JDCrow

Thanks everyone. Not sure anyone will have to tear into their pump, but I hope if you do you can at least see what’s in there. 
 

Update:

spent the night, ordered the part yesterday with no arrival date provided or known.

wrecker arrived at noon, by the time he got to our house, we kenworth called and said part was in. 
 

Quick degrease and wash, swapped the snubbers. 
 

From what I can wrap my head around after reading install from Cummins, the Mech over tightened the snubber. It’s 10lbs then 80 degrees then 5 degrees. That was new one for me, I’m sure someone can explain it better.

Back in the road in the morning. She purrs. I did notice when I picked it up from him it had a lope to it. I figured from sitting but no know sucking air 

The saga on my Capa pump continues. 
Some may know I tracked down a leak on the back Of the pump. I was able to get just the distributor, and saved a whole pump. 
 

Unfortunately, the mechanic was inept and ended up with a $4000 bill to fix. I told him exact what todo. He tried several different ways to access the pump, and ended up doing it the way I told him. 

He had the coach 4 Months, which caused us to miss a trip and had to take our truck instead, but which resulted in our accident.

Now back on the road, nervous, with a new toad, and lo and behold, the snubber assembly on the accumulator is puking fuel everywhere. Here in a rest area 70 miles from home. I have tools and got the snubber out, looks like he forgot to put in the seal disc if I’m looking at it right. 
 

Cummins has 1 in their whole system, on order. Coachnet is rounding up a tow home. 

Not insulated in my 03 Dip

Picture 

Good eve, sorry just all over the place. No I haven’t gotten to yet. Life got in the way. 
 

The fuel pump developed a leak. Fought that, then took it in and the mech took forever. Dealing with auto accident from last trip. Just had knee surgery but hoping to hit the road in April. It hasn’t been a huge deal for us as we haven’t been much in the heat.

I don’t see it being a huge issue. Just start with the first bolts you come to and keep digging in. 
 

Pics and labeled zip locks to help put it together. My pump is froze. Going to have to get the gas out of system before I tear into it.

post your progress 

You can replace just the guts of the fridge with JC products, but still will have the same seals on doors if yours are getting old. We have the 2 way kit in ours from them. 
 

Look up SEM products 

After the last Jeep was totaled, picked up a Jeep Gladiator. 
 

This a Mojave edition. I decided to go with roadmast this go around. They make a Mojave specific mount for it. It bolts up to existing holes, just one to drill. 
 

It does require cutting the skid plate to fit over the mounted plates. However I have a Jeep rubicon steel front bumper to add. Because it’s skid plate mounts to the bumper and the Mojave’s does not, I had to cut it to fit over the mounting plates as well. I also need to recut the Mojave skid plate to fit around the Rubicon bumper. Anyway got the winch in as well. 
 

I’ll be modifying a Mopar wiring harness from a Jeep JL Wrangler to fit this truck. 

Sidewall is hung gel coat, 1/8” think or so. There is no foam behind it, it’s open to the interior board with fiberglass insulation. It’s hung (glued) to the steel studs in the wall. 
 

I would think some anchors pushed in would be fine. They rivet the top to the fiberglass in the moulding. 

I have both the 12V and 18v Milwaukee and will never go back to air. I use them on my excavator and skid steer that get packed with dirt and they power right through everytine 

Did you check under your drivers seat? 
 

I was able to get paint codes from Rev along with decal placements 

Yeah not sure on just the red, I did have reverse tails in mine. Your original pics showed the lights with the reverse lens so that’s where I went. I should have read further, .but being a dude, I’m visual and like pictures😜

I’m not up on your throttle thing, but these are plug and play into original sockets, (the expensive lights that is) so if you have signal at the socket, they will function. 
 

Good luck on your quest. 

15 minutes ago, tomevansfl said:

Like Warren mine are cracking in the same area on my 2001. Mine look like JDCrow’s except the upper lense is amber. I’d like to replace the lower red set and is turn signal. Any idea what would be an appropriate replacement?

I don’t believe you’ll find the amber. Both these are Chevy taillights. I had to mod the fiberglass to get them in.

I tried the clear fancy, the broke. Tried the cheaper LED, they quit working. Now on the expensive LED and they are holding up.

Been down this road, search for my posts. I’ve tried all the ones you’ve mentioned and had to bite the bullet and get expensive ones 

Manual is right 

46 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

I have four Lossigy 200ah batteries and you can now get them for $500 each. Two years full time now and I love them. I have two other friends that full time with them also.

I know they have come WAY down, I have a 200ah and thinking about moving to another unit. The prices are falling fast. 
 

You get 560ah (2 batteries) for $999

This battery is getting a lot of play on YouTube. James AZ expert and Eric at Nomadic Fanatic (he put 2 in) 

Anyone here take a chance on one yet? 
 

Started to mess around with covering over the plumbing in the bedroom. Here’s a mock up

Well shoot the pics upload black 

1 hour ago, Cubflyer said:

I’ve started this project at the front stairs area and used Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive, it’s clear and comes in a caulking tube container.  Seems to be holding on the vertical surfaces, wondering how much and where to use glue on the horizontal surfaces?  Just around the edge? On every piece? Or just on the edges of the pieces so the whole thing just ‘floats’.  Advice?

Going to glue every piece in the hump. I’m a 3M junkie so going with their semi permanent/flexible adhesive-sealant and see how it goes. The main floor is floating 

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Yes, it is the standard stair tread trim.  Cuts pretty clean, I used a cut off saw and didn't have any chipping.  Still tedious to fit with a nice clean joint so I'd cut it long and slowly shave a little off until I was satisfied.  I used liquid nail to glue it down, gave me some time to get the alignment right.  Once it starts setting up it there for the long haul, so far no problem.

The stairs was a challenge to get the trim to look good. 

I bought the LVP at Lowes, it was the best Pergo that they carried in stock but unfortunately did not carry the trim so had to special order.  Pricey but no other good option unless I went with the metal.  

I did remove the carpeting of the bed box and put LVP on it, I used quite a bit of liquid nail on it and used clamps to hold it place until it somewhat cured.  Glad I completely removed the bed box and did it as I found the rollers had chewed into the bottom, fixed by adding metal strips.  Also added extra support under the storage area, there was only one support in the middle, when I had to work on the slide motor I had to be careful not to break the thin plywood on the bottom.  Doing the bed box made the final project turn out much better.

Bro that is a work of art! I haven’t thought about the bed box yet, but you have inspired me to add it to the list. 

19 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Nice,

When I did my flooring int the bedroom I was hesitant about doing the engine "hump".  Mine is a square corner so easier to deal with.  I did use the trim, turned out pretty good, it sticks out a little but not that much.  Been in place +2 years now.  I put the floor portion down first and then the step up portion down which eliminated the need for trim at the lower corner. 

Looks great! Is that the stair nose on the top? I have that coming in. It’s vinyl so will be easier to cut and work with. What adhesive did you use? 

I’ve had the floor down for a year now and just haven’t been able to get over the “hump” of the engine cover. 
 

I’ve seen a few here with some trim on the edges, and it kinda stuck out a bit. Buddy said let him try something, and it worked insanely well. 
 

He heated and formed the plank for perfect corners. 
 

Here’s the progress 

He did a test 90 angle 

1 minute ago, Grey Goose said:

Disappointing that the two Victron chargers do not play nice with each other. I will say that I am very disappointed with the bluetooth range on the Victron DC to DC charger that I have. I have several battery powered bluetooth temp monitors that have much better range.

Well I’m not sure how you charge a battery from two different sources at once. I mean, I never stick 2 chargers in a battery. 
 

I don’t have two bad a range in the charger, but will be upgrading to the touch screen inside this spring. 

10 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

That is interesting, I remember when you posted about that previously.  With my rig, I have not seen that issue, but I am using the older Heart Interface 2000 converter with a Renogy 60A DC-DC charger.  One time I checked my BMS app and I was charging the battery at a full 160A using both the converter and DC-DC charger.  I would have assumed that the converter might cut out when it detected the higher voltage on the line put out by the DC-DC, and indeed, it probably does eventually. So this issue might be specific to a particular setup.  In any case, easy enough to manage by turning off the converter charger when underway if necessary (or the DC-DC if your has a way to do that easily).

 

Yeah I probably is isolated to the Victron Multiplus and DC-DC. I wish I knew more about or at least could understand electronics. My grandfather was an incredible guy who built his own Ham radios out of tubes, none of those genes seemed to get passed on to me