NGADawgs

Thank you Ray and others, That's the kind of great info that this site brings. I knew there was a better solution than the flexible hoses. I was able to pick up Duallyvalve parts to fit my coach (one wheel is different) for under $100 on Ebay. Also thanks to the site moderators for all of the time and effort they put in this site.

I just got the axles repacked with new seals in place. In the process, they removed the wheels. On my drive home from the shop, my Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) gave me an alert. After pulling into a parking lot, I realized that one of the hoses was leaking. It appears to have been stressed during mounting. Fleetpride in Cumming, GA told me to bring it back and they would repair for free, Great service. However, I believe that all 4 hoses on the rear wheels are original and 17 years old. Should I be proactive and replace the other 3 hoses? Has anyone else had hose failures? Thanks much!

So, I removed the old crank-up TV antenna from the roof. It left two holes approximately 3" and 1 1/2" holes in the roof. To cover the holes, I used Dicor to seal a cutting board (HDPE) that I got at the Dollar Store over the two holes. Next, I plan to put Eternabond around the edges of the cutting board. I figure this will last for a good while. From there... it would be pretty easy to install a skylight to the top of the HDPE. The skylight I found on Amazon looks like pretty good quality. Has anyone tried something like this? I think it would be really nice, in the mornings while the blinds are still closed, to have natural daylight wake up the room. Here's a link to the one I have found: https://www.amazon.com/Solar-LIGHTblaster-Shingled-Skylight-Applications/dp/B079819SKD/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2Q9BT5VDT5UPA&keywords=lightblaster+skylight&qid=1698609497&sprefix=lightblaster+skylig%2Caps%2C411&sr=8-2

Here is a child lock for a fridge that works great while moving. $9 I used my label maker to put the "code" on the device so I don't forget it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H7YCRN3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also recently used MTR Fleetpride in Cumming, GA to checkout the coach before making a long trip. I experienced great service and great communication. I highly recommend them.

In doing a roof renovation, I noticed this tear in the black fibered vinyl that connects my awning to the coach. I am contemplating patching this with black Gorilla tape. Does anyone know if this is a good idea? If this seam continues it would be ugly seeing the torsion spring in the awning unwind. Does anyone know if this is a good idea or have a better solution? Thanks much, Gary

It turned out that there was enough cable to reach the new transfer switch. I did have to drill two new holes and after doing that and disconnecting the old cables, I ran through the new holes and luckily Monaco left me about 10 in of slack. The wiring was the same... a black a neutral and red power wires. Very simple to wire.

First, I am at the Monacoers Gathering in Tampa this week. It has been 4 full days of Monaco maintenance, renovation, safety, etc. Very beneficial! Plan to be here next year if you have never attended. In preparation for this trip, I pulled out the Iota transfer switch which is known to be a fire hazard. I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics metal box: Progressive Dynamics PD52V 5200 Series Automatic Transfer Switch - 240 VAC, 50 Amp For those that don't know, this switch automatically transfers from shore power to generator power when detected. In the process, I turned my shore power reel 180 degrees which allowed the cable to come off of the top, making it easier to wind. I also moved the cable guide port directly under the cable so that I can guide the cable onto the reel easily. When reeling in the cable, I hold the cable with a paper towel in my hand so that any debris on the cable doesn't make it into the bay. I filled the previous cable porthole with a new screw-in cover. Off of the shore cable reel, I put in a 50 amp receptacle. This allows me to put my Hughes Autoformer in the circuit when needed. We ran into a situation that almost ended our vacation last summer. We were at an old RV park in Florida that was delivering only 105 volts AC each afternoon when all RVs were running wide open. In the future, when I run into low voltage, this unit will boost the voltage and protect my AC units and other motors from overheating. Hughes Autoformers RV220-50-SP After that, I have the circuit going through my RV Surge protector. I added the bypass switch for this device in case I ever need to disable it. Progressive Industries RV Surge Protector 50 Amp Lastly, the circuit goes into the new transfer switch. I had to drill new holes for the power cables coming from the coach and the generator due to the terminal placement in the new transfer switch. I covered the old holes with a piece of ABS plastic that I had in my shop. The first picture shows the "normal" setup without the Hughes Autormer in-line. The second shows the configuration with the Autoformer plugged into the shore reel receptacle, and then the surge protector plugged into the Autoformer. After I took pictures of this, I made sure all was working accordingly when powering up the generator. I then used RTV silicone to seal around the cables leaving the electrical bay. Based on the good advice from this website, I used Loctite Green on the terminal lugs and tightened them securely without overtightening.

I am guessing that is why you recently beefed up your audio system...

Great info...I am sure that is the problem. I noticed a small leak before our trip but it was minor and the fluid was above the weep hole when I checked it. The flow rate must have increased with a multiple stop trip. Upon inspection, it appears that there is a hairline crack where the tank meets the valves. I did read somewhere that someone had that rewelded on their coach. If anyone has a link to what is involved, please forward it. I have no experience on repairing hydraulic systems. Thanks for the input.

Spent a an hour driving last week with the jacks down alarm coming on randomly for a few seconds every 10 minutes or so. I thought it was the TPMS alarm but was baffled that all tire pressures were normal. After we stopped and restarted, I noticed it came on as I put the coach in gear. That's when I noticed all the lights on the leveling pad flashing. The jacks were not down and it took me pulling the fuse on the leveling pad to hush it up. I assume it is a sensor in the system that is malfunctioning. Has anyone had this issue? I can't find any posts on this site. Thanks in advance!

Carey, Thanks for your concern. I opened up the Iota transfer switch when I heard of the fire hazard a couple of weeks ago. Everything is pristine inside. There is no signs of overheating and all of the lugs were secure. Since it has been operational for 15 years now, I thought a few more weeks wouldn't be of concern. Also, the DW gave me that look of "are your really going to redo your entire electrical system right before we go on a two week trip?". In other words, don't mess up this trip... Update, we are on that trip now and staying at River Valley CG in Cherokee. Beautiful park right on the whitewater river. I ran into the same situation where my EMS was reporting high voltage on L2. I was seeing 130 volts on L2 on the EMS. Checking the pole, it was only 126 V. I adjusted the potentiometer in the EMS to match my meter and all has been good since.

Once again, thanks for all of the good knowledge shared. My 2007 Diplomat does have the Intellitech EMS so I will file that info in my noggin' to look for the 50 amp light after hooking up.

Hey Guys, once again thanks for the great info. Until this post, I haven't' ever heard about Fake 50 amp service. If my thinking is right, can I assume that if it is fake 50 amp service then the meter on my EMS should show that L1 and L2 have the same voltage? or maybe off by 1 volt due to the meter calibration? Or, is the only way to detect this by checking for 240V across both legs with a voltmeter? I don't believe the EMS is checking for this by looking at their error codes.

Yes, I calibrated my EMS on a trip to Florida this summer. After I calibrated it, I was able to eek out around 105-110 volts and was able to run both ACs all week. Otherwise the vacation would have been over as there were friends in 8 other rigs camping there and no vacancies. Yes, I bought the Hughes Autoformer after that. My next project is to see if I can get the Hughes permanently installed into my electrical bay by replacing the Iota auto-transfer switch and jockeying all three pieces of equipment around. However, my dear wife says I can't do that project until our two week trip that starts next week is over...that's forward thinking!

We spent last week at an Army Corps of Engineers campground and after plugging in to the 50 amp pedestal, my Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW50 registered 135 volts on leg 2 causing the unit to keep cutting off power to the RV. Leg 1 was showing 123 volts. The campground was run by only 2 people as the Corps has not been taking new reservations for some time since they can't get any one to work... So no maintenance man to call on. Luckily we had unseasonable cool weather and I was able to use the 30 amp connection and only run one AC. So here's the question... is there any way to regulate the voltage down to 120 volts when it is higher? Is this a common occurrence? I can't find anything posted about it. I know that the Hughes Autoformer will step up the voltage but apparently from their documentation does not put a max on voltage. Thanks again for all the great info, we are in this battle together (keeping the Monacos running).

I have had two different issues which both pointed to a bad air dump solenoid. The first issue was "Sometimes" an air bag would deflate if the coach was parked with the air bags inflated. The second issue was that "Sometimes" a single air bag wouldn't deflate when I got to a campsite. Therefore I had to fill the bags. Besides the entry step being high, this meant that if anyone was walking around inside the RV, it was felt by all... The research I did didn't give me any part numbers so I just went to Amazon to see what I could find. I did find an air solenoid with 1/2" fittings. I decided to go with it as I wanted the air dump to be quicker. In hindsight, finding one with 3/8" fittings would probably work just as fast as the airline is the bottleneck. The next issue I had was how to mount it since it didn't include anything to do so. Therefore, I found some scrap aluminum angle and with a drill and a file I fabricated a mount. I used cable ties to tie the two pieces together. I had to add a reducer bushing and an air muffler...I also got these off of Amazon. I also used a 3/8" reducer that is not shown. Below are the pics from the two units installed in the rear and a closeup. I mounted them offset so that I would always know that the top one is for roadside (left). Access was easy through the dash AC coil door on the side of my coach. I have always lived by the motto "Function over Form". Like so many things I contrive...it ain't necessarily pretty, but it is secure and dumps most of the air out in 10 seconds. A full bleed is done in about 20 seconds. However...it is louder, but generally we try to arrive mid afternoon and never hit the dump valve while people are sleeping nearby. While doing the testing, I unhooked the quick connect for the dash AC coil fan since it was spinning right in my ear while working. As always, I stuck a sticky note on the windshield to remind me to hook it back up later. One other thought... We stayed on a state park campground site once that was very steep from front to back... the rear wheels were about 24" lower elevation than the front wheels. By unhooking the power to the rear dump valves and then pushing the Air Dump switch, I was able to drop the front of the coach and leave the back air bags inflated. That way I was able to get my coach semi-level where it would have been impossible otherwise. Links to parts: Solenoid: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0Q4QYI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Air Mufflers: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TSKNDTR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1 I have been a motor coach owner for less than two years and want to thank all of those posting on this site for the great info. I have accomplished many of your projects and at this rate, I will be working on many more for the rest of my days...

The fuel filter was changed about 20 hours ago. I will check that when I get ready to open it up.

On a recent trip to Florida the generator did a code 36 shutdown several times. It was possibly a vapor lock from my subsequent research. It appears to be related to the fuel pump. It is probably original from 2007 so I decided that I would replace it. I spent several hours the other day trying to find the correct fuel pump for my generator. Many people suggested the Airtex E11020 but I couldn't find one of them available... I also searched for these Onan part numbers, 149-2790 and A047N931 and was able to locate one through a liquidator on Ebay. The picture on the Ebay ad showed the correct (but old) part number as 149-2790. However, upon receiving it today, the one I received did not have that part number on it...instead it had some foil labels applied over the original label so I couldn't read it. It does say "12VDC 3-6 PSI" on the label. In all of my research including on Cummins Quickserve, I can't find the specifications on the PSI for the OEM fuel pump. Does anyone know that? Also, has anyone added an inline fuel pump located near the fuel tank? I have read that some did that to reduce vapor locks. Thanks in advance for the input!

Throgmartin gave some great info on slide topper replacement... I will definitely go with his recommendation for the poured vinyl topper fabric when the time comes. Here's the question...my acrylic slide toppers are probably at their half life, there are no tears but there is considerable stretch on two of them where the AC units drain off of the roof. Is there any product that I can apply to the fabric that will "beef it up" and possible extend its remaining life? I am thinking there might be a clear coat "poly" like product that could be applied. Any ideas? I do see that 303 makes a marine waterproofing spray that should help but that won't strengthen the existing fabric. Also, what is the best way to clean them. Thanks much for all the great info. All of this good stuff makes the maintenance of my 15 year old Diplomat almost fun... Gary

Throgmartin gave some great info on slide topper replacement... I will definitely go with his recommendation for the poured vinyl topper fabric when the time comes. Here's the question...my acrylic slide toppers are probably at their half life, there are no tears but there is considerable stretch on two of them where the AC units drain off of the roof. Is there any product that I can apply to the fabric that will "beef it up" and possible extend its remaining life? I am thinking there might be a clear coat "poly" like product that could be applied. Any ideas? I do see that 303 makes a marine waterproofing spray that should help but that won't strengthen the existing fabric. Also, what is the best way to clean them. Thanks much for all the great info. All of this good stuff makes the maintenance of my 15 year old Diplomat almost fun... Gary

Wow...Thanks Roy. All I had was the main chassis diagram, I didn't know the others existed. I am sure these will come in handy for sure.

Thanks for the info guys! I have them on order. I really appreciate this website and all of the great info. When I bought the coach last October, I had systems overload. I am not sure how many different systems are onboard but the thought of maintaining them all (while still working) was a bit stressful. With a mechanic friend helping, and all of the great input from you guys. I think this thing is really gonna work and create some great memories!

I am having trouble locating my serial number on my engine due to its location. Supposedly, I need that to find the part# for the serpentine belt. Does anyone know that part number and the best place to purchase it? Also, some threads have suggested to replace the tensioner, anyone have a part # for that? Any other info would be appreciated.