Notn2bars

Ray and he sage advice will be sorely missed. Sylvia and I had the wonderful opportunity to meet Ray and Marilyn on one of our journeys. What an awesome, down to earth couple. It was such a blessing to meet them. May our Heavenly Father bless Marilyn with healing and peace in her time of sorrow! RIP

Dick, The blower motor is not mounted on the outside of the firewall. It is mounted on the inside of the firewall. I thought the same thing, that it could be accessed from the generator side. It is not accessible from the generator side. The box that is accessible from the generator side houses the heater core and the a/c evaporator core not the blower motor.

Gregory, I had to a repair on my a/c and heater core on my 2000 Dynasty. Send a pic of your dash and I could probably tell you how to get to the fan motor. God bless, Ed & Sylvia

Glad to be able to report some positive. Ray, I adjusted the slack in the gearbox, but it really didn't do much because everything else was out of sink. With the help of my son-in-law we were able to remove the rear tie rod in from the knuckle arm. Since we could not locate a puller large enough to fit the front of the drag link we tackled the rear. Had to use an impact wrench, a 3 lb sledge hammer, a wrench and a torch. We made a complete rotation on the drag link and this more or less lined up the front tires with the rear tires. Unfortunately we tore the boot and it needs to be replace. After we did the above, the steering was so much better. Wasn't having to fight the slack in the steering constantly, made driving the MH a much more enjoyable experience. Will tackle the rest of the repairs when the weather cools down. Still need to align the steering wheel and replace the boot. Then I'll see if I can find a different shop to laser align the front. Tim, thanks for the name and number will store it with other important/helpful numbers. Jim, David, Richard, Frank, Tom and Vito. God's blessings on all who took the time to look in and offer suggestions and advice. Ed & Sylvia

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to reply. This is some additional info that may help in answering my question. There was an inordinate amount of play in the steering. Took the MH to a semi truck alignment place hoping they could help with the wandering issue and play in the steering. Didn't help. Installed rear cross bars and went on a trip to Niagara Falls. Stopped on the way back and picked up a steering box at the Weller factory. Had the box installed at a local alignment shop. Took the MH to South Padre for a short trip. Noticed no improvement in the wandering and steering box play. Haven't used the MH for about a year. So getting ready to head to South Padre again, and while getting the MH ready, discovered the issue I have described. So this would explain why the steering has been so sloppy. Evidently the folks who have worked on the coach didn't know what they were doing. When I turn the wheels straight ahead, the steering wheel is still off center and the marks for the sector shaft don't line up. God Bless, Ed and Sylvia

We have an alignment issue with our 2000 Dynasty. Our steering box is a TRW from Weller. We had the front end aligned a couple of years ago and replaced the steering box. Today I was doing some work on the MH and decided to check the box. The timing mark on the sector shaft line up perfectly with the mark on the outside of the box. See first pic. As I was crawling out from under the MH, noticed the wheels are not pointing straight forward. Place a long piece of 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron against the lug nut covers and sure enough, the wheels are canted to the right. See 2nd and 3rd pic. In addition, the steering wheel is way off center. See 4th pic. The last photo shows the adjustable drag link. I would like to get the adjustment close before taking it to a semi-truck alignment shop. Does anyone have any advice as to how to remove the drag link from he pitman arm. TRW says not to use a hammer. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. God Bless Ed & Sylvia

Ditto Vito.a, Weller Truck Parts does a great job on their steering boxes. They are a great source for anything semi-truck related. Good luck on your project. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

When ours quit working. It was frozen, took it apart and lubed with Permatex Antiseize. Permatex has a much higher operating temperature than the pac brake lube. Put 12 volts to the unit and it worked as it should. However it would not activate from the foot switch on the floor by the driver's seat. Found a broken connection beneath the wood structure to which the foot switch was attached. Connected the wires back together and it worked. Pray your fix is easier than ours and doesn't drive you to pull out any hair. It took much patience and effort to figure ours out. God bless, Ed & Sylvia

The heater core/ a/c project is almost completed. Repaired 2 of the defrost ducts. The third was toast, so we are waiting on defrost duct. Found that vacuum hose was cheaper so I'm going to used that instead. Pic 1 shows the POR 15 coating on the face of the firewall that was rusted. Pic 2 is a pic showing the bubble in place from the top before things were reattached. Pic 3 is the bubble from the bottom prior to connecting everything up. Pic 4 is all the cabling back in place, tied together and wiring all done. Pic 5 and 6 show how 2 inch pvc pipe was used to repair the torn defrost duct. Simple fix, coated the inside of the duct with silicone and slid the duct over the pvc. Pic 7 shows how the ball valves are set up.Only thing left to do is reassemble the dash. Will post the results when finished. The duct won't be here till Sat. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Pray all is well with y'all. We have finally made some progress with the installation of the heater core. Pic 1 shows the rusty plate that attaches to the housing for the A/C and heat. Used a wire brush to knock off the heavy rust and coated it with POR 15. POR 15 actually binds with the surface rust to form a coating hard as rock. Pic 2 is the plate after the rusted areas have been coated. Pic 3 shows the rusted area of the flapper coated with POR 15. Pic 4 is a pic of the housing after I installed the heater core and used spray foam to hold it in place. In addition the flapper is in place with new foam. Pic 5 and 6 are pics after trimming the foam. Pic 7 is me removing one of the plugs to the heater core. Surprisingly enough, the core was still under pressure from the factory. Pic 8 is a view of the evaporator hanging between the firewall and the front cap. Pic 9 my set up for working in the heat. Pic 10 is the both the heater core and evaporator back in the housing. Will post the results when I finish. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Tommy, thank you for the kind note. We received our core just a few minutes ago, it looks like a quality product. The cores are made by Texas Coil in FT. Worth, Texas. They pressure test every core they make. Could only find 2 vendors online, and the other vendor wanted $245.00 plus shipping for the same core. Acme sent mine for $225.00 total. Very pleased with the core and the service. God Bless and good luck on your project. Ed & Sylvia

The heater core came in this evening. Looks like it will work without any issues. Here are a couple of pics. The holes in the cover are larger than the tubing, so the lines although not exactly the same distance apart should fit ok. Only about 1/2 inch difference between centers. Me thinks I know what tomorrow's Honey Do is going to be. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Thanks to all of those who are following, have looked in or offered suggestions. Well Tim, good news is, I found a good source. Just received a delivery update from UPS. The core won't be here till next Tuesday. Guess I need a break anyway. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

After countless hours searching for a reasonable source for the heater core, I found one, Acme Air Parts. Talked to Richard and he had the core I needed was in stock. The other vendors who had the core #042-00010 in stock around $350 to $365 delivered. Acme Air Parts $225 delivered. Acme part #4560030. He lists 7 different heater cores to fit a variety of MH's. His prices are great, especially when compared to other vendors. Acme pretty much has every part you would need for your MH dash a/c and dash heat. Check them out, I think you will be pleased. Core will be here Sat. evening, will post the install after it's in. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

Well, the saga continues. Yes it is possible to remove the heater core without disconnecting lines from the evaporator core. It's not a walk in the park, but it's not rocket science either. Not a lot of room to work, the space from the firewall to the center of the cap measures 11 inches. Probably could have been done with as little as 9 inches. The 1st pic is looking down through cut made in the dash. The hole to the fan is visible. The 2nd pic is a view looking up toward the cut in the dash. The 3rd pic is a pic of all the zip ties and cable attachments that I had to cut. Also had to detach all the hose ties that were screwed to the firewall. 4th pic is a shot of the wires and hoses after all the ties were remove. By doing this I was able to grab the core assembly and flip it over from left to right and pull it out of the generator compartment. Not a lot of room, but was possible. 5th pic show the assembly out and sitting on top of the generator. There were 4 nuts that held the assembly together. Removed the 4 nuts and pried the assembly apart with a putty knife. See 6th pic. After prying the assembly apart, you have access to the heater core and the evaporator core. See 7th pic. Nothing holds either core in place except the shape of the housing. See 8th pic. The 9th pic shows the heater core out. I rigged up a couple of hoses, one with an air fitting and one with a plug. See 10th pic. Put some air to it and it basically blew apart. Had many leaks. I'm glad this happened, as all the foam used in the installation and for vent filters has turned to dust. See Pic 11. The original foam over the vents is completely gone. Therefore will pull the fan and clean it out. Took about 3 hours this morning to get this far. Now need to find a replacement heater core. Thank the Lord we didn't have to disconnect the a/c lines. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia