Jump to content

Bob125

Members
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bob125

  1. Yes, the batteries are rechargeable. I’m interested to see how long the 1600mAh battery lasts. So far, it’s working good and I have a dry roof. Thx, Bob…
  2. Thanks for all the ideas and input. After confirming I do not have a clogged line, I’m pretty sure the line has a loop or droop. I put together a small sump to collect the AC condensation water with a small auto sump pump and installed in ceiling cavity. DC powered on a 7.4v li-po battery (I use these in radio control airplanes), the pump is coming on every 2 hours and takes about 7 seconds to drain the container. The pump comes on at 2.5” and off at 1/2”. Water tight sealed so in case the pump does not work the water will back up and drain onto the roof. Works great, has good pressure but not too forceful. Thx, Bob….
  3. Need some help. I’m at the end of trying all I know to do. I’ve confirmed the AC condensate drains are working and running into the hose to the ground (the one embedded in the roof and side wall eventually exiting on the roadside front). I’ve vacuumed and confirmed the hose from roof to ground is clear. I have also run water from the ground via the hose up to the ceiling end. All clear. After running the AC a few hours with lots of condensate water in the hoses (and on the rooftop cause it’s not draining), the water does not travel from the AC down the hose, all gets backed up in the roof cavity where the connections are made. I disconnect the AC drain hose in the ceiling and water comes out of the [roof to ground hose] like there is back pressure, bout the pressure of a water fountain. For some reason the gravity head pressure of the AC drain height is not enough to push down through the [roof to ground] hose. At this point I’m thinking the [roof to ground] hose must have a hump in it where the condensate water must go uphill. If that’s the case, I guess I have to just live with it as the [roof to ground] hose is embedded well into the roof and sidewalks. Anybody have any other thoughts? Possibly some type of vacuum is being created? Thanks in advance for any ideas, Bob…
  4. I'm right there with you. I ordered one as a test and it worked. But, I do have the housing left over. Best of luck sourcing. If I come across a new source, I'll post it. Thx, bob...
  5. I bought these 3" light and cover and fit our 2009 Beaver: https://www.amazon.com/ITC-81230-NS-Round-Halogen-Light/dp/B00OA9SFVI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2W2E0I8BH52KN&keywords=ITC+81230-NS+RV%2FAuto+Round+Halogen+Light&qid=1661463116&s=automotive&sprefix=itc+81230-ns+rv%2Fauto+round+halogen+light+%2Cautomotive%2C128&sr=1-2 I also looked up the Winnebago number and it states 3". Not 3 1/8 but trying to help. This may be the lens you are looking for.
  6. Thanks everyone for the info. I decided to go with a 3rd M&G brake system. The past two M&G systems have been very reliable. I really like the RVi3 and feel it’s a good system. I wish they had an option for brake notification other than the command center. I already have a lot of devices hanging around the dash and didn’t want another 7” screen to deal with. I called RVi3 and asked if there was a simple brake activation light or an electrical tap I could connect to and they said no, that the RVi3 must be used with their 7” command center. I like a brake activation light as it gives me conform to know the toad brakes are working and/or if a breakaway happens. By the way all this is to setup towing for a new to us 2020 Jeep Wrangler. Thx, Bob…
  7. How does the RVi3 brake system activate the turn signals? I understand the brake light activation, but not how it activate the turn signals. Thx,Bob…
  8. Great looking coach. This site is a great resource. Welcome. Bob...
  9. Thanks for the info and recommendations. I just ordered 2 sheets. Thanks again, Bob...
  10. I’m looking to replace some black plastic trim sheets (pics attached) around the interior and exterior of the coach. This black plastic material is used in the AV cabinet to trim and hide equipment as well as in the exterior door panels. Does anyone know the industry common name for this material and where to source it? thx, Bob…
  11. Thanks for all the ideas. I just switched from foam to residential filters. So, I will switch them back. I did not realize they had more resistance. Previously, I have inspected all the ducts and vents for leaks into the roof area and bad seals. I've corrected anything that looked like a leak. I've also have modified the supply area to help the air transition into the ducts smoother and made sure there is no return/supply air mixing (see pictures). That helped increase air flow some out of the vents. The coach cools great while parked and I have no concerns while parked. But, while driving on a 95 degree day, it's approx. 83-85 inside with genset and all 3 AC's running on High fan and set on 60 degrees. I have remote temperature probes and have measured the return and supply temp differences while driving and they all keep around a 20 degree differential. I'm not expecting 60 degrees, but feel it should be able to keep 75 degrees. It seems the heat load while driving overwhelms the cooling capacity. I've checked for leaks and found none. I thought possibly some type of exterior airflow around the condensers was impacting it's effectiveness but they hold a 20 degree supply/return differential. I have added more insulation to the front cap and planning on adding more to the genset area, backs of cabinets, engine compartment, possibly the bottom pans, etc. The ceiling pad does have the underfoam that compresses. I'll insulate as much as I can next before covering up the 4 current vents and cutting new round vents that will direct the airflow out to the living area. Thanks for the help, I will definitely change back to foam filters. Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated. These are 15,000 BTU Dometics, original in 2009. This hot while driving issues has been this way since we bought the coach new in 2009.
  12. While driving (and the slides are in), the slides cover the A/C outlets thus diverting the cool air to the top of the slides. I think the AC would be more efficient by directing the air into the living space. Our coach (2009 Beaver Marquis) has a hard time keeping cool while driving even with the genset and all 3 ACs running. I am thinking about covering the 4 AC outlets and drilling new 4" holes and install 4 round vents that will direct air down thru the cover into the living area. The material on the cover has a foam backing. My question is how will this material respond when I drill a hole into it? When I install the 4" round vents will the cover compress back like the other original cover looks? I'll be very careful with the initial cut and use a very sharp knife. Then I'll use a 4" hole saw. I'm hoping the vent cover when screwed on will compress the cover material back down like the other detail. Trying to keep it as professional and factory looking as possible. Thanks in advance for any insight. Bob... Pics attached are: Front AC Ceiling Cover Ceiling Cover blocked by Slide when in Ceiling Cover material detail Back of ceiling cover Potential new vent locations Pic of vent
  13. I’m following this topic as well. My 09’ Beaver Marquis has 3 tubes, 2 toward the front and 1 toward the rear for each of the AC’s. I blew them out last week and confirmed they are clear from the roof top drain cup to the bottom of the tube outlets. My rear drains water but my front 2 are sporadic. I think it all depends if I have the coach just at the right level angle. I would like to improve to have a definite consistent drain all the time. I can’t confirm but I feel the drain tubes may have a level section and not a good downhill gradient all the way down to the low point. There is definitely a level section up in the AC return cavity where each drain cup joins to one tube. Anyone have suggestion how to improve positive drain? thx, Bob….
  14. I've confirmed all 3 A/C's cool at least 20 deg differential. I even have checked the differential going down the road thinking maybe they get weaker with airflow, but they were good. On this 2009 Marquis floor plan, while driving and slides in, the slides cover up 4 of the 10 AC outlets in the kitchen/driving area and the air just blows on top of the slides. I guess it still circulates but I don't think this is good. And all the bedroom outlets are this way. I'm thinking about cutting holes and ducting area directly through the AC interior covers to get AC air flowing better. I've confirmed I have no return air getting cycled back or mixed in with the supply side. I've smoothed out the flow in the ducts and that helped get some more airflow. I've checked the best I can for outside air filtration into the coach while driving and cannot find any. Maybe there is some type of pressurization and/or vacuum that is cutting into the AC effectiveness. We do have a gold and black exterior that adds heat load. I wonder about the flooring as well. Could be lot's of heat gain from the hot road in the summer. So, what I am doing now is adding more insulation in the front cap, front dash area, as much of the interior sides I can get too and the whole engine compartment. I do not have Maxxair covers. I'll get some of those. How would leaving the vents cracked or open while driving help the AC's cool better? I figure that would potentially let cool AC air out? Thanks for any assistance. We have owned this coach new since 2009 and this is my one mod/fix I cannot figure out. Bob...
  15. Well, I feel really stupid. I've never checked and "assumed" since my driver electric up/down window was single pane that the rest of the coach was single pane. After the responses to this thread, I went and checked and we do in fact have double pane windows on all the side windows. None have fogged by the way. So, I can take this off the mod list. I'm still underway adding insulation to the cap, engine compartment, front dash and inside as many cabinets and side walls I can get too. I'm not happy with the really hot days. It's not while stationary as it stabilizes pretty cool. My issue is the coach does not hold temperature and heats up while rolling down the road. I run the genset with all 3 A/C's plus dash air and have confirmed they are cooling down, it's just the heat load takes over. I've looked for leaks as well. Thanks for all the responses. Problem solved on dual pane windows as I already have them. Thx, Bob...
  16. I am trying to increase the overall insulation of our 2009 Beaver Marquis. Currently all our side windows are single pane. Is it general consensus that dual pane windows do provide additional insulation and less heat load into the coach? Has anyone changed out single to double pane? Is it even possible or is the frame and side walls not conducive to a change out? I have read on some coaches the dual pane windows are problematic, losing seals, fogging, etc. Lot's of questions, trying to do research. Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciative. Bob...
  17. Well, problem is solved. Thank you Frank for your input. Just before certain parts of the CCM quit working, I had a Battery Disconnect relay go bad (some call this the salesman switch relay). This is the second relay to go bad, so based on my research, a lot of people bypass the relay and not use the battery disconnect switch. So, that's what I did. I did not connect that certain parts of the CCM quit working right after that. So, tonight I installed a new battery disconnect relay back in and the CCM is now all working. I can't believe this. How could connecting the battery directly and not going through the relay affect the CCM? The only thing I can figure are the two white signal wires attached to the battery disconnect relay. They are labeled solenoid open and solenoid closed. Possibly because these two signal wires were not connected, the system detected a break in signal and caused certain parts to quit working. Long story, but wanted to post in case future Monacoers that may have CCM trouble. Thx, Bob...
  18. I am in Tennessee and not able to take the coach to Rev in Oregon or Premium Coach Group in AZ. Does any know of any Kongsberg CCM expertise or shop East of the Mississippi? My current symptom is I have no Module Active lights on the back of every CCM switch group. I think there is 9 of them, mostly 3 button modules. Some functions work and some do not. I've checked all fuses and reset the system by removing power. I do have extra switch modules and replaced the first group on each daisy chain but that did not light up the module active lights. In addition to the CCM switch groups, I also do not have power to the backup monitor and the Kenwood in dash radio/gps/monitor. Thanks for any help, Bob...
  19. Thank you for the info. I’m in Tennessee, so pretty much on my own. I never get close to Az and Oregon as I still work full time. If anyone know of any Kongsberg knowledgeable facilities east of the Rockies please let me know. I’ve added the 60 amp and 40 amp breakers to the chassis and house power feeds to the front run box. Everything is working good most of the time. I have an intermittent left turn signal come on solid and the left daytime running light goes off. I’m working on that now but I think if I turn on the head lights it resets all to normal. I’m going to make aux power/wiring paths using these front run box power tabs for headlights and wipers next. That will give me a secondary way to power and switch on/off in case the CCM goes bad. if I lose the engine brake that is a whole different story. Thanks for all the help and knowledge. Bob 2009 Beaver Marquis, Cat C-15
  20. I have an '09 Beaver Marquis with a Cat C15. It did not come with a manual regen option. It also does not use DFT, last year before DFT. While I was a at a CAT dealer for an exhaust issue, I had them install a manual regen option (switch). Just wanted to pass this information along that this is possible for a manual regen to be added for a CAT. I would think it would be possible for a Cummins. Thx, Bob...
  21. I've attached some pages from my manual regarding slide-outs. This is for a 2009 Beaver Marquis. It lists Lippert manual operation, but not for sure this is the system you have. Wanted to help if your system is the same. Thx, Bob... 2008-Marquis-Owner-Manual Slide_Outs.pdf
  22. I'm on that now. I just received my 12V to 5V supply in from Amazon today. I think I have identified the wiring, got the power supply and wiring and making a file on this if/when I lose power to my smart wheel. All working good the last 11 years. Thanks again. I'm trying my best to be proactive and have alternate means to power headlights, wipers, turn signals if this Kongsberg CCM decides to quit working properly. Trying not to be stranded. Thanks for all your insight. Bob... '09 Beaver Marquis
  23. Hi Frank, thank you so much for the confirmation. Exactly what I needed. I enjoyed ready Tal's write-up. Lots of great info to further understand the system on my 09' Beaver Marquis. I'm trying my best to have provisions for work arounds if any of the multiplex CCM items fail. Thanks again, Bob...
  24. I came across this topic by Frank McElroy and downloaded the file and write-up by Tal G. If you search for a file called "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire 1.0.0" you will find it. In the write-up, Tal G. suggested to add two circuit breakers for the house and chassis battery power cables feeding the Front Run Box printed circuit board. I am going to do that to my 2009 Beaver Marquis as I feel I have the same system and potential for fire. I've attached a picture showing another power feed to the Chassis Control Module. Does anyone know if I need to add a circuit breaker to this as well? Thanks, Bob... 2009 Beaver Marquis
  25. Having the Kongsberg chassis multiplex on my 2009 Beaver Marquis, I want to make provisions to wire headlights and wipers. And, possibly turn signals. My idea is to make the harnesses, wire into power and install relays and switches in the dash or behind the dash (but leave protected and unconnected until I need them). Then if or when the Kongsberg chassis multiplex gives me trouble with headlights and/or wipers, I can disconnect the connectors and connect to my provisional wiring and switch. Can I tap into the power that is going to the front run box and possibly ground (or should I ground to the chassis or other ground block terminal)? I will use fuses and relays. These power cables coming in from the left appear to be plenty large enough, like #4 awg. Thanks for any advice. 2009 Beaver Marquis
×
×
  • Create New...