center. See 4th pic. The last photo shows the adjustable drag link. I would like to get the adjustment close before taking it to a semi-truck alignment shop. Does anyone have any advice as to how to remove the drag link from he pitman arm. TRW says not to use a hammer. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. God Bless Ed & Sylvia

Ditto Vito.a, Weller Truck Parts does a great job on their steering boxes. They are a great source for anything semi-truck related. Good luck on your project. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

When ours quit working. It was frozen, took it apart and lubed with Permatex Antiseize. Permatex has a much higher operating temperature than the pac brake lube. Put 12 volts to the unit and it worked as it should. However it would not activate from the foot switch on the floor by the driver's seat. Found a broken connection beneath the wood structure to which the foot switch was attached. Connected the wires back together and it worked. Pray your fix is easier than ours and doesn't drive you to pull out any hair. It took much patience and effort to figure ours out. God bless, Ed & Sylvia

The heater core/ a/c project is almost completed. Repaired 2 of the defrost ducts. The third was toast, so we are waiting on defrost duct. Found that vacuum hose was cheaper so I'm going to used that instead. Pic 1 shows the POR 15 coating on the face of the firewall that was rusted. Pic 2 is a pic showing the bubble in place from the top before things were reattached. Pic 3 is the bubble from the bottom prior to connecting everything up. Pic 4 is all the cabling back in place, tied together and wiring all done. Pic 5 and 6 show how 2 inch pvc pipe was used to repair the torn defrost duct. Simple fix, coated the inside of the duct with silicone and slid the duct over the pvc. Pic 7 shows how the ball valves are set up.Only thing left to do is reassemble the dash. Will post the results when finished. The duct won't be here till Sat. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Pray all is well with y'all. We have finally made some progress with the installation of the heater core. Pic 1 shows the rusty plate that attaches to the housing for the A/C and heat. Used a wire brush to knock off the heavy rust and coated it with POR 15. POR 15 actually binds with the surface rust to form a coating hard as rock. Pic 2 is the plate after the rusted areas have been coated. Pic 3 shows the rusted area of the flapper coated with POR 15. Pic 4 is a pic of the housing after I installed the heater core and used spray foam to hold it in place. In addition the flapper is in place with new foam. Pic 5 and 6 are pics after trimming the foam. Pic 7 is me removing one of the plugs to the heater core. Surprisingly enough, the core was still under pressure from the factory. Pic 8 is a view of the evaporator hanging between the firewall and the front cap. Pic 9 my set up for working in the heat. Pic 10 is the both the heater core and evaporator back in the housing. Will post the results when I finish. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Tommy, thank you for the kind note. We received our core just a few minutes ago, it looks like a quality product. The cores are made by Texas Coil in FT. Worth, Texas. They pressure test every core they make. Could only find 2 vendors online, and the other vendor wanted $245.00 plus shipping for the same core. Acme sent mine for $225.00 total. Very pleased with the core and the service. God Bless and good luck on your project. Ed & Sylvia

The heater core came in this evening. Looks like it will work without any issues. Here are a couple of pics. The holes in the cover are larger than the tubing, so the lines although not exactly the same distance apart should fit ok. Only about 1/2 inch difference between centers. Me thinks I know what tomorrow's Honey Do is going to be. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Thanks to all of those who are following, have looked in or offered suggestions. Well Tim, good news is, I found a good source. Just received a delivery update from UPS. The core won't be here till next Tuesday. Guess I need a break anyway. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

After countless hours searching for a reasonable source for the heater core, I found one, Acme Air Parts. Talked to Richard and he had the core I needed was in stock. The other vendors who had the core #042-00010 in stock around $350 to $365 delivered. Acme Air Parts $225 delivered. Acme part #4560030. He lists 7 different heater cores to fit a variety of MH's. His prices are great, especially when compared to other vendors. Acme pretty much has every part you would need for your MH dash a/c and dash heat. Check them out, I think you will be pleased. Core will be here Sat. evening, will post the install after it's in. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Well, the saga continues. Yes it is possible to remove the heater core without disconnecting lines from the evaporator core. It's not a walk in the park, but it's not rocket science either. Not a lot of room to work, the space from the firewall to the center of the cap measures 11 inches. Probably could have been done with as little as 9 inches. The 1st pic is looking down through cut made in the dash. The hole to the fan is visible. The 2nd pic is a view looking up toward the cut in the dash. The 3rd pic is a pic of all the zip ties and cable attachments that I had to cut. Also had to detach all the hose ties that were screwed to the firewall. 4th pic is a shot of the wires and hoses after all the ties were remove. By doing this I was able to grab the core assembly and flip it over from left to right and pull it out of the generator compartment. Not a lot of room, but was possible. 5th pic show the assembly out and sitting on top of the generator. There were 4 nuts that held the assembly together. Removed the 4 nuts and pried the assembly apart with a putty knife. See 6th pic. After prying the assembly apart, you have access to the heater core and the evaporator core. See 7th pic. Nothing holds either core in place except the shape of the housing. See 8th pic. The 9th pic shows the heater core out. I rigged up a couple of hoses, one with an air fitting and one with a plug. See 10th pic. Put some air to it and it basically blew apart. Had many leaks. I'm glad this happened, as all the foam used in the installation and for vent filters has turned to dust. See Pic 11. The original foam over the vents is completely gone. Therefore will pull the fan and clean it out. Took about 3 hours this morning to get this far. Now need to find a replacement heater core. Thank the Lord we didn't have to disconnect the a/c lines. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Ray and Tim, thanks for looking in. You are correct, that is the headlight. Yes, will have to move outside to access the heater core. Hopefully I'll be able to remove the heater core without disconnecting the a/c lines. I completely rebuilt the dash when it was apart 2 years ago. Even with the cut out removed the dash is more structurally sound than before. That is 3/4 inch exterior plywood with a 4 inch tall 1 inch wide apron epoxied on top and reinforced with fiberglass on the bottom. Non of which was there before. The original was made out of particleboard that was disintegrating from being wet. Tim, when you get a chance will you send me an explanation of your solar setup, what it will run and etc.? God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Hi Ray, thanks for looking in. See 1st pic. Neither of the cores are accessible from the inside of the firewall. The firewall is solid. When the box is pulled back from the firewall, it's pretty obvious no access. In order to access the screws, I decided to cut through the plywood on top of the firewall. See 2nd pic. Used an oscillating tool to do the cut. Probably one of the most versatile tools we own. The 3rd pic shows easy access to the core assembly on the outside of the firewall. The 4th pic is showing how easy the removal of the screws has become. While undoing the electrical connections on the outside, the wires on the expansion valve looked as if they were connected. See pic 5. Lo and behold the top spade connection was not connected. See pic 6. Dumb luck is better than no luck. Hooked the wires up and tested the a/c. Bingo, dash a/c working great again. We would like to repair the heater core. However, don't want to undo the a/c lines to pull out the heater core. Going to attempt removal of the heater core without messing up the a/c. The Good Lord blessed us on the a/c. Will keep posting as project continues. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Hi Ray, Thanks for looking in. Took another look at what has to be done and figured out what you indicated. The heater coil and the evaporator can only be accessed from the generator bay. "Young fella like myself"!!!!!!!!!!! LMAO, ROTF. Thanks for the link. Since I have the dash apart, I'm thinking it would be faster and easier if I cut an opening in the underdash just above the heater/evaporator box for access. Will be easier to replace also. God Bless, Ed& Sylvia

Al, The furnace had to be dropped all the way to the floor. With the doors of the fridge I only had 1/8 th of an inch on each side. Figured it would be safer to remove the window. Only took about 10 minutes to remove the window . God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

We just finished the residential fridge project. Mark that off the list and go to the next item. Our heater core started leaking profusely the last time we were using the dash heat. In addition our dash A/C quit working the last time we used it. We will tackle both of these at the same time. Hopefully that will work to our favor. When I rebuilt the dash and had the windshield replaced about 2 years ago, the dash was made so it is relatively easy to take apart. About a 15 minute job. Here are a couple of pics. Notice, there are a couple of o-rings sitting on top of the box, which I assume holds the evaporator. No telling how long they have been there. A couple of questions for the folks on this forum who have much more experience with MH's and are smarter than I. Am I correct in assuming the evaporator is in this box? Is it possible to remove the evaporator and heater core from the inside of the MH or must the heater core be removed from the opposite side of the firewall? Does anyone have a source for parts for this unit? We are looking forward to any and all suggestions. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Al and Jim, thanks for the suggestions to keep the doors and drawer closed. Al, I purchased the same fridge as you, could not get it through the door. So, put we put it in through the driver side window. Included the pic of how I covered the hole in the side of the MH. Jim, we also have a breaker for the fridge. Not going to run a separate switch. On to another project, will post that in A/C, Heating and Cooling. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Jim and Ray, thanks for checking in and giving suggestions. I think to hold the fridge in we will do something similar to what Jim did at the top. Since the cabinet platform is solid and screwed in place I'll just screw the sheet metal in the back of the fridge to the platform. I used Ray's suggestion and propped a 2x4 against the window to hold it it place. The fridge project is pretty much done. Think I will add a switch in the line to be able to turn the fridge completely off when not in use. Still have to insulate the access door at the back of the fridge. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Pray all is well with the group. Last night used a putty knife to break the seal around the window, took all but 4 screws out. This morning I went over to the MH to remove the window. Removed the remaining screws thinking there was enough sticky to keep the window in place, wrong!!! The window removed itself and fell to the ground. Lesson learned, "two people are better than one." The Lord blessed me and the window survived the fall. Loaded the fridge up in my neighbors truck and backed up to the opening. Placed cardboard and a moving blanket over the bottom of the opening. Four of us lifted the fridge through the opening and set it upright. Total time was about 5 minutes. Took much longer to round up four able bodied old men than to do the job. Rocked the fridge from one side to the other to place 4 X 6 blocks under each side. This was to enable the jack to slide under the fridge. Jacked it up and went right in. Pulled it back out and did some minor work on the cabinet so it would sit level. Wondering if I should place trim around the fridge or leave the openings. The louvered vent behind the fridge will be covered and insulated. Hopefully will have everything buttoned up tomorrow. Thanks to all who have contributed suggestions and followed the post. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia P.S. Went back and read Tom Cherry's post, so I'll not trim it out.

The gentleman who comes into our park to do odd jobs did a wash and wax on the old MH today. Looks so much better when clean. Not sure what happens with age, but I had a huge brain fart today. All the electrical is hooked up and working, so I wanted to test the furnace before placing the fridge on the platform. DUH!!!!!!!!!!!! The furnace is not going to turn on when it's 98 outside. Pulled the insulation out of the side walls as suggested by Tom Cherry and Jim J. Put the valve for the ice maker in place. Looks like the fridge goes in tomorrow morning. She will be going in the driver's side window. In addition, the piston or line for the rear ram of the slide is leaking and the front a/c is not cooling. Does it ever stop? God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Jim and Bruce, thanks for keeping up. Jim, did what you suggested and put these three fittings together for the ice maker line. See pic. Spent most of the day going to Mexico to pick up the seats and at Home Depot and Lowes figuring out the fittings needed. Was able to put together what we needed at Lowe's. It's 98 degrees in the shade and almost 60 % humidity, so not going to doing anything until later when the sun goes West. Guess I shouldn't complain, the MH is on a storage lot with complete hookups. Only about 2 blocks away. Not too bad for $40 a month. 5/16th barb fits 3/8ths pex perfectly, 1/4 fip collar and fridge valve 1/4 mip to 1/4 fridge line. Pic of seats still wrapped in shrink wrap to keep them clean. Oscar did a great job. He used premium, thick leather for the job. Will post more as we continue! God bless, Ed & Sylvia