Bob125

I’m not visualizing so this solution may not work. If the situation is right, I use a Dremel rotary tool with a metal cutting disk and cut a slot in the leftover screw. Them I use a straight screwdriver to unscrew.

I have some Kongsberg switch modules new from Rev. I sent Bar SR Ranch a message. Thx, Bob…

Yes, the batteries are rechargeable. I’m interested to see how long the 1600mAh battery lasts. So far, it’s working good and I have a dry roof. Thx, Bob…

Thanks for all the ideas and input. After confirming I do not have a clogged line, I’m pretty sure the line has a loop or droop. I put together a small sump to collect the AC condensation water with a small auto sump pump and installed in ceiling cavity. DC powered on a 7.4v li-po battery (I use these in radio control airplanes), the pump is coming on every 2 hours and takes about 7 seconds to drain the container. The pump comes on at 2.5” and off at 1/2”. Water tight sealed so in case the pump does not work the water will back up and drain onto the roof. Works great, has good pressure but not too forceful. Thx, Bob….

Need some help. I’m at the end of trying all I know to do. I’ve confirmed the AC condensate drains are working and running into the hose to the ground (the one embedded in the roof and side wall eventually exiting on the roadside front). I’ve vacuumed and confirmed the hose from roof to ground is clear. I have also run water from the ground via the hose up to the ceiling end. All clear. After running the AC a few hours with lots of condensate water in the hoses (and on the rooftop cause it’s not draining), the water does not travel from the AC down the hose, all gets backed up in the roof cavity where the connections are made. I disconnect the AC drain hose in the ceiling and water comes out of the [roof to ground hose] like there is back pressure, bout the pressure of a water fountain. For some reason the gravity head pressure of the AC drain height is not enough to push down through the [roof to ground] hose. At this point I’m thinking the [roof to ground] hose must have a hump in it where the condensate water must go uphill. If that’s the case, I guess I have to just live with it as the [roof to ground] hose is embedded well into the roof and sidewalks. Anybody have any other thoughts? Possibly some type of vacuum is being created? Thanks in advance for any ideas, Bob…

I'm right there with you. I ordered one as a test and it worked. But, I do have the housing left over. Best of luck sourcing. If I come across a new source, I'll post it. Thx, bob...

I bought these 3" light and cover and fit our 2009 Beaver: https://www.amazon.com/ITC-81230-NS-Round-Halogen-Light/dp/B00OA9SFVI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2W2E0I8BH52KN&keywords=ITC+81230-NS+RV%2FAuto+Round+Halogen+Light&qid=1661463116&s=automotive&sprefix=itc+81230-ns+rv%2Fauto+round+halogen+light+%2Cautomotive%2C128&sr=1-2 I also looked up the Winnebago number and it states 3". Not 3 1/8 but trying to help. This may be the lens you are looking for.

Thanks everyone for the info. I decided to go with a 3rd M&G brake system. The past two M&G systems have been very reliable. I really like the RVi3 and feel it’s a good system. I wish they had an option for brake notification other than the command center. I already have a lot of devices hanging around the dash and didn’t want another 7” screen to deal with. I called RVi3 and asked if there was a simple brake activation light or an electrical tap I could connect to and they said no, that the RVi3 must be used with their 7” command center. I like a brake activation light as it gives me conform to know the toad brakes are working and/or if a breakaway happens. By the way all this is to setup towing for a new to us 2020 Jeep Wrangler. Thx, Bob…

How does the RVi3 brake system activate the turn signals? I understand the brake light activation, but not how it activate the turn signals. Thx,Bob…

Great looking coach. This site is a great resource. Welcome. Bob...

Thanks for the info and recommendations. I just ordered 2 sheets. Thanks again, Bob...

I’m looking to replace some black plastic trim sheets (pics attached) around the interior and exterior of the coach. This black plastic material is used in the AV cabinet to trim and hide equipment as well as in the exterior door panels. Does anyone know the industry common name for this material and where to source it? thx, Bob…

Thanks for all the ideas. I just switched from foam to residential filters. So, I will switch them back. I did not realize they had more resistance. Previously, I have inspected all the ducts and vents for leaks into the roof area and bad seals. I've corrected anything that looked like a leak. I've also have modified the supply area to help the air transition into the ducts smoother and made sure there is no return/supply air mixing (see pictures). That helped increase air flow some out of the vents. The coach cools great while parked and I have no concerns while parked. But, while driving on a 95 degree day, it's approx. 83-85 inside with genset and all 3 AC's running on High fan and set on 60 degrees. I have remote temperature probes and have measured the return and supply temp differences while driving and they all keep around a 20 degree differential. I'm not expecting 60 degrees, but feel it should be able to keep 75 degrees. It seems the heat load while driving overwhelms the cooling capacity. I've checked for leaks and found none. I thought possibly some type of exterior airflow around the condensers was impacting it's effectiveness but they hold a 20 degree supply/return differential. I have added more insulation to the front cap and planning on adding more to the genset area, backs of cabinets, engine compartment, possibly the bottom pans, etc. The ceiling pad does have the underfoam that compresses. I'll insulate as much as I can next before covering up the 4 current vents and cutting new round vents that will direct the airflow out to the living area. Thanks for the help, I will definitely change back to foam filters. Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated. These are 15,000 BTU Dometics, original in 2009. This hot while driving issues has been this way since we bought the coach new in 2009.

While driving (and the slides are in), the slides cover the A/C outlets thus diverting the cool air to the top of the slides. I think the AC would be more efficient by directing the air into the living space. Our coach (2009 Beaver Marquis) has a hard time keeping cool while driving even with the genset and all 3 ACs running. I am thinking about covering the 4 AC outlets and drilling new 4" holes and install 4 round vents that will direct air down thru the cover into the living area. The material on the cover has a foam backing. My question is how will this material respond when I drill a hole into it? When I install the 4" round vents will the cover compress back like the other original cover looks? I'll be very careful with the initial cut and use a very sharp knife. Then I'll use a 4" hole saw. I'm hoping the vent cover when screwed on will compress the cover material back down like the other detail. Trying to keep it as professional and factory looking as possible. Thanks in advance for any insight. Bob... Pics attached are: Front AC Ceiling Cover Ceiling Cover blocked by Slide when in Ceiling Cover material detail Back of ceiling cover Potential new vent locations Pic of vent

I’m following this topic as well. My 09’ Beaver Marquis has 3 tubes, 2 toward the front and 1 toward the rear for each of the AC’s. I blew them out last week and confirmed they are clear from the roof top drain cup to the bottom of the tube outlets. My rear drains water but my front 2 are sporadic. I think it all depends if I have the coach just at the right level angle. I would like to improve to have a definite consistent drain all the time. I can’t confirm but I feel the drain tubes may have a level section and not a good downhill gradient all the way down to the low point. There is definitely a level section up in the AC return cavity where each drain cup joins to one tube. Anyone have suggestion how to improve positive drain? thx, Bob….